On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 14:47:33 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: I've used my Radio Shack solder sucker (not the bulb but the spring-loaded cylinder version) with pretty good success but I have lifted a couple of pads along the way. I really, really need to get something like the Hakko. I watched a video this morning where it was used to desolder a component board from another board that had around eight pins soldered with through-holes to the larger board. After the Hakko was finished (in less than a minute total time), the secondary board practically fell out. Impressive. Selecting the tip temperature is important (where this adjustment is available). Heating the joint all the way through is also critical. Don't be afraid to add solder so that no air gets sucked in. The ones with the built in pumps are most convenient, but I wonder if the ones that run off compressed air (bernouli principle) don't have a sharper vacuum pulse. The right tip diameter is also important. Cleaning out the tips and filters is pretty critical, no suction, no desoldering. Harvey
Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Burke" <burke.ray@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 9:10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire
The Radio Shack Desoldering bulb is useless?because you cant get the tips any
more, no more Radio Shack.? I have used the?Radio Shack Desoldering bulb,
(have one).? Solder Wick, Solder Suckers?and other tools, while they are
cheap, they do cause damage to the circuit boards with pulled pads, through
holes, and other problems, ( I have used them and damaged my boards).? Don't
use any of the cheap alternatives, if you want to save the circuit boards.
? Use at least a good?Desoldering gun or station.? Use at least a Hakko
FR-301 which I just bought, or a better Hakko Desoldering station, there are
others that are more expensive like Pace, Metcal, which I used at work.? I
?just?used it to repair my wifes monitor?that died?with no power, and opened
it up and found?about three bulging capacitors, replaced all eight on the
power supply, and fixed it.? After getting the caps at Fry's it only took
? me about 20 minutes to change all eight, love my new Desoldering gun, NO
PULLED PADS.? One other thing is manufacture support, Hakko is the best.? I
got a desoldering station from my work, which they didn't want any more and
Hakko had?the tips for the thing.? Now you could?get some cheap Chinese
knockoff but support may not be their in a few years, or at all.? ??Buy at
least a Hakko?and you?won't be disappointed.?The other main desoldering
companies are more expensive.? You could check out the tear apart videos of
the ?www.EEVBlog with Dave Jones.
On Thursday, July 26, 2018 11:36 PM, Michael A. Terrell
<mike.terrell@...> wrote:
I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain
of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local
parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through
our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which
was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by
Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an
hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin
Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good
solder, because there was very little waste.
We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around
1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production
line in one of the Orlando plants.
Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with,
even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had
to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder
balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early
ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were
tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality
hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow
profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few
months, as they continued to refine the profiles.
Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different
route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF
from a 1700 foot tower. :)
Michael A. Terrell
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Sent: Jul 26, 2018 11:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re:
[TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire
I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines.? I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop.? I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating.? I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to.? Which was a lot.? I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.
Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.
But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.
I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C.? That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.
Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry.? It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.
-Chuck Harris
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