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Re: Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

 

Is there a place that does hydraulics for large trucks and construction machines in your area? They will have hundreds of different sizes in stock, for a few dollars total.


Michael A. Terrell

-----Original Message-----
From: "Ed Breya via Groups.Io" <edbreya@...>
Sent: Aug 26, 2018 8:30 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

I did consider replacing the seals, but Aquamatic doesn't offer any repair/rebuild kits. Until I can ID the motor, that's not an option. I have seen lots of seal kits on line for other motors, so it is likely possible on this one too. BTW I mis-wrote some of the motor info earlier, from memory. The Aquamatic part numbers are 404H for their "#8" motor, which is what I need, and 405H for their larger "#10" one. It turns out that many of the drive part numbers are of the form 4XXH, so there's probably no special significance relating to the motor ID. Maybe the #8 and #10 are important - like if they represent approximate displacement in cubic inches, they'd be in the right ballpark.

Ed



Re: Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

tom jobe
 

Ed,
Just buy some seals by the dimensions, you know which ones leak, or can leak on the motor.
The seals will almost certainly be standard seals in either metric or inch dimensions.
Your local bearing store will probably help you if you aren't in a big city where they often refuse to deal with individuals like they do around here in Los Angeles.
Even then, you can just buy them on-line.
Pumps are simple devices and the seals just keep the oil from falling out and the seals usually do not see much pressure.
tom jobe...

On 8/26/2018 5:30 PM, Ed Breya via Groups.Io wrote:
I did consider replacing the seals, but Aquamatic doesn't offer any repair/rebuild kits. Until I can ID the motor, that's not an option. I have seen lots of seal kits on line for other motors, so it is likely possible on this one too. BTW I mis-wrote some of the motor info earlier, from memory. The Aquamatic part numbers are 404H for their "#8" motor, which is what I need, and 405H for their larger "#10" one. It turns out that many of the drive part numbers are of the form 4XXH, so there's probably no special significance relating to the motor ID. Maybe the #8 and #10 are important - like if they represent approximate displacement in cubic inches, they'd be in the right ballpark.

Ed


Re: Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

 

I did consider replacing the seals, but Aquamatic doesn't offer any repair/rebuild kits. Until I can ID the motor, that's not an option. I have seen lots of seal kits on line for other motors, so it is likely possible on this one too. BTW I mis-wrote some of the motor info earlier, from memory. The Aquamatic part numbers are 404H for their "#8" motor, which is what I need, and 405H for their larger "#10" one. It turns out that many of the drive part numbers are of the form 4XXH, so there's probably no special significance relating to the motor ID. Maybe the #8 and #10 are important - like if they represent approximate displacement in cubic inches, they'd be in the right ballpark.

Ed


Re: Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

tom jobe
 

Hi Ed,
How about just replacing the seals?
It sounds like the rest of it is still working fine.
tom jobe...

On 8/26/2018 1:08 PM, Ed Breya via Groups.Io wrote:
Thought I'd mix it up a little with this project. Today I will likely be working again on our hydraulically operated pool cover system. It has two identical motors - one runs the large roller that the cover winds up on, and the other runs the track rope pulley and pulling system. The main cover one has blown its shaft seal, so oil just gushes out when pressurized. It does still operate, but loses a lot of oil on each cycle in either direction. It has been leaking for some time, but I only recently discovered where from, since this all is normally out of sight in the covered pit.

The cover system is an Aquamatic brand Hydramatic model in-ground type. I found in my records the info on the unit, and that it has a twenty year warranty on the drive mechanism - it will be twenty years in September! I called them to see about warranty and parts, but they are booked up into October, and I'd have to pay for a service call for them to "determine" what caused the failure, then decide if they will honor the warranty.

In the meantime, my wife wants to use the pool, and we have relatives visiting next week. So, I've been weighing my options on getting this thing going again. It's easiest to work on with the cover closed, so very little weight on the roller that would have to be unhooked from the motor. In this case the pool can't be used unless I can quickly get it back in service - even putting the old motor back temporarily. Leaving the pool open allows use, but then the entire weight on the roller will make it trickier to support and align afterward.

Fortunately, the company is actually nearby, and has any part necessary in stock, so I can get the new motor in a day, but the price is rather high, at $675, for what's probably a common OEM $200 part. If I go this route, I may just buy it and try to get them to reimburse it under the warranty, and have it working fairly soon.

The other option is to find a readily available equivalent one, but the trick is to ID it. Tomorrow I'll see if they can tell me what the generic OEM number is. Their part number is simply "H4" for this size, and "H5" for the bigger one in larger cover units - that's all they need. The H4 designation actually seems to be recognizable on line for certain series of motors, but not specific enough to narrow down to one, regardless of the brand.

