Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Here you go!
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On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote: okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've obviously missed something!
First off, am I right in that:
a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a ground pin in the process.
b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.
c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the ground pin by somehow re-soldering it
d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure it to the PCB.
If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?
BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is very true in cases like this!
Adrian
On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the outside.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:
After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end of the extender.
Jophn
On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on
the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.
|
I understand Harvey how much work these SALES are. Yes, I also bought couple old scopes that are not gonna work as once intended, but it is fun to have them display something and show people that next to Tektronix and some new scope from today's. Most people have their mouth open wide, when they learn something like that, but if I can convert one soul from phone browsing zombies to electronics, I served my time on this planet well! Have a great weekend! Tony
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On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 11:45 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: On Fri, 3 May 2019 09:52:50 -0500, you wrote:
Harvey, I need to visit you one day, before the sales you go to, so I can find me some of these DEALS! It's fun to, it is like a "BOX OF CHOCOLATES, you never know what you gonna
get". Hamfests. Mostly hamfests. You have to go to a lot, and you need to see if there are any electronics surplus stores near you. You will likely go to quite a few such places before you find much. You're looking at about fifteen years or so of collecting, and some things were definitely a "you had to be there, at that time, otherwise no..." kind of deal.
Bear in mind this, as well. I've got some things I bought that can't be fixed, or if they are to be fixed, I'm going to have to dump some money into them because of either special parts or amount of parts to be replaced.
Some of these things need a lot of work to get back to good shape, cleaning, testing, calibration.
It's not all deals. I've seen stuff that was really nice, and that I'd like to have, but were so overpriced as to be silly. From what I can guess, they went home unbought, too....
You hear about the bargains and lucky finds here. Go back and read some of the archives and you'll find things that just didn't do all that well.
Harvey
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:48 AM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:
I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at Dayton a couple years back. It was functional, just needed a battery pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.
The TDs were, miraculously, fine. Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement for.
My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly in place. I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories for it and a lid as well. Ditto with the 1503. Even though the 1503 is made for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's far more difficult to damage.
I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so I know the feeling. It seems to work perfectly except no pods. Oh well. Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too.
The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and 1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as the output (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a step riding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step, not a sine flavored pulse.
Harvey
The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts are around 3X. Nothing like an excuse to spend money.
Paul
On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:
Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going
to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't
get
toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around one of the leads. I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a
few
problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.
It may have had the bad HV board.
Harvey
The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so replacing that might help a bit too.
Paul
On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:
After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to
find
it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.
This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by
having
lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV
transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see
the
expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be
OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and controls with no change, so it has to be on the board. I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that
had
cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC, microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the
bad
capacitors.
I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.
Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033 at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V. It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower
voltages
and leaky at higher ones.
!DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've obviously missed something!
First off, am I right in that:
a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a ground pin in the process.
b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.
c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the ground pin by somehow re-soldering it
d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure it to the PCB.
If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?
BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is very true in cases like this!
Adrian
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On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote: Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the outside.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:
After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end of the extender.
Jophn
On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
|
Re: Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual
Quick update:
I temporarily swapped U300 (Ch3+4) in from one of my other scopes and that solved the problem of Ch3 not working, so I will need a 155-0238-00. Since I am in Spain, I will have a look at Qservice for that.
While both scopes are open, I will see if swapping U400 (Channel switch for Ch1,2,3,4) will affect the calibration issues.
To be continued,
Un saludo,
Leo
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Re: Things not clear to me in the 2465 calibration manual
Hi Chuck,
thanks for clearing more of the process to me. At the moment there is some progress, but not yet results...
I now have a working (modified) PG506 and that makes going through the motions a whole lot easier! It is modified in a sense, it has an extra switch afterwards mounted on the front that uses an internal jumper function, so instead of giving the pulsed signal, it can output a DC voltage of the set value. I checked the DC values I need for calibration with my HP 3457A, while the pulsed values check out on both my TDS540B and another 2465B I have, and they are spot on.
For now -although it looks as if the calibration was successful- I found a few problems I need to solve first:
- After a Cal2 calibration ALL values shown on all channels (but Ch3) are about 7% higher than they should be;
- I found -while checking all V/Div settings on all inputs- that Ch3 is actually dead, I only see spikes where the flanks of the signal should be, so I will check U300 for that. I guess Tek just assumes the simple amplitude switch on Ch3 and Ch4 and thats why they do not include it extensively in the calibration, only in Cal3.
