Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
This method, while close enough for HF work, is not anywhere near as close as a GPSDO. With the prices of Trimble Thunderbolts in the $100 range, you really should consider getting one. I have two Trimbles, and two Truetime GPSDO's. I also found over on the
"evil empire" a box containing three phase-locked oscillators (72,5, 725 and 7,975 MHz) that require a 10 MHz reference. That gives me calibration points over a wide range. I have one Trimble that is used as the reference input (through an SRS FS710
Splitter) that feeds all 4 counters. The three phase-locked oscillators are fed from a HB GPSDO. A bit of over-kill, but I get anal about frequency measurement !! 73, Dick, W1KSZ
On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 9:02 AM, Chuck Lewis <clewis@...> wrote:
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?
I¡¯ve had some success coupling the counter¡¯s 10Mz. signal to the SW receiver¡¯s input (just a wire in close proximity ¨C minimum coupling to the counter to avoid pulling the oscillator). If you can get the counter¡¯s signal and the WWV signal reasonably close in amplitude, you should be able to tune the counter¡¯s trimmer to zero-beat with the WWV carrier. Is this what you¡¯re doing? When I tried it, I could hear the WWV signal fluctuate at the beat frequency well below a few Hertz.
? Chuck Lewis ?
? ? I have three frequency counters. Two have oven standards. They are old and purchased from ebay. They all disagreed about what frequency was what. They all
have 10 mhz frequency oscillators. I have tried calibrating them with WWV before and been only moderately successful. Short wave receivers simply do not produce audio below 100 hz. I needed to get much closer than that. What I had going was
three freq counters that might be as much as 45 hz off from each other on 10 mhz.
Then I had an inspiration. I realized that at the receiver detector, there is nothing to limit frequency response. I got out my old DX160 receiver and a
schematic. I found the diode (D3) that did the detecting. I put a scope probe on this. I then tuned in WWV. I put a little antenna on the BNC output of the counters 10 mhz clock. Presto, I had a hetrodyne sine wave from the detector
that gave me the clock error. I moved the counter freq adjust up and down past the null. I had to do this to be sure I was actually finding a null. I had to slow down the scope horizontal sweep speed a whole lot to see the resulting sine
wave. I could actually see a 1 hz sine wave. I let the oven warm up for a half an hour. I set it for a "perfect" null. You still cannot be perfect at this. I had my scope on DC input. I could watch the error signal drift up and down as
much a 1 hz as the oven and crystal drifted. I then set the rest of counters to my new standard.
BTW there was no sound of this mixed signal coming out of my DX160. It was just too low to be reproduced.
This procedure is much cheaper than sending your counter into a lab to be calibrated and finally I can trust the readings on my frequency counters. This is pretty important when you are trying to receive and transmit SSB. A 30 hz
error is pretty apparent when you are listening to it. One of my counters was 45 hz off at 10 mhz! Yikes.
|
Why dont you drop Greg an email and ask him ...my personal
experience is that he is usually decent to work with..(although at
least one list memeber had a problem a few years back)
Dave
On 10/11/2012 10:50 AM, jerry massengale wrote:
?
Hi,
goldeb rubi has an sc502 for sale on the bay that
seems to have a flooded display. how can that be? see
110962526159
Jerry Massengale
--
Dave Henderson
Manuals@...
PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265
|
Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
I¡¯ve had some success coupling the counter¡¯s 10Mz. signal to the SW receiver¡¯s input (just a wire in close proximity ¨C minimum coupling to the counter to avoid pulling the oscillator). If you can get the counter¡¯s signal and the WWV signal reasonably close in amplitude, you should be able to tune the counter¡¯s trimmer to zero-beat with the WWV carrier. Is this what you¡¯re doing? When I tried it, I could hear the WWV signal fluctuate at the beat frequency well below a few Hertz. ? Chuck Lewis ?
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Show quoted text
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of amxcoder Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:44 AM To: TekScopes@... Subject: [TekScopes] How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)? ? I have three frequency counters. Two have oven standards. They are old and purchased from ebay. They all disagreed about what frequency was what. They all have 10 mhz frequency oscillators. I have tried calibrating them with WWV before and been only moderately successful. Short wave receivers simply do not produce audio below 100 hz. I needed to get much closer than that. What I had going was three freq counters that might be as much as 45 hz off from each other on 10 mhz.
