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Re: OT UNI-T UT81B or ? ( ~ $300 ) meter size scope

 

Bert, take a look at a Attn ADS1102CAL. Yes, it's Chinese (like a LOT of other mfgs today). I have one and absolutely love it. It sits atop my 2465A. I have 18 other scopes from a small Leader to a big (LeCroy). Can't beat the Atten, IMHO. Liked the quality so much I have since purchased some of their other equipment.
3 yr warranty besides......

ron
N4UE



-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Haskins
To: TekScopes
Sent: Tue, Oct 16, 2012 7:17 pm
Subject: [TekScopes] OT UNI-T UT81B or ? ( ~ $300 ) meter size scope

?
My mobility has slipped ( kinda much ) and I just can't toss around
my favorite Tek scopes like in the better days.

Since most of the Tek/Fluke scope-meters are considered to be non-repairable
anyway, is there anyone on the list that has used something like
the UIN-T with reasonable results or there another good choice.
The $300 is just sort of a arbitrary price point.

(1) This will be backed up by several other really nice instruments.

(2) Most of my scope usage is just on, check something, off.

(3) Most is under 250K

Thanks,
? Bert


Re: AN/USM-125 Scope Woes

 

开云体育

Where are you located? What model is the AN/USM-125? Do you have the service manual?
?
Sounds like it might just have a bad power supply capacitor. You'll get some bad karma if you through it in a dumpster.
?
Maybe someone on the list lives close to you and has the skills to repair it.
?
?
Regards,
Tom
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Dan
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 6:55 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] AN/USM-125 Scope Woes

?

I have an AN/USM-125 that has always (as long as I have owned it) had issues with vertical stability. I used to be able to clean or re-seat the vertical module and it would stabilize. This time, in the process of performing the ritual, the chan 1 and 2 traces could not be positioned below the zero line on the graticule, and any input signal appeared to compress with an adjustment in vertical positioning. Now, the trace has disappeared and the +90 volt supply appears dead (at +11 volts). I do not have the guts or the tools to dig into troubleshooting the HV circuitry. Can anyone shed some light on this before the scope hits the dumpster?

Thanks in advance,
Dan


OT UNI-T UT81B or ? ( ~ $300 ) meter size scope

 

开云体育

My mobility has slipped ( kinda much ) and I just can't toss around
my favorite Tek scopes like in the better days.

Since most of the Tek/Fluke scope-meters are considered to be non-repairable
anyway, is there anyone on the list that has used something like
the UIN-T with reasonable results or there another good choice.
The $300 is just sort of a arbitrary price point.

(1) This will be backed up by several other really nice instruments.

(2) Most of my scope usage is just on, check something, off.

(3) Most is under 250K

Thanks,
? Bert


AN/USM-125 Scope Woes

 

I have an AN/USM-125 that has always (as long as I have owned it) had issues with vertical stability. I used to be able to clean or re-seat the vertical module and it would stabilize. This time, in the process of performing the ritual, the chan 1 and 2 traces could not be positioned below the zero line on the graticule, and any input signal appeared to compress with an adjustment in vertical positioning. Now, the trace has disappeared and the +90 volt supply appears dead (at +11 volts). I do not have the guts or the tools to dig into troubleshooting the HV circuitry. Can anyone shed some light on this before the scope hits the dumpster?

Thanks in advance,
Dan


Re: 2465A Calibration question

 

开云体育

Hello Tom,

I thought that was one of those Tek products with cheap TI sockets. Tek continued to use those sockets long after computer industry abandoned them.

Miroslav Pokorni

On 10/16/2012 2:28 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

?

?

Hello Miroslav,
?
The original ram was soldered in. I installed a 28 pin milled pin, low profile socket and the new ram. I did not try to check the old ram as I clipped all the pins close to the package and removed each pin one by one.
?
?
?
?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2465A Calibration question

?

