I do it three quick and dirty ways:
1. Buy suitable door hinges. The two screw holes are offset nicely. Get
the right ones, add heat sink and screw into the stud(s) to seat them flat
on top of u800. Add washers, or screws, where needed.
2. in DIY shops, buy tags with two holes, similar size to large paper
clips, and screw them on.
3. My favourite- get small thick copper plates , a little smaller in size
than u800. Get some valve/tube solder lugs. Use the lugs to solder onto the
cooper plate to hold the copper plate in place.

As long as the height of these heat sink does not exceed the height of the
two side screws, no fear of shorting voltage to casing.

Cslim

On Sunday, February 24, 2013, Patrick Wong wrote:

**


Hi Steve,

Here is one possible solution:
>

Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the
cabinet bottom.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, Steve wrote:

I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing

that?

Regarding the 40% CH1 and CH2 error, are you using the 50 ohm input or the 1M ohm input? If the former, are you accounting for the voltage drop associated with the low impedance input?

I agree that a low voltage PS recap may address the sawtooth issue.
Good luck,

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., "machineguy59" <machineguy59@> wrote:

...Also, measured ampltudes on channels 1 and 2 seem about 60% of actual but amplitudes on Channel(s) 3 and 4 seem about right (certainly within calibration range).

...If its worth the repair I would recap the LVPS as others here have done, that seems simple enough and an obviously wise investment. In fact, this recap may correct the vertical sawtooth and perhaps the blurry text. But I dont think it will change the vertical gain/calibration to correct for the 40% error.

Regarding the 40% CH1 and CH2 error, are you using the 50 ohm input or the 1M ohm input? If the former, are you accounting for the voltage drop associated with the low impedance input?

I agree that a low voltage PS recap may address the sawtooth issue.
Good luck,

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., "machineguy59" <machineguy59@> wrote:

...Also, measured ampltudes on channels 1 and 2 seem about 60% of actual but amplitudes on Channel(s) 3 and 4 seem about right (certainly within calibration range).

...If its worth the repair I would recap the LVPS as others here have done, that seems simple enough and an obviously wise investment. In fact, this recap may correct the vertical sawtooth and perhaps the blurry text. But I dont think it will change the vertical gain/calibration to correct for the 40% error.

?

Hi Steve,

Here is one possible solution:
>

Basically a low-profile heat sink is needed that will not contact the cabinet bottom.

Patrick Wong AK6C

--- In TekScopes@..., Steve wrote:
>
> I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
> Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing that?

Good point. I accidentally switched the last two. It is indeed 34/28 AWG.

Don't mind me butting in, Chris.
I would strongly suggest that you finish all your exams first and then come
back to spend time on the scope. The scope can wait. To relax your tired
mind after intensive periods of study, the troubleshooting is wonderful for
a short while.

I remember one of my teacher's advice : a divided mind cannot generate full
power. Focus on your studies for now.
Go and get your distinctions and As; am sure yahoo group wanted you to do
well in your studies.

Cslim

On Sunday, February 24, 2013, Chris wrote:

**


I'm apparently unable to convey a clear message today lol.

Lets try this again - I meant to say all voltages came within 0.3V of
their intended values. Cross checking them to the values they should be,
with the +/- allowed range, they all fall easily within range.

And in my last sentence "with the 87v diode for U800 listed " should read
lifted, not listed.

One of those days! (Bouncing between studying for my physics
electrostatics exam and troubleshooting the scope) :)
Thanks for the help!
Chris

--- In TekScopes@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, "Chris" wrote:

Oh, yeah the 87v supply comes up to 86.7V I guess I should have been

clearer in my prior message when I said that all the voltages came up to
within 0.03V of their intended values - that was referring to the 87, 42,
15 and 5v lines that were all low (all 9v or under) initially. Lifting
Q1223 brought all the voltages in line, so that prompted the look at U800.
Lifting the diode for U800 brought all voltages up to spec with a "normal"
boot up, minus any horizontal display movements. Since everything came into
spec and it booted with the 87v diode for U800 listed I didn't bother
looking at U950 since U800 seems the apparent issue.

Sorry, hope that clears it up.

Thanks!
Chris

--- In TekScopes@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',

'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, DaveC wrote:

Chris,
Measure the 87v supply with those doides unsolsered. THAT will tell us

something.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 23, 2013, at 3:26 PM, "Chris" wrote:

As a quick side note - I powered the scope up with the diode

lifted(far side of the diode from U800, easier to desolder and lift), and
pin 7 (the 87v input) of U800 shows -3.98V to -4.00V when the scope is
powered up with the far leg of the diode in the air. Not sure if that tells
you guys anything helpful though.

Chris

--- In TekScopes@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',

'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, "Chris" wrote:

I lifted the diode CR807 feeding the +87v to the U800 IC and when I

powered it up it booted up just like with I lifted Q1223 from the regulator
board - Looks like it's U800. With U800 the panel controls boot up as
normal, the LED's flash on/off and then onto the set positions. The screen
turns on to a normal intensity, all traces will show up as points and I can
control their vertical positions, but no horizontal traces or horizontal
positions.

