¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: What type plastic case for 1502-1503 TDR?

 

I have used methylene chloride (dichloromethane) very successfully on 1502 cases. I've repaired both hairline cracks and 1" bits chipped/broken off without problems.

Be careful, since it is an unpleasant chemical.

On 27/07/18 17:27, Carl Hallberg via Groups.Io wrote:
I had one of the cases repaired by a person who uses plastic welding and it turned out bad. He wasn't sure what the material was. Looking inside the case I can see some type of dark glue that attached the original segments. Searching the manuals gave no indication, but maybe I missed it. Would be nice if there is a solvent type glue. Thanks in advance.

Carl Hallberg (W9CJH)


What type plastic case for 1502-1503 TDR?

 

I had one of the cases repaired by a person who uses plastic welding and it turned out bad. He wasn't sure what the material was. Looking inside the case I can see some type of dark glue that attached the original segments. Searching the manuals gave no indication, but maybe I missed it. Would be nice if there is a solvent type glue. Thanks in advance.

Carl Hallberg (W9CJH)


Re: All TekScopes email sent to Spam

 

Thanks to all who responded to my problem. Some didn't know that my email server is YAHOO, and mentioned only groups.io. When we do a round table discussion the original message gets lost. I no longer have the problem.
Carl Hallberg (W9CJH)


--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 7/25/18, Carl Hallberg via Groups.Io <n9ess@...> wrote:

Subject: [TekScopes] All TekScopes email sent to Spam
To: [email protected]
Date: Wednesday, July 25, 2018, 1:35 PM

Help,
Now all my TekScopes email is sent to
spam folder.? Is this a Yahoo problem??
Carl Hallberg? (W9CJH)


Re: Radio Shack update

 

On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 11:21:50 -0400, you wrote:


There's a local Rat Shack, but apparently this (and most) are all
franchise stores, carrying branded stuff, but not just that.

Normally don't need to go there.

Harvey






Hope this appropriate ...

FYI
I received this just moments ago ...


Hobbyist? Maker? Do-It-Yourselfer?
Announcing over 60 new RadioShack Express HobbyTown stores stocked with everything you need to build, play, and learn!

Visit a participating HobbyTown or RadioShack dealer near you for tools, solder, parts, components, batteries, and more.


Copyright ? 2018 General Wireless Operations Inc, dba RadioShack
801 NE 38th Street Fort Worth, Texas 76106





-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Joel R Kist
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 11:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

Radio Shack is NOT gone ... Just wanted to let all know: check listing in your area: also they have other companies selling their items much like Sears did.

Joel

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ray Burke
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

The Radio Shack Desoldering bulb is useless because you cant get the tips any more, no more Radio Shack. I have used the Radio Shack Desoldering bulb, (have one). Solder Wick, Solder Suckers and other tools, while they are cheap, they do cause damage to the circuit boards with pulled pads, through holes, and other problems, ( I have used them and damaged my boards). Don't use any of the cheap alternatives, if you want to save the circuit boards. Use at least a good Desoldering gun or station. Use at least a Hakko FR-301 which I just bought, or a better Hakko Desoldering station, there are others that are more expensive like Pace, Metcal, which I used at work. I just used it to repair my wifes monitor that died with no power, and opened it up and found about three bulging capacitors, replaced all eight on the power supply, and fixed it. After getting the caps at Fry's it only took me about 20 minutes to change all eight, love my new Desoldering gun, NO PULLED PADS. One other
thing is manufacture support, Hakko is the best. I got a desoldering station from my work, which they didn't want any more and Hakko had the tips for the thing. Now you could get some cheap Chinese knockoff but support may not be their in a few years, or at all. Buy at least a Hakko and you won't be disappointed. The other main desoldering companies are more expensive. You could check out the tear apart videos of the www.EEVBlog with Dave Jones.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 11:36 PM, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@...> wrote:


I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good solder, because there was very little waste.

We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around 1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production line in one of the Orlando plants.

Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with, even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few months, as they continued to refine the profiles.

Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF from a 1700 foot tower. :)

Michael A. Terrell


-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Sent: Jul 26, 2018 11:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines. I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop. I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating. I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to. Which was a lot. I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.

Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.

But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.

I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C. That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.

Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry. It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.

-Chuck Harris













Re: Radio Shack update

 

Hope this appropriate ...

FYI
I received this just moments ago ...


Hobbyist? Maker? Do-It-Yourselfer?
Announcing over 60 new RadioShack Express HobbyTown stores stocked with everything you need to build, play, and learn!

Visit a participating HobbyTown or RadioShack dealer near you for tools, solder, parts, components, batteries, and more.


Copyright ? 2018 General Wireless Operations Inc, dba RadioShack
801 NE 38th Street Fort Worth, Texas 76106

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Joel R Kist
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 11:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

Radio Shack is NOT gone ... Just wanted to let all know: check listing in your area: also they have other companies selling their items much like Sears did.

Joel

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ray Burke
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

The Radio Shack Desoldering bulb is useless because you cant get the tips any more, no more Radio Shack. I have used the Radio Shack Desoldering bulb, (have one). Solder Wick, Solder Suckers and other tools, while they are cheap, they do cause damage to the circuit boards with pulled pads, through holes, and other problems, ( I have used them and damaged my boards). Don't use any of the cheap alternatives, if you want to save the circuit boards. Use at least a good Desoldering gun or station. Use at least a Hakko FR-301 which I just bought, or a better Hakko Desoldering station, there are others that are more expensive like Pace, Metcal, which I used at work. I just used it to repair my wifes monitor that died with no power, and opened it up and found about three bulging capacitors, replaced all eight on the power supply, and fixed it. After getting the caps at Fry's it only took me about 20 minutes to change all eight, love my new Desoldering gun, NO PULLED PADS. One other thing is manufacture support, Hakko is the best. I got a desoldering station from my work, which they didn't want any more and Hakko had the tips for the thing. Now you could get some cheap Chinese knockoff but support may not be their in a few years, or at all. Buy at least a Hakko and you won't be disappointed. The other main desoldering companies are more expensive. You could check out the tear apart videos of the www.EEVBlog with Dave Jones.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 11:36 PM, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@...> wrote:


I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good solder, because there was very little waste.

We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around 1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production line in one of the Orlando plants.

Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with, even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few months, as they continued to refine the profiles.

Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF from a 1700 foot tower. :)

Michael A. Terrell


-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Sent: Jul 26, 2018 11:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines. I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop. I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating. I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to. Which was a lot. I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.

Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.

But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.

I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C. That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.

Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry. It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.

-Chuck Harris


Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

 

I only lifted a couple pads, out of thousands. The ones that did lift were on very low grade consumer products. I agree that there are better methods available today, but what else was available to most of us, in the pre-internet days?

I have about a dozen new spare tips, and a 7x14 metal lathe. Some hard brass rod and a little time machining it will give me more of them if I ever need them. I'm in my late 60s, and no longer spend full days reworking PC boards.

I worked at a defense plant back in the '70s, after my time in the Army. The women doing the rework had no desoldering irons, only wet wicking. They were all put through the NASA approved soldering course, yet I could do things they couldn't. Their boss 'borrowed' me to teach them some new things, in spite of their union steward's instance that no man could solder. I spent the rest of my time there doing QA and Module interchangeability on the PRC77 manpack radios.

