Re: OT Automatic night lights
On 09/29/2012 02:34 PM, jerry massengale wrote:
?
Hi ,
The small patio lites that work off solar cells and lite
automatically at dark have a small 5pin IC that I think is
a battery charger circuit. It is marked 5259a. Does anyone
have a schematic or datasheet?
Jerry Massengale
No, but my curiosity got the better of me one day, and I fired one
up
and let my 7623A take a look at it.
Seems to be a boost regulator running at just below 1 MHZ.
The cute part is that the complete unit sold for less than a AA NiCd
battery
like the one inside the light.
There are several different types out there.
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
That should not happen with a properly calibrated 1MOhm input. The high impedance attenuator networks have adjustments to trim their input capacitances so even if the input capacitance of the high impedance buffer can not be adjusted, the attenuators can still be matched to it so any probe will maintain compensation at all input attenuation settings. If changing the amplifier input attenuation changes the probe compensation, then something is wrong. For example my 2230 (or 2232) only has input capacitance adjustments for the two input attenuators while my 2247A (or 7A13, 7A18, 7A26) also has an input capacitance trim for the high impedance buffer so first I adjust the normalizer on the 2230 while it is set from 2mV/div to 50mV/div where the input attenuators are not used, then I adjust the 2230's two input attenuators using the normalizer, and then I adjust all three input adjustments on the 2247A using the normalizer. After that, a probe will have the same compensation on both oscilloscope and at any vertical sensitivity. For my 7A22 with its high input capacitance, I found that some x10 probes have just enough compensation range even though their specifications say they only go to 35pF or so. I have been thinking about rebuilding some P6008 and P6009 probes for my 7A22 and 7A13 so I can match their DC attenuation for better common mode rejection. On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:37:41 -0000, "Albert" <aodiversen@...> wrote: Hi Jerry,
What I meant is that you probably used a more sensitive V/div for the probes. In theory it could be, for instance, that you used 0.5 V/div for the normalizer and 0.1 V/div for the probe, while the plugins have different input C at 0.5 V/div but equal input C at 0.1 V/div.
For the present purpose I would call the calibrator output low ohmic. Though "officially" a 50R source, cable and 50R feedthru should be used.
I saw now that I made a severe mistake in the overshoot calculation. I completely forgot that the probe has an internal C in parallel with the amplifier input C. That considerably reduces the probe mismatch effect (and explains why your P6105 can have 13 pF input C but still can be adjusted for 22 pF amplifier C).
For the 7A22 I bought a pair of P6062B. I also have a pair of differential probes P6023 but these are so large.
Albert
Hi Albert,
The amplifiers were all three set for a good display on all test. The calibrator output of a 7834 was used, it is a high impedance source. I agree that the main duty of a normalizer to to get as many probes and amplifiers working together as possible.
My P6105 100mhz probe from Tek is marked for 13pf but can be set for use with a 22pf amplifier. Very few probes can be adjusted to 47pf input required for a stock 7A22. I am not sure what range the 7A22 can be used with.
Pomona boxes are nice and shielded but I doubt that shielding is necessary in a typical lab or shop setting. They are pricy. I use a $1.90 plastic box from allelectronics.
Jerry Massengale
Hi Jerry,
I could be wrong but calculations say that the step response overshoot (or undershoot) of the transfered probe should be about twice that of the transfered normalizer. For instance, if both are correctly adjusted for 20 pF 'scope input and then moved to 18 pF 'scope input, the probe would show about 10% overshoot and the normalizer about 5%.
Did you use the same V/div settings for probe and normalizer? Did you use a low impedance source for testing?
Albert
|
Re: OT Automatic night lights
Jerry, ? This Micrel 300mA High PSRR, Low Noise μCap CMOS LDO sounds like it might be what you are looking for. It is a 5 pin thin SOT23-5 surface mount IC. The datasheet can be found at: ? DESCRIPTION: The MIC5259 is an efficient CMOS voltage regulator optimized for low-noise applications. It offers 1.5% initial accuracy, low dropout voltage (300mV at 300mA) and low ground current (typically 105μA at light load). The MIC5259 provides a very-low-noise output, ideal for RF applications where a clean voltage source is required. The MIC5259 has a high PSRR even at low supply voltages, critical for battery operated electronics. A noise bypass pin is also available for further reduction of output noise. Designed specifically for handheld and battery-powered devices, the MIC5259 provides a TTL-logic-compatible enable pin. When disabled, power consumption drops to nearly zero. The MIC5259 also works with low-ESR ceramic capacitors, reducing the amount of board space necessary for power applications; critical issue in handheld wireless devices. Key features include current limit, thermal shutdown, faster transient response, and an active clamp to speed up device turn-off. The MIC5259 is available in the 6-pin 2mm × 2mm MLF? package and the 5-pin Thin SOT-23 package in a wide range of output voltages. Data sheets and support documentation can be found on Micrel’s web site at . ? Dennis ? From: jerry massengale, Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 11:34 AM
Hi ,
The small patio lites that work off solar cells and lite automatically at dark have a small 5pin IC that I think is a battery charger circuit. It is marked 5259a. Does anyone have a schematic or datasheet?