With U800's 87v feed disconnected, all of the voltages come up to

within 0.03V of their intended voltages.

So I'm not quite sure where this leaves me yet. Being I don't know

what the internal structure of U800 is, I'm not sure what to look for
outside of U800. I know U800 hasn't been manufactured for years and is only
available as a used and removed component. I read about the re-bake
program, but it would seem mine falls under a different failure method than
the re-bake program can fix. There's some available on e-bay for ~$120.00
shipped from China. Is it worth trying to swap it out with a Chinese
salvaged part? Or is there another supplier of the salvage parts I'm not
aware of?

You guys know these scopes better than I, and your guidance is much

appreciated! I owe a huge thank-you to all of you who have helped me get
this far!

Chris

--- In TekScopes@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',

'TekScopes%40yahoogroups.com');>, "Tom Miller" wrote:

There are two diodes off the +87, one to U800 and one to U950.

Both devices are known to have issues. You might just lift one end of each
diode and see if the 87 volts comes up. That will isolate which device is
causing the problem.

For reference, see diagram 11, power distribution.

Tom

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

I've seen reference to additional cooling for U800 in several postings.
Is there somewhere on the internet that suggests how to go about doing that?

I agree with David. Change all the power supply caps. See the condoraudio site. Some capacitors are not doing its job. Power is needed to deflect the beam away from the centre of the screen. As you said, the sawtooth distortion is already on the calibrator waveform, indicating that some caps are failing.

Add cooling to u800 immediately. That and the power cap change are the two things you need to do Immediately on getting any 2465 scope.


On Sunday, February 24, 2013, David wrote:

From your description the 2465 basically works and you have a pretty
good idea where to start repairs. I would at least rebuild the power
supply and then see how the oscilloscope performs.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 22:55:30 -0000, "machineguy59"
machineguy59@... <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
'machineguy59%40yahoo.com');>> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I joined this group after buying my second Tek Scope, a 2465, at
a very good price because it has begun to deteriorate. So now I am
cleaning up my 2465. I am hoping to get clear, clean traces and
better utility than my 2235 I have been using. I will apreciate
any and all advice, suggestions, etc. I get fom the other members
here.
>
>My first complaint is the vertical channels 1 and 2 have a
sawtooth noise on the trace. Channels 3 and 4 are clean and clear.
The sawtooth on Channels 1 and 2 looks to be about 25 kHZ with an
amplitude that is greater when the trace is farther from the
center. In fact, the traces are clear and clean if they are
centered vertically with no input. Changing vertical position
causes the sawtooth to appear and it grows as the trace is moved
farther from center. Its magnitude diminishes as the scope warms
up but never goes away.The sawtooth seems to ride on top of the
calibration waveform as it is viewed on the trace (the calibration
looks clean when viewed in Channels 3 and 4). So my opinion is the
sawtooth is added to the measured signal and trace position
somewhere in the vertical pre-amp(s). Also, measured ampltudes on
channels 1 and 2 seem about 60% of actual but amplitudes on
Channel(s) 3 and 4 seem about right (certainly within calibration
range).
>
>My second complaint is the alphanumeric readout text is more
blurry than I remember from years ago. But it could just be that
my eyes are more blurry, lol. But I remember the text being as
crisp and clear as the traces when I was working. (But I cant be
certain I was using a 2465, it could have been 2465A or 2465B). I
only know if I can, I will sharpen the text.
>
>My third complaint is the LED indicators for switch position seem
a bit dim. But then again, it may be my eyes goign dim, lol.
>
>Neither complaint 2 nor 3 are important, but complaint 1 is a
show stopper I must repair.
>
>My question of any kind and knowledgable soul is: "Do you think
its worth repairing or do I have a bag of parts?" I think its well
worth repairing but would apreciate knowledgable advice. Its a
2465, not 2465B, and it appears to have been refurbed/recaled in
the late 90's (sticky labels on EEPROMS say 1996).
>
>If its worth the repair I would recap the LVPS as others here
have done, that seems simple enough and an obviously wise
investment. In fact, this recap may correct the vertical sawtooth
and perhaps the blurry text. But I dont think it will change the
vertical gain/calibration to correct for the 40% error.
>
>I really dont want to do major work on the Main board (A1)
because that can be extensive. But I will if its simple enough and
likely to work. These are great scopes and this one is
cosmetically very good.
>
>I WILL also add cooling of some kind to U800 if everything else
turns out OK.
>
>So what do you think? repair/refurb or part it out and look for
something else?

...Also, measured ampltudes on channels 1 and 2 seem about 60% of actual but amplitudes on Channel(s) 3 and 4 seem about right (certainly within calibration range).

...If its worth the repair I would recap the LVPS as others here have done, that seems simple enough and an obviously wise investment. In fact, this recap may correct the vertical sawtooth and perhaps the blurry text. But I dont think it will change the vertical gain/calibration to correct for the 40% error.

?