Michael A. Terrell

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Burke <burke.ray@...>
Sent: Jul 27, 2018 10:10 AM
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

The Radio Shack Desoldering bulb is useless?because you cant get the tips any more, no more Radio Shack.? I have used the?Radio Shack Desoldering bulb, (have one).? Solder Wick, Solder Suckers?and other tools, while they are cheap, they do cause damage to the circuit boards with pulled pads, through holes, and other problems, ( I have used them and damaged my boards).? Don't use any of the cheap alternatives, if you want to save the circuit boards.? Use at least a good?Desoldering gun or station.? Use at least a Hakko FR-301 which I just bought, or a better Hakko Desoldering station, there are others that are more expensive like Pace, Metcal, which I used at work.? I?just?used it to repair my wife's monitor?that died?with no power, and opened it up and found?about three bulging capacitors, replaced all eight on the power supply, and fixed it.? After getting the caps at Fry's it only took? me about 20 minutes to change all eight, love my new Desoldering gun, NO PULLED PADS.? One other thing is manufacture support, Hakko is the best.? I got a desoldering station from my work, which they didn't want any more and Hakko had?the tips for the thing.? Now you could?get some cheap Chinese knockoff but support may not be their in a few years, or at all.? ??Buy at least a Hakko?and you?won't be disappointed.?The other main desoldering companies are more expensive.? You could check out the tear apart videos of the ?www.EEVBlog with Dave Jones.???

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 11:36 PM, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@...> wrote:


I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good solder, because there was very little waste.

We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around 1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production line in one of the Orlando plants.

Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with, even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few months, as they continued to refine the profiles.

Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF from a 1700 foot tower. :)

Michael A. Terrell


Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

 

Radio Shack is NOT gone ... Just wanted to let all know: check listing in your area: also they have other companies selling their items much like Sears did.

Joel

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ray Burke
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 10:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

The Radio Shack Desoldering bulb is useless because you cant get the tips any more, no more Radio Shack. I have used the Radio Shack Desoldering bulb, (have one). Solder Wick, Solder Suckers and other tools, while they are cheap, they do cause damage to the circuit boards with pulled pads, through holes, and other problems, ( I have used them and damaged my boards). Don't use any of the cheap alternatives, if you want to save the circuit boards. Use at least a good Desoldering gun or station. Use at least a Hakko FR-301 which I just bought, or a better Hakko Desoldering station, there are others that are more expensive like Pace, Metcal, which I used at work. I just used it to repair my wifes monitor that died with no power, and opened it up and found about three bulging capacitors, replaced all eight on the power supply, and fixed it. After getting the caps at Fry's it only took me about 20 minutes to change all eight, love my new Desoldering gun, NO PULLED PADS. One other thing is manufacture support, Hakko is the best. I got a desoldering station from my work, which they didn't want any more and Hakko had the tips for the thing. Now you could get some cheap Chinese knockoff but support may not be their in a few years, or at all. Buy at least a Hakko and you won't be disappointed. The other main desoldering companies are more expensive. You could check out the tear apart videos of the www.EEVBlog with Dave Jones.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 11:36 PM, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@...> wrote:


I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good solder, because there was very little waste.

We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around 1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production line in one of the Orlando plants.

Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with, even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few months, as they continued to refine the profiles.

Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF from a 1700 foot tower. :)

Michael A. Terrell


-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Sent: Jul 26, 2018 11:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines. I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop. I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating. I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to. Which was a lot. I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.

Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.

But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.

I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C. That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.

Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry. It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.

-Chuck Harris


Re: Tek 495P A54 Memory Board Option Switch Settings for v9.7 Firmware

 

John,

Your notes of 21 May 04 actually show the switch configuration that works for me. However, with several conflicting publications re this, I wasn't sure who to believe. Now I know who to believe!
RB


Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

 

