Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- TekScopes
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Type 106
Hi Stephen,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'm not sure my paper manual has that information so good to see it in the scanned copy from TekWiki. Apparently they still used clip-in silicon Schottky diodes which I don't find by that part number but that's pretty minor. BTW, this document is of interest: I particularly like the last two sentences on page 7 of that document. You don't see that very much anymore. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen" <stephen.nabet@...> On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 01:11 PM, n4buq wrote:If you look at the end of the manual, starting on page 96, you¡¯ll find the |
|
Re: Type 106
On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 01:11 PM, n4buq wrote:
If you look at the end of the manual, starting on page 96, you¡¯ll find the replacement procedure and parts list for those obsolete GaAs diodes. Hope this helps. |
|
Re: Type 106
Yes, indeed, that's very good advice, Jim. Even if you don't pop the diodes outright, they can become very leaky.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-- Cheers, Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070 On 12/17/2021 21:02, Jim Ford wrote:
I bet an anti-static wriststrap is in order when working with these tiny junctions.? ? ? ? ? Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone |
|
Re: Type 106
I bet an anti-static wriststrap is in order when working with these tiny junctions.? ? ? ? ? Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message --------From: Tom Lee <tomlee@...> Date: 12/17/21 8:53 PM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type 106 I took a look at the tekwiki page and saw those custom packages. Pretty cool looking -- like scaled-down old-style point-contact "catwhisker" detectors from the days of crystal radio.If it were my unit, I'd remove the holders and just solder the replacements directly onto the board to avoid all the parasitics that would come from trying to make the replacement diodes physically emulate the original ones. But that's me.The manual has some pages on small differences between the GaAs and Si diode circuits, by the way, so you might want to take a look at that info if you haven't already.-- Cheers,Tom-- Prof. Thomas H. LeeAllen Ctr., Rm. 205350 Jane Stanford WayStanford UniversityStanford, CA 94305-4070 12/17/2021 18:54, n4buq wrote:> Thanks, Tom.? The existing diodes are tiny glass(?) cylinders with metal ends that clip into small holders (much like the old fashioned clip-in fuses).? I suppose I'll be doing some plumbing for whatever I find to replace them.>> Thanks,> Barry - N4BUQ>> ----- Original Message ----->> From: "Tom Lee" <tomlee@...>>> To: "tekscopes" <[email protected]>>> Sent: Friday, December 17, 2021 7:14:57 PM>> Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type 106>> Based on the fast-rise circuitry of the 106 and PG506 being similar and>> having similar specs, you would seem to have several good Si-Schottky>> candidates. A few that come to mind are:>>>> MBD101>> BAV17>> HSMS-282x (15V breakdown makes these an upgrade over the stock diodes)>>>> These have slightly higher capacitance than the GaAs originals, but it's>> not enough to matter.>>>> I'm sure others will chime in shortly with their recommendations.>>>> -- Cheers>> Tom>>>> -->> Prof. Thomas H. Lee>> Allen Ctr., Rm. 205>> 350 Jane Stanford Way>> Stanford University>> Stanford, CA 94305-4070>> >>>> On 12/17/2021 16:11, n4buq wrote:>>> Speaking of a 106, anyone know anything about the GaAs diodes in the Fast Rise>>> outputs?? I think one or two of mine are bad.? The +OUTPUT works but not the>>> -OUTPUT.? Input to the two diodes on the -OUTPUT side looks okay but at the>>> junction between the two, the signal is not correct and the output is not>>> correct at all.>>>>>> I've never seen diodes constructed like these before and don't expect I'll find>>> direct replacements but am wondering could be used as replacements.>>>>>> Thanks,>>> Barry - N4BUQ>>>>>> ----- Original Message ----->>>> From: "saipan59 (Pete)" <saipan1959@...>>>>> To: "tekscopes" <[email protected]>>>>> Sent: Friday, December 17, 2021 4:24:27 PM>>>> Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type 106>>>> Ah, so your earlier "my bad" message meant to say that nothing is actually wrong>>>> with the +/-10 rails. Got it.>>>>>>>> However, regarding:>>>> "Instead of checking voltages between chassis ground and directly at both>>>> emitters, I probed between ground and + C215/ C218.? According to the>>>> schematic, this should be the same.? But apparently not">>>> You MUST get the same values at the Emitters and at +C215 and -C218 ! If you>>>> don't, you've got a measurement problem, OR those caps are not actually>>>> connected like they should be.>>>> Note that those rails *may* appear to work fine, even if C215 and C218 are>>>> missing...>>>>>>>> Pete>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>
|
|
Re: OT: microwave oven blows fuse
Crap!? I read this after I got it all put back together and seems to be working!? So, Ben, I need to replace which switch?? The top and bottom switches are indeed NC, and the monitor switch in the middle is NO.? Thanks.? ? ? ? ?JimSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message --------From: "benwetzel via groups.io" <benwetzel@...> Date: 12/17/21 7:15 PM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] OT: microwave oven blows fuse Hello everyone, I have been reading on this board and not knowing the answers till I got to this post.? I have been repairing commercial food equipment for 20 plus years and microwaves are part of that.? What is going on here is the door interlock switch is worn out, the hook on the door latch has worn the plastic in the interlock switch and messed up the timing of the limit switches.? The door interlock has three switches, primary, secondary, and the monitor.? As the door opens, both primary and secondary must open before the Monitor closes.? Primary and secondary are in both legs of power supplied to high voltage transformer, in this case hot and neutral.? Monitor is across both legs, again hot and neutral in this case.? This causes a dead short and blows the main fuse if either primary or secondary interlock switch is not open before the Monitor closes.? Primary and secondary are normally open and monitor is normally closed.? If the HV transformer burns and causes high current draw this usually blows the breaker for the outlet and leaves fuse in microwave fine.? The reason for this is to prevent opening the door with magnetron putting out microwaves and cooking the person that opens the door or pacemaker interference.? If we run into a unit that has a blown main fuse we automatically replace the door interlock switch, don't pass go just do it.? The door hook slamming into the plastic of the interlock switch wears the plastic where it eventuality makes the primary and secondary not open fast enough before monitor closes and blows the extremely fast blow fuse preventing relay or limit switch contacts from welding closed.? You need a new interlock switch and fuse.
