开云体育

Quite a few years ago, I came across my first broken Tek-made VAR pot, the grey plastic ones. The plastic had broken near where the shaft enters, so that the set screw could no longer bind tightly to the shaft. As spares seemed like they might be hard to find, I came up with a more permanent solution, which you can see here:

/g/TekScopes/photo/262268/1 and also the following photo

These rings are tapped 4-40, the same as the OE set screws, but the ring encircles the cross-shaped portion of the pot allowing plenty of tightening of the set screw. The new, longer, set screw passes thru the original 4-40 hole, but does not use those threads, so this repair will fix a pot with stripped threads or fractured plastic there.

I made a supply of these for myself and have used a half dozen of them on various 3 series plugins. They take up almost no more room than the original pot, so I've yet to encounter a place where this wasn't a quick and neat fix. I have a small supply of these if anyone needs one, or feel free to copy the idea and make your own.

Why attribute that to me?

I didn't write the statement you quote as being mine,
but I can see where it would make sense.

Try it this way:

Pink paint can be used to repaint a red fire truck,
but pink paint is not recommended to repaint a red fire truck.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 12:40:58 -0700 "Jim Adney" <jadney@...>
wrote:

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 01:46 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:

A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is
not recommended to replace a 1 type.

Pretty sure there's a typo in here somewhere.... ;-)

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 01:46 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:

A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is
not recommended to replace a 1 type.

Pretty sure there's a typo in here somewhere.... ;-)

Greetings everyone,
I have a question to ask you: with a Tektronix 492AP spectrum analyzer connected to the PC via the Prologix GP-IB to USB adapter and launching the HP 7470A emulator program on the PC with the appropriate connection configuration settings, it is possible to receive the plot of the 492 AP screen on the PC ?

Thanks for your attention.
-- Cheers
Attilio

I have been looking for a few of the long pointed tips for my P6008 low capacitance probe, but nothing popped up until I found someone on ebay selling them in batches of 20. That's way more than I needed, but the price was right. I'm hoping a few of you out there would like to share in this windfall. They have arrived and are NOS, as advertised. I'm willing to sell as many or as few of these as you want, but postage and handling will make it more economical to buy several, rather than just one. I've posted a photo here:

/g/TekScopes/photo/262268/0

As you can see in the photo, these were military wrapped, each one in a sealed Tek plastic bag, then in a white Tek box, and then in a sealed foil pouch. If you want the whole works, it will cost more to ship. My preference will be to discard the foil pouch, flatten the white Tek box, and leave the tips sealed in the Tek plastic bags. Shipped that way, I figure $5 for packing/shipping, plus $1 per tip would be fair. My 1991 Tek catalog shows these for $1.91 each.

Not sure how many times I will need to post this on the forum, but here's Hugo Holden"s brilliant do-it-yourself battery/ram replacement with new technology:


And, yes, no matter how it's done, unless one has the means to read the old chip data and program it into the new, you will need to go through the full cal procedure. Probaly a good idea anyway given passage of time....

Reinhard

Not that I have ever seen. There are some versions of
the manual that have two capacitor numbers swapped on the
parts diagram... But, if you remove the old, and stuff
the new capacitors one at a time, that won't be a problem.

Where there is a problem is in replacing the SMD capacitors
on the late series 2465B's. The polarity of these electrolytics
is not marked in an obvious way in all cases. The capacitor
that is away on the corner of the board is not marked.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 14:11:51 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:

Thanks for clarifying that, Chuck.

Was there a different model where that was a problem? I seem to
recall the issue but don't recall which model(s) were affected.
Hopefully I'm not crossing up Tek and HP with this...

Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----

From: "Chuck Harris" <cfharris@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 12:57:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Recapping Tektronix 2465

All of the capacitors on the 2465 supplies have their polarity
markers pointing in the same direction. A few are non-polar
electrolytics, which don't matter.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 13:46:03 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:

I don't recall exactly to which model(s) this may apply, but I
think one of the 24xx models have the polarity marked incorrectly
on the PC board for one of the filter capacitors. Apologies if I
have this confused with a completely different model/series but I
thought it worthy of mentioning here.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----

From: "Ozan" <ozan_g@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 11:37:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Recapping Tektronix 2465

