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Re: Delta Standard for 130 L-C Meter has MINUS 3pF setting [1 Attachment]

 

They do not have 0 and -3pF. The fixture ( I would love to have the original, but made one myself as a substitude) has a starting capacity. I do not remember the values but for instance 3 pF on the meter is something like 13 pF, so 0pF is 10 and -3 is 7 pF . The fixture gives relative values about a " floating" zero. Because the trimknob on the front, the real zero or real value is not important, as long as the deviation is 3 its OK because you use the zero knob to get the right startpoint while measuring.

I used a what higher startvalue so I could zero out enough cable. But that gave problems using a fixture I made that screws direct on the meter with two croks. But adding a small variable capacitor on the fixture solved that problem.?

A very nice and accurate meter.

Fred PA4TIM

Op 3 mrt. 2013 om 04:51 heeft "Dennis Tillman" <dennis@...> het volgende geschreven:

?

How did Tek get the Delta Standard for the 130 L-C Meter to have a 0pF and a MINUS 3pF value?

Exactly what is a negative capacitance and what is it good for?

See attached photo.

?

Dennis


Re: Delta Standard for 130 L-C Meter has MINUS 3pF setting [1 Attachment]

 

On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 8:51 PM, Dennis Tillman <dennis@...> wrote:
How did Tek get the Delta Standard for the 130 L-C Meter to have a 0pF and
a MINUS 3pF value?
"Only the stray capacitance of the connector and switch
assembly is in the circuit in the -3uufd position. The
actual capacitance of these strays is approximately 10 to
20uufd. No effort is made to standardize this value. As
the switch is rotated, capacitors are switched into the circuit
to provide a change (or "Delta") of capacitance as indicated.
In the 0uufd position, an additional 3uufd has
been added in addition to the strays."


Re: Delta Standard for 130 L-C Meter has MINUS 3pF setting

 

The service manual is available online if you want to see how it
works.

"Only the stray capacitance of the connector and switch assembly is in
the circuit in the -3pF position. The actual capacitance of these
strays is approximately 10 to 20 pF. No effort is made to standardize
this value. As the switch is rotated, capacitors are switched into
the circuit to provide a change (or "Delta") of capacitance as
indicated. In the 0pF position, an additional 3 pF has been added in
addition to the strays."

On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 04:16:59 -0000, "Ed Breya" <edbreya@...>
wrote:

Since it appears to be a passive device, it is probably and inductance that's equivalent to -3 pF at the test frequency. The zero value is probably an L-C resonant (near the test frequency) circuit that can be adjusted to a null.

Ed

--- In TekScopes@..., "Dennis Tillman" <dennis@...> wrote:

How did Tek get the Delta Standard for the 130 L-C Meter to have a 0pF and a
MINUS 3pF value?

Exactly what is a negative capacitance and what is it good for?

See attached photo.

Dennis


Re: Delta Standard for 130 L-C Meter has MINUS 3pF setting

 

Pages 6-6 and 6-7 of the 130 manual describe the cal procedure using the S-30 + and - 3pf setting.



RP


Re: Delta Standard for 130 L-C Meter has MINUS 3pF setting

 

Since it appears to be a passive device, it is probably and inductance that's equivalent to -3 pF at the test frequency. The zero value is probably an L-C resonant (near the test frequency) circuit that can be adjusted to a null.

Ed

--- In TekScopes@..., "Dennis Tillman" <dennis@...> wrote:

How did Tek get the Delta Standard for the 130 L-C Meter to have a 0pF and a
MINUS 3pF value?

Exactly what is a negative capacitance and what is it good for?

See attached photo.



Dennis


Delta Standard for 130 L-C Meter has MINUS 3pF setting

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

How did Tek get the Delta Standard for the 130 L-C Meter to have a 0pF and a MINUS 3pF value?

Exactly what is a negative capacitance and what is it good for?

See attached photo.

?

Dennis


Re: Tektronix 2465 Ch2 dead

 

The outputs from the U140 and U150 shift registers control more than
the attenuator relays. The outputs can change after the relays are
activated by the strobe signal from U130G without affecting the
relays. (I am going by the 2465B schematic which I have a nice copy
of.)