From your description the 2465 basically works and you have a pretty
good idea where to start repairs. I would at least rebuild the power
supply and then see how the oscilloscope performs.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 22:55:30 -0000, "machineguy59"
machineguy59@...> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I joined this group after buying my second Tek Scope, a 2465, at a very good price because it has begun to deteriorate. So now I am cleaning up my 2465. I am hoping to get clear, clean traces and better utility than my 2235 I have been using. I will apreciate any and all advice, suggestions, etc. I get fom the other members here.
>
>My first complaint is the vertical channels 1 and 2 have a sawtooth noise on the trace. Channels 3 and 4 are clean and clear. The sawtooth on Channels 1 and 2 looks to be about 25 kHZ with an amplitude that is greater when the trace is farther from the center. In fact, the traces are clear and clean if they are centered vertically with no input. Changing vertical position causes the sawtooth to appear and it grows as the trace is moved farther from center. Its magnitude diminishes as the scope warms up but never goes away.The sawtooth seems to ride on top of the calibration waveform as it is viewed on the trace (the calibration looks clean when viewed in Channels 3 and 4). So my opinion is the sawtooth is added to the measured signal and trace position somewhere in the vertical pre-amp(s). Also, measured ampltudes on channels 1 and 2 seem about 60% of actual but amplitudes on Channel(s) 3 and 4 seem about right (certainly within calibration range).
>
>My second complaint is the alphanumeric readout text is more blurry than I remember from years ago. But it could just be that my eyes are more blurry, lol. But I remember the text being as crisp and clear as the traces when I was working. (But I cant be certain I was using a 2465, it could have been 2465A or 2465B). I only know if I can, I will sharpen the text.
>
>My third complaint is the LED indicators for switch position seem a bit dim. But then again, it may be my eyes goign dim, lol.
>
>Neither complaint 2 nor 3 are important, but complaint 1 is a show stopper I must repair.
>
>My question of any kind and knowledgable soul is: "Do you think its worth repairing or do I have a bag of parts?" I think its well worth repairing but would apreciate knowledgable advice. Its a 2465, not 2465B, and it appears to have been refurbed/recaled in the late 90's (sticky labels on EEPROMS say 1996).
>
>If its worth the repair I would recap the LVPS as others here have done, that seems simple enough and an obviously wise investment. In fact, this recap may correct the vertical sawtooth and perhaps the blurry text. But I dont think it will change the vertical gain/calibration to correct for the 40% error.
>
>I really dont want to do major work on the Main board (A1) because that can be extensive. But I will if its simple enough and likely to work. These are great scopes and this one is cosmetically very good.
>
>I WILL also add cooling of some kind to U800 if everything else turns out OK.
>
>So what do you think? repair/refurb or part it out and look for something else?

?

I'm apparently unable to convey a clear message today lol.

Lets try this again - I meant to say all voltages came within 0.3V of their intended values. Cross checking them to the values they should be, with the +/- allowed range, they all fall easily within range.

And in my last sentence "with the 87v diode for U800 listed " should read lifted, not listed.

One of those days! (Bouncing between studying for my physics electrostatics exam and troubleshooting the scope) :)
Thanks for the help!
Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., "Chris" wrote:
>
> Oh, yeah the 87v supply comes up to 86.7V I guess I should have been clearer in my prior message when I said that all the voltages came up to within 0.03V of their intended values - that was referring to the 87, 42, 15 and 5v lines that were all low (all 9v or under) initially. Lifting Q1223 brought all the voltages in line, so that prompted the look at U800. Lifting the diode for U800 brought all voltages up to spec with a "normal" boot up, minus any horizontal display movements. Since everything came into spec and it booted with the 87v diode for U800 listed I didn't bother looking at U950 since U800 seems the apparent issue.
>
> Sorry, hope that clears it up.
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
>
> --- In TekScopes@..., DaveC wrote:
> >
> > Chris,
> > Measure the 87v supply with those doides unsolsered. THAT will tell us something.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Feb 23, 2013, at 3:26 PM, "Chris" wrote:
> >
> > > As a quick side note - I powered the scope up with the diode lifted(far side of the diode from U800, easier to desolder and lift), and pin 7 (the 87v input) of U800 shows -3.98V to -4.00V when the scope is powered up with the far leg of the diode in the air. Not sure if that tells you guys anything helpful though.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > --- In TekScopes@..., "Chris" wrote:
> > >>
> > >> I lifted the diode CR807 feeding the +87v to the U800 IC and when I powered it up it booted up just like with I lifted Q1223 from the regulator board - Looks like it's U800. With U800 the panel controls boot up as normal, the LED's flash on/off and then onto the set positions. The screen turns on to a normal intensity, all traces will show up as points and I can control their vertical positions, but no horizontal traces or horizontal positions.
> > >>
> > >> With U800's 87v feed disconnected, all of the voltages come up to within 0.03V of their intended voltages.
> > >>
> > >> So I'm not quite sure where this leaves me yet. Being I don't know what the internal structure of U800 is, I'm not sure what to look for outside of U800. I know U800 hasn't been manufactured for years and is only available as a used and removed component. I read about the re-bake program, but it would seem mine falls under a different failure method than the re-bake program can fix. There's some available on e-bay for ~$120.00 shipped from China. Is it worth trying to swap it out with a Chinese salvaged part? Or is there another supplier of the salvage parts I'm not aware of?
> > >>
> > >> You guys know these scopes better than I, and your guidance is much appreciated! I owe a huge thank-you to all of you who have helped me get this far!
> > >> Chris
> > >>
> > >> --- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> There are two diodes off the +87, one to U800 and one to U950. Both devices are known to have issues. You might just lift one end of each diode and see if the 87 volts comes up. That will isolate which device is causing the problem.
> > >>>
> > >>> For reference, see diagram 11, power distribution.
> > >>>
> > >>> Tom
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

After looking at the TM506 manual and the Rear Interface Databook, I am a little confused about the TM500 extender cable construction.