Presuming I can get it out today, I'd like to ID it if possible. I'll be able to make some measurements and take pictures. I'm hoping to find a label, but nothing is visible or can be felt on either motor while in place. Even if there were any labels, they could have disintegrated long ago in the rough conditions in the pit. From the measurements I can narrow it down to the right standardized frame size, shaft, and fittings, but the displacement is unknown, without fancier experiments. The two motors have to match because they are hydraulically linked to synchronize the cover and ropes. It may be easier and cheaper to just get two of the same OEMs and replace both. The hydraulic demand is modest, running only a few hundred PSI tops.

So anyway, does anyone happen to be familiar with these covers, and know what OEM/generic type numbers the motors may be? The ideal answer is of course, something like "no problem Ed, it's blah blah blah made by so and so, and here's where you can get it for $150 with free overnight shipping:..." But, I'd appreciate any info that can help solve this puzzle. Please contact me off-list at the usual edbreya aaatt yahoo ddott com.

Ed


Re: Tektronix 575 175 Curve Tracer Manual updated.

 

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for your many contributions to TekScopes and to BAMA over the years. Now that we have a fabulous resource dedicated solely to Tektronix I would like to suggest you add one more destination for your uploads:

TekWiki at

You can request upload permission from Kurt by clicking on the link on the URL I listed.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Ingordo
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2018 10:59 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] Tektronix 575 175 Curve Tracer Manual updated.

I have uploaded to ebaman.com a revised scan of the Tektronix 575 & 175
Transistor Curve Tracer. The scan is based on my old BAMA file but has
updated changes section and hi resolution color schematics. As time
permits I'm going to revisit my old BAMA scans and update the schematics
to hi resolution color. As usual you have to login to download. Login is
simple create a name and password and your in. There may be a waiting
period to download. Here is a link.


Equipment/Tektronix/Scopes/5XX-Series/Tek-575--and--175-Revised.pdf/

For what its worth some of the BAMA scans are twenty years old now and
back then file size was an issue which meant color and higher resolution
was not allowed. .

Enjoy.
Jerry
W2JI



--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: Obligatory member email

 

Hi Barry,
Groups.io lists you as a member of TekScopes since 9/30/03.
As near as I can tell the only way it could have that information is if your email ID was transferred over from Yahoo during the transition.

One way or the other: Welcome back old timer!
Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: n4buq
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2018 11:08 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] Obligatory member email

Long time member of Tekscopes but, for some reason, my account did not
migrate to groups.io so I need to post a message to get out of the
moderated box. So here I am, posting a message. Sorry for the bandwidth
but I don't have anything to ask for or contribute to at this time.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ



--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator


TDS520 CPU board (672-1475-03)?

 

A friend of mine recapped and cleaned a failed TDS520 and everything seemed to work but after a year while activating CAL, the CPU board burned (!) around AD667. I guess a leaked electrolyte found a way between CAL supply and ground... So, does anyone have a spare CPU board (672-1475-03)?

Cheers,
Kaj


TDS520 CPU board (672-1475-03)?

 

A friend of mine repaired successfully (so it seemed) a TDS520 by doing all the chores. After one year from the cap replacement an acquisition error appeared and to fix it, he activated the calibration procedure. To our surprise during the calibration a hole was burned to the CPU board close to AD667!

So, does anyone have a spare CPU board for TDS520 (672-1475-03)?

Cheers,
Kaj


Way OT: need to ID OEM hydraulic motor

 

Thought I'd mix it up a little with this project. Today I will likely be working again on our hydraulically operated pool cover system. It has two identical motors - one runs the large roller that the cover winds up on, and the other runs the track rope pulley and pulling system. The main cover one has blown its shaft seal, so oil just gushes out when pressurized. It does still operate, but loses a lot of oil on each cycle in either direction. It has been leaking for some time, but I only recently discovered where from, since this all is normally out of sight in the covered pit.

The cover system is an Aquamatic brand Hydramatic model in-ground type. I found in my records the info on the unit, and that it has a twenty year warranty on the drive mechanism - it will be twenty years in September! I called them to see about warranty and parts, but they are booked up into October, and I'd have to pay for a service call for them to "determine" what caused the failure, then decide if they will honor the warranty.

In the meantime, my wife wants to use the pool, and we have relatives visiting next week. So, I've been weighing my options on getting this thing going again. It's easiest to work on with the cover closed, so very little weight on the roller that would have to be unhooked from the motor. In this case the pool can't be used unless I can quickly get it back in service - even putting the old motor back temporarily. Leaving the pool open allows use, but then the entire weight on the roller will make it trickier to support and align afterward.

Fortunately, the company is actually nearby, and has any part necessary in stock, so I can get the new motor in a day, but the price is rather high, at $675, for what's probably a common OEM $200 part. If I go this route, I may just buy it and try to get them to reimburse it under the warranty, and have it working fairly soon.

