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Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
I am not sure which particular video from Joe Pie.... one is referring to, but most of those that I have watched he is using a collet instead of a chuck which would let you pull the part out to add another feature to the part. A collet is very repeatable unlike a chuck.
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On 11/3/2021 2:13 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
Curious - how does he pull the stock out of the chuck while the lathe |
Re: Replacement 7000 Plugin Guides
Hi Steve,
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You mentioned that you have some plugins that were heavily damaged. Would you happen to have any other parts available? I have a 7B53A that I think I can resurrect but, among some other things that I can probably source (e.g. some knobs, etc.), it needs the X1/X10 button and the associated shaft and extender that mechanically connects it to the switch towards the rear of the plugin. I'm not sure if any of the ones you have are 7B53As and I'd guess that if the plugins are as damaged as you described, that part might not have survived but thought I'd ask. Thanks again, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <n4buq@...> Hi Steve, |
Re: Curve Tracer CRTs
Walter, I had 577 years ago and since 1980s 576 with high current pulser 172? fixture.
As a power electronics designer the 576 was an essential tool. Accumulated a Collection of plug adapters and manuals, also an SCR turnoff test set. The size and point resolution of the CRT is super. One knob was crumbling, but the only fix I had to do. I feel that these classic instruments should be repaired and restored to original condition. Any digital interface will hack parts and I doubt that the result will be as good. Perhaps old CRTs can be restored somehow? Walter what is the CRT failure mode? Bon Soir¨¦e Jon |
Re: tek 2215 trace position issues
If you look through the service manual you find lots of power lines labelled with a suffix, for example at Q736 where the X signal emerges from the sweep board you see +8.6V7 and -8.6V7. There are a lot of these and they are decoupled versions of the +/- 8.6V lines using typically a 10R resistor and a decoupling capacitor. They exist on the other supply voltages as well.
When you accidentally shorted out the main board it is likely that some of these 10R resistors have gone open circuit so even though you have the correct voltage at the PSU you don't have any volts where it matters. Over on the Vintage Wireless Forum you said (I think) that the spot doesn't respond to Ch1 and Ch2 position controls when in XY mode. Without any working circuitry to eliminate I am afraid I can't think of anything apart from a systematic search for missing decoupled supply rails. With good lighting you may be able to spot burned parts visually. Roger |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
If you like Joe's channel you'll probably like Stefan Gotteswinter's channel as well.
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Bruce On 03 November 2021 at 23:45 cheater cheater <cheater00social@...> wrote: |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:
Lovely channel. I subscribed. Looking forward to countless long hours watching him work there. The idea of using a piece of phenolic to back the work piece so it doesn't deflect and make the cut conical is just great. |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
Makes sense! It really looked like he was doing it... probably just a
joke of sorts. On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 10:48 AM Bruce Griffiths <bruce.griffiths@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
he doesn't, it only appear so because the video is edited to shorten it.
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Bruce On 03 November 2021 at 22:13 cheater cheater <cheater00social@...> wrote: |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
Curious - how does he pull the stock out of the chuck while the lathe
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is running? He does that around the two and a half minute mark. On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
The chances of finding anyone having that sort of screw in their portofolio are (very) slim to none, and even if they do you'll probably have to by several hundreds of them...
Solutions that may work for you are allthread with a soldered-on nut and cut a slot in it, or make your own. Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.: |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 5:45 AM stevenhorii <sonodocsch@...> wrote:
I have a small-scale CNC lathe here, but I was hoping to avoid using it for a screw of this size. |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 1:21 AM snapdiode via groups.io
<snapdiode@...> wrote: Buddy, I don't know what your problem is. Obviously you get very upset by questions about screws. Take a hike. WTF. |
Re: Grease for the VOLTS/DIV and the SEC/DIV Controls on TDS Series 310, 320, 340, 350, 382, 420, 430
On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 12:54 AM, Edward Prest wrote:
They are used as lubricating oils... so being an oil, they are somewhat runny... and so these oils are mixed with a thickener to make a lubricating grease. It's the thickeners, and stabilisers... necessary to make the lubricant stay in place, and the oil stay in the grease, that are the devils in the details. I'd speculate that a tiny amount of pure, non-thickened mineral oil (like from a drug store) would be a safe lubricant (but, it may migrate into a plastic... depending on the plastic... and if it does... it may cause problems.) The industrial grease automotive sensor manufacturers used on the plastic composition pots in their sensors might be good. -- Roy Thistle |
Re: Grease for the VOLTS/DIV and the SEC/DIV Controls on TDS Series 310, 320, 340, 350, 382, 420, 430
On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 06:50 AM, Jim Adney wrote:
AFAIK... there is sufficient contact resistance between the wiper and track (at least as the pot is designed, and is new) to displace a thixotropic non-conductive lubricating grease, like a silicone oil thickened with teflon... in such a way as not to affect the contact resistance significantly. I am less sure about a conductive grease.. at least as it consists of a mechanical mixture of a non-conductive grease and conductive particles (like carbon). In such a case, under the shear force of the contact, the conductive grease may be dilatent... and so work to significantly increase contact resistance.... or the conductive particles, on their own, may interfere. -- Roy Thistle |
Re: Beginning Oscilloscope User
JohnEdward,
I bought a 465B new in the early 80's and still have it. It is a wonderful piece of test equipment and is still a good workhorse for many things today. It has a lot of functionality, perhaps a bit more than a beginner can digest initially. Many people have mentioned getting old text books on using oscilloscopes, especially simpler ones. Good advice. W2EAW has great videos and while many of the subjects might be way out for you initially, he has some really good info on how to use a scope correctly. Leave the info on digital scopes for a future date since there is quite a bit of difference between how to use or how to setup a digital scope verses an analog scope. He also has info on many ways you can get tripped up with displays that look right but are actually wrong. Some general advice getting started: Focus your time on the very basics of getting a stable trace(s) on the screen and how to move it around to get it lined up with the grid to make measurements. Learn to use the basic trigger functions, auto and manual triggering. Get familiar with measuring voltage, AC and DC, based on vertical settings and if your probes are X10 hopefully they will auto switch the displays behind the sensitivity knobs. Keep in mind that your Fluke DMM will give you true RMS, many other will show average or RMS, but the scope will show peak to peak AC voltages. Get familiar with understanding how much time is represented with each horizontal division on the screen. Leave the rest of the 100 other things the 465 can do for later once you get comfortable with these basic concepts. One of the secrets to using a scope is to first imagine what you will be looking at or should expect to see and then setup the scope to show it. You can waste a lot of time blindly hunting for an unknown signal. There is no auto setup button on the 465B. Regards |
Re: Looking for fasteners in EU
You might ask this in the model engineering group in groups.io or the
miniature machine tools group also on groups.io. Some of these folks make operational miniature milling machines and those must have a lead screw longer than 20mm (but likely also larger diameter than 1.4 or 1.6mm). When you see what some of these folks do, cutting an M1.4 x 20+mm screw does not seem unreasonable. They might also tell you to try M1.4 and M1.6 dies and thread what you need though I suspect the torque on the stock might be a problem. Steve H. On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 6:02 AM cheater cheater <cheater00social@...> wrote: You linked to the black one which only goes up to 16mm. It doesn't |
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