Did you try to put old? RAM back in? Those large sockets, like one used for RAM are of poor quality and over time contacts corrode and loose connection. I saw that in 7D01; socket was 16 or 18 pin, but still bad TI type and after replacing a RAM analyzer's display worked correctly and when old RAM was returned it still worked, so that looked to me as poor contact which was fixed by cycling IC.

Miroslav Pokorni

On 10/16/2012 12:54 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

?

?

That was it. Changed the ram and it calibrated on the first pass. It was a D4464C 8Kx8 ram.
?
?
?
Thanks,
Tom
?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Koller
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I think you have a bad RAM chip.

From: tmillermdems <tmiller11147@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 9:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I am getting a Test 04 Fail 01 error on a 2445A scope and I have been through the cal proceedure four times. I keep getting the error but when I exit out of the self test, every thing works fine.

Going through the calibration has no issues, no limit errors, etc. Is there anyway to tell what is causing the fail? The manual says the Fail01 is a parity error with the calibration data. Is there any way to tell where this error is? I know that one can examine the ram contents. Is there anything that clues on into what the data should be?

Thanks,
Tom




Re: 2465A Calibration question

 

?
Hello Miroslav,
?
The original ram was soldered in. I installed a 28 pin milled pin, low profile socket and the new ram. I did not try to check the old ram as I clipped all the pins close to the package and removed each pin one by one.
?
?
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2465A Calibration question

?

Did you try to put old? RAM back in? Those large sockets, like one used for RAM are of poor quality and over time contacts corrode and loose connection. I saw that in 7D01; socket was 16 or 18 pin, but still bad TI type and after replacing a RAM analyzer's display worked correctly and when old RAM was returned it still worked, so that looked to me as poor contact which was fixed by cycling IC.

Miroslav Pokorni

On 10/16/2012 12:54 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

?

?

That was it. Changed the ram and it calibrated on the first pass. It was a D4464C 8Kx8 ram.
?
?
?
Thanks,
Tom
?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Koller
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?

I think you have a bad RAM chip.

From: tmillermdems <tmiller11147@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 9:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I am getting a Test 04 Fail 01 error on a 2445A scope and I have been through the cal proceedure four times. I keep getting the error but when I exit out of the self test, every thing works fine.

Going through the calibration has no issues, no limit errors, etc. Is there anyway to tell what is causing the fail? The manual says the Fail01 is a parity error with the calibration data. Is there any way to tell where this error is? I know that one can examine the ram contents. Is there anything that clues on into what the data should be?

Thanks,
Tom




Re: 7B92 No Auto trigger

 

On Tue, 16 Oct 2012 19:29:35 -0000, "baltimora86" <acuffe@...>
wrote:

I borrowed a 10 mA 152-0140-01 tunnel diode from my 7B52, and I think I've confirmed that the only problem is the tunnel diode. Delayed triggering appears to work properly now (although I have to tweak the TD bias when switching between runs after delay, and delayed sweep triggerable). I hope that's due to my temporary TD substitution (8pF instead of 2pF).

I guess I'm in the market for a 152-0177-02 tunnel diode or two. The closest I can find is a 152-0177-01 for $20.

To sum it up, I think what happened was that CR950 shorted and was killing the sweep gate which caused the CRT to be blanked while in auto mode. When I attempted to manually pull up the sweep gate, it must have changed CR950 from a short to an open. I initially missed the fact the CR950 was open because it tests good wile in circuit, and I didn't pay close attention to the DC voltages when I was looking at the signal across it.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to help me. You saved me from countless hours of frustration.
It took me until last night to make some good 11x17 printouts from the
7B92 schematics I cleaned up so I could follow you. I will add them
in their own section to my 3 ring binder of instruments that I do not
have.

If I was dealing with a Tektronix unobtanium tunnel diode, I would
track down some cheaper East Block replacements and alter the circuit
biasing if necessary.

I do not know the original source so I have copied the Tektronix
tunnel diode summery worksheet into my 7B92 directory. Maybe that
will help:


Re: 2465A Calibration question

 

开云体育

Did you try to put old? RAM back in? Those large sockets, like one used for RAM are of poor quality and over time contacts corrode and loose connection. I saw that in 7D01; socket was 16 or 18 pin, but still bad TI type and after replacing a RAM analyzer's display worked correctly and when old RAM was returned it still worked, so that looked to me as poor contact which was fixed by cycling IC.

