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I don't know about your particular meter but most plates are symetrical and could be flipped over. If so you could apply the new artwork to the reverse side of the plate.

Bill Koski

Gianni,
Every time I look at your books, I am just blown away by the quality and the amount of work you put in to produce such quality. I have done a smattering of such work (at a far less professional-looking level) in a past life, and until you've done it, you cannot comprehend the amount of effort required. You are a GIFT to this hobby and interest! Thank you. I have the new book downloaded and am now going through it. Again, thanks for the superb work!

Wayne

Hi Gianni, downloaded just the 2nd version of the 7K scopes book. Enormous in size but well worth it and a a joy to read.
Thanks for all your work and to share it with us, and don?t forget to warm up the K100 if you have any spare time ;-)
搁别苍é

Thank you Craig!

Take care to avoid brass and aluminum from direct contact with each other. Dissimilar metals result in corrosion if moisture and a current path are present. It might not be a big deal for your meter face but be aware.

On Thu, Jan 23, 2025 at 11:45 PM, Richard Kelly wrote:

Am I correct that brass is equally suitable, will have an equal impact on
meter calibration/accuracy, but might possibly confer slightly more damping?

Al is paramagnetic. Brass... depending on what's in it... is supposed to be diamagnetic.
Brass has about 1/2 the conductivity of Al.
I thought the meters in those 130 were of the D'Arsonval type... and as such.. the 'damping' is done the eddy currents generated in the Al bobbin the meter coil is wound on.
The magnetic fields are 'tightly' confined to vicinity of the coil; because there is an iron core, inside the bobbin.
AFAIK, what's moving is the bobbin, not the meter face plate.
Don't know if the meter face plate is used for shielding... if that's the concern... but either brass, or Al, won't shield against magnetic fields... and while Al is better at shielding strong electric fields... AFAIK... practically brass is as good.
--
Roy Thistle

Indeed, but I'd rather not risk damaging the original.

I've got some 0.5mm aluminium sheet after all, so I will use that.

Gianni,
Was able to download your second version of the 7000 series. Thank you for your desire to keep these instruments alive with all your detail photos and description of operations.

Craig Cramb

Can't you apply the new scale to the back of the existing plate?
73,
Bill, WA2DVUCape May

I need to restore my Tek 130LC meter scale - the red has unsurprisingly 95% disappeared.

I've crafted the artwork, and boy did that take some time as each of the five scales is cunningly non-linear and no two appear the same!

It's now about print and apply, but apply to what? I'd rather keep the original aluminium-backed scale safe as I may have a way to restore it without removing/affecting the existing visible print. What I do have to hand is plenty of suitably thin brass sheet. I'd need to buy aluminium in.

Am I correct that brass is equally suitable, will have an equal impact on meter calibration/accuracy, but might possibly confer slightly more damping?

However, having spent SO long producing the exact artwork, would be shame to undo that with the wrong material!

I just don't have the practical experience here, so would value your thoughts. Thanks.

Correction: makbook ->tektool ))
Spellchecking mistake

пт, 24 янв. 2025 г., 6:29 walkerru3 via groups.io <walkerru=
[email protected]>:

Hello!

Sometimes ago i obtained a TDS640A Acq. board. I found on w140.com Wiki,
what TDS544A uses the same Proc. board as TDS644A. And bought it too.

Today i have a TDS544A Proc. which working with TDS540A Acq., but when i
try to connect TDS640A Acq, processor doesn't see it and give me an error.

I think, i need to flash TDS640A firmware to my Proc. board. It right?

Second question: I bought a PCII/IA GRIB board to make field adjustments
later. This ISA board runs on PIII with Win98SE. I thought I could flash
the oscilloscope using this board, but I read that the macbook can only
work normally in Win7/10. Does anyone know about Win98/DOS Tek flasher?

Thanks,
Peter

Where's the fun in that?

John

After studying the limited circuit description in the manual and the schematics, I think I have a basic understanding how how the Sampler works.

With a constant square wave into channel 1 I have observed the data out of the Sampler in both the fast, and the slow acquisition modes. It appears that I have a vertical problem occurring in the fast mode. The amplitude and offset of the data is very different in the two modes, with the amplitude greater (and too large) in the fast mode, which is also what I am seeing on the screen at sweep rates of 10 uSec / division and greater. After calibration the amplitude in the slow acquisition mode is accurate, although there is still an offset from zero. I have verified that the input signal to the Sampler is not changing between modes.

Unfortunately I don't know enough about the Sampler to determine whether the sampler is bad, or if there is some other problem. It does not appear to me that there is any offset or gain inputs to the Sampler. I don't know what the four bit address bus, and four bit data bus are for.

Does anyone have enough experience with the sampler in the TDS 380 to know if something external can be changing the gain and offset, or has the Sampler failed?

Thanks,

Gary Appel

The rejuvenation seldom works long term.

Old TV boosters just raised the filament voltage a bit.

Suggest that you Look for 3RP1 CRT on eBay or ham flea market

Jon

I just got a Tek 468 from one of the guys here in town. It's missing the back cover and feet.

Does anyone have what I need to put my scope back together? Just the parts or an old junker would be great.

I have a photo, but I don't know how to attach it here.

Thanks!
Mike Harmon, WB0LDJ
mharmon at att dot net

This discussion of the physics of rejuvenation and double peaking here fascinates me! I'm about to try rejuvenating a 3RP1 CRT in my Heathkit HO-10 monitor scope (sorry, not a Tek scope, but hopefully still relevant to this forum). At the brightest setting, the cathode current is 0.5 uA. The trace line is very dim and also very thin, thinner than the line on various Tek 'scopes I have. It does not have double peaking. I don't know if rejuvenation has been attempted on it before. Are there any measurements I could do before, during, or after that could contribute to the discussion here?
Halden VE7UTS

Good evening Guys,
I released the new edition of my book about the 7000 Series, more than 800 pages completely rewritten.
It is still free and available from my web page (www.k100.biz).
Enjoy!
Gianni

Here is also a small video to present the new book published by Elektor about Tek restoration

Thanks for this - it will be much easier than the images emailed from my phone!
Ron

Good on ya!