Then I had an inspiration. I realized that at the receiver detector, there is nothing to limit frequency response. I got out my old DX160 receiver and a schematic. I found the diode (D3) that did the detecting. I put a scope probe on this. I then tuned in WWV. I put a little antenna on the BNC output of the counters 10 mhz clock. Presto, I had a hetrodyne sine wave from the detector that gave me the clock error. I moved the counter freq adjust up and down past the null. I had to do this to be sure I was actually finding a null. I had to slow down the scope horizontal sweep speed a whole lot to see the resulting sine wave. I could actually see a 1 hz sine wave. I let the oven warm up for a half an hour. I set it for a "perfect" null. You still cannot be perfect at this. I had my scope on DC input. I could watch the error signal drift up and down as much a 1 hz as the oven and crystal drifted. I then set the rest of counters to my new standard.
BTW there was no sound of this mixed signal coming out of my DX160. It was just too low to be reproduced.
This procedure is much cheaper than sending your counter into a lab to be calibrated and finally I can trust the readings on my frequency counters. This is pretty important when you are trying to receive and transmit SSB. A 30 hz error is pretty apparent when you are listening to it. One of my counters was 45 hz off at 10 mhz! Yikes.
|
Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
Right on the button there Dave. When I had only one counter, I could assume it was on frequency. I was wrong to assume that, but it made me feel better. :-)
Michael
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--- In TekScopes@..., Artekmedia <manuals@...> wrote: A man with one counter always knows what frequency he is on ...a man with two counters is never quite sure :-)
Dave NR1DX ArtekManuals.com
On 10/11/2012 9:44 AM, amxcoder wrote:
I have three frequency counters. Two have oven standards. They are old and purchased from ebay. They all disagreed about what frequency was what. They all have 10 mhz frequency oscillators. I have tried calibrating them with WWV before and been only moderately successful. Short wave receivers simply do not produce audio below 100 hz. I needed to get much closer than that. What I had going was three freq counters that might be as much as 45 hz off from each other on 10 mhz.
Then I had an inspiration. I realized that at the receiver detector, there is nothing to limit frequency response. I got out my old DX160 receiver and a schematic. I found the diode (D3) that did the detecting. I put a scope probe on this. I then tuned in WWV. I put a little antenna on the BNC output of the counters 10 mhz clock. Presto, I had a hetrodyne sine wave from the detector that gave me the clock error. I moved the counter freq adjust up and down past the null. I had to do this to be sure I was actually finding a null. I had to slow down the scope horizontal sweep speed a whole lot to see the resulting sine wave. I could actually see a 1 hz sine wave. I let the oven warm up for a half an hour. I set it for a "perfect" null. You still cannot be perfect at this. I had my scope on DC input. I could watch the error signal drift up and down as much a 1 hz as the oven and crystal drifted. I then set the rest of counters to my new standard.
BTW there was no sound of this mixed signal coming out of my DX160. It was just too low to be reproduced.
This procedure is much cheaper than sending your counter into a lab to be calibrated and finally I can trust the readings on my frequency counters. This is pretty important when you are trying to receive and transmit SSB. A 30 hz error is pretty apparent when you are listening to it. One of my counters was 45 hz off at 10 mhz! Yikes.
-- Dave Henderson Manuals@... www.Artekmanuals.com PO Box 175 Welch,MN 55089 651-269-4265
|
Hi,
goldeb rubi has an sc502 for sale on the bay that seems to have a flooded display. how can that be? see 110962526159
Jerry Massengale
|
Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
At 17:28 11-10-12, you wrote:
A man with one counter always knows what frequency he is on ...a man with two counters is never quite sure :-)
Correct, but there is a way. Tune WWV with, say, 1 kHz offset on a decent, stable SSB receiver (you may tune to 9999 kHz USB). Send the 1 kHz audio note from the receiver to a counter - it has not to be precise, only go to 1 part on 1000. Then feed the receiver with the 10 MHz signal you want to measure, and tune the crystal to get the same beat frequency. Repeat a few times, so you are sure that the radio does not drift. An antenna switch helps. It is easy to get +/- 1 Hz, and with some attention (and 10 s timebase) 0,1 Hz. 73 - Marco IK1ODO
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Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
It's due to diurnal motion of the ionosphere, which relays the HF signal around the globe. See for example
For this reason WWVB (60 kHz carrier) was relied on for long-term stability before GPS. LF propagates along the ground, so the time delay is more stable.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., Jim McClanahan <w4jbm@...> wrote:
I don't think there is any Doppler shift associated with two points that aren't in motion realitive to each other.