Miroslav Pokorni

On 10/16/2012 12:54 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

?

?

That was it. Changed the ram and it calibrated on the first pass. It was a D4464C 8Kx8 ram.
?
?
?
Thanks,
Tom
?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Koller
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?

I think you have a bad RAM chip.

From: tmillermdems <tmiller11147@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 9:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I am getting a Test 04 Fail 01 error on a 2445A scope and I have been through the cal proceedure four times. I keep getting the error but when I exit out of the self test, every thing works fine.

Going through the calibration has no issues, no limit errors, etc. Is there anyway to tell what is causing the fail? The manual says the Fail01 is a parity error with the calibration data. Is there any way to tell where this error is? I know that one can examine the ram contents. Is there anything that clues on into what the data should be?

Thanks,
Tom




Re: 7B92 No Auto trigger

Albert
 

Good that you found the cause Andy! I think the bias re-adjustment won't be necessary any more after you adjust all 3 pots in that section.
Albert

I borrowed a 10 mA 152-0140-01 tunnel diode from my 7B52, and I think I've confirmed that the only problem is the tunnel diode. Delayed triggering appears to work properly now (although I have to tweak the TD bias when switching between runs after delay, and delayed sweep triggerable). I hope that's due to my temporary TD substitution (8pF instead of 2pF).
---


Re: 2465A Calibration question

 

?
That was it. Changed the ram and it calibrated on the first pass. It was a D4464C 8Kx8 ram.
?
?
?
Thanks,
Tom
?
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Koller
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?

I think you have a bad RAM chip.


From: tmillermdems <tmiller11147@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 9:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I am getting a Test 04 Fail 01 error on a 2445A scope and I have been through the cal proceedure four times. I keep getting the error but when I exit out of the self test, every thing works fine.

Going through the calibration has no issues, no limit errors, etc. Is there anyway to tell what is causing the fail? The manual says the Fail01 is a parity error with the calibration data. Is there any way to tell where this error is? I know that one can examine the ram contents. Is there anything that clues on into what the data should be?

Thanks,
Tom




Re: 7B92 No Auto trigger

 

I borrowed a 10 mA 152-0140-01 tunnel diode from my 7B52, and I think I've confirmed that the only problem is the tunnel diode. Delayed triggering appears to work properly now (although I have to tweak the TD bias when switching between runs after delay, and delayed sweep triggerable). I hope that's due to my temporary TD substitution (8pF instead of 2pF).

I guess I'm in the market for a 152-0177-02 tunnel diode or two. The closest I can find is a 152-0177-01 for $20.

To sum it up, I think what happened was that CR950 shorted and was killing the sweep gate which caused the CRT to be blanked while in auto mode. When I attempted to manually pull up the sweep gate, it must have changed CR950 from a short to an open. I initially missed the fact the CR950 was open because it tests good wile in circuit, and I didn't pay close attention to the DC voltages when I was looking at the signal across it.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to help me. You saved me from countless hours of frustration.


Re: 7B92 No Auto trigger

Albert
 

Hi Andy,
Please see below.
Albert

If I adjust R364 (delay TD pickoff bias) to maximum resistance, I do get a healthy square wave at TP365, and the low to high transition time is controlled by the delay time multiplier knob. There still no response on screen. This seems to indicate that CR364 is being over biased from something.
No, CR354 is OK now.

I can trace the signal from TP365 as far as Q422 where is disappears. I've checked all the transistors around Q422, but nothing else yet. It seems like something is upsetting the bias on Q422, Q426, or Q424.

The auto trigger problem seemed to come from around Q422 as well, so I might be getting close.

