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Roy,

Just checked and it works perfectly. And so this will be my first and last ESR post on TekScopes.

Thanks for the help!


George KD6NEW

On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 08:10 PM, n4buq wrote:

I wondered if the finish might be superior to what some of the local shops
might be providing. For the price difference, it's probably in my best
interest to go with Shapeways.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

Easy enough to ask them if they are using an FDM ( fused deposition modeling) printer, an SLA (Stereolithography) Printer or an SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) printer. If they are using SLA or SLS, then your results should be just as good as SHAPEWAYS. SLA makes nice, accurate, high quality prints, but the selection of materials is limited and may not be as strong as the other methods. FDA printers can print in NYLON or ABS, both of which should be strong enough and durable enough for the task.

Good luck. I'm following your progress and looking forward to seeing the results.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR

I wondered if the finish might be superior to what some of the local shops might be providing. For the price difference, it's probably in my best interest to go with Shapeways.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

This is that odd L-shaped scope probe that is hard-wired into the little low frequency 211 mini-scopes. Hakan confirmed it fits the 211 for sure below B080000, and it may also work in the 212 and 214, although the suffix there is -01 or -02. Anyway, no use to me, it's new and with a peltola jumper cable (no idea why). Contact me off list and I can send it to you. Postage is maybe US$8 in north america. Hopefully it will bring some unit back to life.

Fires burning like crazy up here, so far we are still OK in Kelowna, hoping we don't lose power.
all the best,

walter (walter2 -at- sphere.bc.ca)
sphere research corp.
still lots of great stuff on this page.

Sorry Roy, my topic is not spam. I am relatively new in these forums just
trying to get my 2712 fixed.

Have a good one
Ronan

Hi Glydek:
Apologies ... must have missed the notification. (Your in now.)
PM if problems.
Great! Look'n forward to your PCB!


--
Roy Thistle

On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 03:08 PM, Siggi wrote:

Note that Shapeways uses an SLS process which produces parts with great
strength and very good dimensional accuracy. This may or may not matter for
your part(s) but the quality and strength and flexibility of the parts I've
had them print is much better than what consumer FDM printers produce.

The SLS system produces better prints by far, SLS delivers near molded quality parts.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR

Those Surplus Sales prices are not practical for hobbyists, especially down here in Australia. I will post the schematic of my hack later today. It has the advantage of not requiring any alteration to the scope and if you have a reasonably stocked junk box, should cost nothing.

Morris

My 2465B has been sitting on the shelf for a few months. I notice when I fired it up today that the horizontal sweep is slow, by that I mean that the
calibrator square wave does not line up with the screen scale lines. It sweep starts out on the left correct but by the time it reaches the right side, it is off about 1/2 cm.
I checked the calibrator output on another scope and it is correct. The Delta T measurement shows that the calibrator timing is correct, but it just doesn't line up with the screen scale. Same for B sweep.

Could this be a screwdriver/pot adjustment (too good to be true Im sure), or some software calibration? I have maint manual which seems to reference R860 for horizontal gain, but discusses a CAL 01 procedure in detail, more detail than I can follow.

Any one else have this problem?

On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 2:53 PM n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:

Cost for plastic, including shipping and fees, was $0.70 more than what I
was quoted by the local printing shop that I'd checked.

Note that Shapeways uses an SLS process which produces parts with great
strength and very good dimensional accuracy. This may or may not matter for
your part(s) but the quality and strength and flexibility of the parts I've
had them print is much better than what consumer FDM printers produce.

My fav:
EDS 88A

Siggi,

I connected via another authentication provider and submitted my design. Cost for plastic, including shipping and fees, was $0.70 more than what I was quoted by the local printing shop that I'd checked. Of course, I could have it printed in gold but that seems to drive the cost up so I'll probably stick with plastic.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

Congratulations.? I'm looking for one, as well if anyone happens to come across one at a reasonable price point.?


Sincerely,

Christopher Juried

Juried Engineering - Brand Name Electronic components and supplies
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Juried Engineering - Brand Name Electronic components and supplies

Juried Engineering is a small business, specializing in Authentic, Genuine, Brand Name Electronic Components and Education. We support the do-it-yourself (DIY)/do-it-with-others (DIWO) Maker Movements, Open-source and Commercial Industry. All orders
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FCC Licensed RF Coordinator

Audio Engineering Society (AES)?Member



On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 2:06 PM, sweetbeats<torridheatstudios@...> wrote: For what it’s worth, I bought a P6601 temp probe…it wasn’t cheap, but I’m pleased with the purchase…$80 shipped for the probe brand new in sealed package with all original accessories and manual.

Roy,

I applied for membership over a month ago and it has not been approved. If possible I would love to join.

BTW, I rolled my own ESR as well.