"With a soldering iron in one hand, a schematic in the other, and a puzzled look on his face..."
|
Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
A man with one counter always knows what frequency he is on ...a man
with two counters is never quite sure
:-)
Dave
NR1DX
ArtekManuals.com
On 10/11/2012 9:44 AM, amxcoder wrote:
?
I have three frequency counters. Two have oven standards.
They are old and
purchased from ebay. They all disagreed about what
frequency was what. They all
have 10 mhz frequency oscillators. I have tried
calibrating them with WWV before
and been only moderately successful. Short wave receivers
simply do not produce
audio below 100 hz. I needed to get much closer than that.
What I had going was
three freq counters that might be as much as 45 hz off
from each other on 10
mhz.
Then I had an inspiration. I realized that at the receiver
detector, there is
nothing to limit frequency response. I got out my old
DX160 receiver and a
schematic. I found the diode (D3) that did the detecting.
I put a scope probe on
this. I then tuned in WWV. I put a little antenna on the
BNC output of the
counters 10 mhz clock. Presto, I had a hetrodyne sine wave
from the detector
that gave me the clock error. I moved the counter freq
adjust up and down past
the null. I had to do this to be sure I was actually
finding a null. I had to
slow down the scope horizontal sweep speed a whole lot to
see the resulting sine
wave. I could actually see a 1 hz sine wave. I let the
oven warm up for a half
an hour. I set it for a "perfect" null. You still cannot
be perfect at this. I
had my scope on DC input. I could watch the error signal
drift up and down as
much a 1 hz as the oven and crystal drifted. I then set
the rest of counters to
my new standard.
BTW there was no sound of this mixed signal coming out of
my DX160. It was just
too low to be reproduced.
This procedure is much cheaper than sending your counter
into a lab to be
calibrated and finally I can trust the readings on my
frequency counters. This
is pretty important when you are trying to receive and
transmit SSB. A 30 hz
error is pretty apparent when you are listening to it. One
of my counters was 45
hz off at 10 mhz! Yikes.
--
Dave Henderson
Manuals@...
PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265
|
Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
> Just for the sake of argument, what's the doppler shift between you and WWV?
?
I don't think there is any Doppler shift associated with two points that aren't in motion realitive to each other. In the classic "sound of the train" example, you hear the shift if you are waiting at the crossing, but you wouldn't if you were on the train.
?
I have seen people with certain applications that worry about the latency (time of travel for the signal) in their reception of WWV, but I would think that would be trivial for this type of application.
? 73 de Jim W4JBM
http://www.hamuniverse.com/w4jbm/
"With a soldering iron in one hand, a schematic in the other, and a puzzled look on his face..."
?
|
Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
Just for the sake of argument, what's the doppler shift between you and WWV?
With all your counters set to the same zero-beat, at least they all read the same frequency, all other things being equal, so any error is equal, at least on the time base.
