Re: FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
The contact's name is Volker Klocke at oscilloscopemuseum at gmail dot com.
Located in Western MA, I've never visited it.
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Re: FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
Wow!? I haven't seen a pallet like that since I bought my two.? I'm SO glad I'm not closer! -Dave From: David Berlind <david@...> To: [email protected]; Dennis Tillman W7PF <dennis@...> Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:03 PM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA BTW... just up the road from Shannon is a full pallet of Tektronix stuff. On June 14, 2018 9:32:45 PM "Dennis Tillman W7PF" <dennis@...> wrote: Hi Shannon,
I was not aware of this museum until you mentioned it. Where are they
located and who is their contact in the US?
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Shannon Hill
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 6:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of
Boston, MA
Thanks, decided to donate a 555 and a 536 to oscilloscopemuseum.com .
--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
BTW... just up the road from Shannon is a full pallet of Tektronix stuff.
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On June 14, 2018 9:32:45 PM "Dennis Tillman W7PF" <dennis@...> wrote: Hi Shannon,
I was not aware of this museum until you mentioned it. Where are they located and who is their contact in the US?
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Shannon Hill
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 6:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of
Boston, MA
Thanks, decided to donate a 555 and a 536 to oscilloscopemuseum.com .
--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: 465 serial number 118,XXX
Finally got this thing fixed. Looks like someone attempted to repair a bridge rectifier and during the process tore out the through hole plating. I'm going to order some eyelets and a staking tool when I get some money. Anyway here it is. /g/TekScopes/photo/56393/1?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0 'm working on a 465 pre serial # 250,000. I'm having a hard time locating the schematic for this early scope. If anyone has a link or one they would share that would be awesome. I changed all the LV power caps but there is no HV and the -8V,15V and 5V are all low. Ground to to the -8V TP is 55ohm. Ground to 15V TP is 176ohm and ground to 5V TP is 103ohm. I removed the HV multiplier ground jumper with no difference in any voltages. Pin 8 of U1524 is the correct 28V. Pin 4 of U1554 is 1.5V (supposed to be -8V) and pin 8 is 0V (supposed to be 15V). *Im hoping all these numbers are close because I don't have the correct schematic* 5V TP meter reading is .6V 15V TP meter reading is 1.5V -8V TP meter reading is +.7 55V TP meter reading is 55v 110V TP meter reading is 109.5
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Re: FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
Hi Shannon,
I was not aware of this museum until you mentioned it. Where are they located and who is their contact in the US?
Dennis
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Shannon Hill
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 6:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of
Boston, MA
Thanks, decided to donate a 555 and a 536 to oscilloscopemuseum.com . -- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
Thanks, decided to donate a 555 and a 536 to oscilloscopemuseum.com .
|
Re: What removes sticker residue without hurting the blue paint?
I don't have a sampling head, let alone one with sticker residue. So to validate @Dennis' results (not that we should have any reason to doubt Dennis...we absolutely shouldn't), I used Goo Gone on my actual head and am happy to report that it came out shiny and perfect too. My wife likes the smell too.
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On June 14, 2018 7:39:38 PM "Dennis Tillman W7PF" <dennis@...> wrote: Thank you for all your great suggestions for removing sticker residue and
warnings about what to avoid.
What an astounding variety of responses about how to remove the sticker
residue without harming the paint! I was not even aware of most of these
products. There were many other situations that our members had solutions
for as well.
I am hoping someone will condense the replies down into a list of products
for each of the situations people had solutions for and also provide a list
of ingredients to absolutely avoid in products you might otherwise consider
using. This would be a great list to add to the archives. Unfortunately I do
not have the time to do this myself.
I was most impressed with the large number of members who said Goo Gone was
what they used. So I bought some. It has several other things going for it
besides all your recommendations: It is sold everywhere; It is very
inexpensive; There is a Spray Gel version as well as the original version;
and it smells so nice my wife liked it (which was a big surprise).
I tried it on a pair of sampling heads that had lots of sticker residue on
their cases. It worked like magic!!! Even where there was a little sticker
residue left all the rubbing I did to remove the remaining residue had no
effect on the paint at all. The cases came out shiny and perfect. I was so
impressed I did the cases of all my sampling heads. Every one turned out
perfect.