The Radio Shack Desoldering bulb is useless?because you cant get the tips any more, no more Radio Shack.? I have used the?Radio Shack Desoldering bulb, (have one).? Solder Wick, Solder Suckers?and other tools, while they are cheap, they do cause damage to the circuit boards with pulled pads, through holes, and other problems, ( I have used them and damaged my boards).? Don't use any of the cheap alternatives, if you want to save the circuit boards.? Use at least a good?Desoldering gun or station.? Use at least a Hakko FR-301 which I just bought, or a better Hakko Desoldering station, there are others that are more expensive like Pace, Metcal, which I used at work.? I?just?used it to repair my wifes monitor?that died?with no power, and opened it up and found?about three bulging capacitors, replaced all eight on the power supply, and fixed it.? After getting the caps at Fry's it only took? me about 20 minutes to change all eight, love my new Desoldering gun, NO PULLED PADS.? One other thing is manufacture support, Hakko is the best.? I got a desoldering station from my work, which they didn't want any more and Hakko had?the tips for the thing.? Now you could?get some cheap Chinese knockoff but support may not be their in a few years, or at all.? ??Buy at least a Hakko?and you?won't be disappointed.?The other main desoldering companies are more expensive.? You could check out the tear apart videos of the ?www.EEVBlog with Dave Jones.

On Thursday, July 26, 2018 11:36 PM, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@...> wrote:


I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good solder, because there was very little waste.

We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around 1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production line in one of the Orlando plants.

Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with, even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few months, as they continued to refine the profiles.

Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF from a 1700 foot tower. :)

Michael A. Terrell


-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Sent: Jul 26, 2018 11:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines.? I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop.? I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating.? I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to.? Which was a lot.? I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.

Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.

But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.

I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C.? That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.

Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry.? It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.

-Chuck Harris


Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

 

There are, indeed, many cheap/fast PCB suppliers. Most won't "advertise" /other/ people's boards, nor allow you to buy them.

If I was to make such a board, I couldn't be bothered with all the hassle to send it to other people, but I would be happy for them to buy them directly from source.

On 27/07/18 14:20, n4buq wrote:
Hi Tom,

I've used them before. I used JLCPCB for these boards. I'm pretty sure there are several options for inexpensive boards like these.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gardner" <tggzzz@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 8:15:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

On 27/07/18 13:33, n4buq wrote:
I may do that. If someone wants just one, then it's somewhat cheaper to
get it from someone (me?) who orders a batch. I'm probably going to order
one more batch with the updates I mentioned and then turn it loose.

I need to make a PDF of process as well. There are some considerations
that I really didn't mention (e.g. some jumpers need to be put in place or
extra ground wires run to the board, etc.) and a better document will help
there.
Alternative: use

You can make the design available for anyone else to order:

That saves you hassle and you are given some credit against your next order.
Of
course you can't make a profit either :)

You can fit a single "figure of eight" pcb containing two circular "capacitor
converters" in a 50x50mm board, provided you rotate the "8" by 45 degrees.

Cost $12 for 10 boards, i.e. 20 capacitors. That's a lifetime supply for most
people!



Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

 

When I designed the board, I intentionally made it one-sided to eliminate the exposure of the higher voltages to the top side of the board. In retrospect, those would be very difficult to get one's fingers on when the board is installed - much more difficult than the exposed circuit on the bottom side of the main board. Given that, I may go with a double-sided board so that the connecting wires protrude from underneath the board which I think would make a neater installation.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gardner" <tggzzz@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 8:15:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

On 27/07/18 13:33, n4buq wrote:
I may do that. If someone wants just one, then it's somewhat cheaper to
get it from someone (me?) who orders a batch. I'm probably going to order
one more batch with the updates I mentioned and then turn it loose.

I need to make a PDF of process as well. There are some considerations
that I really didn't mention (e.g. some jumpers need to be put in place or
extra ground wires run to the board, etc.) and a better document will help
there.
Alternative: use

You can make the design available for anyone else to order:

That saves you hassle and you are given some credit against your next order.
Of
course you can't make a profit either :)

You can fit a single "figure of eight" pcb containing two circular "capacitor
converters" in a 50x50mm board, provided you rotate the "8" by 45 degrees.

Cost $12 for 10 boards, i.e. 20 capacitors. That's a lifetime supply for most
people!