The cable is clearly made up using 17 larger wires and 34 smaller wires (so, right there is the first question: that makes 51 connections out of a possible 56 ... what's not connected?).

Both manuals show pins 1-13 (A and B) are for power and pins 14-28 (A and B) are for custom signal connections. One would thus expect the extender cable to be made up of 26 larger wires and 30 smaller wires. So apparently some of the power connections are made using smaller wires, and some connections are not made at all.

Does anyone know how the larger and smaller wires in the extender cable that Tektronix made are connected to the connectors?

Thanks.

Cheers,
DaveD

only non residue (or very low residue) spray cleaners should be used on high frequency components!
WD40 leaves a lot of residue, even if you don't see it.

--- On Sat, 2/23/13, HankC <hankc918@...> wrote:

From: HankC <hankc918@...>
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula
To: "TekScopes@..." <TekScopes@...>
Date: Saturday, February 23, 2013, 5:37 PM
















??









I've had good luck on cruddy BNC's with Radio Shack spray "tuner" cleaner.I'll bet WD-40 would work too.
You can buy pipe cleaners that have some stiffer bristles embedded in the fluffy fabric.They work good on stubborn stuff in tight places. Or, you could loop it around a BNC shell & "shoe-shine" it.
You may have to look in a tobacco shop.

HankC, BostonWA1HOS
From: "TekScopes@..." <TekScopes@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 9:13 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Digest Number 7370








































All about classic Tektronix CRT o'scopes













All about classic Tektronix CRT o'scopes Group












15 New
Messages


Digest #7370














1




535 and 585 4 sale



by
"Ron"
themotorman4








2a




Tek 567 spotted in 1967 DEC Logic Handbook



by
"sipespresso"
sipespresso







2b




Re: Tek 567 spotted in 1967 DEC Logic Handbook



by
widgethunter








3




Re: [TekScopes2] Oil of Wintergreen



by
"DaveC"
davec2468








4a




Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors??? Magic formula



by
"Daniel Koller"
kaboomdk







4b




Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic form



by
ronbussiere







4c




Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors??? Magic for



by
"Daniel Koller"
kaboomdk







4d




Tek 2465b display drifting up and down



by
"Scott Harris"
bldrbldr5







4e




Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic form



by
"Cliff White"
kf5iyl







4f




Re: Tek 2465b display drifting up and down



by
"David"
david_william_hess







4g




Re: Tek 2465b display drifting up and down



by
"Scott Harris"
scottrharris







4h




Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors??? Magic for



by
"Rob"
doswoodman@...








5a




Re: 2456B whole display moved up on the CRT



by
"scottrharris"
scottrharris








6




OT: Datatek Video Sweep Generator D631 manual wanted



by
"Max Mazza"
unclebanjoman








7




Tek 475A on CraigsList SF area



by
"Dave C"
davec2468

















Messages






1





535 and 585 4 sale






Fri Feb??22,??2013 8:30??am (PST) . Posted by:




"Ron" themotorman4





I have these almost since they were new and now need to find a good home for them both. The tubes are good nice sharp traces, but the 585 needs a HV cap replaced, and the 535 is slow to warm up..I live in Southern California so shipping is a nuisance unless local. However I will ship anywhere if you pay shipping. Will sell together separately. Best offer taken as must go by end of March.

Thanks guys...
















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.



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.



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.



All Messages
(1)



.



Top ^












2a





Tek 567 spotted in 1967 DEC Logic Handbook






Fri Feb??22,??2013 9:33??am (PST) . Posted by:




"sipespresso" sipespresso





On page xx of the preface:



. com/logichandboo kmar67_tek567. jpg
















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2b





Re: Tek 567 spotted in 1967 DEC Logic Handbook






Fri Feb??22,??2013 12:12??pm (PST) . Posted by:




widgethunter





Very nice!





In a message dated 2/22/2013 9:33:26 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,

sipespresso@ yahoo.com writes:



On page xx of the preface:



_. com/logichandboo kmar67_tek567. jpg_

(. com/logichandboo kmar67_tek567. jpg)
















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3





Re: [TekScopes2] Oil of Wintergreen






Fri Feb??22,??2013 11:39??am (PST) . Posted by:




"DaveC" davec2468





Thanks for that Mark. Another tool in the box.



Dave



Sent from my iPhone



On Feb 22, 2013, at 10:46 AM, "mark101234&qu ot; mhb55@...> wrote:

I am not sure how many people are aware of Oil of Wintergreen penetrating properties, so I though I would point it out. Oil of wintergreen is very wet,it will creep into very close fits.

I have used it to free up stuck set screws in knobs, a few drops down the hole and let it sit for an hour and the screw will come right out.