The other option is to find a readily available equivalent one, but the trick is to ID it. Tomorrow I'll see if they can tell me what the generic OEM number is. Their part number is simply "H4" for this size, and "H5" for the bigger one in larger cover units - that's all they need. The H4 designation actually seems to be recognizable on line for certain series of motors, but not specific enough to narrow down to one, regardless of the brand.

Presuming I can get it out today, I'd like to ID it if possible. I'll be able to make some measurements and take pictures. I'm hoping to find a label, but nothing is visible or can be felt on either motor while in place. Even if there were any labels, they could have disintegrated long ago in the rough conditions in the pit. From the measurements I can narrow it down to the right standardized frame size, shaft, and fittings, but the displacement is unknown, without fancier experiments. The two motors have to match because they are hydraulically linked to synchronize the cover and ropes. It may be easier and cheaper to just get two of the same OEMs and replace both. The hydraulic demand is modest, running only a few hundred PSI tops.

So anyway, does anyone happen to be familiar with these covers, and know what OEM/generic type numbers the motors may be? The ideal answer is of course, something like "no problem Ed, it's blah blah blah made by so and so, and here's where you can get it for $150 with free overnight shipping:..." But, I'd appreciate any info that can help solve this puzzle. Please contact me off-list at the usual edbreya aaatt yahoo ddott com.

Ed


Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector

 

Hi, Mel (and Dallas, Jeff, and Magnus who turned me on to JB Weld -
thanks, guys!).

While I would like to say that JB Weld saved the day, that's not quite
true.

I glued the piece back on with JB Weld, but now it's really hard to get
a plug-in in and out of the center slot (right vertical), and even
worse, the 7A26 and 7A22 plug-ins I tried don't quite work properly. In
hindsight (as always 20-20 vision), I should have stuck in a piece of
1/16 inch epoxy glass board to position the broken piece properly.
D-oh! I keep a piece of such board handy, as it protects my anti-static
mat while soldering.

So I tried sanding down the JB Weld, and it helped a bit. Also sanded
the insides on the top and bottom a bit, because the reattached piece
kind of bows so the gap between it and the piece on the other side is
greatest in the middle and least at the top and bottom. I suspect this
is why the plug-ins don't work completely. Probably the reattached
piece is pushing the plug-in contacts to the right, away from the mating
contacts on the interface panel.

I could show a photo, but I don't know how to do so. Attaching to the
email doesn't work. Thanks in advance for educating me on that.

Mel, I'm in USA, so I'd imagine shipping from Scotland would be high,
maybe even more than the $233 (wow, that's a shocker - I bought my 7904
with 7A26 and 7B85 for $100 a few years ago!) for the lowest priced 7603
on eBay that's not a Parts Only unit. Although I'd appreciate it if you
would check shipping to Laguna Hills, California, USA 92653. Thanks for
the offer!

Jim

------ Original Message ------
From: "Vintage Test via Groups.Io" <mel.purcell@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: 8/26/2018 2:10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7000 series white plug-in connector

Hi Jim,

I scrapped a couple of 7603s a while ago and still have the rear
interface panels (with connectors), which you¡¯re welcome to. I¡¯m in
Scotland, where are you?

Cheers,
Mel

--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or
soldering irons . . .



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.


Re: Tektronix 575 175 Curve Tracer Manual updated.

Phillip Potter
 

Nice work, Jerry.? I downloaded it with no issues... the color schematics are quite nice!? I also appreciated the rectifier addition.? Thanks.

Phil

On 8/26/2018 10:58 AM, Jerry Ingordo wrote:
I have uploaded to ebaman.com a revised scan of the Tektronix 575 & 175 Transistor Curve Tracer. The scan is based on my old BAMA file but has updated changes section and hi resolution color schematics.
Enjoy.
Jerry
W2JI


Obligatory member email

 

Long time member of Tekscopes but, for some reason, my account did not migrate to groups.io so I need to post a message to get out of the moderated box. So here I am, posting a message. Sorry for the bandwidth but I don't have anything to ask for or contribute to at this time.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ


Re: Looking for ...

 

Thanks, let me know what you find

Chris

On Aug 26, 2018, at 7:33 AM, Vintage Test via Groups.Io <mel.purcell@...> wrote:


I scrapped a couple of 7603s a while ago and think I probably have the HT modules in my spares bin. Let me confirm this and I¡¯ll contact you tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mel
--
you can never have enough oscilloscopes, DMMs, valve testers or soldering irons . . .



Tektronix 575 175 Curve Tracer Manual updated.