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Hi Jerry,
What I meant is that you probably used a more sensitive V/div for the probes. In theory it could be, for instance, that you used 0.5 V/div for the normalizer and 0.1 V/div for the probe, while the plugins have different input C at 0.5 V/div but equal input C at 0.1 V/div.
For the present purpose I would call the calibrator output low ohmic. Though "officially" a 50R source, cable and 50R feedthru should be used.
I saw now that I made a severe mistake in the overshoot calculation. I completely forgot that the probe has an internal C in parallel with the amplifier input C. That considerably reduces the probe mismatch effect (and explains why your P6105 can have 13 pF input C but still can be adjusted for 22 pF amplifier C).
For the 7A22 I bought a pair of P6062B. I also have a pair of differential probes P6023 but these are so large.
Albert
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Hi Albert,
The amplifiers were all three set for a good display on all test. The calibrator output of a 7834 was used, it is a high impedance source. I agree that the main duty of a normalizer to to get as many probes and amplifiers working together as possible.
My P6105 100mhz probe from Tek is marked for 13pf but can be set for use with a 22pf amplifier. Very few probes can be adjusted to 47pf input required for a stock 7A22. I am not sure what range the 7A22 can be used with.
Pomona boxes are nice and shielded but I doubt that shielding is necessary in a typical lab or shop setting. They are pricy. I use a $1.90 plastic box from allelectronics.
Jerry Massengale Hi Jerry,
I could be wrong but calculations say that the step response overshoot (or undershoot) of the transfered probe should be about twice that of the transfered normalizer. For instance, if both are correctly adjusted for 20 pF 'scope input and then moved to 18 pF 'scope input, the probe would show about 10% overshoot and the normalizer about 5%.
Did you use the same V/div settings for probe and normalizer? Did you use a low impedance source for testing?
Albert
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Hi Albert,
The amplifiers were all three set for a good display on all test. The calibrator output of a 7834 was used, it is a high impedance source. I agree that the main duty of a normalizer to to get as many probes and amplifiers working together as possible.
My P6105 100mhz probe from Tek is marked for 13pf but can be set for use with a 22pf amplifier. Very few probes can be adjusted to 47pf input required for a stock 7A22. I am not sure what range the 7A22 can be used with.
Pomona boxes are nice and shielded but I doubt that shielding is necessary in a typical lab or shop setting. They are pricy. I use a $1.90 plastic box from allelectronics.
Jerry Massengale
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Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert
To: TekScopes
Sent: Sat, Sep 29, 2012 2:45 pm
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer calibration
?
Hi Jerry,
I could be wrong but calculations say that the step response overshoot (or undershoot) of the transfered probe should be about twice that of the transfered normalizer. For instance, if both are correctly adjusted for 20 pF 'scope input and then moved to 18 pF 'scope input, the probe would show about 10% overshoot and the normalizer about 5%.
Did you use the same V/div settings for probe and normalizer? Did you use a low impedance source for testing?
Albert
> I measured the fixture with the cap and resistor removed and measured 1.7pf, see pix. These low capacitance measurements are very difficult to make. You must try to null out the capacitance of your meter leads. I found that setting up a chinese 100mhz probe on the 20 pf 7A16P made very little difference when moved to a 7A26 or 7A18. The 7A26 acted like it could use a bit more capacitance in the probe. I find that using the trimmer cap makes set up easier but I had hoped to get buy with low cost 1206 caps. I am playing with the idea of making some normalizers for sale. I have a bunch of trimmers on order.
> Jerry Massengale
> > I built a homemade normalizer using a 22pf 1206 cap and a 1Meg 1206 resistor. I expected it work be a 22pf normalizer. It produces a square wave with my 7A16P 20pf amplifier but shows a bit of low freq rolloff on the leading edge with a 7A26 or 7A18. The 22pf caps I am using seem to be a bit over 22pf. I am puzzled that it looks better with the 7A16p than the 7A26. How are normalizers calibrated?