|
|
Re: Type 106
I took a look at the tekwiki page and saw those custom packages. Pretty cool looking -- like scaled-down old-style point-contact "catwhisker" detectors from the days of crystal radio.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If it were my unit, I'd remove the holders and just solder the replacements directly onto the board to avoid all the parasitics that would come from trying to make the replacement diodes physically emulate the original ones. But that's me. The manual has some pages on small differences between the GaAs and Si diode circuits, by the way, so you might want to take a look at that info if you haven't already. -- Cheers, Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070 On 12/17/2021 18:54, n4buq wrote:
Thanks, Tom. The existing diodes are tiny glass(?) cylinders with metal ends that clip into small holders (much like the old fashioned clip-in fuses). I suppose I'll be doing some plumbing for whatever I find to replace them. |
|
Re: 465M parts
Did you check the 32v unregulated supply voltage? There is a jumper, but there is also definitely a fuse in the 32v Unregulated supply located on the A1 board. Check the 455 POWER SUPPLY schematic, see F736. 32V unregulated supply feeds the HV transformer T550, if F736 is blown, the HV transformer does not receive any power. No power to the HV transformer, no HV. The 32v supply will also be out of action, as the 32v supply is also derived from the 32V unregulated supply. I have a 455 and I had this very problem with mine.
-- Michael Lynch Dardanelle, AR |
|
Re: OT: microwave oven blows fuse
Thank you very much, Ben. That squares with the information provided by some other contributor. I'd never studied the complete logic of how the safety interlocks worked. Good to know that there exists a failure mode that can pop the fuse, yet doesn't involve the power supplies.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-- Cheers, Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070 On 12/17/2021 19:15, benwetzel via groups.io wrote:
Hello everyone, I have been reading on this board and not knowing the answers till I got to this post. I have been repairing commercial food equipment for 20 plus years and microwaves are part of that. What is going on here is the door interlock switch is worn out, the hook on the door latch has worn the plastic in the interlock switch and messed up the timing of the limit switches. The door interlock has three switches, primary, secondary, and the monitor. As the door opens, both primary and secondary must open before the Monitor closes. Primary and secondary are in both legs of power supplied to high voltage transformer, in this case hot and neutral. Monitor is across both legs, again hot and neutral in this case. This causes a dead short and blows the main fuse if either primary or secondary interlock switch is not open before the Monitor closes. Primary and secondary are normally open and monitor is normally closed. If the HV transformer burns and causes high current draw this usually blows the breaker for the outlet and leaves fuse in microwave fine. The reason for this is to prevent opening the door with magnetron putting out microwaves and cooking the person that opens the door or pacemaker interference. If we run into a unit that has a blown main fuse we automatically replace the door interlock switch, don't pass go just do it. The door hook slamming into the plastic of the interlock switch wears the plastic where it eventuality makes the primary and secondary not open fast enough before monitor closes and blows the extremely fast blow fuse preventing relay or limit switch contacts from welding closed. You need a new interlock switch and fuse. |
|
Re: OT: microwave oven blows fuse
Hello everyone, I have been reading on this board and not knowing the answers till I got to this post. I have been repairing commercial food equipment for 20 plus years and microwaves are part of that. What is going on here is the door interlock switch is worn out, the hook on the door latch has worn the plastic in the interlock switch and messed up the timing of the limit switches. The door interlock has three switches, primary, secondary, and the monitor. As the door opens, both primary and secondary must open before the Monitor closes. Primary and secondary are in both legs of power supplied to high voltage transformer, in this case hot and neutral. Monitor is across both legs, again hot and neutral in this case. This causes a dead short and blows the main fuse if either primary or secondary interlock switch is not open before the Monitor closes. Primary and secondary are normally open and monitor is normally closed. If the HV transformer burns and causes high current draw this usually blows the breaker for the outlet and leaves fuse in microwave fine. The reason for this is to prevent opening the door with magnetron putting out microwaves and cooking the person that opens the door or pacemaker interference. If we run into a unit that has a blown main fuse we automatically replace the door interlock switch, don't pass go just do it. The door hook slamming into the plastic of the interlock switch wears the plastic where it eventuality makes the primary and secondary not open fast enough before monitor closes and blows the extremely fast blow fuse preventing relay or limit switch contacts from welding closed. You need a new interlock switch and fuse.
