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Hi all, I'm looking for a tool that will let me strip flat cable ("idc" cable) well and repeatedly. I imagine something with a lever like a drill press, but it presses a knife blade into the flat

Greetings, I've decided to sell this scope. I acquired it a number of years ago. The backup battery died, which I replaced. I was unable to save the calibration data. I never did go through the

Hi G?ran, I've confirmed the voltages around those transistors are good but I might check Q32139's hFE. The base of Q32130A is quiet until the oscillations start. I'm pretty sure nothing is

Nik, If you're thinking in terms of time investment, it probably isn't worth it. It's a 40 year old scope with limited capabilities and a massive bench footprint. Once restored, you'll have a hard

Hi, I do own a working 464. The only trouble it gave me in 40 years was a couple of plug in tunnel diodes! I would look for a newer scope because, once you repair a 40 year old beast, something else

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Thanks for this clarification Tom. Your answer to Adam's question helped me further look into my issue - I was dealing with a similiar issue with a CG5011 I am trying to evaluate/repair. It claims

Hi, have you replaced Q32139, could be low hfe? does Q32143 get hot? Q32130A base shall be quiet? CR32125 anode shall be quiet? what happens if you poke around with a wet finger? Carry on G?ran

Hi Nik, It will be worth *somebody’s* time to repair and calibrate it. Whether it’s worth *your* time depends what you want out of it. If you just want a working scope to use on other projects,

I'll be the dissenting opinion here for the justices. The 464 not worth taking further action on. It's viable, sure, but plenty big and heavy, a monster to ship both ways. I had a working, mint 464

Hi Nik, I don't own a 464 so I will answer this question in a more general sense. You will probably have some people tell you a 464 is not worth repairing or calibrating because of how cheap

In my experience all pins can be sucked clean from tin except pin14 (Gnd). With the other pins I did the following: Remove as much solder as possible, (braid, tin-sucker, etc.) then use a small pair

Another Jim here putting his $0.02 worth in. If you run across step recovery diodes (SRDs), there is another time parameter you need to be aware of, minority carrier lifetime. Turns out that while

Prof. Lee, Aha! Thank you very much, I'm happy to learn that my expectations were wrong and the PG506 is working properly. I hoped it was something straightforward like that. thanks again, Adam

https://imgur.com/a/2s4tAlv <john@...> wrote:

The 284 is a 70ps instrument, so the 1ns reading you report is a measurement of your scope's rise time. When driving a 1ns rise time scope with a 1ns rise time pulse, you would expect to see a 1.4ns

Having replaced the bad tantalum caps and shorted transistor in my PG506, it's now working in all modes. I replaced all the tantalums on the fast rise board, since one was shorted. However, the rise

Nik, It is worth restoring and calibrating. This is like the others similar to it in that the condensers and some resistors should be replaced. Clean sockets and switches. I have a 466 which is

Hi Barry! Your technique so far is spot-on for troubleshooting, the good board in the troubled scope works. However, it might be useful to put the "bad" board in the good scope, if there are off-board