Some pots when new had damping grease applied to the shaft/bushing area, as they age they become very difficult to turn. Two or three drops of Oil of Wintergreen in the shaft/bushing area and let it sit over night, positioned to let the oil run down the shaft and the pot will turn like new.

Synthetic Oil of Wintergreen does not seem to work as well as the real stuff. The real stuff is not cheep, .5 fl.oz. is about $7.00. It can be had at Drug stores and good cooking stores. A bottle lasts me about 10 years.

Oil of Wintergreen appears to be very inert I have not had it affect rubber or any plastics,unlike some commercial products. I am not sure about it's long term lubrication properties, it may be a good idea to follow it up with an oil.

I hope this proves as useful to others as it has been to me, besides the gear smells nice afterward.

Mark Bradley K6TAF

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4a





Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors??? Magic formula






Fri Feb??22,??2013 12:32??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Daniel Koller" kaboomdk





Hi folks,



?? I am sure this has been asked before, so please point me to the correct links if so. ??A quick search of the archives didn't find anything easily.



?? How does one clean the nickel-plated adapters and input connectors of old scopes? ??I am thinking of two situations here. ??The first is the BNC or UHF connectors on the panels of the scopes, that cannot be easily removed. ??The second case is things like BNC T's and BNC to UHF adapters and the like which are small and can be completely dipped in some cleaning solution.



?? I have a number of adapters and connectors where the nickel is getting black, and they are filthy. ??I would Ideally like to deoxidize them so they come out shiny and new. ??Some sort of chemical dip or a series of washes would be preferred, where I can keep the amount of physical scrubbing required to a minimum. ??I envision perhaps scrubbing once with a toothbrush (maybe with tooth paste?),??wrinsing?? in an ultrasonic bath, then dipping them in some magic formula that shines them up. ??Connectors on the scope would have to be brushed and washed in-situ.



?? The question is, what is the magic formula?



?? Thanks.



?? Dan












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4b





Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic form






Fri Feb??22,??2013 12:42??pm (PST) . Posted by:




ronbussiere





Hi Dan. On all the TE I have, the connectors appear to be Silver plated. You could (!) carefully clean them with "Tarnex" liquid. Then clean off that stuff with Windex, etc.

Most of the time, I simply give then a quick brushing with a stainless steel detail brush, which looks like a toothbrush.



ron

N4UE





-----Original Message-----

From: Daniel Koller kaboomdk@yahoo. com>

To: TekScopes TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com>

Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 3:33 pm

Subject: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula?



Hi folks,



I am sure this has been asked before, so please point me to the correct links if so. A quick search of the archives didn't find anything easily.



How does one clean t he nickel-plated adapters and input connectors of old scopes? I am thinking of two situations here. The first is the BNC or UHF connectors on the panels of the scopes, that cannot be easily removed. The second case is things like BNC T's and BNC to UHF adapters and the like which are small and can be completely dipped in some cleaning solution.



I have a number of adapters and connectors where the nickel is getting black, and they are filthy. I would Ideally like to deoxidize them so they come out shiny and new. Some sort of chemical dip or a series of washes would be preferred, where I can keep the amount of physical scrubbing required to a minimum. I envision perhaps scrubbing once with a toothbrush (maybe with tooth paste?), wrinsing in an ultrasonic bath, then dipping them in some magic formula that shines them up. Connectors on the scope would have to be brushed and washed in-situ.



The question is, what is the magic formula?



Thanks.



Dan
















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.



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4c





Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors??? Magic for






Fri Feb??22,??2013 12:52??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Daniel Koller" kaboomdk





Good point! ??I wasn't really thinking. ??They likely are mostly silver since they tarnished black. ??Nickel will probably go greenish (or perhaps that's from the copper underneath that oxidize on a couple connectors I have).



If the concern with the Tarnex is removing it, at least on the adaptors I can sonicate them in warm water and that should be effective in removing the solution after a couple??rinses.



Dan



____________ _________ _________ __

From: "bonddaleena@ aol.com" bonddaleena@ aol.com>

To: TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com

Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 3:42 PM

Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula?





??

Hi Dan. On all the TE I have, the connectors appear to be Silver plated. You could (!) carefully clean them with "Tarnex" liquid. Then clean off that stuff with Windex, etc.

Most of the time, I simply give then a quick brushing with a stainless steel detail brush, which looks like a toothbrush.



ron

N4UE??



-----Original Message-----

From: Daniel Koller kaboomdk@yahoo. com>

To: TekScopes TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com>

Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 3:33 pm

Subject: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula?



??

Hi folks,



?? I am sure this has been asked before, so please point me to the correct links if so. ??A quick search of the archives didn't find anything easily.



?? How does one clean t he nickel-plated adapters and input connectors of old scopes? ??I am thinking of two situations here. ??The first is the BNC or UHF connectors on the panels of the scopes, that cannot be easily removed. ??The second case is things like BNC T's and BNC to UHF adapters and the like which are small and can be completely dipped in some cleaning solution.