|
|
Re: Internal Drive Mechanism for 7B53N (et., al.) Sweep Speed Cam
I will have to try removing that retaining ring and go from there. I'm afraid that even if I can do that and release the tubing so that it comes out the front, I still may not be able to get the disk out of the larger hole in the back of the drum but I don't have anything to lose at this point so I'm going to give it a try.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney@...> Yes, it's clearly been a long time since I've had to work on one of these. I was |
|
Re: Type 106
"BAV17" (typo).
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "n4buq" <n4buq@...> On second look, the DAV17 comes in a DO-35 package. I think I can solder some |
|
Re: Type 106
On second look, the DAV17 comes in a DO-35 package. I think I can solder some small-diameter tubing to the leads right up against the diode's body and clip it in to the existing holders.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "n4buq" <n4buq@...> Thanks, Tom. The existing diodes are tiny glass(?) cylinders with metal ends |
|
Re: Type 106
Thanks, Tom. The existing diodes are tiny glass(?) cylinders with metal ends that clip into small holders (much like the old fashioned clip-in fuses). I suppose I'll be doing some plumbing for whatever I find to replace them.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Lee" <tomlee@...> Based on the fast-rise circuitry of the 106 and PG506 being similar and |
|
Re: Type 106
Based on the fast-rise circuitry of the 106 and PG506 being similar and having similar specs, you would seem to have several good Si-Schottky candidates. A few that come to mind are:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
MBD101 BAV17 HSMS-282x (15V breakdown makes these an upgrade over the stock diodes) These have slightly higher capacitance than the GaAs originals, but it's not enough to matter. I'm sure others will chime in shortly with their recommendations. -- Cheers Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070 On 12/17/2021 16:11, n4buq wrote:
Speaking of a 106, anyone know anything about the GaAs diodes in the Fast Rise outputs? I think one or two of mine are bad. The +OUTPUT works but not the -OUTPUT. Input to the two diodes on the -OUTPUT side looks okay but at the junction between the two, the signal is not correct and the output is not correct at all. |
|
Re: Type 106
Speaking of a 106, anyone know anything about the GaAs diodes in the Fast Rise outputs? I think one or two of mine are bad. The +OUTPUT works but not the -OUTPUT. Input to the two diodes on the -OUTPUT side looks okay but at the junction between the two, the signal is not correct and the output is not correct at all.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I've never seen diodes constructed like these before and don't expect I'll find direct replacements but am wondering could be used as replacements. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "saipan59 (Pete)" <saipan1959@...> Ah, so your earlier "my bad" message meant to say that nothing is actually wrong |
|
Re: Type 106
On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 11:00 AM, saipan59 (Pete) wrote:
Yes, but no. Everything is fine. As you understood, I was not probing at the right place. I was misled by the +/- 9.1V beneath the capacitors, so I probed there because it was an easy access. |
|
Re: Type 106
Ah, so your earlier "my bad" message meant to say that nothing is actually wrong with the +/-10 rails. Got it.
However, regarding: "Instead of checking voltages between chassis ground and directly at both emitters, I probed between ground and + C215/ C218. According to the schematic, this should be the same. But apparently not" You MUST get the same values at the Emitters and at +C215 and -C218 ! If you don't, you've got a measurement problem, OR those caps are not actually connected like they should be. Note that those rails *may* appear to work fine, even if C215 and C218 are missing... Pete |
Mlynch001
saipan59 (Pete)
to navigate to use esc to dismiss