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Hello,
We just acquired a couple of 465M's ( non working) and would love
to get our hands on a schematic (or schematics) so we can get these
repaired. They appear to have power supply issues, as we have swapped
the modules with a working 465M and both horiz and vert modules work
fine.
We would be willing to copy a manual, pay for schematic copies, or
whatever we can work out.
The BAMA download does not contain schematics.

Thank You
Ms Ashley Hall
Kiss-Electronics
Cornelius, Oregon
W7DUZ

Connected to a nice clean sine wave but pressing 'measure' 'freq'
reports signal is noisy or not periodic. Any ideas? Scope works great
otherwise.
Thanks,
David.

I Havve just aquired a 2465 300MHz scope. When i first power up all
tests pass, but the crt shows a very jagged display (almost as if you
were seeing noise) The display notations of sweep time and v/div are
also very shakey. this is more so on ch 1 & 2 and not as much on ch 3
& 4. over time the focus is lost and the display shifts upwards.
including the notations.

Im currently iin search of a sevice manual but thought id see if i
could get a starting point here.

Thanks for any help.

There is a decent surplus store in southern New Hampshire. Just a block from I-93.



They have a limited selection of older test equipment, and lots of interesting other stuff.

Dave

Gentlemen,

I have a TM506 that works but needs new filter capacitors.
The DC supply gets a lot of ripple when the TM506 is full
of plug-ins, with just a couple of plug-ins it is fine.
If this is if use to you and you want to pick it up in
Manhattan, email me. -kurt

OK... I believe I've got both web and FTP working now.

Thanks to all for your patience, and special thanks to N5ZTW for spotting the fact that the web server had gone flooey.

Happy tweaking.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner & Head Hardware Heavy,
Blue Feather Technologies --
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech do/t c=o=m
"Quid Malmborg in Plano..."

Well, I can't seem to win at the moment.

I've got the FTP server working, but now I seem to have knocked the web server off the air.

I'm working on it. Hope to have it up before too much longer.

Patience appreciated. Thanks.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner & Head Hardware Heavy,
Blue Feather Technologies --
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech do/t c=o=m
"Quid Malmborg in Plano..."

Anybody know if there are any decent surplus stores left in MA? Like where they have Tek or HP gear?

Now that I work there, figured I'd ask.

Also looking for a local place I could buy (and pick up) a 19" rack or two.

Peter

Fellow techies,

I'm happy to report (finally!) that the Blue Feather FTP site has been restored, and is now available as follows.

Site name: ftp.bluefeathertech.com
User ID: ftp
Password: Anything you want to use (though I'd prefer an E-mail address for logging purposes).

There's no special port to worry about, however, I have limited the total number of anonymous logins to 12 at a time, and the total number of logins from any single IP address to two. If there seems to be need to change this in the future, I will.

I'm also still waiting for DVDs from one user (you know who you are) to help me finish my rebuilding efforts, so I can't absolutely guarantee that everything's back. However, I'm pretty sure I've got most of it.

Contributions are welcome, as always. Please enclose such in a ZIPfile, or similar archive, and E-mail attach them to me or let me know where they can be downloaded.

I have also taken some serious anti-loss precautions. The storage array containing the library is mirrored to an entirely separate server, and regular DLT-based backups are taking place.

Thanks to all who helped me rebuild, and to everyone in general for your patience.

Happy tweaking.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Bruce Lane, Owner & Head Hardware Heavy,
Blue Feather Technologies --
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech do/t c=o=m
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped with surreal ports?"

Hi Group.
Anyone that got a service manual for a Sony-Tek 308 data analyzer?

With best regards

Tomas Larsson
TL Engineering & Consultants
Engelbrektsgatan 121
SE 506 39 Bor?s
Sweden

+46 739 932 673




Verus Amicus Est Tamquam Alter Idem

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AVAILABLE: original Tek manuals

Instruction manual, pn 070-0750-00 for 323

Instruction manual, pn 070-2163-00 for 475A

Service manual, pn 070-2162-0000 for 475A

Available for cost of packing and shipping (4th class USPS or your choice)


Contact me offline if interested.

Gary

w5bi@...

--- In TekScopes@..., "Stan & Patricia Griffiths"
<w7ni@...> wrote:

I wrote the following stuff about phosphors in response to question

I

received. I thought some of you guys might get some new info out

of it, so

here it is.



Stan





CRT Phosphors:



Back in the early 60's when I first went to work for Tek, P2 was

considered

the "standard phosphor" for almost all scopes Tek sold. This one

was

considered "easy on the eyes" since it is green and pretty easy to

see in a

well lit room. Later, Tek changed to P31 from P2 for standard. It

was a

new development in phosphors and just as easy on the eyes, but

would not

burn at easily as P2. The color is more bluish-green. So either

P2 or P31

would be a good choice for general purpose use.