Re: Substitutions for 465, 475, & 485 semiconductors

 

Hi Reginald,
Have you taken a look at the tremendous collection of stuff on Hakanh's site? There is a semiconductor workbook at (bottom of the page, more or less) which may help you.
Stan Griffiths' page used to have some useful stuff, too (such as CRT/scope info), but it seems to be currently unavailable...
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io
Sent: 27 July 2018 12:41
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Substitutions for 465, 475, & 485 semiconductors

I'm well aware of the site. But I had not found a substitution list on it. All a search with google produced was quotations from manuals about checking by substitution. But I did find the Tek cross reference when I thought to provide the right synonym.



Thanks.


Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

 

Hi Tom,

I've used them before. I used JLCPCB for these boards. I'm pretty sure there are several options for inexpensive boards like these.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gardner" <tggzzz@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 8:15:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

On 27/07/18 13:33, n4buq wrote:
I may do that. If someone wants just one, then it's somewhat cheaper to
get it from someone (me?) who orders a batch. I'm probably going to order
one more batch with the updates I mentioned and then turn it loose.

I need to make a PDF of process as well. There are some considerations
that I really didn't mention (e.g. some jumpers need to be put in place or
extra ground wires run to the board, etc.) and a better document will help
there.
Alternative: use

You can make the design available for anyone else to order:

That saves you hassle and you are given some credit against your next order.
Of
course you can't make a profit either :)

You can fit a single "figure of eight" pcb containing two circular "capacitor
converters" in a 50x50mm board, provided you rotate the "8" by 45 degrees.

Cost $12 for 10 boards, i.e. 20 capacitors. That's a lifetime supply for most
people!




Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

 

On 27/07/18 13:33, n4buq wrote:
I may do that. If someone wants just one, then it's somewhat cheaper to get it from someone (me?) who orders a batch. I'm probably going to order one more batch with the updates I mentioned and then turn it loose.

I need to make a PDF of process as well. There are some considerations that I really didn't mention (e.g. some jumpers need to be put in place or extra ground wires run to the board, etc.) and a better document will help there.
Alternative: use

You can make the design available for anyone else to order:
That saves you hassle and you are given some credit against your next order. Of course you can't make a profit either :)

You can fit a single "figure of eight" pcb containing two circular "capacitor converters" in a 50x50mm board, provided you rotate the "8" by 45 degrees.

Cost $12 for 10 boards, i.e. 20 capacitors. That's a lifetime supply for most people!


Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

 

I may do that. If someone wants just one, then it's somewhat cheaper to get it from someone (me?) who orders a batch. I'm probably going to order one more batch with the updates I mentioned and then turn it loose.

I need to make a PDF of process as well. There are some considerations that I really didn't mention (e.g. some jumpers need to be put in place or extra ground wires run to the board, etc.) and a better document will help there.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Cockburn" <brian.cockburn.1959@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2018 6:59:49 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

Barry,

Although I'm not interested in these PCBs per se, could I make a
suggestion? Perhaps for international Tek fans you could put the design
(schematic, layout, & gerbers) on github, dropbox, or something similar?
That way people can use any of the many PCB fab companies (in China) to
get it done for themselves. This makes it easier for you, but obviously
you may lose control of the design going forward.

Cheers, Brian.




Re: Replacing Electrolytics in a 465/465B

 

Barry,

Although I'm not interested in these PCBs per se, could I make a suggestion? Perhaps for international Tek fans you could put the design (schematic, layout, & gerbers) on github, dropbox, or something similar? That way people can use any of the many PCB fab companies (in China) to get it done for themselves. This makes it easier for you, but obviously you may lose control of the design going forward.

Cheers, Brian.


Re: Substitutions for 465, 475, & 485 semiconductors

 

I'm well aware of the site. But I had not found a substitution list on it. All a search with google produced was quotations from manuals about checking by substitution. But I did find the Tek cross reference when I thought to provide the right synonym.



Thanks.


Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

 

I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so Ii didn't have to go through our boss and pay his markup. He bought me my first desoldering iron which was a professional version of that Radio Shack version. It was made by Endevco, and it was almost $40 which was a lot for a kid making a buck an hour after school. He was also the one who got me started on Ersin Multicore solder. I've never regretted paying a little extra for good solder, because there was very little waste.

