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Even if you can adjust the temperature, it's not much use. The danger of lifting pads increases exponentially with temperature and a hot setting can not really make up for a decent thermal path and

I can adjust temp on mine, what should it be at? Thanks Kevin Thanks Kevin

The thermal path (thermal conductivity) from the heater to the tip is just as important with desoldering tools as it is with soldering irons. Sadly even the expensive ones are sometimes woefully

Likely not. If it's a Hakko 808 (which I have) you don't control the temperature, it's preset. You likely don't have enough heat at the point of contact (I'm assuming something other than surface

I did the same thinking that the scope modules were compatible with the TM500 so I bought a lot of 6 plug ins cheap. Only a couple had compatible latch mechanisms, the other 4 were different. Best bet

Selecting the tip temperature is important (where this adjustment is available). Heating the joint all the way through is also critical. Don't be afraid to add solder so that no air gets sucked in.

I have a unit I like, has gun type with solder sucking pump through to the gun. However I seem to struggle when it comes to large planes of copper attached to the pad, am I doing something wrong or?

If the parts don't fall out by their own weight there's something wrong with your desoldering tool. That transformer I mentioned the other day, which I changed 50+ times, I did that with the (very

There are about 400 RS franchise stores nationwide. In the course of my travels for work I get by two of them, one with a modest stock of RS parts and one with a better stock. The RS franchise store

Brass has quite poor heat conductivity, less than a third that of copper, not sure if that would still work. I don't know how well it holds up, since I have never seen a soldering tip made of brass,

I've used my Radio Shack solder sucker (not the bulb but the spring-loaded cylinder version) with pretty good success but I have lifted a couple of pads along the way. I really, really need to get

Another of my not-quite-off-topic posts about the Soviet plugin scope series that was clearly inspired by the Tek 7k series. Having started investigating this stuff, I'm now playing a sort of plugin

For quite some time, large plastic parts often have had the plastic type identified with a stamp built into the molding dies. I don't know if this was common back then, but you can try looking around

I have used methylene chloride (dichloromethane) very successfully on 1502 cases. I've repaired both hairline cracks and 1" bits chipped/broken off without problems. Be careful, since it is an

I had one of the cases repaired by a person who uses plastic welding and it turned out bad. He wasn't sure what the material was. Looking inside the case I can see some type of dark glue that attached

Thanks to all who responded to my problem. Some didn't know that my email server is YAHOO, and mentioned only groups.io. When we do a round table discussion the original message gets lost. I no longer

There's a local Rat Shack, but apparently this (and most) are all franchise stores, carrying branded stuff, but not just that. Normally don't need to go there. Harvey

Hope this appropriate ... FYI I received this just moments ago ... Hobbyist? Maker? Do-It-Yourselfer? Announcing over 60 new RadioShack Express HobbyTown stores stocked with everything you need to

I only lifted a couple pads, out of thousands. The ones that did lift were on very low grade consumer products. I agree that there are better methods available today, but what else was available to

Radio Shack is NOT gone ... Just wanted to let all know: check listing in your area: also they have other companies selling their items much like Sears did. Joel