Tek offered P11 as an option for people who were taking photographs

of very

fast events that were too fast to catch with the naked eye. The P11
phosphor can be viewed with the naked eye, but the color is not

optimum for

viewing that way, being deep purple. Polaroid film LOVES P11 and

you can

catch fast events on film (if you pick the right kind of film) that

you

could NEVER see. So P11 is kind of special and not the best

choice, unless,

of course, you are into very fast events and taking Polaroid

pictures of the

screen.



P7 is another option that Tek offered. This one is a little

strange in that

as the beam is writing the phosphor (Fluorescence), the color is

blue but

the after-glow (Phosphorescence) is sort of yellow. This phosphor

is handy

when you are sweeping very slowly and you want to see where the

beam has

been for several seconds after it has left that spot. One common P7
application is for CRTs used in heart monitors where a doctor might

want to

see several consecutive "heartbeats" at one time. Another common P7
application is for viewing "slow scan TV" pictures that take 20 or

30

seconds to make one TV frame. You can still see the first part of

the

picture by the time the last part has been written. If you are not

familiar

with slow scan TV, it is a method that ham operators use to pass

still

pictures to each other using very low bandwidth so it can be done

on HF

frequencies that span the world instead of VHF and UHF that are

local only.

You COULD use a P7 for general purposes, too, but I think it burns

sort of

easily.



The P7 phosphor is often used with the yellow or amber CRT filters

because

that filter tends to filter out the blue color of the fluorescence

while

letting the yellow color of the phosphorescence come through just

fine. You

will see P7 phosphors and yellow filters used on early spectrum

analyzers

that are not plugged into storage scopes and do not have digital

storage

capability. Some examples would be 491, 7L12, 7L13, 1L5 3L5, 1L10,

etc.

The idea is the get some of the advantages of CRT storage without

the costs

associated with a real storage scope.

Stan,

P1 was a black and white phosphor. (I think)

P7 was the phosphor in the Hughs MemoScope.

P402 was one of the numbers assigned to the bistable phosphor.

P7 phosphor had huge grains and according to my flaky memory, used
two phosphors for the effect. It was also the least burn resistant.

P11 had the finest grains, P31 was finer grained than P2.

Aluminizing the backside of the phosphor kept the heat spread and
reduced inclination to burning.

Because isolated islands of phosphor were key to bistable storage,
they could not be aluminized and hence, were easily burned.

Joe Rooney

I wrote the following stuff about phosphors in response to question I
received. I thought some of you guys might get some new info out of it, so
here it is.



Stan





CRT Phosphors:



Back in the early 60's when I first went to work for Tek, P2 was considered
the "standard phosphor" for almost all scopes Tek sold. This one was
considered "easy on the eyes" since it is green and pretty easy to see in a
well lit room. Later, Tek changed to P31 from P2 for standard. It was a
new development in phosphors and just as easy on the eyes, but would not
burn at easily as P2. The color is more bluish-green. So either P2 or P31
would be a good choice for general purpose use.



Tek offered P11 as an option for people who were taking photographs of very
fast events that were too fast to catch with the naked eye. The P11
phosphor can be viewed with the naked eye, but the color is not optimum for
viewing that way, being deep purple. Polaroid film LOVES P11 and you can
catch fast events on film (if you pick the right kind of film) that you
could NEVER see. So P11 is kind of special and not the best choice, unless,
of course, you are into very fast events and taking Polaroid pictures of the
screen.



P7 is another option that Tek offered. This one is a little strange in that
as the beam is writing the phosphor (Fluorescence), the color is blue but
the after-glow (Phosphorescence) is sort of yellow. This phosphor is handy
when you are sweeping very slowly and you want to see where the beam has
been for several seconds after it has left that spot. One common P7
application is for CRTs used in heart monitors where a doctor might want to
see several consecutive "heartbeats" at one time. Another common P7
application is for viewing "slow scan TV" pictures that take 20 or 30
seconds to make one TV frame. You can still see the first part of the
picture by the time the last part has been written. If you are not familiar
with slow scan TV, it is a method that ham operators use to pass still
pictures to each other using very low bandwidth so it can be done on HF
frequencies that span the world instead of VHF and UHF that are local only.

You COULD use a P7 for general purposes, too, but I think it burns sort of
easily.



The P7 phosphor is often used with the yellow or amber CRT filters because
that filter tends to filter out the blue color of the fluorescence while
letting the yellow color of the phosphorescence come through just fine. You
will see P7 phosphors and yellow filters used on early spectrum analyzers
that are not plugged into storage scopes and do not have digital storage
capability. Some examples would be 491, 7L12, 7L13, 1L5 3L5, 1L10, etc.
The idea is the get some of the advantages of CRT storage without the costs
associated with a real storage scope.

Thanks for the tip, Ed.

Always corroborate. Tek used specific color-coded wires for the
power supply lines; if "225" doesn't point to red-red-green, the label
is wrong. Or the wire.

Dave Wise

Hi, Gang

I have a 545 (no suffix) scope, and recently had to do some
trouble-shooting. One hint: when measuring d.c. voltages
along the ceramic terminal strip which has the voltages labeled
on the nearby chassis edge, note that the "225V" label
is offset by one position. The label points to a position
on the strip which has a trimmer capacitor connected,
it should point to the adjacent position which has several
white wires with red stripes connected.