73 Jim N6OTQ
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From: amxcoder To: TekScopes@... Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:44 AM Subject:
[TekScopes] How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap) I have three frequency counters. Two have oven standards. They are old and purchased from ebay. They all disagreed about what frequency was what. They all have 10 mhz frequency oscillators. I have tried calibrating them with WWV before and been only moderately successful. Short wave receivers simply do not produce audio below 100 hz. I needed to get much closer than that. What I had going was three freq counters that might be as much as 45 hz off from each other on 10 mhz. Then I had an inspiration. I realized that at the receiver detector, there is nothing to limit frequency response. I got out my old DX160 receiver and a schematic. I found the diode (D3) that did the detecting. I put a scope probe on this. I then tuned in WWV. I put a little antenna on the BNC output of the counters 10 mhz clock. Presto, I had a hetrodyne sine
wave from the detector that gave me the clock error. I moved the counter freq adjust up and down past the null. I had to do this to be sure I was actually finding a null. I had to slow down the scope horizontal sweep speed a whole lot to see the resulting sine wave. I could actually see a 1 hz sine wave. I let the oven warm up for a half an hour. I set it for a "perfect" null. You still cannot be perfect at this. I had my scope on DC input. I could watch the error signal drift up and down as much a 1 hz as the oven and crystal drifted. I then set the rest of counters to my new standard. BTW there was no sound of this mixed signal coming out of my DX160. It was just too low to be reproduced. This procedure is much cheaper than sending your counter into a lab to be calibrated and finally I can trust the readings on my frequency counters. This is pretty important when you are trying to receive and transmit
SSB. A 30 hz error is pretty apparent when you are listening to it. One of my counters was 45 hz off at 10 mhz! Yikes. ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: ? ? <*> Your email settings: ? ? Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: ? ? ? ? (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: ? ? TekScopes-digest@... ? ? TekScopes-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: ? ? TekScopes-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: ? ?
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Re: How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
You can also do it the modern way, and measure the period of the 1pps output of a GPS receiver. (Assuming you don't want to go to the trouble of building/buying a GPSDO.)
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How to calibrate a frequency counter (on the cheap)
I have three frequency counters. Two have oven standards. They are old and purchased from ebay. They all disagreed about what frequency was what. They all have 10 mhz frequency oscillators. I have tried calibrating them with WWV before and been only moderately successful. Short wave receivers simply do not produce audio below 100 hz. I needed to get much closer than that. What I had going was three freq counters that might be as much as 45 hz off from each other on 10 mhz.
Then I had an inspiration. I realized that at the receiver detector, there is nothing to limit frequency response. I got out my old DX160 receiver and a schematic. I found the diode (D3) that did the detecting. I put a scope probe on this. I then tuned in WWV. I put a little antenna on the BNC output of the counters 10 mhz clock. Presto, I had a hetrodyne sine wave from the detector that gave me the clock error. I moved the counter freq adjust up and down past the null. I had to do this to be sure I was actually finding a null. I had to slow down the scope horizontal sweep speed a whole lot to see the resulting sine wave. I could actually see a 1 hz sine wave. I let the oven warm up for a half an hour. I set it for a "perfect" null. You still cannot be perfect at this. I had my scope on DC input. I could watch the error signal drift up and down as much a 1 hz as the oven and crystal drifted. I then set the rest of counters to my new standard.
BTW there was no sound of this mixed signal coming out of my DX160. It was just too low to be reproduced.
This procedure is much cheaper than sending your counter into a lab to be calibrated and finally I can trust the readings on my frequency counters. This is pretty important when you are trying to receive and transmit SSB. A 30 hz error is pretty apparent when you are listening to it. One of my counters was 45 hz off at 10 mhz! Yikes.
|
Re: Hi,I'm new to the group.
Hmmm....this opens up the possible causes to beyond the crt (and adds a few inside it). It's definitely time for a picture or three. -ls-
"emilypetersen1991" <s-petersen@...> wrote:
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The confetti,seems to move with the trace,and blink in and out like a reflection,I'll try to get a pic Friday,the scope(a 464) is not here at the moment.I haven't looked a the crt closely,can the rods be seen in the neck of the tube?Does any other tube fit?sorry,I misstyped the scope is a 464. --- In TekScopes@..., larrys@... wrote:
Best guess is one of the glass support rods in the crt fractured and
dropped a few tiny shards of glass inside the tube. These would damage the expansion mesh creating the "confetti". It's a guess, but one I've seen more than once. 465 tubes are not hard to come by.
-ls-
"emilypetersen1991" <s-petersen@...> wrote:
I have been searching posts,and with google and I can't seem tofind
the answer,My 465 scope seems to be working properly except for some
sparkles,artifactsn,and reflections on the screen,intensity and focus
seem to work at it should.It appears to throw confetti on the screen.
I was wondering where would be a good place to look?is it an amplifier
problem,or a crt voltage problem? Thanks, Scott
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Anybody have a CRT from an SC503 - 154-0812-00?
Searched all the usual places, nothing shows up.