If you have an analog or digital storage oscilloscope, you could
trigger it on the relay strobe signal while watching the different
outputs of U140 and U150 to see if they match.

I would check the coil resistance of each relay and make sure they are
all good but I suspect you will find that the problem is inside of the
attenuator assembly.

On Sat, 02 Mar 2013 20:42:28 -0000, "J_O" <pecska@...> wrote:

Hi Guys !
I need a little help to fix my scope.
Ch1 is working fine, diagnostics is OK.
No signal comes out Ch2 attenuators - testpoint 11
If I set the input attenuators to 1V/Div and compare U140 and U150 pinouts I see differences. Should they be the same for swiching the same relays?
On front panel all swiches indicate the same, I hear clicks at the same time if rotating V/Div knob.

Your help is much apreciated
Joe


Tektronix 2465 Ch2 dead

 

Hi Guys !
I need a little help to fix my scope.
Ch1 is working fine, diagnostics is OK.
No signal comes out Ch2 attenuators - testpoint 11
If I set the input attenuators to 1V/Div and compare U140 and U150 pinouts I see differences. Should they be the same for swiching the same relays?
On front panel all swiches indicate the same, I hear clicks at the same time if rotating V/Div knob.

Your help is much apreciated
Joe


Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

 

Cliff,
? It sounds like your trigger point is close to the baseline and triggering on noise.?
?
? Here is a round about way to set the trigger point, assuming that your 5V p-p signal will fill most of the screen:
Set Storage to Normal (Non-Storage)
Set Horiz sweep to "A"
Set Sweep to "Auto" mode
Set Time/Div to "1mS"
Set Trigger Coupling to "DC"
Setup Ch1 to show trace at mid screen with input "Gnd"
Rotate Pos control and watch A Swp Trig'd light flash at the sweep trigger point
Adjust the A Sweep Trigger "Level" control so the trigger point occurs about half way up your waveform
?
Now reset Ch1 to show your signal swinging below and above the mid line
Set Sweep to "Norm Trig"
Walk the Time/Div to longer sweeps so you can observe the leading edge of your signal
You may have to change Trigger Polarity (and readjust the trigger level)?to observe the portion of the signal of interest
Set the Time/Div as required
?
Denis K

From: Cliff White
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2013 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
?
I have it set to normal mode, I've tried both AC, DC, and HF reject couplings, and the channel itself is coupled DC. But it still seems to only want to trigger on the little bit of ripple on the wave, and not actually the signal itself.

On 03/02/2013 12:12 AM, David wrote:
You can absolutely trigger on low frequency signals including slow
ramps.  Be sure to set TRIG MODE (below the time/div control on the
right side) to NORM instead of AUTO to prevent the sweep from free
running when the triggers occur slower than about 20 Hz.

You may need to use DC input coupling and DC trigger coupling.

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:12:46 -0600, Cliff White
mailto:cn.white@... wrote:

I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a /very/ slow (less
than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to
make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make
it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just
can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?

-Cliff
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Why no fan?

Dave C
 

If you've wondered why some TE have no fan:

<>

Start watching around 19:55 time.

Dave


Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I have it set to normal mode, I've tried both AC, DC, and HF reject couplings, and the channel itself is coupled DC. But it still seems to only want to trigger on the little bit of ripple on the wave, and not actually the signal itself.

On 03/02/2013 12:12 AM, David wrote:

You can absolutely trigger on low frequency signals including slow
ramps.  Be sure to set TRIG MODE (below the time/div control on the
right side) to NORM instead of AUTO to prevent the sweep from free
running when the triggers occur slower than about 20 Hz.

You may need to use DC input coupling and DC trigger coupling.

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:12:46 -0600, Cliff White
 wrote:

I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a /very/ slow (less 
than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to 
make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make 
it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just 
can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?

-Cliff

------------------------------------

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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    

<*> Your email settings:
    Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:
    
    (Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
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    TekScopes-fullfeatured@...

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Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??

 

I would have used different connectors just to prevent getting the
output and the charge line mixed up.