?? I have a number of adapters and connectors where the nickel is getting black, and they are filthy. ??I would Ideally like to deoxidize them so they come out shiny and new. ??Some sort of chemical dip or a series of washes would be preferred, where I can keep the amount of physical scrubbing required to a minimum. ??I envision perhaps scrubbing once with a toothbrush (maybe with tooth paste?),??wrinsing?? in an ultrasonic bath, then dipping them in some magic formula that shines them up. ??Connectors on the scope would have to be brushed and washed in-situ.



?? The question is, what is the magic formula?



?? Thanks.



?? Dan














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Tek 2465b display drifting up and down






Fri Feb??22,??2013 1:34??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Scott Harris" bldrbldr5





I just received a 2465b and it seemed fine on my initial check. However, after leaving it on for several minutes, the readout and display started to drift up and down. At times, the top of the readout was off the screen.



I spent a few minutes searching but didn't find any other posts describing a similar issue. I'll keep looking.



I'm going to open it and check all the voltage rails and look for leaky caps.



Does this problem ring a bell with anyone? Any hints or pointers?



Thanks,

-Scott














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4e





Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic form






Fri Feb??22,??2013 2:08??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Cliff White" kf5iyl





If you can get to all of it, a pencil eraser actually works pretty well.

It would be tougher to get around the base, though.



On 02/22/2013 02:52 PM, Daniel Koller wrote:

Good point! I wasn't really thinking. They likely are mostly silver

since they tarnished black. Nickel will probably go greenish (or

perhaps that's from the copper underneath that oxidize on a couple

connectors I have).

If the concern with the Tarnex is removing it, at least on the

adaptors I can sonicate them in warm water and that should be

effective in removing the solution after a couple rinses.

Dan

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

*From:* "bonddaleena@ aol.com" bonddaleena@ aol.com>

*To:* TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com

*Sent:* Friday, February 22, 2013 3:42 PM

*Subject:* Re: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input

connectors? Magic formula?

Hi Dan. On all the TE I have, the connectors appear to be Silver

plated. You could (!) carefully clean them with "Tarnex" liquid. Then

clean off that stuff with Windex, etc.

Most of the time, I simply give then a quick brushing with a stainless

steel detail brush, which looks like a toothbrush.

ron

N4UE

-----Original Message-----

From: Daniel Koller kaboomdk@yahoo. com>

To: TekScopes TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com>

Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 3:33 pm

Subject: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input

connectors? Magic formula?

Hi folks,

I am sure this has been asked before, so please point me to the

correct links if so. A quick search of the archives didn't find

anything easily.

How does one clean t he nickel-plated adapters and input connectors

of old scopes? I am thinking of two situations here. The first is

the BNC or UHF connectors on the panels of the scopes, that cannot be

easily removed. The second case is things like BNC T's and BNC to UHF

adapters and the like which are small and can be completely dipped in

some cleaning solution.

I have a number of adapters and connectors where the nickel is

getting black, and they are filthy. I would Ideally like to deoxidize

them so they come out shiny and new. Some sort of chemical dip or a

series of washes would be preferred, where I can keep the amount of

physical scrubbing required to a minimum. I envision perhaps

scrubbing once with a toothbrush (maybe with tooth paste?), wrinsing

in an ultrasonic bath, then dipping them in some magic formula that

shines them up. Connectors on the scope would have to be brushed and

washed in-situ.

The question is, what is the magic formula?

Thanks.

Dan

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4f





Re: Tek 2465b display drifting up and down






Fri Feb??22,??2013 4:08??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"David" david_william_hess





I would start looking on schematic 6 since the vertical drift affects

everything. If it is a failure in U600 or U400 then there is not much

to be done but there are other possible.



The channel switch digital inputs which select what to display, VS1

through VS4, might not be switching all of the way.



The vertical centering signal into pin 39 of U600 might be drifting. I

would disconnect the dynamic centering and then adjust the vertical

and horizontal centering adjustment and see how that changes things.



Do all 4 input channels work over the full vertical range of the CRT

without any non-linearity?



On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 14:34:35 -0700, Scott Harris

scottrharris@ gmail.com> wrote:

I just received a 2465b and it seemed fine on my initial check. However, after leaving it on for several minutes, the readout and display started to drift up and down. At times, the top of the readout was off the screen.

I spent a few minutes searching but didn't find any other posts describing a similar issue. I'll keep looking.

I'm going to open it and check all the voltage rails and look for leaky caps.

Does this problem ring a bell with anyone? Any hints or pointers?

Thanks,

-Scott

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4g





Re: Tek 2465b display drifting up and down






Fri Feb??22,??2013 4:48??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Scott Harris" scottrharris





Thanks for the advice. All four channels looked reasonable and I didn't notice any non-linearity, but I only spent a few minutes with the scope. I'll get methodical next.



I did notice some crosstalk between Ch1 and Ch2, when I was feeding 100 MHz, 1Vrms into Ch2, so I'll take a look at the switches too.



Thanks,

-Scott

On Feb 22, 2013, at 5:07 PM, David davidwhess@gmail. com> wrote:

I would start looking on schematic 6 since the vertical drift affects

everything. If it is a failure in U600 or U400 then there is not much

to be done but there are other possible.

