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Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

Actually, he does.
He uses a collet closer that allows him to do just that :


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

He has a special collet clamping setup, the collet is released by a handle on the left side of the headstock.
Search for quick-release collet spanner.


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

I am not sure which particular video from Joe Pie.... one is referring to, but most of those that I have watched he is using a collet instead of a chuck which would let you pull the part out to add another feature to the part. A collet is very repeatable unlike a chuck.

On 11/3/2021 2:13 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
Curious - how does he pull the stock out of the chuck while the lathe
is running? He does that around the two and a half minute mark.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:
The chances of finding anyone having that sort of screw in their portofolio are (very) slim to none, and even if they do you'll probably have to by several hundreds of them...
Solutions that may work for you are allthread with a soldered-on nut and cut a slot in it, or make your own.
Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:






Re: Replacement 7000 Plugin Guides

 

Hi Steve,

You mentioned that you have some plugins that were heavily damaged. Would you happen to have any other parts available?

I have a 7B53A that I think I can resurrect but, among some other things that I can probably source (e.g. some knobs, etc.), it needs the X1/X10 button and the associated shaft and extender that mechanically connects it to the switch towards the rear of the plugin. I'm not sure if any of the ones you have are 7B53As and I'd guess that if the plugins are as damaged as you described, that part might not have survived but thought I'd ask.

Thanks again,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <n4buq@...>
To: "tekscopes" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 1, 2021 9:07:34 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacement 7000 Plugin Guides
Hi Steve,

Yes, those are what I'm looking for. One of mine is completely missing the
upper oblong-ish part with the four small holes and, without that, I have to
reach in and guide the board in until the other aligning pieces can take over.
I have one or two others where the small "clips" that help hold the board are
broken but that's not quite as much of a problem. If you have one to spare,
I'd really appreciate it. If you have more, I could maybe use one or two more
but don't want to be greedy. I got a working 7A26 from eBay and, while it was
packed very well, it appears to have taken fall somewhere and it cracked that
guide. I think I can glue that one, though, so it isn't that much of a
problem.

I really appreciate that!

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "stevenhorii" <sonodocsch@...>
To: "tekscopes" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 1, 2021 8:54:09 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacement 7000 Plugin Guides
Barry,

If you mean the plastic guide that surrounds the connector, I believe I
have some non-broken ones. I parted out several 7000-series plug-ins that I
bought for parts because it looked like someone had run over them across
the middle.

Let me know and how many. If I have enough, you can have them for the
postage.

Steve Horii

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 08:37 n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:

Anyone know of a source for the plastic guides at the back of a 7000
plugin? I have a few that are broken and would like to get those fixed. I
don't remember where I saw it, but I did see what appeared to be an
"aftermarket" guide that might have been SLT-made (it was a bit translucent
and the edges didn't appear to be as rounded, etc. If someone has made the
STL file, then that might be an option (although a fairly expensive one I'm
afraid).

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ







Re: Curve Tracer CRTs

 

Walter, I had 577 years ago and since 1980s 576 with high current pulser 172? fixture.

As a power electronics designer the 576 was an essential tool.

Accumulated a Collection of plug adapters and manuals, also an SCR turnoff test set.

The size and point resolution of the CRT is super. One knob was crumbling, but the only fix I had to do.

I feel that these classic instruments should be repaired and restored to original condition.

Any digital interface will hack parts and I doubt that the result will be as good.

Perhaps old CRTs can be restored somehow?

Walter what is the CRT failure mode?

Bon Soir¨¦e

Jon


Re: tek 2215 trace position issues

 

If you look through the service manual you find lots of power lines labelled with a suffix, for example at Q736 where the X signal emerges from the sweep board you see +8.6V7 and -8.6V7. There are a lot of these and they are decoupled versions of the +/- 8.6V lines using typically a 10R resistor and a decoupling capacitor. They exist on the other supply voltages as well.

When you accidentally shorted out the main board it is likely that some of these 10R resistors have gone open circuit so even though you have the correct voltage at the PSU you don't have any volts where it matters. Over on the Vintage Wireless Forum you said (I think) that the spot doesn't respond to Ch1 and Ch2 position controls when in XY mode. Without any working circuitry to eliminate I am afraid I can't think of anything apart from a systematic search for missing decoupled supply rails. With good lighting you may be able to spot burned parts visually.

