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If your scope does not have the multimeter (e. g. DM43 or 44) on top of the unit, then you should have the metal one. It has two parts; the outer ring advances with each revolution of the inner knob.

I've been working on checking and adjusting a 5111A scope. I'm hoping to use it as the home for a 5L4N. The 5L4N needs some work, and I want to make sure the 5111A is working properly first. I have a

The glue method, wh

The way this works for this particular rear drum is that the two splines drive the drum, regardless of whether it's in delayed sweep or normal sweep mode. Those splines also allow the shaft to be

I may have been too quick to respond here. There's something with a ~1/4" diameter pushed right up against the retaining washer. Your photos don't show what the other end looks like, but it may be the

I believe that some of the 465 models (generally, the ones without digital display/measurement units such as the dm43 or dm44) were "mostly" manufactured with a 10-turn graduated (metal knob) delay

Did the 465 come with a metal delay time position knob on some models and a plastic on others? I see many that have a plastic knob such as the one I was given and see some with a metal one.

All, I think I made a mistake when I sent this already. Sorry if it gets double posted. I am sorry if this has been asked before but my 2753P has a problem when I try and set the SPAN/DIV below

tl;dr: ch1 at least 'ok'; ch2 cr2 on order Welp, as said to begin with I hadn't done all my homework before posting some early results. The various peculiarities of both channels follow the sampler

Removing the retaining washer would not have allowed a fix. It was necessary to remove the front hub from the drum to get to those parts and repair them. I can only presume the drive mechanism in

I don't see anything in your photos that resembles the drive dog that I'm familiar with. In my opinion, you would have been MUCH better off simply removing the retaining washer and not damaging the

Was there nothing left of the OE drive dog?

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Status Update All 10R and 33R resistors replaced on the tube sockets. Unit pretty much calibrated except for the “sampling scope” part. I don’t have one (yet) Due to the nature of the

A cricket here, chirping in. Sorry to hear of the mechanical difficulties. I too remember being completely perplexed the first time I attempted to mechanically take apart a 2247A. Do you have the

One troubleshooting Aid that I made up when working on microwaves & then used for general troubleshooting was an electrical box with a circuit breaker in it. It was made to "industrial" heavy duty

Well still went ahead and fully recapped the power supply but still no change. And in the process managed to break the power switch link rod. How was I supposed to unlink it to get it out of the way I

Thanks Barry. While I’m at it, I’m gonna check the values of all the resistors in there. After all this thing’s been through, that probably won’t hurt….

I was kind of surprised that this came apart as easily as it did. I began to realize that the hub appeared to have a slightly different color than the drum and that started me down the road of using

Glad to see you found the problem. Odd that it needed a resolder but I suppose that happens. I need to take the time to check things more thoroughly but I have other projects that I need to sew up