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Just to clarify, the can is turned upside-down for that.

Barry - N4BUQ

I've done this by making the cut about 1/2" from the top of the can. A hacksaw
blade taped to a small piece of wood allows one to cut and slowly spin the can
while sawing so that the cut is all the way around. It makes for a pretty
square cut. I think I used heat-shrink the last time I did that as well.

Barry - N4BUQ

I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors.

The multi cans bulge at the bottom, so I cant use a pipe cutter reliably.
Have to use a hacksaw...with very fine teeth.

Clean up with a half-round file and then fine sand paper glued to a glass pane
(for flatness).

To reassemble the cans, I have used aluminum tape in the past.
But I'm going to try clear heat shrink tubing on the next one I do.
I think that might look nicer.

I've done this by making the cut about 1/2" from the top of the can. A hacksaw
blade taped to a small piece of wood allows one to cut and slowly spin the can
while sawing so that the cut is all the way around. It makes for a pretty
square cut. I think I used heat-shrink the last time I did that as well.

Barry - N4BUQ

I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors.

The multi cans bulge at the bottom, so I cant use a pipe cutter reliably.
Have to use a hacksaw...with very fine teeth.

Clean up with a half-round file and then fine sand paper glued to a glass pane
(for flatness).

To reassemble the cans, I have used aluminum tape in the past.
But I'm going to try clear heat shrink tubing on the next one I do.
I think that might look nicer.

I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors.

The multi cans bulge at the bottom, so I cant use a pipe cutter reliably.
Have to use a hacksaw...with very fine teeth.

Clean up with a half-round file and then fine sand paper glued to a glass pane
(for flatness).

To reassemble the cans, I have used aluminum tape in the past.
But I'm going to try clear heat shrink tubing on the next one I do.
I think that might look nicer.

I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors.

The multi cans bulge at the bottom, so I cant use a pipe cutter reliably.
Have to use a hacksaw...with very fine teeth.

Clean up with a half-round file and then fine sand paper glued to a glass pane (for flatness).

To reassemble the cans, I have used aluminum tape in the past.
But I'm going to try clear heat shrink tubing on the next one I do.
I think that might look nicer.

"is NOS ok or brand spanking new"

Great question!

There are good reasons why a cap is spec'd for 85°C or 105°C, or 1000hrs or
5000hrs, or a shelf life of 10,000hrs or 100,000hrs.
It goes well beyond the electrolyte formula.
There's also the quality of the rubber seals, and the actual foil composition.

Simply put, a low-spec NOS 85°C cap is one you don't want to install after about
3-5 years on the shelf.
Whereas a high-spec NOS 105°C or 125°C is generally good for about 10+ years on
the shelf.

Regarding brand-new - if it's a well-established series, then certainly
preferable.
But if it's a recently introduced series, I normally wait about 2-3 years before
using them.

I remember that I had serious problems with Panasonic FM's failing in the early
years.
That really surprised me, being a lifelong fan of Matsushita/Panasonic.
No bulging, just capacitance decreasing and high ESR.
No, they weren't fakes.
I had a lot of comebacks, so I stopped using them for a couple of years.
Later, I returned to using them with no problems.

And Chemicon also had similar problems with a high-spec 105°C KYx or KZx series
- I don't remember which.

So, crap happens even at the best people, and problems need time to be ironed
out.


Beyond that, on PSU power rails, you GENERALLY do NOT have to replace an old cap
with the same numbers.
For example, an old large 47uF can generally be replaced with a small 100uF or
220uF with no issues.
(Perhaps that's why <100uF caps are becoming scarce now).
The cap's voltage rating can be 2-3 times the actual circuit voltage with no
issues.
Of course, you should check and understand the actual circuit requirements,
before making any decision to change the original ratings.

Menahem Yachad
www.condoraudio.com

I remember getting the EOL notices a couple years ago. I guess it's finally
here. FWIW, they still have a few thousand in most of those UHE and values at
Mouser. I still have plenty Nichicon in the bins so we'll see how long that
lasts me.

I spend about 20% of the repair characterizing and sorting components before I
start so I understand the predicament. I've been getting manufacturer sample
kits to see if there's anything that impresses me. Here's what I've been
preparing to transition to:

Chemi-Con KYB Series:
- The Good - All around excellent, Low Z, Long life, Lots of sub 100?F values,
High ripple, good prices
- The Bad - Once you get to 100V they become pricey
Chemi-Con PSG: (Organic Polymer Caps)
- The Good - Super low Z, Extremely long life, Similar price range, Excellent
ESR!
- The Bad - Kind of wonky values to what we're used to. Not much below 100?F. No
high voltage.
Chemi-Con KZN:
- The Good - Low Z, Long life, Excellent ESR and high ripple, Many sub 100?F
values
- The Bad - Slightly pricier, Sub 100?F are ≤5000 hours rated,
Panasonic FR & FM Series:
- The Good - Low Z, Excellent prices, all 105°C, lots of sub 100?F options,
Super low ESR
- The Bad - Not much really. I think they're ugly, does that count?
Cornell Dublier KXM & KBM Series:
- The Good - Hits all the marks, low Z, low ESR, good price, lots of sub 100?F
values,
- The Bad - Also ugly, maybe uglier than the Panasonic. Otherwise, a fine cap.
Barker-Microfarad
- The Good - Everything, especially the 510D and made in USA! I thought my
leakage tester was dead when I first sorted them.
- The Bad - Impossible to acquire by hobbyists like myself. A friend who works
in component ordering for Mitsubishi got me a stash. Also, they don't look
cheap. (From the style of them, they must have acquired the licensing from
Sprague or are Sprague or manufacture the Sprague line for Vishay. I'm not
really sure but you'll know what I mean when you see them.)


I'm sure there are many more. I might add I've been shying away from the Ruby's
lately. They used to be another go to brand for me and many others. But during
characterization, they tend to vary a lot more on my bench than the other
brands here. It may be picky, but I don't like unpredictability.

Regards,
Drew