> > Jerry Massengale
|
Re: 465B schematics and tantalum curiosity
i just wanted to add a note that i just ordered the service manual from arttekmanuals and am VERY satisfied.
The download link was delivered quickly.
The manual is quite clear, including the schematics.
The manual is bookmarked for easy navigation.
The manual is text searchable!
well worth the pittance this stingy codger paid for it.
phil
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--- In TekScopes@..., "pdxareaid" <public_email@...> wrote:
thanks, i'll check it out.
--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@> wrote:
To get a good copy of the manual, see . Dave is not expensive and you will be hard put to find better scans.
Note that there are two versions of the manual, early and late, and it goes by the serial number.
As to your ohmmeter question, I always make the measurement using the correct polarity on the meter. Mainly this is to avoid semiconductor junction biasing that could give false readings.
The main failure mode for tantalums is overvoltage causing breakdown of the dielectric. This causes a gross overcurrent condition that can result in a small fire unless there is some form of current limiting.
Regards,
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: pdxareaid
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 12:00 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 465B schematics and tantalum curiosity
Greetings,
I am waiting on replacement tantalums to show up to complete my 465B scope.
While I was waiting, I thought I would dive in and do a tant survey and look for dry tants in circuits that are dangerously close to their rated voltage (and therefore subject to early failure). I have already found a couple without really looking so i thought a more in depth look might be worthwhile. I found the schematics in the service manual are not clear enough to read the component numbers (Cxxxx etc.) I could probably muddle thru it, making good guesses and cross checking, but I was wondering if someone had a better set of schematics for the 465B. I have both the standard pdf and djvu versions of the service manual (found at ) and they are both problematic. I asked this question once for the 465M and got lucky with "try this". hoping to get lucky for the 465B.
Another question: I know very little about dry tants but I do know that even a brief reverse polarity connection will damage the tant. Does one need to worry about such when looking for shorted tants, realizing the volt meter is providing its own polarity for resistance readings? ie. Are tants sensitive to such a miniscule current? If not a practical worry...academically: is there some small degradation? I see there are people in here with lots of tant knowledge that might be able to comment.
Phil
ps. If i do the survey, I will post the results for 465B owners to fret over :-)
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Thanks Jochen and Tom! Very useful to me, still learning...
Keith Ostertag
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--- In TekScopes@..., Jochens Feldhaar <jochen_feldhaar@...> wrote:
Hi Keith,
I have made a lot of them working for a German Oscilloscope manufacturer.
You can use alsmost any of the available BNC-M to BNC-F enclosures, and
then you install a 1M resistor and parallel to that a 12 pF cap, also
parallel a 20 pF (max) C trimmer. So now the normalizer is "tuned" to
the input capacitance at 1 kHz for best square signal in the att setting
that will pass thru directly. Then, adjust the 1:2, 1:5, 1:10, 1:100 and
1:1000 attenuators using the normalizer.
Newer scopes have a c trimmer for adjusting the input capacitance, for
these the normalizer must be externally adjusted to a fixed value,
including the one BNC connector.
Was that of help?
Jochen DH6FAZ
Am 29.09.2012 20:49, schrieb keithostertag:
Jerry-
Maybe you would be willing (or someone else?) to share your schematic
for the normalizer? And any tips for making them?
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Jerry, I agree that a probe could be "way off". But, if it is close, you can use it to adjust a scope input to match it. Then move it to another scope & adj that scope to match. Now, both scopes will be the same, though they may be "off" a little from spec, it won't matter. The probe will not need to be adjusted when moved from one scope? to the other. And since normalizers are adjustable, you would have the same "chicken or egg" problem as you'd have when using a probe as a normalizer. A normalizer is basically a 2X probe without the cable. HankC
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Here is the datasheet for the Pomona box below.
Attached
?
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Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 3:10
PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer
calibration
?
Get a Pomona 2391 box with the male and female BNC connectors. Connect a
1 meg, 1% film resistor between the center pins of the two connectors. On the
female connector, put a?49.9 ohm, 1%?resistor to ground (if your
pulse source is 50 ohms). I usually place a 10 pf cap and a 2-15 pf trimmer
across the 1 meg resistor. You can then calibrate it to a known good probe of
use a capacitance bridge to set it to your desired capacitance (usually 20 pf
total).
?
YMMV though.
?
Tom
?
?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 2:49
PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer
calibration
?
Jerry-
Maybe you would be willing (or someone else?) to share your
schematic for the normalizer? And any tips for making
them?