You may already know but at least in some service manuals
component placement diagram shows location of C1132 and C1115
swapped (wrong). This was the case for my 2467B, I assume it
also applies to 2465B. While desoldering take a note of the
original value to make sure. Ozan

iv3ddm

C1132 would be 160V. C1120 can be 100V. C1130 would be
160V. If you want
to use the original values of capacitance, fine. They can be
higher capacitance if you want. C1101 and C1102 would be 25V.
If I put 16V numbers there, it was my mistake. In mine, I
used 16V or 25V types (I do not have mine open at this time)
for the 5V supplies and 35V for the 15V supplies. These I had
in stock along with some other parts. I ordered what I
needed. The 330mfd Mr. Yachad says to use, I did. The kit he
sells is nice. He is exactly
right about the film caps! Replace those! The X1 and Y1 can be
used if you want even higher voltage capacity than the 2
types. In mine, the 1 types are
400-500VAC types. A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is
not recommended
to replace a 1 type. The ones Mr. Yachad uses are also an
excellent/ideal choice. If you are on 230-240V mains, the
higher voltage caps are best. If you
have not already done so, go to Mr. Yachad's site about 2465B
recapping. I used that site as a reference do to mine. It
was my first time working on this
model. I did notice in mine the two 39meg resistors (R710 and
R910) on the bottom board were high, 45 and 50meg, and the
100meg on the high voltage board
was 170meg. They are now 40 and 100meg respectively. I could
not get 39meg without a long string of resistors. Mine also
did not have R1010 and R1019 across the NTCs. That was
factory done.

Mark

Thanks for clarifying that, Chuck.

Was there a different model where that was a problem? I seem to recall the issue but don't recall which model(s) were affected. Hopefully I'm not crossing up Tek and HP with this...

Barry - N4BUQ

All of the capacitors on the 2465 supplies have their polarity
markers pointing in the same direction. A few are non-polar
electrolytics, which don't matter.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 13:46:03 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:

I don't recall exactly to which model(s) this may apply, but I think
one of the 24xx models have the polarity marked incorrectly on the PC
board for one of the filter capacitors. Apologies if I have this
confused with a completely different model/series but I thought it
worthy of mentioning here.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----

From: "Ozan" <ozan_g@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 11:37:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Recapping Tektronix 2465

You may already know but at least in some service manuals component
placement diagram shows location of C1132 and C1115 swapped
(wrong). This was the case for my 2467B, I assume it also applies
to 2465B. While desoldering take a note of the original value to
make sure. Ozan

iv3ddm

C1132 would be 160V. C1120 can be 100V. C1130 would be 160V.
If you want
to use the original values of capacitance, fine. They can be
higher capacitance if you want. C1101 and C1102 would be 25V. If
I put 16V numbers there, it was my mistake. In mine, I used 16V
or 25V types (I do not have mine open at this time) for the 5V
supplies and 35V for the 15V supplies. These I had in stock along
with some other parts. I ordered what I needed. The
330mfd Mr. Yachad says to use, I did. The kit he sells is nice.
He is exactly
right about the film caps! Replace those! The X1 and Y1 can be
used if you want even higher voltage capacity than the 2 types.
In mine, the 1 types are
400-500VAC types. A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is not
recommended
to replace a 1 type. The ones Mr. Yachad uses are also an
excellent/ideal choice. If you are on 230-240V mains, the higher
voltage caps are best. If you
have not already done so, go to Mr. Yachad's site about 2465B
recapping. I used that site as a reference do to mine. It was my
first time working on this
model. I did notice in mine the two 39meg resistors (R710 and
R910) on the bottom board were high, 45 and 50meg, and the 100meg
on the high voltage board
was 170meg. They are now 40 and 100meg respectively. I could not
get 39meg without a long string of resistors. Mine also did not
have R1010 and R1019 across the NTCs. That was factory done.

Mark

Shielded mains cords just move the noise to the
next open spot, which is the unshielded plastic
boxes, and unshielded ROMEX wiring used in most
USA houses.

Better would be to put one of the snap-on ferrite
suppressors on the cord close to the scope.

I have done this on most of my electrically noisy
equipment, and it has done a super job of knocking
down the noise.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 10:37:57 -0700 "Mark Vincent"
<orangeglowaudio@...> wrote:

Ozan,

...

One thing that I have not seen mentioned, although it may have
in the past, is using shielded mains cords to reduce noise. I have
these on things that use IEC cords.

...

Mark

I don't recall exactly to which model(s) this may apply, but I think one of the 24xx models have the polarity marked incorrectly on the PC board for one of the filter capacitors. Apologies if I have this confused with a completely different model/series but I thought it worthy of mentioning here.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

Hi all, what is an OK functioning Tek 2205 worth in terms of
replacement parts? Does it have anything that's worth in order to
repair other scopes? I have someone who might give me one of those for
free but I'm not sure it's worth the shipping, to be honest. I already
have a bunch of good functioning Tek scopes, none from the 2k series,
mostly just 7k.