I'm sure all the other suggestions would work as well but Goo Gone is all I
need for now.
Dennis Tillman W7PF
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Bill Riches
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 3:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] What removes sticker residue without hurting
the blue paint?
73,
Bill, WA2DVU
Cape May
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Kevin
Oconnor
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 9:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] What removes sticker residue without hurting
the blue paint?
This topic brought back memories from an unrelated area of my past.
Years ago I was an avid home brewer and wine maker, and needed to
recycle bottles with labels. I used a product called Straight-A Label
Remover. 2tbsp/gal hot water and soak overnight. Even the most
stubborn label would have sluffed off of its own weight by morning!
Never was sure what was in it, but but it had that slick feel. Maybe
highly ionic or something.
Kjo
--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: Anodize Scratch Removal
Sand CAREFULLY to remove the rough edges fill with grey auto body glazing compound.
Wet Sand with 400 wet paper to smooth to touch and paint with either Testors Silver or Floquil ¡®Platinum Mist¡¯
Will not be a perfect match but will take care of gouges and look a heck of a lot better
The other fix is to put cal sticker in damaged area.
Content by Scott
Typos by Siri
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Re: FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
Hi Shannon,
It¡¯s good to hear from you again. I hope all is well.
Dennis Tillman W7PF
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Shannon Hill
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 11:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of
Boston, MA
Search for xyzzy in the listing body.
Thinning the herd, several working scopes for $100; along with some
HP and GenRad gear. -- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: What removes sticker residue without hurting the blue paint?
Thank you for all your great suggestions for removing sticker residue and
warnings about what to avoid.
What an astounding variety of responses about how to remove the sticker
residue without harming the paint! I was not even aware of most of these
products. There were many other situations that our members had solutions
for as well.
I am hoping someone will condense the replies down into a list of products
for each of the situations people had solutions for and also provide a list
of ingredients to absolutely avoid in products you might otherwise consider
using. This would be a great list to add to the archives. Unfortunately I do
not have the time to do this myself.
I was most impressed with the large number of members who said Goo Gone was
what they used. So I bought some. It has several other things going for it
besides all your recommendations: It is sold everywhere; It is very
inexpensive; There is a Spray Gel version as well as the original version;
and it smells so nice my wife liked it (which was a big surprise).
I tried it on a pair of sampling heads that had lots of sticker residue on
their cases. It worked like magic!!! Even where there was a little sticker
residue left all the rubbing I did to remove the remaining residue had no
effect on the paint at all. The cases came out shiny and perfect. I was so
impressed I did the cases of all my sampling heads. Every one turned out
perfect.
I'm sure all the other suggestions would work as well but Goo Gone is all I
need for now.
Dennis Tillman W7PF
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Bill Riches
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 3:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] What removes sticker residue without hurting
the blue paint?
73,
Bill, WA2DVU
Cape May
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Kevin
Oconnor
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 9:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] What removes sticker residue without hurting
the blue paint?
This topic brought back memories from an unrelated area of my past.
Years ago I was an avid home brewer and wine maker, and needed to
recycle bottles with labels. I used a product called Straight-A Label
Remover. 2tbsp/gal hot water and soak overnight. Even the most
stubborn label would have sluffed off of its own weight by morning!
Never was sure what was in it, but but it had that slick feel. Maybe
highly ionic or something.
Kjo
-- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator
|
FS: Tektronix scopes on craigslist; North of Boston, MA
Search for xyzzy in the listing body.
Thinning the herd, several working scopes for $100;
along with some HP and GenRad gear.
|
Re: What removes sticker residue without hurting the blue paint?
I use W-D40, it works great. It does not harm the paint! On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 7:10 PM, Dennis Tillman W7PF <dennis@...> wrote: A far too common problem I have no solution for yet:
What will remove sticker residue on Tek blue paint without harming the
paint
finish?
