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I don't suppose I'll be the only one to offer this information, but Tekwiki states that the TM-515 does _not_ have a high-power bay, but if a PS-505 is put into a standard-power bay, it is limited to

Hi Guys, thanks to the trust of Elektor, one of the best known electronics editors, with my immense joy, a book of mine became reality... I mean: a real book, in real paper, not just a pdf file. I am

A TM-515 is certainly worth having. I forget whether it has a"high power" slot like the TM-504/6 mainframes, but in any case my first thought was that a PS-505-1 needs to be in a high power slot or

Hi Barry, It should be not too difficult to check whether or not the incoming signal at R4470 is affected by vertical position changes. I tried this (and saw no effect, of course) viewing and

Oh, man- if I was closer, I'd grab it in a heartbeat, but I'm in the bay area! -Dave

Yes, this TM515 portable TM500 series mainframe has to go. Now, it's not working properly, but you can have it free if you're willing to pick it up at my place in Laguna Hills, California, USA. I

Apparently P312 (+/- 17V connections from the regulator board to the rectifier board) wasn't making connection to the +17V side. I checked the voltage at the test point and it was virtually 0V but

Without the silver, the solder de-bonds from the ceramic. As Ed Breya pointed out, that doesn't necessarily mean that the electrical connection between components will fail -- they can still remain

What does it look like when they're ruined that way? I don't think I've ever seen that damage before. I'm guilty of adding just a bit of regular solder to a terminal or two many years ago for a

Standard Tek Svc Ctr issue in the mid 70's was a 60 W Hexacon fpr strips and a tiny Antex for PC work. -ls-

I have definitely ruined a few ceramic terminals due to silver depletion. It only took four or five heatings with standard solder. I was using the same model Weller WTCP that Tek issued me when I

Somewhere in the Pacific Northwest some ham has a bushel basket or two full of these strips and their holders and a few rolls of the Sn62 Pb36 Ag2 Tek solder. I bought a 1lb roll of it in 1980 from

There’s an excellent video on YouTube that is an old instructional video from the 1960’s made by Tektronix: https://youtu.be/RpB5JqGo1co?si=Zf2jtZ4jgTtV36ZI That being said, I personally use

hey randy, A cheap soldering iron (<40w) and a slightly dirty tip will take an eternity to do anything constructive on the old ceramic strips. I use an 80w with temp control, and a clean chisel tip

hey maurizio, glad to see your still fighting the good fight! Anybody have a spare Option 13 board they wouldnt mind parting with? Hell, id even be will to put a deposit down to borrow one for a week

Depending on what you're working on, IMHO, the squig technique is viable. (Cut the leads as close to the component body, bend the lead so they're pointing out, make a squig on the new component

I've substituted the readout board from my other 7704A which doesn't exhibit the problem and it didn't help. I then substituted the vertical amplifier from the other 7704A and that appeared to work

You definitely want to use a silver bearing solder (about 2-3%), if you want to preserve the contacts. In an emergency repair, you can use use regular solder, but it will degrade it almost

Hi Barry, Yes, a 2N4303 is indeed the generic part number for that FET. If you have trouble tracking down the original through-hole part, hunt for the surface-mount version (e.g., SMP4303). If you

Gordon, When I repaired a couple of Tek 500-series ‘scopes, I used a Weller 60-watt iron. It’s the type that plugs directly into the 120VAC line - no power supply for regulating