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
--- In TekScopes@..., jerry
massengale wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> the problem with using a probe to adjust the input is that your
probe may be way off. Unless you are sure of the probe, it is best to use a
known device which a normalizer is made. If you get a probe that was
adjusted to use with a 7A22(47pf) you could be the blind leading the blind.
LeCroy 9400s and SC502s use 47pf inputs also.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jerry Massengale
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
HankC
> To: TekScopes <TekScopes@...>
>
Sent: Sat, Sep 29, 2012 12:32 pm
> Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer
calibration
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The purpose of a normalizer is to ensure that the input C of the plugin is
"normal" so it is within range of the compensation adjust of the probes
likely to be used with it.
> In the end, it really doesn't matter if
it's 19, 20, or 21 pf input.
> You could use an existing probe as a
normalizer as long as you don't move its adjustment.
> Then, adjust
the C-in of your other scopes for a good sq wave with this probe.
>
Use the most sensitive V/div but make sure no preamp gets switched in at the
more sensitive ranges.
> Once done, adjust your other probes to the
scope they're being used on.
>
> HankC,
Boston
>
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Get a Pomona 2391 box with the male and female BNC connectors. Connect a 1
meg, 1% film resistor between the center pins of the two connectors. On the
female connector, put a?49.9 ohm, 1%?resistor to ground (if your pulse
source is 50 ohms). I usually place a 10 pf cap and a 2-15 pf trimmer across the
1 meg resistor. You can then calibrate it to a known good probe of use a
capacitance bridge to set it to your desired capacitance (usually 20 pf
total).
?
YMMV though.
?
Tom
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 2:49
PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer
calibration
?
Jerry-
Maybe you would be willing (or someone else?) to share your
schematic for the normalizer? And any tips for making
them?
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
--- In TekScopes@..., jerry
massengale wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> the problem with using a probe to adjust the input is that your probe
may be way off. Unless you are sure of the probe, it is best to use a known
device which a normalizer is made. If you get a probe that was adjusted to use
with a 7A22(47pf) you could be the blind leading the blind. LeCroy 9400s and
SC502s use 47pf inputs also.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jerry Massengale
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HankC
> To: TekScopes <TekScopes@...>
>
Sent: Sat, Sep 29, 2012 12:32 pm
> Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer
calibration
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The
purpose of a normalizer is to ensure that the input C of the plugin is
"normal" so it is within range of the compensation adjust of the probes likely
to be used with it.
> In the end, it really doesn't matter if it's 19,
20, or 21 pf input.
> You could use an existing probe as a normalizer as
long as you don't move its adjustment.
> Then, adjust the C-in of your
other scopes for a good sq wave with this probe.
> Use the most
sensitive V/div but make sure no preamp gets switched in at the more sensitive
ranges.
> Once done, adjust your other probes to the scope they're being
used on.
>
> HankC, Boston
>
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Hi Keith,
I have made a lot of them working for a German Oscilloscope
manufacturer.
You can use alsmost any of the available BNC-M to BNC-F enclosures,
and then you install a 1M resistor and parallel to that a 12 pF cap,
also parallel a 20 pF (max) C trimmer. So now the normalizer is
"tuned" to the input capacitance at 1 kHz for best square signal in
the att setting that will pass thru directly. Then, adjust the 1:2,
1:5, 1:10, 1:100 and 1:1000 attenuators using the normalizer.
Newer scopes have a c trimmer for adjusting the input capacitance,
for these the normalizer must be externally adjusted to a fixed
value, including the one BNC connector.
Was that of help?
Jochen DH6FAZ
Am 29.09.2012 20:49, schrieb
keithostertag:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Jerry-
Maybe you would be willing (or someone else?) to share
your schematic for the normalizer? And any tips for making
them?
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
--- In TekScopes@...,
jerry massengale wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> the problem with using a probe to adjust the input is
that your probe may be way off. Unless you are sure of the
probe, it is best to use a known device which a normalizer
is made. If you get a probe that was adjusted to use with
a 7A22(47pf) you could be the blind leading the blind.
LeCroy 9400s and SC502s use 47pf inputs also.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jerry Massengale
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HankC
> To: TekScopes <TekScopes@...>
> Sent: Sat, Sep 29, 2012 12:32 pm
> Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer calibration
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The purpose of a normalizer is to ensure that the
input C of the plugin is "normal" so it is within range of
the compensation adjust of the probes likely to be used
with it.
> In the end, it really doesn't matter if it's 19, 20,
or 21 pf input.
> You could use an existing probe as a normalizer as
long as you don't move its adjustment.
> Then, adjust the C-in of your other scopes for a good
sq wave with this probe.