We handed the resale of a wave solder machine for Lockheed Martin around 1990, along with other process equipment after they shut down a production line in one of the Orlando plants.

Microdyne was still using the same grade of paste solder they tarted with, even though the SMD parts were a lot smaller than the first they used. I had to fight with Manufacturing engineering to buy a type with smaller solder balls and a RMA flux. The fine pitch ICs (IE: MC68340) came out of the early ovens with unmelted solder balls under the ICs, and the 0402 passives were tombstoning. They had spent a wad on that Heller oven, but the quality hadn't changed. Once we had better solder, we could refine the reflow profiles. That eliminated over 95% of the reflow problems within a few months, as they continued to refine the profiles.

Did you build much equipment for your Amateur radio hobby? I went a different route, into broadcasting. Not many hams ever got to pump out 5MW EIRP of RF from a 1700 foot tower. :)

Michael A. Terrell

-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@...>
Sent: Jul 26, 2018 11:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines. I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop. I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating. I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to. Which was a lot. I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.

Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.

But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.

I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C. That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.

Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry. It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.

-Chuck Harris


Re: Compatibility between Series-5000 and TM500/TM5000 latches

 

Hi Colin,
The TM500 / TM5000 series went through AT LEAST five different mechanical variations of the pull tabs for reasons that I have never figured out. Each one was different enough that none of the parts were interchangeable between the variants.

I have never looked at the 5000 scope series plugins I have to determine how many different variations there were or which ones (if any) were TM500 / TM5000 compatible.

I would estimate the chances of finding the pull tab you are looking for to be quite poor.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2018 8:15 AM

Hi,
I know there have been enquiries as to whether the back-plane connections of
these two series are compatible, but that is not the question that I am
asking. I am wondering if the mechanical latching mechanism, with all of its
parts, is the same between these series. The manuals are not very clear.
Does anyone have any information on this? I am interested because I am
considering buying a parts-donor 5A22N to provide latch components for my FG
504.
TIA, Colin.


--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: Wow Radio Shack desoldering Iron Best review ever, Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

Chuck Harris
 

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines. I
was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for
DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop. I did a ton of
odd jobs after the child labor bureau made me stop doing all of
their silver and gold plating. I was a sponge, and soaked up every
process or technique I was exposed to. Which was a lot. I did
etching, plating, drilling, KPR, soldering, helped set up the
one-off machines that made standoffs and rivets... moved safes,
carried trash, pushed a broom... but I digress.

Nobody that I am aware of was using reflow ovens back in 1970.
Everything I saw was either through-hole, or was simple stuff
that was hand soldered on one of the teflon based pcb materials.

But I can only talk to what DEI, Nems-Clarke, and Vitro were did,
and also what a PCB manufacture/build/assemble house I worked at
later was doing.

I just did a search, and the only 80/20 alloy I could find was a
Pb80/Sn20, which has a solidus temperature of 183C and a liquidus
temperature of 280C. That is as compared to 63/37 which is 183C.

Pb80/Sn20 would be wonderful for operations where you needed to
sculpt the solder, like a car fender, or the terminals on very high
voltage circuitry. It would also be useful for soldering terminals
that might be later soldered with 63/37, such as the internal connections
on a modular mixer.

-Chuck Harris



Michael A. Terrell wrote:

I had some from a company around Orlando that was 80/20. I thought that was odd, but it was in the original containers. We also got tons of what the wave solder machines in the area skimmed as waste. We sold it to a company that made cheap solder to re-refine. Another source was from a company that made marine wiring harnesses. 30 years ago, there were a lot of companies in Orlando using tons of solder.

Did you do any work with reflow ovens?

I never used a wave solder machine, but we had three reflow ovens at Microdyne. Two older 'pizza oven' models, and a new Heller with computer controlled, multiple zone operation that stored the profile for every board that we built.


Michael A. Terrell