The channel switch digital inputs which select what to display, VS1

through VS4, might not be switching all of the way.

The vertical centering signal into pin 39 of U600 might be drifting. I

would disconnect the dynamic centering and then adjust the vertical

and horizontal centering adjustment and see how that changes things.

Do all 4 input channels work over the full vertical range of the CRT

without any non-linearity?

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 14:34:35 -0700, Scott Harris

scottrharris@ gmail.com> wrote:

I just received a 2465b and it seemed fine on my initial check. However, after leaving it on for several minutes, the readout and display started to drift up and down. At times, the top of the readout was off the screen.

I spent a few minutes searching but didn't find any other posts describing a similar issue. I'll keep looking.

I'm going to open it and check all the voltage rails and look for leaky caps.

Does this problem ring a bell with anyone? Any hints or pointers?

Thanks,

-Scott

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4h





Re: Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors??? Magic for






Fri Feb??22,??2013 6:13??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Rob" doswoodman@...





Tarnex is the best I have found if you want to be quick and consistent. I think the amount of metal loss is trivial. Rinse and neutralization are key.



Most all of the ???????wives tale???????? methods of silver detarnishment ???????bam made up a word???????. work as well. A web search will delineate them better than I can. I cannot think of any that would cause major damage.



On a side track, I have become intrigued by reverse electrolysis methods of both cleaning rusted iron and tarnished silver and aluminum. Archeological metal restoration. By and large all of them work by making the material you want to clean/derust/ deoxidize the positive place it in an electrolyte solution (preferably with one of the salt constituents the metal of interest if not then a gass/inert)???????throw in a suitable sacrificial material on the negative???????. and then???????..the key is???????.. low current vs. high???????.



In any event, I realize very un technical in my description above as I have not perfected anything yet and tried to keep it general. I have however brought some old military connectors and other things I am restoring back to brilliant condition. (not to much better than a Tarnex treatment in the case of connectors hence starting with that).



Anyway, hopefully helpful



Rob



From: TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com [mailto:TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com] On Behalf Of Cliff White

Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 4:08 PM

To: TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com

Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula?



If you can get to all of it, a pencil eraser actually works pretty well. It would be tougher to get around the base, though.



On 02/22/2013 02:52 PM, Daniel Koller wrote:



Good point! I wasn't really thinking. They likely are mostly silver since they tarnished black. Nickel will probably go greenish (or perhaps that's from the copper underneath that oxidize on a couple connectors I have).



If the concern with the Tarnex is removing it, at least on the adaptors I can sonicate them in warm water and that should be effective in removing the solution after a couple rinses.



Dan



_____



From: bonddaleena@ aol.combonddaleena@ aol.com" bonddaleena@ aol.com> bonddaleena@ aol.com>

To: TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com

Sent: Friday, February 22, 2013 3:42 PM

Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula?



Hi Dan. On all the TE I have, the connectors appear to be Silver plated. You could (!) carefully clean them with "Tarnex" liquid. Then clean off that stuff with Windex, etc.

Most of the time, I simply give then a quick brushing with a stainless steel detail brush, which looks like a toothbrush.



ron

N4UE



-----Original Message-----

From: Daniel Koller kaboomdk@yahoo. com> kaboomdk@yahoo. com>

To: TekScopes TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com> TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com>

Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 3:33 pm

Subject: [TekScopes] Cleaning nickel-plated adapters and input connectors? Magic formula?



Hi folks,



I am sure this has been asked before, so please point me to the correct links if so. A quick search of the archives didn't find anything easily.



How does one clean t he nickel-plated adapters and input connectors of old scopes? I am thinking of two situations here. The first is the BNC or UHF connectors on the panels of the scopes, that cannot be easily removed. The second case is things like BNC T's and BNC to UHF adapters and the like which are small and can be completely dipped in some cleaning solution.



I have a number of adapters and connectors where the nickel is getting black, and they are filthy. I would Ideally like to deoxidize them so they come out shiny and new. Some sort of chemical dip or a series of washes would be preferred, where I can keep the amount of physical scrubbing required to a minimum. I envision perhaps scrubbing once with a toothbrush (maybe with tooth paste?), wrinsing in an ultrasonic bath, then dipping them in some magic formula that shines them up. Connectors on the scope would have to be brushed and washed in-situ.



The question is, what is the magic formula?



Thanks.



Dan
















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.



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.



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.



All Messages
(8)



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Top ^












5a





Re: 2456B whole display moved up on the CRT






Fri Feb??22,??2013 2:28??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"scottrharris" scottrharris





Have you made any progress on this issue? I just received a 2465b today and it does the same thing after warming up for a while.



Good luck!

-Scott



--- In TekScopes@yahoogrou ps.com, "allegretto2a& quot; wrote:

My trusty 2465B now has a vertically offset display on the CRT. The bottom of the normal display is now at mid-point. Has anyone seen and solved this problem? Where do I look for the source of this problem?

Thanks, AL

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6





OT: Datatek Video Sweep Generator D631 manual wanted






Fri Feb??22,??2013 4:10??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Max Mazza" unclebanjoman





Does anyone knows a source for the service and user manual of this instrument (Datatek video sweep generator model D631)???