> Use the most sensitive V/div but make sure no preamp
gets switched in at the more sensitive ranges.
> Once done, adjust your other probes to the scope
they're being used on.
>
> HankC, Boston
>
|
Re: How to determine if the CRT is exhausted?
Hi Max,
Chuck mentioned that "double peaking". I thought you might know that already since there are many references to this in the old messages and Stan mentions this behavior in his book.
The Intensity range (in volts) in the 564 is very large, probably because there is no adjustment like CRT Grid Bias. Hence the knob rotation from dark to top (but useful) brightness is very small, say one hour or so.
Both CRTs are mentioned throughout the manual, for instance in the calibration procedure step 27d. Hence if there were any other differences in Opt 8 I think that would have been mentioned.
Albert
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Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "Max Mazza" <mmazza@...> wrote:
--- In TekScopes@..., "aobp11" <aodiversen@> wrote:
Hi Max,
If the rest of the 'scope is OK, then the 'scope itself is the best
environment to test the CRT, isn't it? So how bad is the CRT in ordinary
use? I could compare with my 564s.
In ordinary use CRT is good enough, but it cannot reach a brilliance
such to cause burnout. Rotating the INTENSITY knob up to approx 1/3 of
its range, the brightness reaches its maximum, then remains
substantially unchanged.
A friend of this forum, Chuck Harris, just emailed me that:
"In non storage mode, the CRT will show low emission by reduced
brightness, and a double hump in brightness as the intensity control
is increased to maximum. "
This is exactly the behavior I got! The double hump is almost
imperceptible, but it's present. So I have to conclude that my CRT is
definitively exhausted....
Is it irrespective of plugin? Blanking could be faulty in one of the plugins.
Yes, it's the same with any plugin. When doing measurements and
checking, I've put the CRT CATHODE SELECTOR in EXT CRT.
I don't think rejuvenation can solve my problem, since the CRT is one of
the most important components of a scope. Better I replace the tube.
In this regard, I've found two candidates, at reasonable prices, both
used: one 154-0410-00 (T5640-200) and one 154-0418-00 (T5640-201).
The last is the one with major writing speed 100 cm/sec vs. 25 cm/sec
for the T5640-200.
The question now is: can I use the T5640-201 in place of the original
T5640-200 without modifications in my 564?
This question arises from the fact that the manual says that the tube
T5640-201 is planned for model 564 Mod 08, but I could not find any
documentation that talks about a 564 Mod 08!
Do you have some information about it?
Max
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Jerry-
Maybe you would be willing (or someone else?) to share your schematic for the normalizer? And any tips for making them?
Thanks,
Keith Ostertag
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., jerry massengale <j_massengale@...> wrote:
Hi,
the problem with using a probe to adjust the input is that your probe may be way off. Unless you are sure of the probe, it is best to use a known device which a normalizer is made. If you get a probe that was adjusted to use with a 7A22(47pf) you could be the blind leading the blind. LeCroy 9400s and SC502s use 47pf inputs also.
Jerry Massengale
-----Original Message-----
From: HankC <hankc918@...>
To: TekScopes <TekScopes@...>
Sent: Sat, Sep 29, 2012 12:32 pm
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer calibration
The purpose of a normalizer is to ensure that the input C of the plugin is "normal" so it is within range of the compensation adjust of the probes likely to be used with it.
In the end, it really doesn't matter if it's 19, 20, or 21 pf input.
You could use an existing probe as a normalizer as long as you don't move its adjustment.
Then, adjust the C-in of your other scopes for a good sq wave with this probe.
Use the most sensitive V/div but make sure no preamp gets switched in at the more sensitive ranges.
Once done, adjust your other probes to the scope they're being used on.
HankC, Boston
|
OT Automatic night lights
Hi ,
The small patio lites that work off solar cells and lite automatically at dark have a small 5pin IC that I think is a battery charger circuit. It is marked 5259a. Does anyone have a schematic or datasheet?
Jerry Massengale
|
Re: How to determine if the CRT is exhausted?
--- In TekScopes@..., "aobp11" wrote:
>
> Hi Max,
> If the rest of the 'scope is OK, then the 'scope itself is the best environment to test the CRT, isn't it? So how bad is the CRT in ordinary use? I could compare with my 564s.
In ordinary use CRT is good enough, but it cannot reach a brilliance such to cause burnout. Rotating the INTENSITY knob up to approx 1/3 of its? range, the brightness reaches its maximum, then remains substantially unchanged.
