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okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

On Fri, 3 May 2019 09:52:50 -0500, you wrote:

Harvey, I need to visit you one day, before the sales you go to, so I can
find me some of these DEALS!
It's fun to, it is like a "BOX OF CHOCOLATES, you never know what you

gonna

get".

Hamfests. Mostly hamfests. You have to go to a lot, and you need to
see if there are any electronics surplus stores near you. You will
likely go to quite a few such places before you find much. You're
looking at about fifteen years or so of collecting, and some things
were definitely a "you had to be there, at that time, otherwise no..."
kind of deal.

Bear in mind this, as well. I've got some things I bought that can't
be fixed, or if they are to be fixed, I'm going to have to dump some
money into them because of either special parts or amount of parts to
be replaced.

Some of these things need a lot of work to get back to good shape,
cleaning, testing, calibration.

It's not all deals. I've seen stuff that was really nice, and that
I'd like to have, but were so overpriced as to be silly. From what I
can guess, they went home unbought, too....

You hear about the bargains and lucky finds here. Go back and read
some of the archives and you'll find things that just didn't do all
that well.

Harvey

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:48 AM Harvey White <madyn@...>

wrote:

On Thu, 2 May 2019 18:29:30 -0400, you wrote:

I got this one out of the buck a pound box at a surplus vendor at
Dayton a couple years back. It was functional, just needed a battery
pack and there was a fault in the charging circuitry which I fixed.

The TDs were, miraculously, fine.

Highly fortunate. That's one that nobody has ever found a replacement
for.

My 1502 is sitting on the shelf with its input protector firmly in
place. I was lucky enough to mange to find all of the accessories for
it and a lid as well. Ditto with the 1503. Even though the 1503 is
made for longer cables, I think I'd go with that first since it's far
more difficult to damage.

I've got a 7D02 microprocessor tester that I paid 5 dollars for, so I
know the feeling. It seems to work perfectly except no pods. Oh
well. Ought to be on the lookout for that stuff, too.

The 1502 is nice, the thing that is confusing between the 1502 and
1503 is that while the 1503 has a nice sine squared pulse as the
output (which gives you the classic reflections), the 1502 has a step
riding on top of a waveform, and you look for the corresponding step,
not a sine flavored pulse.

Harvey

The cover was twice what I paid for the unit and the repair parts
are around 3X. Nothing like an excuse to spend money.

Paul


On Thu, May 02, 2019 at 06:20:11PM -0400, Harvey White wrote:

On Thu, 2 May 2019 13:26:17 -0400, you wrote:

Thanks for the reply Harvey. I have a Mouser order in so I'm just

going

to replace all of the HV components and hope the transformer didn't

get

toasted. One of those HV caps has a suspicious appearance around
one of the leads.

I actually had one that had a bad CRT, bad horizontal board, and a

few

problems in the pulse generator (I think it was the 1503). Not sure
what the 1502's problem was, but I actually got one with a good TD.

It may have had the bad HV board.

Harvey

The 6.2M resistor has drifted up to 7.5M in the intensity path, so
replacing that might help a bit too.

Paul

On Wed, May 01, 2019 at 10:58:37AM -0400, Harvey White wrote:

On Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:44:20 -0400, you wrote:

After accidentally leaving my 1502 on overnight I came back to

find

it dead. I eventually traced it down to a HV problem.

This circuit is so simple it's ludicrous but I'm hampered by

having

lost my HV probe. In any event, the output across the HV

transformer

is a square wave of about 50V; it's supposed to be 500V. If I
disconnect C4328 (connected directly to the transformer), I see

the

expected 500V across the transformer. The HV diodes appear to be

OK,

but something is loading it down. I've disconnected the CRT and
controls with no change, so it has to be on the board.

I repaired my 1502's high voltage section. I saw capacitors that

had

cracked, and the diodes weren't all that happy either. IIRC,
microwave oven diodes work. I just tested and replaced all the

bad

capacitors.

I don't see any unusually low ohm readings either.

Any ideas for tracking down the failed component or should I just
shotgun the multiplier and replace everything? One cap is 0.033
at 600V and the other 3 are 0.027 at 1200V.

It's been noted that sometimes HV capacitors are OK at lower

voltages

and leaky at higher ones.

!DSPAM:5ccb6d29156751858445706!

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

You don't want to buy the good stuff anyway, like Loctite 9492, you'll say
it's too expensive.

R&G has decent regular temperature epoxy:


And remember: The bigger the gob the better the job.

ST

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 1:33 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...>
wrote:

Does anyone know a good place in Austria to get high temperature epoxy
for gluing down lifted traces? I would appreciate that. A product
available on German Amazon would be good too.