Thanks, Mark
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Re: Jumpy trigger control on Tektronics 475
Hmmm... there's a trace intensification in concordance with the beat, but only when triggered. Do a careful check on the power supply voltages on the trigger generator, schematic 5 & 6. Look at the voltages +5, +15, +50 and -8 volts. I strongly suspect a problem on the +50V. All other voltages are derived from it, as you sees from the schematic? 11: the +50 is used as reference voltage. If the +50 V goes wrong, all other voltages go wrong also.
Max
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Re: Tantalums cant take surges. (Subject was Aluminiumversus Tantalum Electrolytics)
There is no lean towards the lower tolerance for Rubycon or Nippon Chemicon (some Panasonic) if correctly measured: <>
At 1k you will measure a lower value, I got 5% lower for a 470u.
Believe whatever you want, I've pointed out what I thought to be imprecise statements, I don't intend to do any more than that.
ST
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On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 12:36 AM, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> wrote: On Wed, 10 Oct 2012, Stefan Trethan wrote:
That explains that then, they measure a few percent lower at 1kHz. It's unfair to accuse a manufacturer of penny pinching if you don't meet their specified testing conditions (usually 120Hz). It gives same readings at 120Hz for capacitance if it can measure it (>100uF). For 10-100uF range the most accurate results are at 400 Hz. 1KHz is a convenient test frequency giving wide range with relatively good accuracy. It might give up to 3% error at the boundary F/C ranges where it barely measures capacitance (too high F for big C or too low F for small C) but it is never 20%. If you want to get most of it, sure you have to choose a proper frequency. But for 3 digits 1KHz is good for measuring almost anything. Also capacitance itself does not vary that much with frequency. ESR varies orders of magnitude more.
Saving a few percent of foil is probably not worth the hassle of having to meet tighter tolerances caused by leaning towards the lower end. More likely they used to go above nominal with the old caps It does. And almost all big manufacturers has shown tendency towards saving a penny risking a buck. It doesn't make sense in a long run but who thinks farther than a quarter? Does it make sense to lay off the best (those with highest salaries) to make a nice profit figure? Can you name a company that did not fell to a temptation of using cheaper chinese capacitors in high frequency high ripple applications and thus avoided massive failures because of blown capacitors? Remember, profit of saving a penny is now and this is when the higher management gets their bonuses for making profit. Failures are later and they are not punished for those. And no one of them is going to work for a particular company forever -- they will go to a different one for making that one more profitable too once they are done with their current one (i.e. once it is destroyed by making it more profitable.)
because tolerances were asymmetrical back then. Nope. Old ones usually fall in the middle of their tolerance range. If it was +80/-20% the majority of 1,000uF capacitors had 1,300uF capacitance. And even +/-20% ones rarely went under 100%. It was also understood that it is better to overshoot than undershoot as far as capacitance goes.
I'll check out the test data to see if the distribution is offset when I get the chance.
ST
On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 10:23 PM, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> wrote:
On Wed, 10 Oct 2012, Stefan Trethan wrote:
At 1kHz that's just about spot on specification for the taiyo yuden part. The impedance at this frequency will be what, 15, 16 Ohms? Not sure why you'd worry.... I do not worry. It is not about using it at a particular frequency.
At what frequency did you measure capacitance? Just so that we don't waste both our time again. 1KHz. And I don't have time to waste too.
ST
On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> wrote:
On Wed, 10 Oct 2012, Stefan Trethan wrote:
On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 6:59 PM, Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@...> wrote:
There were bunch of 10uF 25V ones that I was going to replace with 1206 SMD X5R ceramics but to my surprise those dipped tantalums had something like 300mOhm ESR that is actually BETTER than ceramics (Taiyo Yuden 10uF 25V 1206 X5R ceramics of recent manufacturing that I had several reels in my parts bins have something like 350mOhms ESR.) At what frequency? The ceramic should have well below 10mR at 100kHz according to specification, and I just don't see how it could be otherwise considering the construction. 1KHz. This is actual measured values. As for the specifications majority of manufacturers don't give any values on ESR in their datasheets. It is "common knowledge" they are "very low ESR" but reality check shows totally different picture. If you look at e.g. NIC NMC High CV Series datasheet (one of the few who give data on ESR) you'll see a ESR vs Frequency chart. It clearly shows that MLCCs are better when going into MHz range but they are nothing to write home about at lower frequencies.