Roger


Re: Curve Tracer CRTs

 

Could you point me to your videos?

-Tom P.


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

If you like Joe's channel you'll probably like Stefan Gotteswinter's channel as well.

Bruce

On 03 November 2021 at 23:45 cheater cheater <cheater00social@...> wrote:


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:

Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:
Lovely channel. I subscribed. Looking forward to countless long hours
watching him work there.

The idea of using a piece of phenolic to back the work piece so it
doesn't deflect and make the cut conical is just great.





Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:

Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:
Lovely channel. I subscribed. Looking forward to countless long hours
watching him work there.

The idea of using a piece of phenolic to back the work piece so it
doesn't deflect and make the cut conical is just great.


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

Makes sense! It really looked like he was doing it... probably just a
joke of sorts.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 10:48 AM Bruce Griffiths
<bruce.griffiths@...> wrote:

he doesn't, it only appear so because the video is edited to shorten it.
Bruce
On 03 November 2021 at 22:13 cheater cheater <cheater00social@...> wrote:


Curious - how does he pull the stock out of the chuck while the lathe
is running? He does that around the two and a half minute mark.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:

The chances of finding anyone having that sort of screw in their portofolio are (very) slim to none, and even if they do you'll probably have to by several hundreds of them...
Solutions that may work for you are allthread with a soldered-on nut and cut a slot in it, or make your own.
Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:











Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

he doesn't, it only appear so because the video is edited to shorten it.
Bruce

On 03 November 2021 at 22:13 cheater cheater <cheater00social@...> wrote:


Curious - how does he pull the stock out of the chuck while the lathe
is running? He does that around the two and a half minute mark.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:

The chances of finding anyone having that sort of screw in their portofolio are (very) slim to none, and even if they do you'll probably have to by several hundreds of them...
Solutions that may work for you are allthread with a soldered-on nut and cut a slot in it, or make your own.
Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:








Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

Curious - how does he pull the stock out of the chuck while the lathe
is running? He does that around the two and a half minute mark.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 9:42 AM Leo Potjewijd <pe1rhx@...> wrote:

The chances of finding anyone having that sort of screw in their portofolio are (very) slim to none, and even if they do you'll probably have to by several hundreds of them...
Solutions that may work for you are allthread with a soldered-on nut and cut a slot in it, or make your own.
Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:





Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

The chances of finding anyone having that sort of screw in their portofolio are (very) slim to none, and even if they do you'll probably have to by several hundreds of them...
Solutions that may work for you are allthread with a soldered-on nut and cut a slot in it, or make your own.
Joe Pieczynski has done a video on how to single-point (!) such small threads on a lathe.:


Re: tek 2215 trace position issues

 

the two spots are the sort of traces from both chanels but as there is no sweep they are not moving tb does nothing nor does the horiz shift!,psu voltages are all ok


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 5:45 AM stevenhorii <sonodocsch@...> wrote:

You might ask this in the model engineering group in groups.io or the
miniature machine tools group also on groups.io.

Some of these folks make operational miniature milling machines and those
must have a lead screw longer than 20mm (but likely also larger diameter
than 1.4 or 1.6mm). When you see what some of these folks do, cutting an
M1.4 x 20+mm screw does not seem unreasonable. They might also tell you to
try M1.4 and M1.6 dies and thread what you need though I suspect the torque
on the stock might be a problem.

Steve H.
I have a small-scale CNC lathe here, but I was hoping to avoid using
it for a screw of this size.


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

On Wed, Nov 3, 2021 at 1:21 AM snapdiode via groups.io
<snapdiode@...> wrote:

Speaking of taking a hint, so far, you've found NO ONE that makes your ridiculous screw size.

Have you considered they might not be made because they're not manufacturable? Have you looked at the aspect ratio?
Buddy, I don't know what your problem is. Obviously you get very upset
by questions about screws. Take a hike. WTF.