On Sat, 02 Mar 2013 18:03:07 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas"
<iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote:

Yes David I agree , I just wonder me why BNC was a good choice for output pulse, but not for transmission line extender, since both are on the same power and rise time stress...???
Gabriel.


Re: Could please any one give a clue about this nice pulsed line generator??

 

Yes David I agree , I just wonder me why BNC was a good choice for output pulse, but not for transmission line extender, since both are on the same power and rise time stress...???
Gabriel.

--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@...> wrote:

I should have said GR-874 to BNC female adapter. I suspect the
adapter will be better than using a questionable Chinese panel BNC.

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:55:06 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas"
<iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@...> wrote:


Thanks David, seems this GR connectors will cost more than I paid for the whole generator!!.
Gabriel.
--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@> wrote:

I have found Chinese BNC connectors to be dimensionally questionable.
So much so that I suspect you would be better off keeping the GR-874
connector and buying one BNC adapter.

I just recent made the jump into GR-874 connectors to support my S-1
and S-2 sampling head habit. Besides being hermaphroditic, I have
found them to be very rugged and reliable.

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:45:38 -0000, "iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas"
<iglesia_cristiana_arpas_eternas@> wrote:

Well Craig, what you say is exactly what I think about.
Once the generator arrive , and measure the natural pulse length, then I
will decide add more or not more length inside, or put a bnc instead GR
and have the facility to change pulse width as needed.
What suggestion to test if Chinese bnc are useable?...you are talk about
dielectric losses..or else?
I cant imagine that Chinese not maintain the physical dimension to
maintain 50 Ohms..but who know?.
Mi first notice that GR are "hermaphrodite" ..we can be confident
about sex even in connector matter!! [:D]

What would be useful is add a repetition rate knob adj.
Thanks Craig, for your valuable input
Gabriel.
--- In TekScopes@..., "Craig Sawyers" <c.sawyers@> wrote:

Hi Albert..probably I put some meters of RG147 as fixed(solder)
internal
line
in order to obtain a 100nS pulse width.
What is the secret about this GR connectors ?, I have the temptation
to
replace by a BNC, any wrong with this change?.
Gabriel.
My version of this generator has a fixed solid line coiled up inside.
There
is also a front panel SMA to attach more line if needed.

Nothing special about GR connectors. Essential if you have a lot of
GR
gear; they were really GR's solution to a 5GHz connector, introduced
in
1943. Then later they introduced the GR900 series that went higher in
frequency. Both "hermaphrodite" in that there was not a male and
female
connector - everything was identical. There were lots of in-house
connectors designed - anyone remember the Rhode&Schwarz Dezifix? All
superceded by the N-type for this frequency range. But really, a high
quality, branded BNC would be fine (all BNC's are not created equal!)

Craig



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Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

 

Cliff,

Use DC, not AC coupling for the trigger.
Single-sweep mode would be good too; just press the button whenever you want to update the trace.

HankC, Boston
WA1HOS


067-0587-01 7k calibration plug-in for sale

 

Hi,

I have a working calibration fixture that I have modified with a modern RP-SMA output connector for the TRIG OUT. I include a female BNC to to RP-SMA male adapter cable about 9 inches long. Asking $200 plus shipping. Very good condition.

Jerry Massengale


Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

 

Set trigger mode to Normal not Auto.

Dave

________________________________

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Cliff White
Sent: 02 March 2013 04:13
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?




I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a very slow (less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?

-Cliff


Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

 

You can absolutely trigger on low frequency signals including slow
ramps. Be sure to set TRIG MODE (below the time/div control on the
right side) to NORM instead of AUTO to prevent the sweep from free
running when the triggers occur slower than about 20 Hz.

You may need to use DC input coupling and DC trigger coupling.

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 22:12:46 -0600, Cliff White
<cn.white@...> wrote:

I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a /very/ slow (less
than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to
make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make
it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just
can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?

-Cliff


Re: 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings

Rob
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Well glad it worked out. They sure look similar. Wish my method would have worked for you. I don¡¯t/didn¡¯t want to make it sound trivial as it takes some work to get it all aligned right and started. I also did have to hammer a few home once I got them started with my little tool. In addition, I had a hard time with the very first one because I was trying to slide everything together 90deg out of phase. However if you were doing that (and they were more similar) you would have never got them together. Anyway, I am glad you figured it out.