I’m currently working on a PCB using KICAD. I’ll publish and share when it’s done.

Thanks,

George KD6NEW

For what it’s worth, I bought a P6601 temp probe…it wasn’t cheap, but I’m pleased with the purchase…$80 shipped for the probe brand new in sealed package with all original accessories and manual.

Hi Ronan:
Hi All:
There is a groups.io group at:
/g/ESR-Meters-North
completely devoted to ESR/Capacitance meters.
Dennis T. asked someone to create such a group... and to try and help out... I did.. and I moderate it.
And, I note that hardly anyone (no one) has recently posted to it.
And yet, people here on TekScopes want to talk about ESR meters... apparently.
So and yet, once again...ESR meters... posted to death, here on TekScopes... and anywhere else there are a few bytes of free space... starts up again!
To me this is spam.

--
Roy Thistle

Great suggestions all! Anyone used these from Bob Parker in Australia?



I do prefer the SMD tweezer type, I suppose I could make some various
adapters/probes.

Appreciated
R

I still prefer the old original stuff as long as I can obtain it as I feel great respect for those people who have designed and made it. And it's fun watching it in operation!
Anyway, the thought of having a substitude if needed is a good feeling, too!
Joe

Thanks for your research, Jeff. I archived those auction pages since eBay will eventually delete them.

Dave Wise

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jeff Dutky via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 4:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Binding Post Thumb/Head Nut Replacements

I have added another picture to the album (/g/TekScopes/album?id=266234</g/TekScopes/album?id=266234>) showing all six candidates I have tried for replacing missing thumb nuts on 500-series scopes and plug-ins.

The picture shows seven nuts, labeled A-G. The nuts are:

A: An original Tek thumb nut, full height, as would be used on a 500-series scope, plug-in, or binding post adapter for a 465 or 475.
B: "316 Stainless Steel Knurled Thumb Nut 1/4-28 Thread" from eBay (<>
C: "M5 Precision Knurled Thumb Nut" from eBay (<>)
D: "M5 Steel Leveling Knurled Thumb Nut" from eBay (<>)
E: "OEM by Bosch 50534 1/4-28 Knurled Steel Nuts" from eBay (<>)
F: "1/4-28 Internal Wrenching Allen Nut Alloy Steel Black" from eBay (<>)
G: "1/4-28x7.5mm(L)x10mm(OD) Metric Threaded Brass Knurl Round Insert Nuts" from eBay (<>)

My evaluations are:

(A) are, of course, practically perfect in all particulars. I'm still surprised and saddened that I can't find a source for them. Were these custom made for or by Tek?

(B) has very pleasant diamond knurling, at least as fine as what Tek used, but is about 1.5X the outer diameter and about 3X as tall. It is only threaded half way through on the flat end, which makes it hard to use the female banana jack with this nut in place. While it is larger in diameter than the Tek part, it looks like it will still leave enough clearance on something like a CA or D plug-in to use the UHF or BNC connectors, but it may be too large for use on some TM500, 5000-series, or 7000-series plug-ins.

(C) is the wrong thread, closed at one end, and too short, so it will not properly clamp a wire inserted through the binding post. The knurling is very nice. It's a shame that these are otherwise unsuitable.

(D) is the wrong thread, and the outer diameter is much too large for even the relatively roomy 500-series plug-ins. The nut is also about 1.5X the height of the Tek part. The knurling is coarser than the Tek part, and is not diamond knurling, but I think it's still pleasant. They are entirely unsuitable to the task.

(E) is the same outer diameter as (B) but only slightly taller than the Tek nut. The knurling is much coarser than either (B) or the Tek part. Like (B) this seems to leave enough room for the probe inputs on 500-series plug-ins, but may be too large for some TM500, 5000-series, or 7000-series plug-ins.

(F) is almost perfect; only slightly taller than the Tek part, it does not interfere with the use of banana plugs, and looks very nice on a scope or plug-in. The knurling, while not diamond, is very fine and pleasing. I liked these so much that I ordered several more bags of them in case of future need.

(G) is slightly shorter than the Tek part, which means that it leaves a little bit of the threaded shaft/banana jack cylinder exposed to damage. The brass doesn't look nearly as odd on a scope or plug-in as I feared it would, and even though the knurling is very coarse, it still feels nice on the fingers. These have the singular advantage of being very inexpensive (I got 15 pieces for under $9, and could probably have paid even less if I were willing to buy larger quantities).

(F) and (G) are my favorites, but (B) and (E) would do in a pinch.

-- Jeff Dutky

On 2021-07-22, at 16:40, Carsten Bormann <cabocabo@...> wrote:

But I was recommending the — harder to get — MS8911 anyway :-)

Actually, no longer harder to get at all:



Grü?e, Carsten

(Blatant affiliate link again, because that’s what my system gives me…)