A friend of this forum, Chuck Harris, just emailed me that:
?"In non storage mode, the CRT will show low emission by reduced
brightness, and a double hump in brightness as the intensity control
is increased to maximum.
"
This is exactly the behavior I got! The double hump is? almost imperceptible, but it's present. So I have to conclude that my CRT is definitively exhausted....
> Is it irrespective of plugin? Blanking could be faulty in one of the plugins.
Yes, it's the same with any plugin. When doing measurements and checking, I've put the CRT CATHODE SELECTOR in EXT CRT.
I don't think rejuvenation can solve my problem, since the CRT is one of the most important components of a scope. Better I replace the tube.
In this regard, I've found two candidates, at reasonable prices, both used:? one 154-0410-00 (T5640-200) and one 154-0418-00 (T5640-201). The last is the one with major writing speed 100 cm/sec vs. 25 cm/sec for the T5640-200.
The question now is: can I use the T5640-201 in place of the original T5640-200 without modifications in my 564?
This question arises from the fact that the manual says that the tube T5640-201 is planned for model 564 Mod 08, but?I could not find any documentation that talks about a 564 Mod 08!
Do you have some information about it?
Max
|
Re: Normalizer calibration
Hi,
the problem with using a probe to adjust the input is that your probe may be way off. Unless you are sure of the probe, it is best to use a known device which a normalizer is made. If you get a probe that was adjusted to use with a 7A22(47pf) you could be the blind leading the blind. LeCroy 9400s and SC502s use 47pf inputs also.
Jerry Massengale
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: HankC
To: TekScopes
Sent: Sat, Sep 29, 2012 12:32 pm
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Normalizer calibration
?
The purpose of a normalizer is to ensure that the input C of the plugin is "normal" so it is within range of the compensation adjust of the probes likely to be used with it.
In the end, it really doesn't matter if it's 19, 20, or 21 pf input.
You could use an existing probe as a normalizer as long as you don't move its adjustment.
Then, adjust the C-in of your other scopes for a good sq wave with this probe.
Use the most sensitive V/div but make sure no preamp gets switched in at the more sensitive ranges.
Once done, adjust your other probes to the scope they're being used on.
HankC, Boston
|
Re: Collection of old Tektronix scopes
Hello Lennart,
pleased to see that somebody from the G?teborg Radiomuseet is
present here also! I visited around 2006 and still remember that you
also had a spectrum analyzer by Lavoie Labs, I still haven't found
any documantation about this unit.....
Where are these instruments located? I am in Germany......
Regards Jochen DH6FAZ
Am 28.09.2012 12:21, schrieb odenman9:
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Being a member of the Radio Museum in Gothenburg ()
I received an email from a person owning a large
collection of Tektronix oscilloscopes in the 500 series.
The person is now moving to a new location and wants to
get rid of the collection. He hopes to find a person or an
institution that is prepared to take good care of the
instruments.
Unfortunately the Radio Museum has its quota of Tektronix
scopes filled and actually during the last 2 years
scrapped or sold some scopes in that series.
Here are some pictures of the impressive collection
covering almost all models:
If you are interested I can mail the address and telephone
number to you of the owner.
/// Lennart Nilsson
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Re: Tek 7704 Scope Mode Switches Sticking
Common problem with these oldies. Best to
remove the switch bank and you’ll be able to see that there’s a lot
going on mechanically.? Like anything mechanical, clean and lubed is what its
all about.? CAUTION.. try plain hand soap and water first. Strong cleaners
are a disaster for the lettering on all Tek switches and knobs. In my early
days of repairing them I sprayed some common glass cleaner and Presto ! the
letters and numbers on the sweep rate dial was GONE. ARRRGGGGGHHH !! As to
lube, I’ve had good results with watch oil ( NEVER on contacts) on
release mechanisms ( you’ll see them in the switch banks). Some of the
gurus here probably will chime in with their tips and tricks too.. just be
careful not to break any part of the switch mechanisms.
Good luck
?
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-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@...
[mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of tweedradio00
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012
1:18 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] Tek 7704
Scope Mode Switches Sticking
?
?
Hi
I'm new to the Tek group and need some advice from those of you who have
weathered many years of servicing older Tektronix gear. I just bought a Tek
7704 Scope - even after a long rough trip with the shippers it seems to work
reasonably well.
At this point my primary problem is with the VERTICAL and HORIZONTAL MODE
switches. Some of the buttons tend to jamb mechanically - that is, it seems
that pushing a button does not always release the curently selected button.
Is this a common issue? Can anyone recommend a type of lubrication that might
help - is it safe to spray it in the front around the buttons or how is it best
done.