Stay away from GOOF OFF. Its active ingredient is XYLENE, which dissolves
paint very quickly. Don't ask me how I know :(
Isopropyl alcohol is very mild on most things but it does poorly against
the
sticker residue and often you have to rub the affected area to get the glue
to come off. The rubbing removes some blue paint and mars the finish so
that
is no good.
Would boiling water soften the sticker residue and leave the paint alone or
would it siften the paint as well.
Suggestions are welcome.
|
To whom it may concern:
This forum is devoted to the discussion of Tek products. There are other places to have discussions about other subjects.
Dennis Tillman W7PF
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Jim Strohm
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 3:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] NEW to the group
ironcoder@...
<ironcoder@...?subject=Re:%20NEW%20to%20the%20group> said
"Eric, I am not optimistic about our chances of not using nukes again.
There are groups in the world who would not hesitate to use a nuke if
they got their hands on one. I believe the USA would use nukes in
retaliation for an attack on America without really knowing who set
off the nuke that attacked America. Even an angry president could go
ahead and start something like this. Our world without nuclear war is
on a tenuous footing "
Actually, while we'd need a declaration of war by Congress before
launching a retaliatory strike, given that the Gulf of Tonkin
resolution is still in place, President <somebody somebody mumble>
could push the button on a retaliatory strike before the missile
entered US air space -- actually maybe even before the bits and pieces
of that missile landed in the Pacific or Arctic ocean after we
destroyed the missile with our anti-missile defense systems. We DO
have sophisticated enough space-based systems to monitor everybody
capable of using an ICBM against us or an ally, and enough globally
dispersed resources to kill a billion people in five minutes.
And DO NOT doubt the ability of President <somebody somebody mumble>
to sign an executive order providing for an instant-messaging-enabled
emergency meeting of Congress, provide a boilerplate declaration of
war with Speaker Ryan's pre-signed electronic signature on it, and
have a Constitutionally valid declaration of war in place before the
short-range Polaris missiles from the boomer submarines landed. It's
the Soviet "dead hand" machine, except via Facebook.
I hope we don't see anything like this in any of our lifetimes,
because enough nations still have (or recently have developed)
sufficient mutually assured destruction capabilities to slag the
planet. And we remember what happened to the last President who tried
to STOP a nuclear war.
We also remember what happened the last time a President invaded the
wrong country for an act of war committed on American soil.
73
Jim N6OTQ
PS -- Obligatory electronics tech content -- a few years back, I gave
my wife a gag gift to give to her MD boss who'd just installed a new
X-ray machine. It was a cold-war era radiation dosimeter pen, the
kind you looked through and when you couldn't see through it any more,
it meant that you'd been over-exposed to radiation. Freshly removed
from its 50-some year-old lead envelope. She carried it in her purse
for a couple of years, and ... now it's completely black inside. So
either background radiation got it, or else the doc's X-ray machine
got her.
-- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: What removes sticker residue without hurting the blue paint?
73,
Bill, WA2DVU
Cape May
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Kevin Oconnor Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 9:12 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [TekScopes] What removes sticker residue without hurting the blue paint? This topic brought back memories from an unrelated area of my past. Years ago I was an avid home brewer and wine maker, and needed to recycle bottles with labels. I used a product called Straight-A Label Remover. 2tbsp/gal hot water and soak overnight. Even the most stubborn label would have sluffed off of its own weight by morning! Never was sure what was in it, but but it had that slick feel. Maybe highly ionic or something. Kjo
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Re: Help needed with no trace no beamfinder on 465 (not b)
So... getting back to it... After replacing Q1418 with a unit from a 464 that I have (also has a CRT fault). Q1416 shows very similar traces, all three the same (EBC), but now at about 150mV p-p (previously about 120mV p-p). The big change is Q1418 traces. There's much more DC bias now on the collector. See here: /g/TekScopes/photo/49286/11?p=Name,,,20,1,0,0 Current through F1419 still about 160mA. HV tp is around -72V. So... ??? Not sure how to proceed.
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Re: Anodize Scratch Removal
Hmmm...I too was going to suggest annodizing in situ.First clean the surface, and perhaps sandblast or bead blast with e.g. walnut shells (if you have that option) to match the surface roughness.? ?Then build a dam with wax around the area to hold some anodizing solution, and anodize the fresh scratches.
