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Re: Is anyone out there still repairing refurbishing restoring 500 series oscilloscopes?

 

I was glad to see some 500 interest. I have a 535a, 575, 503, a lack of plugins, and other tek stuff. I used 535a to try and see (barely) the Voyager in outer space slow scan ham radio broadcasts in real time as they came in from JPL amateurs.
I have let the units sit a long time in dehumidified basement. I shall try to slowly wake them up.
Your post has prodded me to do so before too late.

John


Re: Is anyone out there still repairing refurbishing restoring 500 series oscilloscopes?

 

Sorry Charles. I have no handles. If you look at the photos (/g/TekScopes/album?id=299466 ) of my lab you can probably see many of my scopes don¡¯t have handles. I will be keeping my eyes out though.


Re: Is anyone out there still repairing refurbishing restoring 500 series oscilloscopes?

 

I have a 561A, a 561B, an RM561A _and_ a 564... but they all work :) I fixed them up back when Deane Kidd was the main source of NOS parts and they get occasional use to keep the electrolytics reformed.

Although the 561A and the 561B both have the dreaded HV transformer lossy potting problem :(

Meanwhile I could use a couple of carrying handles. Long shot, I know, the leather(?) is almost as old as I am...

-Charles


Re: DSA 602, Still Relevant Today? Untimely response FWIW

 

In the document, two terms that you should know; ¡°real time¡± refers to analog scope (1130x) and ¡°ET¡± refers to equivalent time digitizing scope (1140x). Assume that the compatibility with ET applies DSA60x.

At the time of this document (1985), we had only two major mainframe development projects, the RT and the ET. The DSA60x and 1180x got traction soon after.


Re: DSA 602, Still Relevant Today? Untimely response FWIW

 

The closest to such a document can be found on the last four pages of the 11000-Series Plug-in to Main Frame Interface.
It was the design requirement; however, not everything goes according to plan. The amplifier information is valid. Use caution for the rest of it.


Re: DSA 602, Still Relevant Today? Untimely response FWIW

 

Re: Tek 7000 module modifications for use in the Tek DSA602 /602a ?

Are there any comprehensive write-up's ( Blogs, or other ) about which Tek 7000 modules can be used
in the DSA 602 / 602a ;
& how to modify each of them specifically for this use ?

What a great project !!

thank you,
rick


Re: Is anyone out there still repairing refurbishing restoring 500 series oscilloscopes?

 

Hi group. It seems there is not the interest I expected for small parts to finish repair, refurbishing, and restoring 500 series. My purpose in offering this was to provide very hard to find small items that could easily be sent through the post. Examples: cabinet latches, knobs, resistors, capacitors, hardware, switches, cords, cables, light shields, graticles, stuff like that. I have had interest expressed in all of my tubes, power transformers, crts, plugins and difficult items to pack and ship. I cannot deal in these types of things, that is the reason I quit selling on eBay. However if you need that last little special item to get your project finished I might be able to help you.


Re: 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs

 

The serial number on mine is >160000. As far as I know, it doesn't have other ground contacts like the ones you mention. My 7A26s have leaf springs that are mounted to the PC boards and contact the side covers. I think several of my other plugins have those as well. This 7A18 doesn't have those so maybe that's why these shaft-mounted coil springs are there.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan G via groups.io" <dgajanovic@...>
To: "tekscopes" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2024 5:25:02 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs
These ground spring contacts seem to have an odd way of not showing up
in exploded parts diagrams.

For instance, my 7L14 has a spring washer that presses against the
shouldered hex nut and the aluminum core of the REFERENCE LEVEL ring,
and yet there is no mention of it in the instruction manual. I am fairly
certain that it is factory original.

My 7A18 is a late serial number (>B140000), and has the two pairs of
ground contacts, but no springs or washers under the VOLTS/DIV knobs.
Is yours an early serial number? Does it have the ground contacts?


Dan G



Re: 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs

 

These ground spring contacts seem to have an odd way of not showing up
in exploded parts diagrams.

For instance, my 7L14 has a spring washer that presses against the
shouldered hex nut and the aluminum core of the REFERENCE LEVEL ring,
and yet there is no mention of it in the instruction manual. I am fairly
certain that it is factory original.

My 7A18 is a late serial number (>B140000), and has the two pairs of
ground contacts, but no springs or washers under the VOLTS/DIV knobs.
Is yours an early serial number? Does it have the ground contacts?


Dan G


Re: 11801 NVRAM

 

Sorry for opening this rather old topic. I have the opportunity to buy a CSA803A with an E5322 error code.

I read different reports on this error and the loss of calibration parameters. Can they be recovered by recalibration by the unit itself? Or are they lost forever? What is the current understanding of the community?

Are there differences between e.g. the CSA803C regarding this issue?