- Since doing a Cal2 using the PG506 is so much easier, I found that if I put the Ch1 Var back to detent before step 'H', I always get a Limit error on step 113, while when I leave the Var untouched, step 113 will pass?? This should be some indicator where to look now, but I should study the schematics more first.
To be continued,
Un saludo,
Leo
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the outside.
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On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:
After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end of the extender.
Jophn
On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
|
Re: [OT] Where to get glue in Austria? Was: Best glue to repair lifted trace?
I'm looking for a place in Austria. The price isn't too expensive on the Loctite. But the shipping from Rapid is 2x the price of the glue, which makes it prohibitive. The shipping from r-g which is not in Austria is 10 euro which still isn't good.
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On Sat, 4 May 2019, 04:27 stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@... wrote: You don't want to buy the good stuff anyway, like Loctite 9492, you'll say it's too expensive.
R&G has decent regular temperature epoxy:
And remember: The bigger the gob the better the job.
ST
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 1:33 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
Does anyone know a good place in Austria to get high temperature epoxy for gluing down lifted traces? I would appreciate that. A product available on German Amazon would be good too.
Thanks
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 11:01 PM Szabolcs Szigeti <szigiszabolcs@...> wrote:
Hi,
You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one:
.
You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure. I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when heated
during soldering.
Szabolcs
cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt ¨ªrta (id?pont: 2019. m¨¢j. 3.,
P,
16:21):
Thanks for the ideas.
Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue
it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there,
as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?
On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io
<the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is
still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket
for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will
have
to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so
the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder
on
the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than
that?
Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it
seems to
stand up well to heat.
|
On Fri, 3 May 2019 09:52:50 -0500, you wrote: Harvey, I need to visit you one day, before the sales you go to, so I can find me some of these DEALS! It's fun to, it is like a "BOX OF CHOCOLATES, you never know what you gonna get". Hamfests. Mostly hamfests. You have to go to a lot, and you need to see if there are any electronics surplus stores near you. You will likely go to quite a few such places before you find much. You're looking at about fifteen years or so of collecting, and some things were definitely a "you had to be there, at that time, otherwise no..." kind of deal. Bear in mind this, as well. I've got some things I bought that can't be fixed, or if they are to be fixed, I'm going to have to dump some money into them because of either special parts or amount of parts to be replaced. Some of these things need a lot of work to get back to good shape, cleaning, testing, calibration. It's not all deals. I've seen stuff that was really nice, and that I'd like to have, but were so overpriced as to be silly. From what I can guess, they went home unbought, too.... You hear about the bargains and lucky finds here. Go back and read some of the archives and you'll find things that just didn't do all that well. Harvey
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:48 AM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:
I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at Dayton a couple years back. It was functional, just needed a battery pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.
The TDs were, miraculously, fine. Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement for.
My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly in place. I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories for it and a lid as well. Ditto with the 1503. Even though the 1503 is made for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's far more difficult to damage.
I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so I know the feeling. It seems to work perfectly except no pods. Oh well. Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too.
The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and 1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as the output (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a step riding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step, not a sine flavored pulse.
Harvey
The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts are around 3X. Nothing like an excuse to spend money.
Paul
On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:
Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just going
to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't get toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around one of the leads. I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a few problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.
It may have had the bad HV board.
Harvey
The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so replacing that might help a bit too.
Paul
On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:
On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:
After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to find it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.
This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by having lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV
transformer
is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see the expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be
OK,
but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and controls with no change, so it has to be on the board. I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that had cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC, microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the bad capacitors.
I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.
Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033 at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V. It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower voltages and leaky at higher ones.
!DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!
|
Re: [OT] Where to get glue in Austria? Was: Best glue to repair lifted trace?
You don't want to buy the good stuff anyway, like Loctite 9492, you'll say it's too expensive.
R&G has decent regular temperature epoxy:
And remember: The bigger the gob the better the job.
ST
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Show quoted text
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 1:33 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: Does anyone know a good place in Austria to get high temperature epoxy for gluing down lifted traces? I would appreciate that. A product available on German Amazon would be good too.
Thanks
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 11:01 PM Szabolcs Szigeti <szigiszabolcs@...> wrote:
Hi,
You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one:
.
You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure. I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when heated during soldering.
Szabolcs
cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt ¨ªrta (id?pont: 2019. m¨¢j. 3., P,
16:21):
Thanks for the ideas.
Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?
On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote:
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is
still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket
for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have
to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so
the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder
on
the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than
that?
Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it
seems to
stand up well to heat.
|
Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
If you go with the 7000 series mainframe, I'd recommend the 7A26 and 7A22 plugins as primary. The 7A26 for frequencies above 1 MHz, and the 7A22 for low amplitude. the 7A22 has sensitivity down to 10uV/div, and switch selectable high pass and low pass filters for various freqs. It's been invaluable to me working with low level audio in a system with lots of high freq digital noise all over.
The 7A13 is great for measuring AC signals accurately or for high freq signals down to 1 mV/div but for audio work, you are generally interested in knowing a voltage within 0.1 db than 0.1% voltage accuracy.
I take the vertical output from the 7000 mainframe into a Hantek digital scope to freeze a signal trace and store to a USB thumb drive for transfer to a computer for documentation. In my application, the Hantek picks up so much digital noise to be worthless viewing even high level signals without filtering through the 7A22 first.
I'd recommend an AN873 DMM, Digital Multimeter. $30 on Amazon, and specs as good as the Fluke 77-V, $372. The two I have were both within the 0.05% spec at 10V and 1V DC. As well as AC and DC volts and current and ohms, it also measures frequency, capacitance, and temperature. The AC voltage measurement is true RMS, but dies rapidly above 2 kHz. Plenty good enough to measure AC or DC volts applied to a scope input to verify scope basic accuracy.
John
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On 5/3/2019 7:39 AM, Harvey White wrote: On Thu, 2 May 2019 19:59:08 -0400, you wrote:
Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications in order of priority are:
1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low frequencies. I occasionally end up in solid state land but have had luck isolating a misbehaving component with old time techniques. 2. vintage radio repair
So, very basic stuff where the exacting accuracy of the oscilloscope may not be necessary. But I'd like for them to be the ballpark. Ballpark you can get without special equipment. DMM calibration is something else, but there are 10 volt very accurate references available. It's when you star looking at 4 1/2 digits and up where things start to get tricky with the reference. That's also just DC volts, AC, ohms, and current are separate matters. For what you're looking at, you would like to have a 100 Mhz scope, at least dual channels. If you're doing audio and you want to start poking around audio preamps, you'd want a fairly sensitive scope to match the expected signal levels. 5 mv/div may be too little. For portable scopes, the 465 would do well. If you want digital as an add-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a 468 would work well. IF you want a 7000 series scope, then a 7603 would do well, 7B53 plugin for sweep, 7A26 (two of them) gives you 4 channels, a pair of 7A18's would give you 75 Mhz bandwidth, which would be good enough, although I'd go for the 7A26 if you get another scope frame. You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readout one), and the 7A22. Both are differential, have some good low ends for input ranges, and may be more of what you want for debugging preamps. almost any 10x probe with a 1meg input match on the plugin would work. If you care to, the 7704 is a 200 Mhz bandwidth scope, and would work well with the same plugins. For specialized test equipment, the SG502 is an ultra low distortion signal generator module, and the AA501 or AA5001 is a distortion analyzer. Bear in mind that audio enthusiasts have bid up the prices on these, because price is no object. Nice to have, though. a good 4 1/2 digit meter would help, you'd like the full range of AC, DC, AC current (could be useful) and DC current. Harvey
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 7:27 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:
Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ? I think it has something to do with calibration....
On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers < c.sawyers@...> wrote:
And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me ...
David I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to find an SG504 without head that is less than stupid money ;-)
Craig
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end of the extender.
Jophn
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On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
|
Seeking non Tektronix manual
Greetings,
I stumbled over a little ITC Instruments SA1000 RF spectrum analyzer at the local surplus store. Literally, it was in the aisle and I almost tripped over it!
The thing basically appears to work.
I did a reasonable search of the internet and while I did find other examples of this little instrument I did not find any on-line manuals.
Does anyone among our illustrious group have an operator¡¯s and/or service manual for this spectrum analyzer who would consider any of the following possibilities:
1: Give it to me for the cost of postage and a small gratuity.
2: Sell it to me for a modest amount and the cost of postage.
3: Consider just giving it to me as a gesture of good will which I will pay forward at a latter date.
4: Make a quality copy of the manual for the cost of postage and a small gratuity.
5: Loan it to me so I can make a quality copy and then return it safely for the cost of postage and a small gratuity.
6: Create a PDF scan and email me a copy of the file for a small gratuity.
Thanks for reading this message and any help someone is able to provide.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Would an epoxy glue be suitable if it lists, as one of its applications, gluing down heatsinks? Thanks
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On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 1:25 AM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks, that's really kind of you. I'm afraid the shipping from the US might be very expensive though!
