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Hi David - thanks for your reply. The knob is locked, set to auto, I set coupling to DC (it was on AC) and turned the volts/div knob up and down. All I get is a flicker and it goes back to that

I'm still very new at learning how to use a scope, but I'm getting mighty frustrated. I bought a used 464 and have been able to get it to display a straight line as well as its square wave from the

Barry, I used PETG. This material is fairly stable up to about 90C and I have extensive experience printing with it and obtaining good quality prints. I would recommend PETG, NYLON 6 or ABS, all

Looks great. What material did you use to print that part? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Here is an update on this project. I have now reassembled and installed the board with this 3D printed part. It works great. The 3D print and other files are available on Thingiverse. This is a

And yet, here you are posting again. Why don't you stop responding and reading, if it's irrelevant to you? I did, after all, use a 564 and a 7403 to make the measurements :) Some of us are actually

Thanks for your reply. I checked the MR pin and it is at 5VDC, so it must be pulled high. I checked all the other pins and noticed a couple things. The VMA output pin is at about 4VDC but has a

Mark yes Nichicon are high quality caps. My 7904 backplane had a 9 mF lytic, axial, not tant. I think the end seals failed. Indeed on a 50V bus, replaced with 100V axial. Very common failure

I was recently in a discussion about an HP scope that suddenly developed a ghost/reflection on the CRT that followed the beam image. The pictures of the effect showed exactly the same sort of thing

Steve I have available 2ea 366-1338-00, 1ea 366-1385-01 These are not in original Tektronix packaging but we’re originally purchased as NOS parts. If you are interested contact me offline with

I have a AMI S68A08P in my 2465 and it is not socketed. I'm pretty sure no one has worked on it prior to me owning it. One thing that can affect the "E" output (pin 37) is MR (memory ready, pin 3).

Jon, Thank you for replying to my question. For 2/, the ULD 47 mfd I use is a low ESR type to replace the 6,8-15mfd tantalums. So far the ULD types have worked well, if not better. The 5/ looks

I made this video for a PG506 knob, but I had previously made the mold to cast a volts/div knob for a 485, since the grey part and the aluminum insert are identical: https://youtu.be/6XDUy-KfMy4 --

Steve, If you could get a measurement of the diameter of the inner aluminum core of the VOLTS/DIV knob I can try making a casting from one of the knobs on my 485. If that goes even passably well I

Jeff- when we we did silicone molds for wafer handling we put the assembly in a vacuum chamber to remove all bubbles/voids during cure. might work with epoxy? seems to be about the same consistency,

The VOLTS/DIV knobs are part number 366-1338-00. They were also only used on the 485, so again, hard to find spares lying around (but maybe not impossibly, as twice as many VOLTS/DIV knobs were

Whoops, I misread your request as the TIME/DIV knob. The VOLTS/DIV knobs are another matter. -- Jeff Dutky

The knob is actually several parts: 366-1385-00 (or 366-1385-01+366-0293-01 for SN B090000-B142149) is the outer grey knob, and 354-0413-00 is the transparent skirt. So it makes a difference what the

"No, because a dimmer would work there either way round" I'm sorry... No, what? I wasn't actually suggesting using a light dimmer, just illustrating a soft start ;) Also it would take a hefty one due

My 485 works fine but knob plastic cracked. Anyone have a spare?