?Anodization is a VOLTAGE limited process.? When you anodize something at a constant current, it builds up oxide on the aluminum surface, which increases proportionally with the voltage applied.? There are two consequences to this.? ?1) you can adjust the thickness of the anodization by adjusting the applied voltage, and 2) the process is uniform.? Freshly exposed metal (i.e. scratched) will anodize preferentially over the adjacent already anodized area, so in principle you might be able to build up the surface over the scratches a bit and have them blend in better.? ?
I would be curious to see if this truly works on a finished panel, and I would certainly practice on junk parts first.? Post pictures!
? Dan
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On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 3:53:49 PM EDT, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote: On Thu, 14 Jun 2018 19:08:41 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: Probably best to sand it down and come up with some kind of paint to make it look decent.? I know of no patch for anodize finish that would have a chance of blending in. If the gouges have material above the surface (don't we adore customer property retention departments?), then you might remove the panel and try to roll (or very gently tap with a flat block) the material back into the grooves.? That may help a little. I'd also sand it as smooth as possible, that can give you a decent finish.? Naturally, that removes the anodize.? You may be able to anodize the exposed aluminum, but I'm not sure, haven't tried any of this. Another possibility would be to tap the gouges flat as above, then put in a completely non-original but perhaps stylish Tektronix logo over the disfigurement.? It's not a bug, it's a feature. Harvey Bob
? ? On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 10:43:07 AM PDT, <thespin@...> wrote:
Hey all,
I've just gotten a 1A4 plugin that has some numbers gouged deep into front. I'd like to do something to make it look better than having the numbers gouged in the front. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to cover up or remove scratches in aluminum anodize? It also looks like under the anodize, it's bead blasted or sand blasted or something to give the uniform finish. Not sure how to replicate this. Any suggestions?
Best,
Evan
|? | Virus-free. www.avast.com? |
|
Re: Anodize Scratch Removal
Hi Evan,
I once had an aluminum panel from an old Dumont scope stripped and then
anodized and I applied Dry Transfer Lettering. It took weeks to do all of
this. I did it to make the scope look more "modern". I was 18 at the time.
The scope was to be a gift for a friend. I was very proud of what I was up
to at the time. I look back on this now and have to laugh. I did show it to
my Tek Field Engineer and he figured out pretty quickly that this I had the
'Scope Bug". That led to an interview and a job offer at Tek followed by a
suggestion that I finish college first.
I, too, have plugins where some *!@#$%* moron used an electric engraving
tool to write deep into the surface of the front panel. I don't think there
is anything that can be done once the extremely hard aluminum oxide surface
film created by the anodizing process has been penetrated. I have concluded,
unfortunately, that there is realistically nothing that can be done. I have
resisted suggestions like Harvey's because it creates far more problems than
it solves. For instance:
* This entire process will be extremely time consuming (and time is money).
* It may not be possible to remove enough aluminum to reach the depth of
penetration of the engraving marks.
* Once you have removed the anodized surface the underlying aluminum is soft
and paint is not as hard as anodizing.
* You will have to replace all of the labels, etc.
It is possible to do your own anodizing. I once anodized the top and bottom
covers I made for my dual Shugart 8" drives that I built for my S100
computer. I did it in my bathtub. It was very tricky getting the entire
covers in the tub and into the anodizing chemicals since they were 17"
across and about 20" deep. But I did it and they looked good when I was
done. Just one of the crazy things I have dome in my life.
Anodizing is a way to increase the natural oxide coating that forms on the
surface of all metals. Anodizing changes the microscopic texture of the
surface and the crystal structure of the metal near the surface. Anodized
aluminum surfaces are harder than aluminum but have low to moderate wear
resistance that can be improved with increasing thickness or by applying
suitable sealing substances. The film of anodized aluminum is a form of
aluminum oxide. Ceramics are also made of aluminum oxide and they are
extremely hard. The surface of anodized aluminum is much stronger and more
adherent than most types of paint and metal plating, but also more brittle.
It is less likely to crack and peel from aging and wear, but more
susceptible to cracking from thermal stress.