I'm sure this must have come up before but so far I have been unable to find
anything reading the message library.
Thanks
Jim
|
Re: Help I got a Tracking Generator for my Tek 2710 but how do I install it?
Herbert I dont check that account often, I am going to check it now and will reply plus send you my daily email address.
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--- In TekScopes@..., Measurement <measurement@...> wrote:
Hi Robert,
you received my direct mail ????
Herbert
Am 24.09.2012 05:59, schrieb dreadlk:
Hi Herbert
Thanks, I had seen those numbers but I thought they would have a
corresponding long part number like the one I see on Ebay and in the
SV manual for other parts. I was looking through the PDF for it but
never found it, now I know why LOL.
Thanks for the offer Herb I may take you up on it pretty soon, maybe
ask you instead for some photos if possible of how yours are routed so
I can see where to make the bends. For now I think I can just estimate
the amount I will need and buy 25% extra just in case.
BTW any suggestions on a good online place to order the parts? Digikey
or is there some place better?
Thank you
Robert
--- In TekScopes@... <mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>,
Measurement <measurement@> wrote:
Hi,
the parts are named W52 and W53 and W55.
- W55 is solder end to SMB
- W52 SMA-male to N-female
- W53 SMA-male to SMA-male
Would it help, to know the length ???
I can measure in mz 2712 !
Herbert
Am 23.09.2012 21:48, schrieb dreadlk:
For starters I found this on ebay but it looks too short.
<>
<
<>>
I am scouring the 2712 SVC Manual looking for the correct part number
but so far no luck, it is diagramed but the part numbers are not
listed for any of the cables.
--- In TekScopes@...
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>,
"dreadlk" <dreadlk@> wrote:
Thanks for the information, I agree with both of your assessments.
It was easy to find the Cables in a flex format so I went out and
bought some on day one. Now that I read your posts I know it won't
work and my dilemma is that I have no idea where to find the Semi
Rigid versions. I am going to do some searching but I have a
feeling I
am going to need a lot of luck on my side to make this happen. If the
unit will error out it makes little sense for me to proceed further
until I locate these cables so at this point I am going to mark out
the plate for cutting and drilling based on Jims info and then when I
know where to get the needed cables I will start the cutting and
drilling.
If anybody has any of these cables and is willing to sell them
please let me know or if you have any ideas on a source that might
sell them the info would be greatly appreciated.
Robert
KD8MJR
--- In TekScopes@...
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>, "Rich Miller" <av8torrich@>
wrote:
Hello Robert:
With regard to the rigid coax cable used to connect the TG to the
front
panel, I think you are going to want to use this. While at low
frequency
other types of cable may work fine, when you get into microwave
you may run
into a problem with the TG Gain Flatness Normalization. If the
output of the
TG is off by more than +/-3dBm (This is from memory so double
check), it
will show up as a fault when you first attempt to normalize.
Rich, AJ3G
From: TekScopes@...
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:TekScopes@... <mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf
Of dreadlk
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:33 PM
To: TekScopes@...
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Help I got a Tracking Generator for my
Tek 2710 but
how do I install it?
Hi Jim
Thank you so much for the reply. I do have a VR BW board in that
cavity and
I received the TG with no cables at all, I will have to figure
out
how to
obtain the needed parts and where to source them.
I was wondering if flexible cables with SMA and Type N will work
or does it
have to be the rigid stuff? I obtained a copy of the 2712 SV
Manual and am
going to look through it tonight to try and get a better idea of
what I am
dealing with, I want to thank you for your post, it certainly
clarified
things for me, I hope I am up to the task of doing this Job as I
must admit
I am a bit worried about messing up my 2710 it has been
absolutely a
pleasure to use over the years and is in fantastic condition.
Let me ask you Jim is there any chance of having my proverbial
cake and
eating it too?
I mean could I leave in the VR BW board and run cables to the
Back
of the
unit and put the TG in a separate enclosure, kind of like a DIY
2707? I am
just wondering if anybody has ever done that, I would imagine
that
it might
not be practical but I just wanted to get your opinion.
Anyway Jim I am going to take out the VR BW board and see what I
am dealing
with. If you have any suggestions please post them, and thanks so
much for
your help.
Robert
KD8MJR
--- In TekScopes@...
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Jim" <jflan@> wrote:
Hi Robert -
The TG mounts in the cavity on the left side of the analyzer.
This also is
the same cavity which houses the Variable Resolution BW board.
You
can only
use one or the other, not both. It wasn't clear whether you have
the VR BW
board or not.
