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Status Update All 10R and 33R resistors replaced on the tube sockets. Unit pretty much calibrated except for the “sampling scope” part. I don’t have one (yet) Due to the nature of the

A cricket here, chirping in. Sorry to hear of the mechanical difficulties. I too remember being completely perplexed the first time I attempted to mechanically take apart a 2247A. Do you have the

One troubleshooting Aid that I made up when working on microwaves & then used for general troubleshooting was an electrical box with a circuit breaker in it. It was made to "industrial" heavy duty

Well still went ahead and fully recapped the power supply but still no change. And in the process managed to break the power switch link rod. How was I supposed to unlink it to get it out of the way I

Thanks Barry. While I’m at it, I’m gonna check the values of all the resistors in there. After all this thing’s been through, that probably won’t hurt….

I was kind of surprised that this came apart as easily as it did. I began to realize that the hub appeared to have a slightly different color than the drum and that started me down the road of using

Glad to see you found the problem. Odd that it needed a resolder but I suppose that happens. I need to take the time to check things more thoroughly but I have other projects that I need to sew up

That looks quite promising, Barry! No it is not what I meant with the "glue method". The glue method is meant to repair a situation where a plastic part that normally is fixed on a corrugated shaft

Mark, All of the electrolytics had been changed already.

First of all, I’d like to thank you for all your great ideas and suggestions: Mark, Barry, Tom, Pete, Eric, Raymond, and all those that I probably unintentionally forgot to mention. I went back to

Stephen, The low value electrolytics in the supply and signal circuits are likely bad. Ones made in the late 60's to early 70's that are axial with a clear jacket, usually Sprague, are commonly bad

Hi all, As mentioned by Dave, fixing something is better then tossing and buying again. It's also good practice for us problem solvers! On the issue of broken interlocks the wife here used to slam

I figured out how to get to the broken parts and here are some pictures: /g/TekScopes/album?id=270912 It turns out that the front part of the drum cam was indeed glued to the drum

n4buq <n4buq@...> added the album 7B53N Rear Drum: Broken Rear Cam Drum --- The following photos have been uploaded to the 7B53N Rear Drum ( /g/TekScopes/album?id=270912

Thanks, Stephen. I hope you find what's giving you the domino effect with yours. Wish could offer some advice. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

I wouldn’t necessarily call that upside down — the plate is still more positive than the cathode. I’d call it level shifted... Cheers Tom Sent from my iThing, so please forgive brevity and

Not sure I follow what you're measuring, but from the schematic, what I see is this (on any of EL84/7189A tubes): All voltages wrt Ground. Pin 3, cathode, -145V. Pin 2, control grid, -151V. Pin 6 or

Thanks, Ben.? I will see what I can do to get the interlock assembly.? Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours!? ? ?Jim?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

Looks like you made some headway while I was writing my post. It still might be worthwhile to do the connection tests with the plastic probe just in case you shake/bump the chassis and the problems