 

I have uploaded to ebaman.com a revised scan of the Tektronix 575 & 175 Transistor Curve Tracer. The scan is based on my old BAMA file but has updated changes section and hi resolution color schematics. As time permits I'm going to revisit my old BAMA scans and update the schematics to hi resolution color. As usual you have to login to download. Login is simple create a name and password and your in. There may be a waiting period to download. Here is a link.



For what its worth some of the BAMA scans are twenty years old now and back then file size was an issue which meant color and higher resolution was not allowed. .

Enjoy.
Jerry
W2JI


Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error

Chuck Harris
 

And my apologies for getting hot under the collar.

-Chuck Harris

Sscandizzo@... wrote:

My apologies, Chuck. Consider the behavior corrected.

-Stefan


Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error

 

My apologies, Chuck. Consider the behavior corrected.

-Stefan


Re: 310A scope : serial number oddity ? Ideas ?

 

On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 08:03 AM, Artekmedia wrote:

The serial number location? key is in the 2nd or 3rd page of the Instruction or Service manual.
Thanks. Had a look at my 310A and 317 and 2232 manual, no luck there. However n my 5111A manual, indeed on the second page it gives a list :

B : Beaverton
1 : Guernsey, Channel Islands
2 : The UK
3 : Tektronix / Sony, Japan
7 : Holland / The Netherlands

Also, unless there is a typo on this manual, it looks like US units had a 6 digits SN when all other/foreign plants used only 5 digits number.
Which seems odd since there is a single S sequence common to all plants, from what I understand (the part list changes imply so, anyway, they only give SN )

Still doesn't say what '0' means, though. Maybe some manual does tell....

It is not uncommon for European built units to have slight circuit and mechanical differences compared to the their USA half brothers.
Ah, OK. Thanks for that. There is no mystery left about my scope's SN then, all sorted.... :-)


Vincent Trouilliez


Re: 310A scope : serial number oddity ? Ideas ?

 

On Sun, Aug 26, 2018 at 07:45 AM, Dave Daniel wrote:

My 310A has serial number 015467 and was made for or customized for IBM
What does the zero in the S/N mean as far as here it was built? I might assume that "0" indicates Beaverton.
Interesting. Yeah if it's for IBM I guess it was made in the US, so Beaverton. Maybe the '0' was used for custom built equipment that was only sold to a particular customer and therefore didn't make it to the general products catalog...


Also, where do y'all get the information about serial number dating? From the service manual?
Yes.If you look at any Tek parts list (be it electrical or mechanical), for each individual component, if there has been a change at some point, you will have two consecutive lines for the same component designator. Each line specifies the SN range for which it is valid.



Vincent Trouilliez


Re: 310A scope : serial number oddity ? Ideas ?

 

The serial number location? key is in the 2nd or 3rd page of the Instruction or Service manual. Not all manuals contain all serial number location keys. Some manuals have no serial location key at all. there is every possible permutation and combination you can think of.

It is not uncommon for European built units to have slight circuit and mechanical differences compared to the their USA half brothers. In many cases (but not always) a separate? European manual was printed. At least over here on the west shore of the pond European printed manuals are relatively rare. Most of the digital copies of Tektronix manuals you will find are scanned from the USA version (including 99.8% of the ArtekManuals.com manuals). This is a sheer function of the number of units loose in the wild over here compared to Europe

Dave
manuals@...

On 8/26/2018 10:45 AM, Dave Daniel wrote:
My 310A has serial number 015467 and was made for or customized for IBM (I think this mostly meant that some special accessories were made available; mine came with a leather carrying case and a probe selector).

What does the zero in the S/N mean as far as here it was built? I might assume that "0" indicates Beaverton.

Also, where do y'all get the information about serial number dating? From the service manual?

Thanks

DaveD


On 8/26/2018 5:31 AM, David C. Partridge wrote:
Yes, Guernsey plant serial numbers start with a 1

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Vincent Trouilliez
Sent: 26 August 2018 03:52
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] 310A scope : serial number oddity ? Ideas ?

Hi Gents,

So is the leading " 1 " a valid plant number ?




--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com


Re: 310A scope : serial number oddity ? Ideas ?

 

My 310A has serial number 015467 and was made for or customized for IBM (I think this mostly meant that some special accessories were made available; mine came with a leather carrying case and a probe selector).

What does the zero in the S/N mean as far as here it was built? I might assume that "0" indicates Beaverton.

Also, where do y'all get the information about serial number dating? From the service manual?

Thanks

DaveD

On 8/26/2018 5:31 AM, David C. Partridge wrote:
Yes, Guernsey plant serial numbers start with a 1

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Vincent Trouilliez
Sent: 26 August 2018 03:52
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] 310A scope : serial number oddity ? Ideas ?

Hi Gents,

So is the leading " 1 " a valid plant number ?