?

It appears you and I were the only two daft enough to take those apart. *smile *. Usually there is lots of advice on things like this. I can but assume that other people tape them off and or get the sticker residue off which is something I think I may do in the future. It is a lot of extra work but the sticker goop looks bad. so who knows.

?

Anyway, thanks for sharing your solution.

Rob

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of poldhu1901@...
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2013 7:30 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings

?

?

Hi Rob,

?

Many thanks for your further reply and, yes, what you used are what we call circlip pliers but there's no way the pliers I've got?here?would be strong enough?to use with these fittings.

?

I still don't know if our fittings are identical, they might differ perhaps in just the detail, or whether Tektronix may have used serrated spring washers of varying strengths over the years but there's no taper on the latch plate on these and there's no way the latch plate?would line up with the slot in the pin without compressing the spring washer 116, which is under the countersunk head of the pin 115, and that was my whole problem.

?

It was easy enough to get the various items into position?but?significant pressure was needed simultaneously on the countersunk head of 115 and the latching plate 118 before the plate would even begin to line up with the slot.

?

My eventual solution was to use a pair of wire strippers, the old fashioned sort that have two overlapping sections with V grooves cut into them and at right angles to the main arms,?in this instance a pair intended for fairly heavy duty, with some plastic cup washers, the type used under rack fixings, to protect the?fittings either side of the cover, plus?a couple of plain washers to delay the mangling of the cup washers.

?

This arrangement allowed me to apply pressure both to the countersunk head of 115 and also to the plate 118, due to the V groove which straddled the inner end of 115, in order to compress the cupped spring washer 116.

However,?although the spring washer compressed ok to start with there came a point where it seemed to bottom out but with the latching plate and slot still not quite lined up, if I hadn't removed these fittings myself I would have had very serious doubts at this stage as to whether or not they were what was previously fitted!

?

Perseverance and?curses,?plus a?few scraped and bloodstained fingers:-), finally saw each plate in turn sufficiently engaged that it could be driven home with the assistance of a small hammer, but it certainly wasn't a case of just "sliding everything together".

?

Oh well, rested and spry I were, and the new attempts did pay off, but it sure ain't something I'd want to try too often:-)

?

Regards, and thanks again,

?

Nigel

GM8PZR

?

?

In a message dated 27/02/2013 03:24:32 GMT Standard Time, rgwood@... writes:

?

Howdy back Nigel,

<<<¡°but I suspect the 7000 series fittings are different¡±>>>

Quite the contrary it appears that they are identical. The trick is not compression of the 115 and 116 but rather the taper and getting 118 to slide into/underneath ?the ?tabs on 115. I use a small nut I taped to prevent scratching in case I slip. I place it on the bench aligned on 115 (just so that it is well seated against 116 and the case. with the inside of the case facing up. ?I then use the snap ring pliers to get 118 sliding into position. The fit is quite tight so trying to get it to slid on with just a screwdriver (or other implement) is difficult at best. The pliers at the following link are the kind I use/have. I modified them by grinding (with a Dremmle and file) ?one of the pins (more or less flat) flat so that it holds on 118 better sliding it onto/under 115. With the pliers as wide open as they are at first there is a slight alignment issue.

Anyway it worked ¡°ok¡± even without grinding the pliers pin on the first few. Once you do one or two it will be obvious as to the modification.

I, as you; have become convinced that Tektronic's had some kind of a ¡°jig¡± for doing these. ?However my conclusion was that it was likely a set of pliers of some sort that held onto the tabs of 115 making/trivial it easy to slide 118 into place.

Finally it does make a difference on what part of 117 you are on. Basically you want to slide everything together as if 118 is in the locked position.

Again, hopefully helpful and that you are reading this well rested and spry for the new attempts.

Rob

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of poldhu1901@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 7:03 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings

?

Hi Bob

Many thanks for your reply, the pliers you describe are what we call circlip pliers in the UK but I suspect the 7000 series fittings are different as those pliers wouldn't work for what I'm trying to do.

