开云体育

Thank you for the response Jim. Yes, I've another 3B3. I use it in my 564B,
and of course, it sweeps correctly. The 3B3 in the 564B works well, just
pretty beat up. The one I'm working on is much nicer, with no evidence it
has been tampered with. Apparently came from the Mayo Clinic (has their tag
on the rear panel).

Thanks, Jean-Paul. I found the following link in one of the EEVBLOG posts. Is it the one you were thinking of?



It has pictures but it looks to me like he was overlapping the two B Sweep markers. If so, I don't think that is the way it should be done, but I'm not sure. Seems like a simple question to answer, if anyone here actually knows.

The interesting part is that as the trace sweeps, it is going backwards, or
from right to left. I verified this behavior by slowing down the sweep. The
dot indeed is going backwards.

Do you have another time base that tracks correctly, Left to Right? If not, it's possible that the wires to the horizontal deflection plate pins have been swapped. That would be an easy fix.

If you have other timebase plugins that sweep correctly, then you'll have to figure out where this 3B3 went wrong. I've got several 3B3s and the manuals, so I may be able to help if you get into this.

Kim do you mean a TR503 tracking generator?
Jeff

--
Jeffeelcr

Hello again, there was a video or diagrams on the techniques perhaps not on tekscopes but EEVBLOG.
Search entre forum, as several categories may have it,



Jon

As

On Mon, May 9, 2022 at 04:19 AM, Mike Dinolfo wrote:

James:

A comment about the 455 with the low +95v rail that you described:?
Check the following components:
C582: 2.2 ufd cap, electrolytic, 2.2 ufd +50/-10%, 160V
C584: 2.0 ufd cap, electrolytic, 2.0 ufd +50/-10%, 150V

Spot on. Both have failed impressively.

Appreciated

Lock-in amplifiers are very cool. Single phase versions require phase adjustment to peak up the reading whereas dual phase versions with two phase sensitive detectors in quadrature do this automatically. The modern SRS units are pretty good. I have some SR830's for a good price
if interested. I am in the SF bay area.

The vintageTEK Museum has a tested part, pulled from a parts unit. $10 plus shipping. Where are you? If you're in the EU, QService might be a better choice if they have one in stock.
--
Bob Haas

Yeah, after I corrected your spelling of Horizontal I was able to find other posts that Asked that question, but none of them actually answered it.

And I did try it. Both ways, as I said in my post.

Hello: This topic was covered in old threads on this forum or also Tekscopes2.

But search 2465B Horozontal calibration rather than 2465 (similar)

The explanation needs a few pix to appreciate the manual instructions, but just try it, you will figure it out....

Jon

Hi All,

I am forced to part with some of my test gear. SO this is the first piece on the block.

My 496A has been in for repair and calibration. It's in nice shape. I have a cast cover that
goes over the front and that has the storage compartment inside it for cables, etc. I also
have some extra knobs for it as well.

I also have the TG-503, which was a new piece that came from Tucker Electronics
when they were still around. It looks like new and works the same. In addition, I have
a DC-504 counter, an empty storage compartment that goes in a TM-504 for all the extra
cables, etc and the TM-504, which was reconned and acquired from Sphere Electronics.

I want $1000 for the whole package and I'll SHIP it for that. Shipping is CONUS. I hate to
get rid of this, but some things need to leave and this gets the least use. You can be sure
that as soon as I let go of this thing, I'm gonna need it.

I do have pics of all this stuff and if you're seriously interested, I can send them to you
and at that point, we should have a discussion over the phone.

Thanks for reading the mail.
Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@...
1-616-677-3706

Unfortunately, I discovered that that wires for that connector are not color-coded for a 1,2,3,4,5 order and I had to trace them to determine which wire goes where. Not too bad but I wish Tek had provided the cabling color-scheme but I guess that since those were all supposed to be in their respective plastic holders, then that wasn't really necessary.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

I will second the vote for the TDS220. They're readily available for cheap these days (CRINGE when I think what I paid for mine when it was new!), and they were the first or nearly the first of the digital scopes that don't fib to you when presented with a signal too fast for the selected sweep rate. One of the display modes (the only one I normally use) shows each sample with the positive and negative peak voltage since the previous sample, filled with hashing if they differ significantly. Thus instead of aliasing between the sample rate and the signal, you see almost exactly what an analog scope would show you - but you still have the benefits of digital sampling for single-shot events, etc. I also bought the FFT pack, which adds IEEE-488, parallel port, serial port, FFTs, and some extra math functions. The FFT gives you a "poor man's spectrum analyzer". The rated bandwidth is 100 MHz (there's also a 60 MHz version, maybe that's the TDS210), but it can be used a bit beyond that if you're careful and understand what you're looking at, and that amplitudes won't be accurate.

The TDS220 is still my main workhorse, even though I also have a 200 MHz 4 ch scope and a 1 GHz 4 ch scope. I rarely turn those on.