Regarding the generally low capacitance value on electrolytics, I have extensive test data for Rubycon and Nippon Chemicon at work and will check if they are consistently at the lower capacitance tolerance. Once again, I do NOT have very extensive data, just several hundred capacitors. It might be not a representative sample but I could not find a SINGLE one of recent manufacturing that was 100% of stated capacity or higher. On the old ones I could not find more than couple of pieces that were under 100%.
ST
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Re: Jumpy trigger control on Tektronics 475
It looks like the sine wave has a lot of noise. Does selecting HF Rej for the A trigger help? You may need to get a better ground between your sine wave source and scope to minimize the noise. An all coax connection would probably help, if available.
--John Gord
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--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@...> wrote: This will not fix the problem but may help with diagnosis if there is a video camera synchronization issue. Fiddle with the trigger A holdoff control which is located toward the bottom right. Holdoff is used to increase the time after a sweep before the next trigger will be accepted.
I would still check the power supply voltages and ripple before getting too involved with looking for other causes of the problem.
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 01:07:46 -0000, "dawtesla2" <dawtesla2@...> wrote:
Here's a new video that could help. or
--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@> wrote:
I noticed that and wonder if the relatively low video camera frame rate is disguising what is really going on.
On Mon, 08 Oct 2012 22:08:41 -0400, "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@> wrote:
I would open it up and check the power supplies for voltage and ripple per the manual. It seems to be jumping sync at a periodic rate.
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Alright I realized I could couple the cal. signal into the ext. trigger bnc with my second scope probe... silly me! Unfortunately it didn't change anything, meaning that I still have my untriggered signal no matter how much I turn that trigger level knob. I have been patiently browsing the service manual (though I have not read it religiously cover to cover quite yet) and I haven't found a good chart for troubleshooting the triggering section yet. For all I know the problem could be more general and not be caused by faulty circuitry on the trigger board at all!
Thanks a lot Tom for your input.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" wrote: > > > > > It looks like I'm going to need some more coax for this :( > But if I go into "A Trig View" mode, change source to ext. and press the beam finder button, a straight but slightly distorted trace appears beneath the signal and here again adjusting the trigger level doesn't change anything. > > Next thing on my to-buy list : bnc to bnc coax and a T adapter. > > --- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" tmiller11147@ wrote: > > > > Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select Ext on the trigger source. What happens? > > > > Tom >
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Re: Hi,I'm new to the group.
The confetti,seems to move with the trace,and blink in and out like a reflection,I'll try to get a pic Friday,the scope(a 464) is not here at the moment.I haven't looked a the crt closely,can the rods be seen in the neck of the tube?Does any other tube fit?sorry,I misstyped the scope is a 464.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., larrys@... wrote: Best guess is one of the glass support rods in the crt fractured and dropped a few tiny shards of glass inside the tube. These would damage the expansion mesh creating the "confetti". It's a guess, but one I've seen more than once. 465 tubes are not hard to come by. -ls-
"emilypetersen1991" <s-petersen@...> wrote:
I have been searching posts,and with google and I can't seem tofind the answer,My 465 scope seems to be working properly except for some sparkles,artifactsn,and reflections on the screen,intensity and focus seem to work at it should.It appears to throw confetti on the screen. I was wondering where would be a good place to look?is it an amplifier problem,or a crt voltage problem? Thanks, Scott
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Jumpy trigger control on Tektronics 475
This will not fix the problem but may help with diagnosis if there is a video camera synchronization issue. Fiddle with the trigger A holdoff control which is located toward the bottom right. Holdoff is used to increase the time after a sweep before the next trigger will be accepted. I would still check the power supply voltages and ripple before getting too involved with looking for other causes of the problem. On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 01:07:46 -0000, "dawtesla2" <dawtesla2@...> wrote: Here's a new video that could help. or
--- In TekScopes@..., David <davidwhess@...> wrote:
I noticed that and wonder if the relatively low video camera frame rate is disguising what is really going on.
On Mon, 08 Oct 2012 22:08:41 -0400, "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@...> wrote:
I would open it up and check the power supplies for voltage and ripple per the manual. It seems to be jumping sync at a periodic rate.
|