I've created an album in the group photos area called "2901 Time mark Generator" and have uploaded a drawing?to that showing the 2901 covers and fittings.

On this version of the drawing, item 115 is the countersunk securing pin, item 116 is the dished serrated spring washer, item 117 is the plastic index plate, and item 118 is the locking plate that I need to latch into a groove?at the end of the pin.

My problem is the amount of force that's required to compress item 116, I've tried supporting the head of the pin and pressing?down on the locking plate with a nutdriver that fits over the inside end of the pin?but it just won't press down far enough to allow the locking plate to slide into its groove and I'm concerned that the amount of force I'm having to apply is going to damage the cover around the fitting, especially if I slip.

Next up I'm planning to try?a couple of nutdriver heads from a socket set, one pressing on the outside of the countersunk pin and the other over the inside of the pin pressing against the locking plate as before, but this time I'll try compressing them either in a vice or using a G-clamp, which hopefully will allow better control and reduce?the risk of applying pressure to the cover.

It's just getting really silly, I keep thinking I'm missing something but what I've got exactly matches the drawing and there must have been an assembly tool for this, there's no way these latches could have been assembled in a production environment without one.

Regards

Nigel

GM8PZR

In a message dated 26/02/2013 18:00:37 GMT Standard Time, rgwood@... writes:

?

I am on the road and cannot provide pictures until the weekend. The case rings/locks on 7000 series boxes sounds very similar to what you describe. ??

In that case, I modified a standard set of ¡°snap ring¡± or ¡°C-ring¡± pliers *at least that what I learned to call them *. They are pliers that in one setting the jaws compress the c-ring to place it internal to a shaft. The other position they expand to open the ring on the outside of a shaft.

In any event they work good to push the tab under the slot with very little if any downward force. I¡¯ll send pictures this weekend if needed, Hopefully the description gets you started.

Hopefully helpful

Thanks as always for the bandwidth.

Rob ?

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of poldhu1901@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 5:37 AM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] 2901 Time Mark Generator Case Fixings

?

I'm sure this is?could turn out to be a very silly question, BUT.......

Some time ago?I bought a 2901 that was?quite grubby and?removed the top and bottom cover "twist to lock" fixings in order to clean?beneath them.

So far so good, and all cleaned up nicely, but I've yet to find a way of getting them back again that isn't likely to cause damage to the covers!

The fitting method is simple enough in principle, the locking "lever" drops over a slotted shaped end to the locking "screw" and then slides into place to hold the whole thing together against the tension of?a dished serrated?compression washer?that sits under the countersunk "s crew head", but there's so little give in those compression washers that any attempts so far have risked putting sufficient?pressure on the quite thin aluminium covers to damage them.

This is a similar sort of arrangement to the cover fixings on the old 500 series scopes etc but I recall those as being bigger and never causing this sort of aggravation. I'm sure there must have been other small TEK cases with these fasteners, and there has?to be a quick and safe way of fitting them, but I'm wondering now if there was some kind of shaped tool that compressed the fitting from either side without putting pressure on the surrounding metalwork.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

As an aside, for anyone who might be interested, I found some nice internal photos of the 2901 here....

Regar ds

Nigel

GM8PZR


Re: 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

Bob Albert
 

Cliff,

I see no reason why you can't set up the trigger to a low frequency wave.? It works fine on every Tektronix 'scope I have ever used.

Use the internal trigger, set it for dc, and with a higher frequency wave you can adjust the level at which it will trigger.? Then slow down to your 1 Hz and you should be good to go.

Bob



--- On Fri, 3/1/13, Cliff White wrote:

From: Cliff White
Subject: [TekScopes] 466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?
To: TekScopes@...
Date: Friday, March 1, 2013, 8:12 PM

?

I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a very slow (less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?

-Cliff


466 Trigger on <1Hz Square Wave?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I have a case where I need to use my 466 to view a very slow (less than one Hertz) 5 volt p-p square wave. Is it possible and/or easy to make it trigger on such a signal? By using the storage mode I can make it easily viewable, and stay on the screen until the next sweep, I just can't seem to make it reliably trigger. Ideas?

-Cliff