Thanks in advance,



Max
















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7





Tek 475A on CraigsList SF area






Fri Feb??22,??2013 6:10??pm (PST) . Posted by:




"Dave C" davec2468





. craigslist. org/eby/ele/ 3637029844. html



Just saw it...



FYI,

Dave
















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?

On 02/23/2013 09:21 AM, Egge Siert wrote:
> Good point. I accidentally switched the last two. It is indeed 34/28 AWG.

Hi Egge,

Is it that thin? 34 AWG and 28 AWG? Those are power handling wires for the
pass transistors, and 28 seems thin...

?

On 02/23/2013 09:05 AM, Dave Daniel wrote:
> Presumably the spec may thus be interpreted as "17 conductors of #20 AWG and 34 conductors of #28 AWG".

Dang! Is it really 20 Gauge? I just found some surplus fire sale 22 AWG ribbon cable for sale...

Oh, yeah the 87v supply comes up to 86.7V I guess I should have been clearer in my prior message when I said that all the voltages came up to within 0.03V of their intended values - that was referring to the 87, 42, 15 and 5v lines that were all low (all 9v or under) initially. Lifting Q1223 brought all the voltages in line, so that prompted the look at U800. Lifting the diode for U800 brought all voltages up to spec with a "normal" boot up, minus any horizontal display movements. Since everything came into spec and it booted with the 87v diode for U800 listed I didn't bother looking at U950 since U800 seems the apparent issue.

Sorry, hope that clears it up.

Thanks!
Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., DaveC <davec2468@> wrote:

Chris,
Measure the 87v supply with those doides unsolsered. THAT will tell us something.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 23, 2013, at 3:26 PM, "Chris" <ckleman@> wrote:

As a quick side note - I powered the scope up with the diode lifted(far side of the diode from U800, easier to desolder and lift), and pin 7 (the 87v input) of U800 shows -3.98V to -4.00V when the scope is powered up with the far leg of the diode in the air. Not sure if that tells you guys anything helpful though.

Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., "Chris" <ckleman@> wrote:

I lifted the diode CR807 feeding the +87v to the U800 IC and when I powered it up it booted up just like with I lifted Q1223 from the regulator board - Looks like it's U800. With U800 the panel controls boot up as normal, the LED's flash on/off and then onto the set positions. The screen turns on to a normal intensity, all traces will show up as points and I can control their vertical positions, but no horizontal traces or horizontal positions.

With U800's 87v feed disconnected, all of the voltages come up to within 0.03V of their intended voltages.

So I'm not quite sure where this leaves me yet. Being I don't know what the internal structure of U800 is, I'm not sure what to look for outside of U800. I know U800 hasn't been manufactured for years and is only available as a used and removed component. I read about the re-bake program, but it would seem mine falls under a different failure method than the re-bake program can fix. There's some available on e-bay for ~$120.00 shipped from China. Is it worth trying to swap it out with a Chinese salvaged part? Or is there another supplier of the salvage parts I'm not aware of?

You guys know these scopes better than I, and your guidance is much appreciated! I owe a huge thank-you to all of you who have helped me get this far!
Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@> wrote:

There are two diodes off the +87, one to U800 and one to U950. Both devices are known to have issues. You might just lift one end of each diode and see if the 87 volts comes up. That will isolate which device is causing the problem.

For reference, see diagram 11, power distribution.

Tom

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Chris,
Measure the 87v supply with those doides unsolsered. THAT will tell us something.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 23, 2013, at 3:26 PM, "Chris" <ckleman@...> wrote:

As a quick side note - I powered the scope up with the diode lifted(far side of the diode from U800, easier to desolder and lift), and pin 7 (the 87v input) of U800 shows -3.98V to -4.00V when the scope is powered up with the far leg of the diode in the air. Not sure if that tells you guys anything helpful though.

Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., "Chris" <ckleman@> wrote:

I lifted the diode CR807 feeding the +87v to the U800 IC and when I powered it up it booted up just like with I lifted Q1223 from the regulator board - Looks like it's U800. With U800 the panel controls boot up as normal, the LED's flash on/off and then onto the set positions. The screen turns on to a normal intensity, all traces will show up as points and I can control their vertical positions, but no horizontal traces or horizontal positions.

With U800's 87v feed disconnected, all of the voltages come up to within 0.03V of their intended voltages.

So I'm not quite sure where this leaves me yet. Being I don't know what the internal structure of U800 is, I'm not sure what to look for outside of U800. I know U800 hasn't been manufactured for years and is only available as a used and removed component. I read about the re-bake program, but it would seem mine falls under a different failure method than the re-bake program can fix. There's some available on e-bay for ~$120.00 shipped from China. Is it worth trying to swap it out with a Chinese salvaged part? Or is there another supplier of the salvage parts I'm not aware of?

You guys know these scopes better than I, and your guidance is much appreciated! I owe a huge thank-you to all of you who have helped me get this far!
Chris

--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@> wrote:

There are two diodes off the +87, one to U800 and one to U950. Both devices are known to have issues. You might just lift one end of each diode and see if the 87 volts comes up. That will isolate which device is causing the problem.

For reference, see diagram 11, power distribution.

Tom

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links