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Colin, Some of the TM500 plugins had notoriously unreliable IC sockets. I would certainly remove the socketed ICs, clean pins and see if anything improves. Several people have commented that the

I have a DM502 which isn't working correctly. I have checked the power supply voltages at +5V, and +/- 12V and they are within spec. I have also adjusted the clock frequency to 20.48 kHz and that is

Looking at the datasheets these devices appear the be the same, am I missing something, or was it just a case of the MCM68766 superseding the MCM68764? Thanks David

Hi group Just a success story with a very minor repair and hint to others later: Today fixed two 602's with SAME fault (no spot, no HV) - fuse F217 had blown. Reason for blown fuse was C216 and/or

Showed up on the local Craigslist. I'm not the seller. I'd take it myself but I already have too many old Tek scopes.

Greetings, on pin removal tools, I have a box full of old telescopic TV and radio antennas collected over the years and another box of ones that have been taken apart and cut into various lengths over

Hi, Here's a possible pin removal tool solution: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pin+removal+tool&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 You're most welcome!

the (F) suffix for CRTs always indicates a Flat Face. a 5UP1 has a spherical face, but a 5UP1(F) is flat (these tubes only come from Japan, the US makers did not offer this variation). I have never

A public thank you for all the work you have put into this, Monty. Will contact you directly to progress things. DaveB, NZ

The behaviour is decidedly odd, when it does POST correctly, the digital section works for a time then crashes so none of the mode controls work and the OSD disappears. Whilst researching, I found

It does appear not to be the ROMs after all, they all read and verify correctly for rthe -01 revision.

Thanks Michael, Albert. Michael, the data sheets for this tube do indicate that there are different phosphor options available for different writing speeds so I think that the speed is defined by the

At the CRT page Sphere often mentions flat face for 5xxx(F) tubes. In one case, 5UP1(F), the description explicitly states "Electrostatic CRT with flat face (F)". Albert

Please don't use a Philips screwdriver on any Tektronix equipment - they are all Pozidriv head screws. There's a massive difference: the geometry of the heads and a Philips screwdriver will cam out

I was hoping I'd be able to remove the Main board without removing the CRT, but the only destructions start with "CRT Replacement" My efforts are currently thwarted by the rear screw holding the

I think that I read somewhere that this indicates the write speed of the phosphor. S for slow and F for fast. This may not be accurate. -- Michael Lynch Dardanelle, Arkansas

Or a ham-fisted Jim Ford with some oversized wire cutters hacking around. Just sayin'. Jim

Thanks, Egge. It's been over 3 years since I messed with the benchtop controller, so I don't recall the P/N I used to replace the original module. I'm not a fan of Dallas Semiconductor or Maxim

Although a slightly off topic subject nothing better to ask a scope group this question. In the process of mentoring a young individual with regards to basic electronics I dug out an old Heathkit

If you don't have any spare antennas, and the neighbors' cars don't have any either, then a good hobby shop has brass and aluminum stock, perhaps steel as well, of various fractional inch