The pulse should at least be present at TP421, which is directly connected to TP365.
Check that the delayed sweep is present at TP462. Set the delayed sweep 2 or 3 steps faster than the delaying sweep. Then at the end of the delayed sweep (= end of intensified portion), the level at TP462 remains high until end of trace (unless you have Delay so large that the delayed sweep didn't finish before end of trace).
Check that TP489 (Sweep gate) is high (+5 V) only during the intensified portion.



Andy


Re: 7B92 No Auto trigger

 

After some more thinking, and re-reading the supplemental circuit description, I realized that my previous line of thinking was a dead end. CR950 is what should be triggering the delayed sweep, so I rechecked the signal there. At first glance it looked fine, but I noticed there was over a volt across CR950. Since the voltage on CR950 is always above the threshold to trigger the delayed sweep, I assume it's causing it to run immediately.

I removed CR950 from the circuit, and confirmed that it's open. I don't think I have a suitable replacement on hand, but I might have something that will work for testing.


Re: 7B92 No Auto trigger

 

Hi Albert,

Here's what I'm seeing in intensified mode when triggering from TP408.

TP365 has a brief pulse down to 0 V at the start of the sawtooth ramp at TP408, then immediately goes up to about 570 mV. TP365 does go a few mV higher after the end of the delay period, but it's only a few mV.

If I adjust R364 (delay TD pickoff bias) to maximum resistance, I do get a healthy square wave at TP365, and the low to high transition time is controlled by the delay time multiplier knob. There still no response on screen. This seems to indicate that CR364 is being over biased from something.

I can trace the signal from TP365 as far as Q422 where is disappears. I've checked all the transistors around Q422, but nothing else yet. It seems like something is upsetting the bias on Q422, Q426, or Q424.

The auto trigger problem seemed to come from around Q422 as well, so I might be getting close.

Thanks

Andy

--- In TekScopes@..., "Albert" <aodiversen@...> wrote:

Hi Andy,

Here some more details. Maybe you feel unsure about waveform voltage levels.
In Normal sweep mode, TP365 (the TD) is high (570 mV, my 7B92) during the sweep and low (65 mV) between sweeps (hold-off time and while waiting for the next trigger event).
In Intensified mode and Level pushed in, TP365 remains low during the delay period and then switches to high. For some reason the level between sweeps is somewhat lower now, 40 mV. The switch to high moves when the Delay dial is turned. (Test 'scope, at which the waveforms are shown, triggered for a stable saw tooth at TP408.) With Level out, the waveform remains the same, but you might see a small upwards shift in the high level where the delayed sweep starts.
Now if your TP365 goes high immediately (at start of the sweep at TP408), regardless dial setting, then check also one step backwards. You should see square wave signals at both sides of the diode pair CR358/CR359, while the duty cycles vary when you turn the Delay dial. If so, this confirms that the comparator Q359A/B is working. Next the collector of Q376 should switch to high after the delay period, with voltage step even larger than that of the TD.
If TP365 gets higher than about .6 V then the TD is defective.
Hope this helps.

Albert


Re: 2445A Calibration question

 

?
Hi Bob,
?
Yeah, I am kinda thinking the same. It did have a dead battery when I got it.
?
Also, I said it was a 2445A but it is a 2465A but that doesn't matter for this problem. Same A5 board I think.
?
?
?
Thanks,
Tom
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Koller
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?

I think you have a bad RAM chip.


From: tmillermdems <tmiller11147@...>
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 9:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I am getting a Test 04 Fail 01 error on a 2445A scope and I have been through the cal proceedure four times. I keep getting the error but when I exit out of the self test, every thing works fine.

Going through the calibration has no issues, no limit errors, etc. Is there anyway to tell what is causing the fail? The manual says the Fail01 is a parity error with the calibration data. Is there any way to tell where this error is? I know that one can examine the ram contents. Is there anything that clues on into what the data should be?

Thanks,
Tom




Re: 2445A Calibration question

Bob Koller
 

I think you have a bad RAM chip.


From: tmillermdems
To: TekScopes@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 9:48 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 2445A Calibration question

?
I am getting a Test 04 Fail 01 error on a 2445A scope and I have been through the cal proceedure four times. I keep getting the error but when I exit out of the self test, every thing works fine.