Steve Hendrix

Re: Thermal imaging cameras

There are now some very reasonably priced thermal imaging cameras that will
plug into a tablet or cell phone (used for the control software and
display). Examples:

FLIR One Pro ( iOS for Apple phones, but there is an LT model with a USB
connector for newer Apple devices and Android/Microsoft ones) 8um to 14 um
(that u is supposed to be a Greek mu). The FLIR One Gen 3 is even less
expensive. The Pro is about USD $300 and the FLIR One about USD $250 though
I have seen the Pro LT for USD $250). FLIR One also makes an all-in-one
thermal imaging camera with a display. It’s more expensive but under USD
$1000. They also make a thermal imaging monocular for about USD $500.
Amazon sells these as does DigiKey.

There are also some Chinese-made ones that look like the hand-held infrared
thermometers but have a thermal imaging display. These seem to cost between
USD $400 and $600.

I have no CoI with any of these vendors. A friend of mine uses a FLIR One
on his iPad and the images it produces are very good.

Steve H.

I'm going to go out on a limb and disagree with much of what has already been advised to you. I get your desire to concentrate on hollow state gear, and stick with the older stuff that interests you. What you need is a simple scope that will let you troubleshoot the older gear while not being a headache in its own right. For this, all you need is something that has more bandwidth than what you're working on and doesn't come with constraints that limit its utility. Small size would be an advantage, because you don't need another large item in your collection.

Tek's 7000 series are beautiful scopes, but they are WAY more than you need, and they are just as big as the parts you're working on. I strongly recommend that you stay away from analog sampling devices, other than the ones you're trying to repair. 50 Ohm inputs and sampling diodes that are expensive, and likely unobtainable, and die if you give them more than 2 V are not what you want in your troubleshooting toolkit. You want something that's cheap, straightforward, and not likely to turn into something else that needs repair.

I'm in something of the same boat as you. I work on older gear that has tubes and is mostly fairly low frequency. I have a 564B and a 465B, and I love them both. Then, a few years back, someone gave me a TDS220. I thought it was a stupid little 'scope, but I accepted the gift. Sure, it's 100 MHz, but it's tiny, a small boombox, and it's digital, but it's become my troubleshooting tool of choice, largely due to its small size and weight. Nothing fancy here, nothing to write home about. It just does everything I need it to and is easily portable.

Some people have made the point that digital scopes are "sampling" scopes. In a sense, this is correct, but in a more useful sense it isn't. Digital scopes will capture single events that a true sampling scope won't. A digital scope don't need a repetitive signal to display it. My TDS220 is nothing fancy; it's just useful up to 100 MHz and does what I need for troubleshooting, AND it's VERY easily portable, weighing probably less than 5 lbs.

Now I'm not necessarily suggesting that you go out and specifically look for a TDS220, but I think you should look at that family and see what you can find for cheap. There may have been 60 MHz members of that family that would also work perfectly for you. There are also 4 channel versions. Buy what you can find at a price that fits your budget. And get back here when you start working on your 3S and 3T modules. I have several that I've been putting off diving into, and I'll need help when that time comes.

I have a question on the horizontal calibration where the service manual says to align certain time markers and to "superimpose the delayed B Sweep time markers". Does that mean to:
(A) Superimpose the delayed B Sweep markers over their corresponding time markers?
OR
(B) Superimpose the two delayed B Sweep markers over the top of each other?
Originally I did the (B) method but had to recalibrate because the 'scope kept putting the "uncalibrated dotted line" on the display whenever I changed the sweep rate. When I calibrated using the (A) method, all was good.

The (A) method especially, was difficult to complete at the higher frequencies because the B Sweep markers got to be Very wide. Does anyone have any hints on how to handle this? Maybe it was partly because I had to use square waves instead of pulses because of having to switch to a different signal generator to get the 50MHz (20ns) and 500MHz frequencies? But at 500MHz!! you're at a 2ns period, so I doubt that even the Tektronix test equipment would be able to make a pulse. The pulse would have to be less than 1ns at that frequency. I guess at 500MHz though, you're not intensifying anything, you are just counting time markers. But they're more like sine waves at that frequency.

Have a cosmetically extremely nice 3B3 timebase that I have finally gotten
around to restoring. Did a thorough cleaning, cleaned all contacts,
lubricated, and tested all tubes and transistors. Inserting it into my
561A, I was able to get a trace, but in AUTO only, and on the right half of
the crt. LEVEL control has zero effect, sweep is not triggerable.
Indications are pointing to faulty D101 or D102.

The interesting part is that as the trace sweeps, it is going backwards, or
from right to left. I verified this behavior by slowing down the sweep. The
dot indeed is going backwards.

Seem some weird stuff on my Tek scopes, but nothing like this.

Hi Gudjon,
Good work! I imagine that the piece you milled is, in effect, an extension of the switch body to the “free space” beyond the pcb to enable the sliding part of the switch to be assembled and slid in under the pcb… I can see how that would work. Can you post a picture?
But I’m not sure that will help with the function switch :-(
But the offsets you are seeing are a very tempting target to aim for. I have temporarily “air wired” the critical pcb paths as much as I can and doubt that pcb leakage is the issue with mine, solder mask or no.
Is there a trick to disconnecting the long plastic button actuators from the switch itself? Looks to me like a plastic part just begging to be broken!
Roman

Brilliant, thanks Ozan. I'll see what I can find out from that.

Ralph

Try Qservice, which is based in Europe (Greece, I think) and may have what you need. See