Re: Grease for the VOLTS/DIV and the SEC/DIV Controls on TDS Series 310, 320, 340, 350, 382, 420, 430

 

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 12:54 AM, Edward Prest wrote:


White mineral oil (CAS 8042-47-5)

Poly Dimethyl Siloxane (CAS 63148-62-9)
They are used as lubricating oils... so being an oil, they are somewhat runny... and so these oils are mixed with a thickener to make a lubricating grease.
It's the thickeners, and stabilisers... necessary to make the lubricant stay in place, and the oil stay in the grease, that are the devils in the details.
I'd speculate that a tiny amount of pure, non-thickened mineral oil (like from a drug store) would be a safe lubricant (but, it may migrate into a plastic... depending on the plastic... and if it does... it may cause problems.)
The industrial grease automotive sensor manufacturers used on the plastic composition pots in their sensors might be good.

--
Roy Thistle


Re: Grease for the VOLTS/DIV and the SEC/DIV Controls on TDS Series 310, 320, 340, 350, 382, 420, 430

 

On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 06:50 AM, Jim Adney wrote:


Dielectric greases are generally intended as insulators, so I would not go
that direction. The silicone grease would probably be a good lubricant, but
the conductive grease, probably carbon loaded, sounds like the right product.
Use sparingly.
AFAIK... there is sufficient contact resistance between the wiper and track (at least as the pot is designed, and is new) to displace a thixotropic non-conductive lubricating grease, like a silicone oil thickened with teflon... in such a way as not to affect the contact resistance significantly.
I am less sure about a conductive grease.. at least as it consists of a mechanical mixture of a non-conductive grease and conductive particles (like carbon).
In such a case, under the shear force of the contact, the conductive grease may be dilatent... and so work to significantly increase contact resistance.... or the conductive particles, on their own, may interfere.

--
Roy Thistle


Re: Beginning Oscilloscope User

 

JohnEdward,

I bought a 465B new in the early 80's and still have it. It is a wonderful piece of test equipment and is still a good workhorse for many things today. It has a lot of functionality, perhaps a bit more than a beginner can digest initially. Many people have mentioned getting old text books on using oscilloscopes, especially simpler ones. Good advice. W2EAW has great videos and while many of the subjects might be way out for you initially, he has some really good info on how to use a scope correctly. Leave the info on digital scopes for a future date since there is quite a bit of difference between how to use or how to setup a digital scope verses an analog scope. He also has info on many ways you can get tripped up with displays that look right but are actually wrong.

Some general advice getting started:
Focus your time on the very basics of getting a stable trace(s) on the screen and how to move it around to get it lined up with the grid to make measurements.
Learn to use the basic trigger functions, auto and manual triggering.
Get familiar with measuring voltage, AC and DC, based on vertical settings and if your probes are X10 hopefully they will auto switch the displays behind the sensitivity knobs. Keep in mind that your Fluke DMM will give you true RMS, many other will show average or RMS, but the scope will show peak to peak AC voltages.
Get familiar with understanding how much time is represented with each horizontal division on the screen.
Leave the rest of the 100 other things the 465 can do for later once you get comfortable with these basic concepts.

One of the secrets to using a scope is to first imagine what you will be looking at or should expect to see and then setup the scope to show it. You can waste a lot of time blindly hunting for an unknown signal. There is no auto setup button on the 465B.

Regards


Re: Looking for fasteners in EU

 

You might ask this in the model engineering group in groups.io or the
miniature machine tools group also on groups.io.

Some of these folks make operational miniature milling machines and those
must have a lead screw longer than 20mm (but likely also larger diameter
than 1.4 or 1.6mm). When you see what some of these folks do, cutting an
M1.4 x 20+mm screw does not seem unreasonable. They might also tell you to
try M1.4 and M1.6 dies and thread what you need though I suspect the torque
on the stock might be a problem.

Steve H.

On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 6:02 AM cheater cheater <cheater00social@...>
wrote:

You linked to the black one which only goes up to 16mm. It doesn't
matter. It proves nothing. The fact that some fly by night corner shop
in China doesn't have a specific screw doesn't mean someone else won't
have them. I posted here because people are helpful here, so take a
hint from others and stop being negative.

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 12:10 AM snapdiode via groups.io
<snapdiode@...> wrote:

Uh, they make M1.6 up to 20mm. Please learn to click buttons on a
website. <facepalm>

Why do you even ask these outlandish off-topic requests here?