I won't tell you how long I searched for spare tubes
associated with the 225V regulator, before I realized
the error. I have since added an arrow with a magic marker
pointing to the correct spot.

73,
Ed Knobloch

I?purchased mine at Qservice
?
qservice@...
?
Bob

If the surge arrestors get a voltage higher than 230V then they are
going to blow the fuse.

Check to see what voltage the surge arrestors get to before the fuse
blows by ramping up the input voltage to the scope using the variac.
You should also see a spark if they are tripping the fuse.

--- In TekScopes@..., "oldtestgear" <philip.parsons@...>
wrote:

So far I have replaced the main PSU capacitors plus the bridge
rectifier and the DC supply started to come up -- then the mains

fuse

blew. After changing the fuse I tried to power it up using a

variac.

Same result at about 100V, a blown fuse. Below ~100V the

unregulated DC

supply looks stable.
There are no signs of damaged components or singed PCB tracks so

my

guess is something is breaking down suddenly and blowing the

fuse.Has

anyone had experience of the transient protectors tripping early

or any

other suggestions to check.

Thanks in advance.

Phil

Hi everyone

I've looked everywhere for a 442 manual and come up empty.

Any ideas?


Thanks.. Tad WA1FQO

Let me guess, the capacitor was a RIFA cap?

Every Tek scope that I have seen and have checked the X class
suppression capacitors on has at least shown fracture marks in the
epoxy coating if it was of the RIFA type. In the worst case they
have burnt out totally! I have also seen problems with these in
Philips scopes

For what it is worth RIFA still appear to make these caps exactly
the same (don't know if they still come with this nice feature).

Farnell sell a large range of X class caps and if you really wanted
to you could probably replace the cap with the same RIFA cap. I
think I would be going for a different option though given the
issues I have seen. The only problem you may have is manufacturers
have tended to be able to reduce the size of these caps which means
for some values getting the same pitch may be hard although I have
had success in finding suitable replacements for all the caps I have
needed to replace.

Cheers,

Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., "tom jobe" <tomjobe@...> wrote:

Hello Gary,
For what it's worth...
That same capacitor, 285-1222-00, was also used in the military

version of

the 2235, It was used directly across the incoming AC lines just

before the

full wave bridge rectifier as part number C904, and it did not

have a

resistor in series with it..
I have a few partially stripped military 2235 mainboards, and they

are all

missing C904, so I would guess that it must have been a component

that had

problems.
Other 22XX scopes I looked at use a .0022 uF (2200 pF) 250 V

capacitor for

C904.
tom jobe...


----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Barrell" <k4oah@...>
To: "Tekscopes" <TekScopes@...>
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2215 Problem

Stefan -

It's not right across the line. It's in series with a 470 ohm

1/2W CC

resistor (which now measures 19 ohms) and looks like a "snubber"

across

the AC line "after" a series inductor. There's an MOV (250VAC)

and a

.001 cap across the line just after the fuse on the "line" side

of the

inductor. This unit is rated for 220 primary power, although

it's never

been used on anything but 120VAC.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



Stefan Trethan wrote:

I'm assuming this was the x-capacitor (across the power line)?

If so the very same thing happened to me and a fluke 8842a. It

had just

come

from singapure, and worked just fine for a few hours

beforehand.

The cap leaked a nasty brown liquid (and acrid smell). It

stained my

fingers

for days. The cap was actually inside a Schaffner brand mains

filter

module.

Anyway, if it was the x-capacitor, you should replace it with

a rated x1

capacitor for mains filter purposes.

ST

On Thu, Sep 18, 2008 at 11:06 PM, Garey Barrell

<k4oah@...>wrote:

I was using my 2215 for an hour or so the other night, and

moved over

to

the desk to look at something else. About 30 minutes later I

heard a

"sizzle - pop" and smoke comes rolling out the back of the

cabinet!

Both sides! I walked over and turned up the Brightness, and

had a

trace. So I shut it off, took it out of the case and did a

close

inspection. Nothing! I couldn't find my small TORX bits

(don't ever

move.......) but everything looked fine. So I turned it back

on,

measured the supply voltages and all were right on..... Scope

seemed to

be operating normally!?!?!

Today, I found my little TORX bits, and removed the inductor

(the

HUUUMMMMMM) from the back panel and lo and behold, on the

main board

underneath the inductor cover was what remained of C926,

fanned out

like

a Rolodex. P/N 285-1222-00, 0.068 uF @ 250 VDC, 20%. This

is a tiny

rectangular 1/4" x 3/4" by 1/2" high epoxy thing. Of course

none of

the

million and a half capacitors that I have will even come

close to

fitting mechanically.

So. Anyone have a source for these things, or perhaps have

an "extra"

one.

help.....

--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Howard,

mine does not do this, starts up perfectly each time. So something is amiss
here.

Mit freundlichen Grü?en, / Best regards,

Florian Diederichsen