Does anyone know a good place to buy suitable epoxy in Austria? It seems I can't find anything...
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 12:46 AM J. L. Trantham <jltran@...> wrote:
Oops.
That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.
Joe
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Stefan,
I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.
I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.
You can check it out here:
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Joe
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Epoxy would be much better.
Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA.
With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break.
ST
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
|
[OT] Where to get glue in Austria? Was: Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Does anyone know a good place in Austria to get high temperature epoxy for gluing down lifted traces? I would appreciate that. A product available on German Amazon would be good too. Thanks On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 11:01 PM Szabolcs Szigeti <szigiszabolcs@...> wrote: Hi,
You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one: . You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure. I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when heated during soldering.
Szabolcs
cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt ¨ªrta (id?pont: 2019. m¨¢j. 3., P, 16:21):
Thanks for the ideas.
Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?
On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote:
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
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Re: Calibration and full checkout needed - Tek 7000 series
On Fri, 03 May 2019 09:39:59 -0700, you wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 04:39 PM, Harvey White wrote:
If you want digital as an add-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a 468 would work well.
As Harvey says, a 465 would be a good analog choice. The 468 not only is an improved 465 (actually, a 465B), but it adds a digital mode. Depending on the frequencies involved in your "vintage radio repair", you have to be aware of the limited digital BW of the 468. It's nowhere near the analog BW of 100 MHz, more like 10 MHz max. Pretty much 10 Mhz. In this scope, you use the analog part for repetitive signals that are (as a rough guess) 60 or so Hz in repetition rate or better. You use the digital part for single shot events as long as they're not too fast (see 10 Mhz bandwidth limit). Between the two, you keep compromizing. Digital mode? Power supplies coming up to full voltage and watching a shutdown circuit. One shot malfunctions if you can trigger on it. infrequent events (like less that 60 Hz, anything that happens once and you hope to be lucky enough to catch it). Is the digital scope the end all of digital scopes? Not by a long shot. Is the analog scope the last word? Nope, but it's a good scope. The plus on this one is that the digital and analog sections are almost completely separate, in that you're not digitizing a waveform and then calling it "analog". Past a certain point, the digital section takes over, but the analog display is exactly that, an analog display.
You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readout one), and the 7A22.
Most of the mechanical readout 7A13's have (had) problems with the counter mechanism. Also, it contains relays that tend to have problems. These are a bit difficult to find. The max. sensitivity of the 7A13 is 100 uV / div.
I never got any of the mechanical ones, I always liked the digital readout ones. Especially for working on audio preamps, the 7A22 is a nice choice. Not only is its max. sensitivity 10 uV / div, it also has individual low pass / high pass settings, a must for the most sensitive V / div settings. Yep, one reason I like that one. Be aware that especially the 7A22 has limited maximum safe input voltage at the most sensitive settings. Also, working on tube circuits isn't safe with all input sensitivities for the 7A13. Quite true, hence the comment about "preamp" circuits. Still not a good idea to put a voltage from the plate of a tube into one of these amplifiers, not without reading the specs. Nothing is perfect here. but there are some decent approximations... Harvey Raymond
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Thanks, that's really kind of you. I'm afraid the shipping from the US might be very expensive though!
Does anyone know a good place to buy suitable epoxy in Austria? It seems I can't find anything...
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On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 12:46 AM J. L. Trantham <jltran@...> wrote: Oops.
That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.
Joe
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Stefan,
I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.
I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.
You can check it out here:
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Joe
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Epoxy would be much better.
Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA.
With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break.
ST
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Oops.
That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.
Joe
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace? Stefan, I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board. I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly. You can check it out here: Hope this helps. Good luck. Joe -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace? Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Stefan,
I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.
I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.
You can check it out here:
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Joe
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Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace? Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
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Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Hi,
You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one: . You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure. I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when heated during soldering.
Szabolcs
cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt ¨ªrta (id?pont: 2019. m¨¢j. 3., P, 16:21):
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Thanks for the ideas.
Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?
On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote:
On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
|
Re: [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?
Cheeter Wrote: "I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down." I do understand.? But I think you will eventually want to solder on this pad.? I always plan ahead for that.? I would press the pad into place, add a jumper wire along the pad trace to a nearby solid pad, then embed the entire length in epoxy.
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On Friday, May 3, 2019, 02:31:57 PM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io <machineguy59@...> wrote: ? I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment.
I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue. I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue. I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down. ? ? On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
? Thanks for the ideas.
Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?
On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote:
On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
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