Thanks

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 11:01 PM Szabolcs Szigeti
<szigiszabolcs@...> wrote:

Hi,

You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one:

.

You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure.
I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when

heated

during soldering.

Szabolcs


cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt írta (id?pont: 2019. máj.

3.,

P,

16:21):

Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held

together

by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue

it

down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there,

as I

don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of

that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io

<the_infinite_penguin=

[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is

still

attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket

for a

cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will

have

to

solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so

the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder

on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than

that?

Thanks.

This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it

seems to

stand up well to heat.

Does anyone know a good place in Austria to get high temperature epoxy
for gluing down lifted traces? I would appreciate that. A product
available on German Amazon would be good too.

Thanks

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 11:01 PM Szabolcs Szigeti
<szigiszabolcs@...> wrote:

Hi,

You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one:

.

You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure.
I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when heated
during soldering.

Szabolcs


cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt írta (id?pont: 2019. máj. 3.,

P,

16:21):

Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held

together

by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of

that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is

still

attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket

for a

cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have

to

solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so

the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder

on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than

that?

Thanks.

This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it

seems to

stand up well to heat.

On Thu, 2 May 2019 19:59:08 -0400, you wrote:

Harvey, to your point about the application, to be clear, my applications
in order of priority are:

1. tube amp repair.. basically an audio application involving low
frequencies. I occasionally end up in solid state land but have had luck
isolating a misbehaving component with old time techniques.
2. vintage radio repair

So, very basic stuff where the exacting accuracy of the oscilloscope may
not be necessary. But I'd like for them to be the ballpark.

Ballpark you can get without special equipment. DMM calibration is
something else, but there are 10 volt very accurate references
available. It's when you star looking at 4 1/2 digits and up where
things start to get tricky with the reference. That's also just DC
volts, AC, ohms, and current are separate matters.
For what you're looking at, you would like to have a 100 Mhz scope, at
least dual channels. If you're doing audio and you want to start
poking around audio preamps, you'd want a fairly sensitive scope to
match the expected signal levels.
5 mv/div may be too little.
For portable scopes, the 465 would do well. If you want digital as an
add-on (either, without forcing you into digital at all times), then a
468 would work well.
IF you want a 7000 series scope, then a 7603 would do well, 7B53
plugin for sweep, 7A26 (two of them) gives you 4 channels, a pair of
7A18's would give you 75 Mhz bandwidth, which would be good enough,
although I'd go for the 7A26 if you get another scope frame.
You might want to look at the 7A13 (I prefer the electronic readout
one), and the 7A22. Both are differential, have some good low ends for
input ranges, and may be more of what you want for debugging preamps.
almost any 10x probe with a 1meg input match on the plugin would work.
If you care to, the 7704 is a 200 Mhz bandwidth scope, and would work
well with the same plugins.
For specialized test equipment, the SG502 is an ultra low distortion
signal generator module, and the AA501 or AA5001 is a distortion
analyzer. Bear in mind that audio enthusiasts have bid up the prices
on these, because price is no object.
Nice to have, though.
a good 4 1/2 digit meter would help, you'd like the full range of AC,
DC, AC current (could be useful) and DC current.
Harvey

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 7:27 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:

Sorry for asking this question: What is " levelling head kit" ?
I think it has something to do with calibration....

On Thu, May 2, 2019 at 5:25 PM Craig Sawyers <
c.sawyers@...>
wrote:

And you can get a levelling head kit (no housing) for the SG504 from me

...

David

I have one of your kits and have had for quite a while. Just waiting to
find an SG504 without head
that is less than stupid money ;-)

Craig

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

Thanks, that's really kind of you. I'm afraid the shipping from the US
might be very expensive though!

Does anyone know a good place to buy suitable epoxy in Austria? It
seems I can't find anything...

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 12:46 AM J. L. Trantham <jltran@...> wrote:

Oops.

That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Stefan,

I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.

I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.

You can check it out here:



Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Epoxy would be much better.

Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues
don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor
the connector better than CA.

With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of
wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial
undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the
lifted pad / break.

ST


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.

Oops.

That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Stefan,

I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.

I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.

You can check it out here:



Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Epoxy would be much better.

Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues
don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor
the connector better than CA.

With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of
wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial
undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the
lifted pad / break.

ST


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.

Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.

? I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment.

I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue.

? ? On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

? Thanks for the ideas.

Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together
by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it
down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I
don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that?

On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin=
[email protected] wrote:

On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to
stand up well to heat.