Re: 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs

 

Well that might be a plausible reason. I just don't know why it isn't in the manual or why no one seems to have seen this before.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 09:23 AM, n4buq wrote:

I recently purchased a 7A18 with Option 6. For cleaning purposes, I removed
the knobs and faceplate. When I removed the VOLTS/DIV knobs, each had a
washer against the frame with a spring which pushes against the back side of
the knob. I've never seen this arrangement and the manual doesn't show those
parts. Was this ever included from the factory? I doubt it and figure that
someone decided to add those but I'm not sure so thought I'd ask the group.
The main function of these washers and springs may be electrical, rather than
mechanical: to ensure that the VOLTS/DIV shaft and knob aluminum core are
kept grounded at all times.

There should be a pair of grounding contacts (Tek p/n 131-0963-00) attached
to the cam switch housing that keep the AC/GND/DC shaft grounded, but
I don't know if all serial numbers had them (these contacts are not shown in
the exploded parts diagram). Perhaps your unit does not have them,
or perhaps your 7A18 was used in a particularly noisy environment, and those
contacts were insufficient.


Dan G



Re: R7613 to regular 7613 conversion?

 

BTW I wasn't planning on any pictures. I didn't think to take any shots of the teardown or other intermediate steps. You would hardly notice any internal difference from the real thing except for the rear CRT bracket flipped around, and ugly wiring in some spots where I used or made cables that were only just long enough to reach, and I took some shortcuts in the lead routing and dress. Externally, the back looks like a 7603 with the "signals out" option.

I will be putting up some pictures though, related to an issue that this unit has in common with the 7633. Some of you may remember my 7633 problem from a year or two back, where the high voltage was mysteriously crashing after some warmup time. The apparent cause I discovered was interference between the CRT neck mounting hardware and a high voltage lead going into the CRT socket. I cut a notch in the plastic socket cover to relieve the interference and the problem never came back. In fact, I brought out and opened up the 7633 to use as a reference for rewiring this 7613 (it's mostly identical), and it reminded me to check. Sure enough, same issue, where the hot lead is pinched against a steel screw head that's grounded. It hasn't shown any problem, but this time I'll nip it in the bud.

Ed


Re: Softening and stretching Tektronix scope covers

 

On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 05:24 PM, greenboxmaven wrote:


vape exhaust will have? It usually contains polyethylene glycol,
Mayber PEG... because it has badness...but, more likely VG (vegetable glycerin) or PG (propylene glycol) ... because it has less badness.
AFAIK, most of the vaping fluid is these 'carriers' or 'effects producers' (like mist production by VG)... very little is 'flavoring'
Good news is that... although they have very low vapor pressures...the various carriers (PG, VG, PEG) are all highly soluble in water... and more so in warm water.
PG, VG, and PEG are not good solvents for non-polar compounds... like the tars... and other sticky and stinky stuff... that precipitates from cigarette smoke.
PG, VG, and PEG are very soluble in IPA (isopropyl alcohol) , and the cigarette goo is soluble in IP too... but IP dissolves stuff in a scope that you want to keep... like some kinds of transformer/coil varnish.
There is all kinds of nastiness in precipitated cigarette tars... besides stink.
IMO... and AFAIK... long term inhalation... of precipitated tar vapors...due to heat... is a health danger.
If you smell that nasty smell, you are inhaling it.
Doesn't worry me... but, that's me.



--
Roy Thistle


Re: 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs

 

On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 09:23 AM, n4buq wrote:

I recently purchased a 7A18 with Option 6. For cleaning purposes, I removed
the knobs and faceplate. When I removed the VOLTS/DIV knobs, each had a
washer against the frame with a spring which pushes against the back side of
the knob. I've never seen this arrangement and the manual doesn't show those
parts. Was this ever included from the factory? I doubt it and figure that
someone decided to add those but I'm not sure so thought I'd ask the group.
The main function of these washers and springs may be electrical, rather than
mechanical: to ensure that the VOLTS/DIV shaft and knob aluminum core are
kept grounded at all times.

There should be a pair of grounding contacts (Tek p/n 131-0963-00) attached
to the cam switch housing that keep the AC/GND/DC shaft grounded, but
I don't know if all serial numbers had them (these contacts are not shown in
the exploded parts diagram). Perhaps your unit does not have them,
or perhaps your 7A18 was used in a particularly noisy environment, and those
contacts were insufficient.


Dan G


Re: DSA 602, Still Relevant Today? Untimely response FWIW

 

You are right, I am a donkey¡­

Not only works, but quite well, even if it reaches only 500 MHz (-3 dB), but probably it should be calibrated.

Il giorno 15 dic 2024, alle ore 22:34, zenith5106 via groups.io <hahi@...> ha scritto:

On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 06:30 PM, Gianni Becattini wrote:


in the 11403, I could not make it run, because I could not enable the trace
Touch Def Wfm in the top right corner of the display and select compartment (L, C or R).