Going through the calibration has no issues, no limit errors, etc. Is there anyway to tell what is causing the fail? The manual says the Fail01 is a parity error with the calibration data. Is there any way to tell where this error is? I know that one can examine the ram contents. Is there anything that clues on into what the data should be?

Thanks,
Tom




Re: Screwdriver for Pozidriv (Pozi) Screws used by Tek

Paul Kraemer
 

开云体育

I was amazed, after looking for the proper screwdrivers, finding these bits were available as part of a set that cost about $5 dollars in the local store. I bought the set and it includes a nice handle for running the bits.
Yes, we do live in a wonderful country and are often ignorant about the?resources available to others
Paul

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:14 AM
Subject: RE: [TekScopes] Screwdriver for Pozidriv (Pozi) Screws used by Tek

?

Hi Paul,

I have bought many of those “sets” over the years and never found a Pozi bit. They may be a recent addition to the sets as the manufacturers of these sets seem to be competing over how many new bits each can include that the others don’t have. The sets seem to grow more elaborate every year as each vendor tries to outdo the competition by adding more oddball bits to their sets.

Dennis

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Paul Kraemer
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 6:56 AM

Pozidrive screwdriver tips are available in most DIY stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Harbor Freight etc.---if you know where to look for them. They are included in many of the multi bit sets, the ones that have assortment of phillips, square, torx, plain---all those.

Phillips are marked P1etc and pozidrive are PZ1 etc.

They are there, just hiding.

Paul K0UYA

----- Original Message -----

Tek used Pozi screws in all of their equipment as far back as the late 1960s. At casual glance they look like Phillips Head screws with four little marks at 45 degree angles to the slots. There is an important difference between Pozi screws and Philips screws.

Pozidrives are not something you can get at your local hardware store so I never bought one before now. After years of using a Phillips screwdriver on my Tek equipment I finally decided I had to find out whether a Pozidriv screwdriver would make a difference. The difference is apparent immediately!

I paid $2.00 + $2.25 shipping for one on Ebay. Now I’m kicking myself for waiting so long. This is definitely worth it. The one I bought (I have no affiliation with the seller) is called “GearWrench 80084 #1 x 3-1/8" Pozi Insulated Screwdriver”. The seller has 362 of them at this ‘Buy It Now’ price so he is not likely to run out any time soon.

This excerpt from Wikipedia explains the difference between a Pozidrive and a Phillips drive:

“The Pozidriv, sometimes misspelled Pozidrive, screw drive is an improved version of the Phillips screw drive. It is jointly patented by the Phillips Screw Company and American Screw Company. The name is thought to be an abbreviation of positive drive. Its advantage over Phillips drives is its decreased likelihood to cam out, which allows greater torque to be applied.

Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks.

The Pozidriv screwdriver and screws are also visually distinguishable from Phillips by the second set of radial indentations set 45 degrees from the cross recess. The manufacturing process for Pozidriv screwdrivers is slightly more complex. The Phillips driver has four simple slots cut out of it, whereas in the Pozidriv each slot is the result of two machining processes at right angles. The result of this is that the arms of the cross are parallel-sided with the Pozidriv, and tapered with the Phillips.

This design is intended to decrease the likelihood that the Pozidriv screwdriver will slip out, provide a greater driving surface, and decrease wear. Phillips screwdrivers will fit in and turn Pozidriv screws, but will cam out if enough torque is applied, potentially damaging the screw head.”

Dennis


Re: Screwdriver for Pozidriv (Pozi) Screws used by Tek

 

开云体育

Hi Paul,

I have bought many of those “sets” over the years and never found a Pozi bit. They may be a recent addition to the sets as the manufacturers of these sets seem to be competing over how many new bits each can include that the others don’t have. The sets seem to grow more elaborate every year as each vendor tries to outdo the competition by adding more oddball bits to their sets.

Dennis

?