Dennis Tillman W7PF
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Harvey White
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 12:54 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Anodize Scratch Removal
On Thu, 14 Jun 2018 19:08:41 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
Probably best to sand it down and come up with some kind of paint to make it look decent.? I know of no patch for anodize finish that would
have a chance of blending in.
If the gouges have material above the surface (don't we adore customer
property retention departments?), then you might remove the panel and
try to roll (or very gently tap with a flat block) the material back
into the grooves. That may help a little.
I'd also sand it as smooth as possible, that can give you a decent
finish. Naturally, that removes the anodize. You may be able to
anodize the exposed aluminum, but I'm not sure, haven't tried any of
this.
Another possibility would be to tap the gouges flat as above, then put
in a completely non-original but perhaps stylish Tektronix logo over
the disfigurement.
It's not a bug, it's a feature.
Harvey
Bob
On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 10:43:07 AM PDT, <thespin@...> wrote:
Hey all,
I've just gotten a 1A4 plugin that has some numbers gouged deep into
front. I'd like to do something to make it look better than having the
numbers gouged in the front. Does anyone have any suggestions for how
to cover up or remove scratches in aluminum anodize? It also looks
like under the anodize, it's bead blasted or sand blasted or something
to give the uniform finish. Not sure how to replicate this. Any
suggestions?
Best,
Evan
| | Virus-free. www.avast.com |
-- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator
|
Re: What removes sticker residue without hurting the blue paint?
TSP heh? They made a good margin on it then. Came in little packets to make 5 gal batch.
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
2215 sweep knob : looking for the locking hardware
Hi Group,
I am working on fixing a 2215 scope I bought the other day.
Didn't power up.. that's now fixed, was a dodgy Zener diode in the pre-regulator board of the SMPS. While waiting for new caps to arrive to recap the SMPS, I thought I would give it a good clean and pamper it. I need a little help finding a little mechanical part that broke.. :-/
It's the "screw" (not the usual lateral/set screw arrangement, but the central/concentric type screw) that holds the delayed sweep knob onto its shaft :
;attach=453070;image
Knob itself is fine. It's just the metal piece/"chuck", tapered, threaded, that bites the splined shaft when tightening the central nut... that I need. This appears to be made of the softest metal Tek could get... no, I swear I didn't use a hammer to tighten it... but still, the threaded part broke.
So if someone has a box of old stuff and maybe have this little part that would save this knob (from a different scope model possibly ?)... I would be very grateful indeed ! :-)
With some luck, does anyone know if this might possibly be some generic piece of hardware, that one could buy from god knows what hardware vendor on-line ? (any links appreciated ! )
What would be a correct name/terminology to describe this part, so I can use the appropriate keyword to try to find some ?
Hopefully one can get one made from a stronger metal...
Thanks for reading anyway....
Regards,
Vincent Trouilliez
|
Re: Anodize Scratch Removal
On Thu, 14 Jun 2018 19:08:41 +0000 (UTC), you wrote: Probably best to sand it down and come up with some kind of paint to make it look decent.? I know of no patch for anodize finish that would have a chance of blending in. If the gouges have material above the surface (don't we adore customer property retention departments?), then you might remove the panel and try to roll (or very gently tap with a flat block) the material back into the grooves. That may help a little. I'd also sand it as smooth as possible, that can give you a decent finish. Naturally, that removes the anodize. You may be able to anodize the exposed aluminum, but I'm not sure, haven't tried any of this. Another possibility would be to tap the gouges flat as above, then put in a completely non-original but perhaps stylish Tektronix logo over the disfigurement. It's not a bug, it's a feature. Harvey Bob
On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 10:43:07 AM PDT, <thespin@...> wrote:
Hey all,
I've just gotten a 1A4 plugin that has some numbers gouged deep into front. I'd like to do something to make it look better than having the numbers gouged in the front. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to cover up or remove scratches in aluminum anodize? It also looks like under the anodize, it's bead blasted or sand blasted or something to give the uniform finish. Not sure how to replicate this. Any suggestions?
Best,
Evan
| | Virus-free. www.avast.com |
|
Shannon Hill
Bill Riches
Vince