Thanks

Ozan,

I do know these can be swapped in some manuals. I made sure to change the parts one at a time to make sure. It is good to remind us to keep from blowing parts. Anyone of us can make a mistake somewhere.

One thing that I have not seen mentioned, although it may have in the past, is using shielded mains cords to reduce noise. I have these on things that use IEC cords. Computers, monitors, SMPS, being near enough to a-m/s-w/ssb transmitter, etc. generate noise that can interfere with other things. The shielding does help with the noise. I will use shielded cords on things as a replacement on other things that are or should be grounded.

Mark

You may already know but at least in some service manuals component placement diagram shows location of C1132 and C1115 swapped (wrong). This was the case for my 2467B, I assume it also applies to 2465B. While desoldering take a note of the original value to make sure.
Ozan

iv3ddm

C1132 would be 160V. C1120 can be 100V. C1130 would be 160V. If you want to use the original values of capacitance, fine. They can be higher capacitance if you want. C1101 and C1102 would be 25V. If I put 16V numbers there, it was my mistake. In mine, I used 16V or 25V types (I do not have mine open at this time) for the 5V supplies and 35V for the 15V supplies. These I had in stock along with some other parts. I ordered what I needed. The 330mfd Mr. Yachad says to use, I did. The kit he sells is nice. He is exactly right about the film caps! Replace those! The X1 and Y1 can be used if you want even higher voltage capacity than the 2 types. In mine, the 1 types are 400-500VAC types. A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is not recommended to replace a 1 type. The ones Mr. Yachad uses are also an excellent/ideal choice. If you are on 230-240V mains, the higher voltage caps are best. If you have not already done so, go to Mr. Yachad's site about 2465B recapping. I used that site as a reference do to mine. It was my first time working on this model. I did notice in mine the two 39meg resistors (R710 and R910) on the bottom board were high, 45 and 50meg, and the 100meg on the high voltage board was 170meg. They are now 40 and 100meg respectively. I could not get 39meg without a long string of resistors. Mine also did not have R1010 and R1019 across the NTCs. That was factory done.

Mark

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 04:30 AM, Oz-in-DFW wrote:

Free to a good home: Ciebo DS-750 development tools kit for Philips 87C750

I expect this is largely limited to historical interest, but I hate sending
this to the landfill if there is the remotest chance someone can use it.

Pick up in DFW area, or you cover shipping - it will fit in a medium flat rate
box ($15.50 in the US)

Pics are here:



--
Oz (in DFW) N1OZ

I’ll be more than happy to take it.

Cheers

Free to a good home: Ciebo DS-750 development tools kit for Philips 87C750

I expect this is largely limited to historical interest, but I hate sending this to the landfill if there is the remotest chance someone can use it.

Pick up in DFW area, or you cover shipping - it will fit in a medium flat rate box ($15.50 in the US)

Pics are here:



--
Oz (in DFW) N1OZ

Mark,

Reach out to Chuck Harris on this list. He replaced my NVRAM. Not sure if he would do just a board or well he needs the whole scope, but you can ask him.

Mark

647-ULD2C100MPD1TD for 10mfd. These are 160V.
647-UHE1C121MED for replacing the two 100mfd to the TO-220 rectifier. The additional capacitance of 20mfd will not hurt.

Sorry Mark, I ask for 2 clarifications:
I should use 647-ULD2C100MPD1TD (10uF, 160v.) Also instead of 10uF, 100v. (C1120 etc.) or only for C1132?

Which are the capacitors where to use of the 647-UHE1C121MED (120uF, 16v.) For the replacement of the two 100mfd to the TO-220 rectifier?
I only find 100uF, 25v capacitors.

Thanks a lot

The connection of the base to R593 is deleted.

It's strange. With a DMM I could not find a connection of 2N2907A-base to any other component in the neighborhood or a A/B contact. But then the pair of NPN transistors with their bases to the B7 and A16 inputs would be useless. Do I overlook something?
Albert


On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 09:00 PM, Albert Otten wrote:

The solution with reduced value of R693 seems to have disadvantages also,
otherwise Tek would have done so I think.
That might be the reason that P600 has been introduced to enable/disable
interdot blanking. In the open position the PNP 2N2907A is shut off
completely. In the closed position the situation is as before. (I avoid
Q690/Q694 numbering.)
The next version of P600 is wired differently. When closed it it ties the
base of the 2N2907A to GND. The connection of the base to R593 is deleted. In
the closed position interdot blanking works, and works always, i.e.
independent of what happens at A16 and B7. When P600 is open the situation is
the same as with the previous P600 version. This version explains why I see
the dot blanking in other traces so clearly. About 50% blank of between
samples period is completely blanked.

Albert