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf Of Paul Kraemer
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 6:56 AM

Pozidrive screwdriver tips are available in most DIY stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Harbor Freight etc.---if you know where to look for them. They are included in many of the multi bit sets, the ones that have assortment of phillips, square, torx, plain---all those.

Phillips are marked P1etc and pozidrive are PZ1 etc.

They are there, just hiding.

Paul K0UYA

----- Original Message -----

?

Tek used Pozi screws in all of their equipment as far back as the late 1960s. At casual glance they look like Phillips Head screws with four little marks at 45 degree angles to the slots. There is an important difference between Pozi screws and Philips screws.

Pozidrives are not something you can get at your local hardware store so I never bought one before now. After years of using a Phillips screwdriver on my Tek equipment I finally decided I had to find out whether a Pozidriv screwdriver would make a difference. The difference is apparent immediately!

I paid $2.00 + $2.25 shipping for one on Ebay. Now I’m kicking myself for waiting so long. This is definitely worth it. The one I bought (I have no affiliation with the seller) is called “GearWrench 80084 #1 x 3-1/8" Pozi Insulated Screwdriver”. The seller has 362 of them at this ‘Buy It Now’ price so he is not likely to run out any time soon.

This excerpt from Wikipedia explains the difference between a Pozidrive and a Phillips drive:

“The Pozidriv, sometimes misspelled Pozidrive, screw drive is an improved version of the Phillips screw drive. It is jointly patented by the Phillips Screw Company and American Screw Company. The name is thought to be an abbreviation of positive drive. Its advantage over Phillips drives is its decreased likelihood to cam out, which allows greater torque to be applied.

Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks.

The Pozidriv screwdriver and screws are also visually distinguishable from Phillips by the second set of radial indentations set 45 degrees from the cross recess. The manufacturing process for Pozidriv screwdrivers is slightly more complex. The Phillips driver has four simple slots cut out of it, whereas in the Pozidriv each slot is the result of two machining processes at right angles. The result of this is that the arms of the cross are parallel-sided with the Pozidriv, and tapered with the Phillips.

This design is intended to decrease the likelihood that the Pozidriv screwdriver will slip out, provide a greater driving surface, and decrease wear. Phillips screwdrivers will fit in and turn Pozidriv screws, but will cam out if enough torque is applied, potentially damaging the screw head.”

Dennis


Re: Screwdriver for Pozidriv (Pozi) Screws used by Tek

 

Yes. I meant hardware store in the USA. And Yes! I know about and respect
that we are just one country among many nations around the world. I consider
myself fortunate that I live in a unique place within a mile of Microsoft.
Because they have brought in people from all over the world to help write
their software and to internationalize it I am in a multicultural microcosm
where I am sometimes the only American in the supermarket. It is fascinating
to see so many different costumes and hear so many languages spoken in the
aisles.

That microcosm is situated in a myopic bubble world called the USA where
most people take it for granted that they, and their country, are the only
ones that matter. When they think "foreign country", if they think at all,
what comes to mind is Canada and Mexico. Most of them don't realize, or
don't care (which is worse!) the other 180+ countries even exist. Recently
they have been rudely awakened to the ugly fact that just about everything
they now wear, buy, and own is made in China.

Americans have fought metrification for at least the past 50 years (since I
was first introduced to its elegant simplicity in high school) kicking and
screaming all the way. They prefer the comfort of teaspoons, tablespoons,
ounces, cups, pints, quarts, gallons etc. when they cook. I defy anyone to
tell me how many teaspoons are in a quart. To me it is mindboggling how
confusing the English system is.

I hold onto a glimmer of hope. While Americans were sleeping their quart
soda bottles were replaced with 2 liter bottles. They don't seem to have
noticed. Everything they buy in a liquor store comes measured in liters but
as long as the bottles look the same size as what they are used to they
don't realize they have been fooled into accepting those 'socialist' metric
liters.