There are two semi-rigid cables that will need to be made. One
routes the
RF to the front panel and has an SMA on one end and a Type N on
the other.
The other routes the 2nd LO (2 GHz) to the TG. Did you receive
these cables?
The ribbon cable will plug into the main power supply board to
provide the
interface. in fact, I just remembered that one end of the ribbon
cable is
crimped to a IDC connector that is *soldered* to the power supply
board. The
other end uses at typical IDC connector that will plug into the
TG. The 2712
(not 2710) service manual has a block diagram that will aide in
making the
necessary connections. This manual is down loadable from the
Tek.com site
and will be a better reference for what you are wanting to do.
You
will have
some work to do to get your TG up and running. Take your time and
it will go
smoothly.
Good luck.
Jim
WB5KYE
--- In TekScopes@...
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"dreadlk" <dreadlk@> wrote:
I posted about a month ago about searching for an internal
tracking
generator for my 2710 SA and I finally found one from an old
Tektronix
dealer.
Now I have this unit with Id No 119-3889-07 it's in a golden
colored all
metal case with 3 female SMA connectors and a 10 pin 2 row IDC
connector.
Luckily I found several old Mobo serial connectors that are
the right
size but only use 9 of the 10 pins so I removed the wire and made
a 10 wire
straight pin to pin cable from the connector ends.
Now I open up my 2710 to locate grounds and power pins on
this IDC
connector and have a WTF moment. Where the Heck does this
thing go!! I
remember a side section that was free but the unit won't fit and
all the
card slots are used up! Plus its just too big, so I have no clue
how this
fits into a 2710.
I can find nothing on the net about this Option 04 tracking
generator,
it's not even listed in the 2710 service manual but I have seen
several 2710
sold with Tracking Gens built in and the guy who sold it to me
told me it
works with the 2710 Arggggh....
Anybody have any idea what I should do next? I can't even
locate the 10
pin connector that it supposed to plug into much less fit the
unit
into my
2710. Man I hope I did not waste all that money, I am having
serious regrets
now. Sorry if this comes of as a Crazy Rant but I should have
done my
homework before making this purchase, I am upset with myself.
Robert
KD8MJR
|
Re: Help I got a Tracking Generator for my Tek 2710 but how do I install it?
Hi Jim
Thank you for putting up the picture that will come in very handy when I start moving on this project. I am just waiting for the parts to arrive, he sent them by USPS so its going to be a few more days before they arrive.
I am looking forward to taking on this project, it seems like a bit of work but should be very rewarding if it works.
Robert
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--- In TekScopes@..., "Jim" <jflan@...> wrote:
Robert -
The ribbon cable that makes the connection between the power supply board and the TG appears missing. The end that connects to the TG is a standard female IDC ribbon connector. The other end is a board mount IDC connector that is NOT pluggable but soldered to the circuit board. I bought some of these years ago from Berg (I think). I did find some photos of a T&B version (although it is a 20 pin and you need a 10 pin) I placed a picture under the 'PHOTO' section names '2710/11/12 Tracking Generator Cable'.
take care.
Jim
Hi Jim, Rich and Rolynn
I am so sorry I have not been back to reply for almost a week but my Dog got really sick on Sunday and looked like he was not going to make it, so I pretty much dropped everything and took 3 days off from work so I could get him to the Vet so they could figure out what had happened (seems like he contracted some kind of massive cardio infection).
After that he was home on Meds but very sick so I stayed with him during the days and my wife took care of him in the evenings while I slept and then I took over the night shift when she went to bed. He is doing much better now but is still not out of the woods yet.
I wanted you guys to know that I took the advice from Rolynn and purchased an ebay auction supposedly for all the cables for a 27xx. The only problem is that the guy could not guarantee me that the TG cables are in the lot but looking at the pictures I think they are there.
Can you guys take a look and tell me if I got lucky or picked door Number 2 (LOL).
Scroll down to the bottom he has multiple pictures.
I pulled the trigger on this just after the Dog got sick, so I had very little time to really check it out properly but I figured Rolynn knew that the cables where in the pictures.
I will be back soon, but things are still a bit rough because now I have a serious back log at work but I will try to log in again tommorow.
Thanks again for all the help guys.
Robert
KD8MJR
--- In TekScopes@..., "dreadlk" <dreadlk@> wrote:
Rolynn Thank you so very much for that :)
I will be in touch soon.
--- In TekScopes@..., "ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW" <k7dfw@> wrote:
I think my biggest hurdle is going to be getting the proper Semi Rigid cables that are needed I
have no clue where to buy these........
|
David Hess