/H?kan





Re: 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs

 

It sounds like you're describing knobs that go on a 400-series scope (465, 465b, etc.). The 7A18 is a plugin for a 7000-series scope where the numbers are printed on the front plate and the knobs are merely pointers. They're still available as used or NOS so I should be able to replace them.

Thanks
Barry - N4BUQ

I retired years ago, used to repair Tek and HP stuff. Back then I might
have had the parts you need, but that was then.

If you have to cement the part, I think it was a gray knob with a clear
skirt cemented to it. If you can salvage the parts, I've used clear
(not blue or black) PVC pipe cement from your favorite store, you would
have to be very careful with it to not damage the numbers. Another
option is to purchase a solvent cement methylene dichloride, has no
filler. Hope this helps - Jim




Tek 7904A restoration tips?

 

Bonjour ¨¤ tous!

Just received a 7904A, little used in decades. So far fine CRT, all works but scratchy CRT controls and a few switches.

Will CLA them. Seeking advice and tips on typical weak points, e.g. tantalum capacitors.

Finally has anyone tried to reduce the fan speed?

Many thanks,

Have an absolutely fantastic day!

Jon


Re: Softening and stretching Tektronix scope covers

 

I worked for a while at a vintage sound equipment boutique, and can attest that weed leaves a very nasty residue. Spray cleaners containing ammonia are best, and are very effective in getting rid of the stench.? The utter worst I ever had to deal with were Tektronix waveform monitors in TV studios decades ago. I could not stay in the control rooms for more than a couple minutes and felt sick for some time after. The monitor chassis were totally brown, you couldn't even see the tubes light up. That was a good sign of durability and quality of Tektronix. I was never allowed time to give them a bath and dry out before putting them back into the consoles. That was the real world.

?? Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY

On 12/15/24 21:59, ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð via groups.io wrote:
I do know that pot makes a mess of tape transports..leaves a sticky mess everywhere so that vape stuff cannot be much better.....I found out after a friend passed and I was gifted some tape machines....
I still have an old Ampex machine from a studio...beautiful goldish color on the aluminum.....until I washed one of the reels for use a different machine I did not realize how bad......it was bright and shiny......dishwasher did a lovely job!
my Alto Sax and Flute? still have nicotine from all the club work.......they will get a bath on the next overhaul!
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð

On 12/15/24 5:24 PM, greenboxmaven via groups.io wrote:
Thanks, I did have that in mind. I don't think I have anything to worry about with my 555. It came from an estate sale and stunk so bad I had to keep it outside for a month. No question as to why the previous owner was SK! When I give it a bath, the rinse water will look like coffee. It does work to some degree, if it can stand that collection of toxins I doubt anything I might use on the cover is likely to be a problem. Combusted nicotine is horrible enough for equipment, I wonder what effects clouds of vape exhaust will have? It usually contains polyethylene glycol, which condenses on things and is hygroscopic. High voltage flashovers, anyone?

??? Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY







On 12/15/24 13:53, Clark Foley via groups.io wrote:
Be careful with what ever you use as it will transfer to or interact with the instrument (e.g. paint, trim bits, knobs, etc.) that you are covering.











Re: Softening and stretching Tektronix scope covers

 

I do know that pot makes a mess of tape transports..leaves a sticky mess everywhere so that vape stuff cannot be much better.....I found out after a friend passed and I was gifted some tape machines....
I still have an old Ampex machine from a studio...beautiful goldish color on the aluminum.....until I washed one of the reels for use a different machine I did not realize how bad......it was bright and shiny......dishwasher did a lovely job!
my Alto Sax and Flute? still have nicotine from all the club work.......they will get a bath on the next overhaul!
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð

On 12/15/24 5:24 PM, greenboxmaven via groups.io wrote:
Thanks, I did have that in mind. I don't think I have anything to worry about with my 555. It came from an estate sale and stunk so bad I had to keep it outside for a month. No question as to why the previous owner was SK! When I give it a bath, the rinse water will look like coffee. It does work to some degree, if it can stand that collection of toxins I doubt anything I might use on the cover is likely to be a problem. Combusted nicotine is horrible enough for equipment, I wonder what effects clouds of vape exhaust will have? It usually contains polyethylene glycol, which condenses on things and is hygroscopic. High voltage flashovers, anyone?

??? Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY







On 12/15/24 13:53, Clark Foley via groups.io wrote:
Be careful with what ever you use as it will transfer to or interact with the instrument (e.g. paint, trim bits, knobs, etc.) that you are covering.







Re: 7A18 VOLTS/DIV Springs

 

I retired years ago, used to repair Tek and HP stuff. Back then I might have had the parts you need, but that was then.

If you have to cement the part, I think it was a gray knob with a clear skirt cemented to it. If you can salvage the parts, I've used clear (not blue or black) PVC pipe cement from your favorite store, you would have to be very careful with it to not damage the numbers. Another option is to purchase a solvent cement methylene dichloride, has no filler. Hope this helps - Jim