What's worse, to accommodate their fear of metrification we are now mixing
the systems together. For instance marijuana is smuggled in kilogram bundles
('keys') but they buy it by the ounce. Cocaine is bought by the gram. At
least every hippie knows how many grams are in an ounce. American's cars
come with metric bolts but the metric socket sets they use are designed to
slip into their 1/4" ratchet drives.

I gave up long ago advocating for the metric system in the US. It was always
met with ignorance, closed minds, and worse, anger. Every time I still bring
up the metric system I am reminded, painfully, that "half the people I know
are below average". Sometimes I think most of the below average people live
near me.

Dennis

PS No doubt I'm going to hear about this!

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of fred
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 12:54 AM

To be specific. I think you mean, hardware store in the USA. There is a wild
outside the US, we use strange things like metric instead of Inch, Celcius
instead of Fahrenheit ect. And so there are many tools a " standard over
here but as rare as metric in the US.

In Holland and as far a I know a big part of Europe, you can buy them
everywhere. Even sub 5 euro sets from food-supermarktets like Lidl or Aldi
have them included. ( most times a screwdriver with exchangsble bits) i
think I have somewhere around ( including bits) 20-30 pozidriv's.
Almost all woodscrews here are pozidriv. Also most "parkers" , the
selfcutting screws for use in metal. Bolts not with a hex wrench head are
almost always Philips but in modern stuf more often torque or Hex.

Fred

--- In TekScopes@..., "Dennis Tillman" <dennis@...> wrote:

Pozidrives are not something you can get at your local hardware store so I


Re: Screwdriver for Pozidriv (Pozi) Screws used by Tek

Paul Kraemer
 

开云体育

Pozidrive screwdriver tips are available in most DIY stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Harbor Freight etc.---if you know where to look for them. They are included in many of the multi bit sets, the ones that have assortment of phillips, square, torx, plain---all those.
Phillips are marked P1etc and pozidrive are PZ1 etc.
They are there, just hiding.
Paul K0UYA

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 11:25 PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Screwdriver for Pozidriv (Pozi) Screws used by Tek

?

Tek used Pozi screws in all of their equipment as far back as the late 1960s. At casual glance they look like Phillips Head screws with four little marks at 45 degree angles to the slots. There is an important difference between Pozi screws and Philips screws.

Pozidrives are not something you can get at your local hardware store so I never bought one before now. After years of using a Phillips screwdriver on my Tek equipment I finally decided I had to find out whether a Pozidriv screwdriver would make a difference. The difference is apparent immediately!

I paid $2.00 + $2.25 shipping for one on Ebay. Now I’m kicking myself for waiting so long. This is definitely worth it. The one I bought (I have no affiliation with the seller) is called “GearWrench 80084 #1 x 3-1/8" Pozi Insulated Screwdriver”. The seller has 362 of them at this ‘Buy It Now’ price so he is not likely to run out any time soon.

This excerpt from Wikipedia explains the difference between a Pozidrive and a Phillips drive:

“The Pozidriv, sometimes misspelled Pozidrive, screw drive is an improved version of the Phillips screw drive. It is jointly patented by the Phillips Screw Company and American Screw Company. The name is thought to be an abbreviation of positive drive. Its advantage over Phillips drives is its decreased likelihood to cam out, which allows greater torque to be applied.

Phillips drivers have an intentional angle on the flanks and rounded corners so they will cam out of the slot before a power tool will twist off the screw head. The Pozidriv screws and drivers have straight sided flanks.

The Pozidriv screwdriver and screws are also visually distinguishable from Phillips by the second set of radial indentations set 45 degrees from the cross recess. The manufacturing process for Pozidriv screwdrivers is slightly more complex. The Phillips driver has four simple slots cut out of it, whereas in the Pozidriv each slot is the result of two machining processes at right angles. The result of this is that the arms of the cross are parallel-sided with the Pozidriv, and tapered with the Phillips.

This design is intended to decrease the likelihood that the Pozidriv screwdriver will slip out, provide a greater driving surface, and decrease wear. Phillips screwdrivers will fit in and turn Pozidriv screws, but will cam out if enough torque is applied, potentially damaging the screw head.”

Dennis