Hi Jouko,
Rise times add approximately in root-sum-squared fashion (square each rise time, sum them, then take the square-root of the result). So if you have a 2ns rise time amplifier in cascade with another 2ns rise time amplifier, the combination will have a 2.8ns rise time or thereabouts.
-- Cheers, Tom
-- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford Way Stanford University Stanford, CA 94305-4070
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2/22/2021 08:37, Jouko Koskinen wrote: Hello,
I tried by swapping one Q150 from working unit. That brought input signal to screen. I acquired two Q150 as both channels were similar and showed only 340k input resistance. Those are now in place and partial calibration (not HF compensation) is done. The unit seems to be working. Rise time is roughly 3ns in 7603 frame (Leo Bodnar pulser). The frame itself with 067-0587-01 calibration fixture showed 2ns rise time. Does that sound logical?
Fortunately I didn't have to take the cleaning challenge...
Regards, Jouko
|
Hello,
I tried by swapping one Q150 from working unit. That brought input signal to screen. I acquired two Q150 as both channels were similar and showed only 340k input resistance. Those are now in place and partial calibration (not HF compensation) is done. The unit seems to be working. Rise time is roughly 3ns in 7603 frame (Leo Bodnar pulser). The frame itself with 067-0587-01 calibration fixture showed 2ns rise time. Does that sound logical?
Fortunately I didn't have to take the cleaning challenge...
Regards, Jouko
|
Transformation TR503 into TR502
Hello everybody, I am writing about the attempt to transform my TR503 into TR502 to use it with the SA 7L13. I started by replacing the 55 MHz crystal with a 52.5 MHz one (thanks James) and after some testing I added a 180 ohm resistor in series with R412 on the "Iosc" circuit to bring the oscillator to 2095 MHz (thanks to Miguel and Ed). Then I re-calibrated the four-cavity filter to 2200 MHz. Now it works quite well up to a BW Resolution of 300 Hz (on Max span the amplitude variation is in the 2 dB), but when switching the resolution at 30 Hz the output signal from the TR503 drops by - 30 dBm and it is not possible to bring it back to normal level by acting on the "Tracking Adjust" of the TR503. At the moment I don't know what to do, could it be the four cavity BPF that is not calibrated precisely?
Thanks for your help. --Cheers Attilio
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Locked
Re: Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound? FOLLOWUP
In my experience, there is epoxy, and there is EPOXY!
The stuff used on IC's, is EPOXY! The stuff used for potting generally has additives that make it epoxy.
One thing they don't want to happen in potted assemblies is for EPOXY! to grab onto a delicate part and break it from thermal expansion/contraction. So, the additives make the resulting product less apt to bond well, and a bit flexible.
Comic Red Green once said... actually he always said: "Duct Tape! is there anything you can't do with it?"
I think the same applies to LN2. When you have a large dewar of LN2 in your lab, frittering itself away into nothingness, you tend to find ways of using it before its cold leaks out. Fun ensues!
-Chuck Harris
- wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dennis,
A friend of mine is always disassembling things and reverse engineering them so I sent your message to him. He replied and that me that one of the guys that he used with work with at Litton Laser told him that he used to removing potting compound by dipping the item into liquid Nitrogen and leaving it there until the nitrogen quit boiling and then took it out and tapped it with a hammer and that the coating would shatter and fail off. I have to wonder what that treatment would do to the plastic bodies of transistors and other items but it might be worth a try. IMO you might need to leave the item in the liquid Nitrogen for a bit less time to prevent the plastic items from getting too cold and too hard and brittle. But the good thing about this method is that there are no dangerous chemicals to deal with and even the liquid Nitrogen just boils away so there's nothing to dispose of except the potting compound itself.
FWIW
On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:37 PM Dennis Tillman W7pF <dennis@...> wrote:
Thank you one and all for your suggestions on removing the potting. Your suggestions fell into two general categories: 1) Nasty chemicals which I decided had to be avoided at all costs based on your advice. 2) Heat. This seemed like a slightly better approach than the chemical one.
But before I get to what happened when I applied heat I learned many new things along the way thanks to a few of our members and especially, Ed Breya. Ed's comments explained in detail how these HV potted power supplies worked. That led me to an amazing web site that has a staggering amount of information on them about every aspect of lasers of all kinds including their HV Power Supplies. If anyone is interested the site is
I have to caution you that I spent hours roaming around in all Sam had to say. He is an incredible resource for anyone who owns a laser. I found many different power supply circuits and details about laser HV modules which is what I apparently blew out that prompted me to ask about removing the potting in the first place.
With suggestions from Ed Breya I tried using the other more powerful potted HV laser supply I had. It was going to try and force too much current through the spectrum tubes so I added additional ballast resistors and connected it to a Variac so I had some control over the High Voltage and the constant current With this arrangement I was able to test every one of the spectrum tubes (I have over 20 different ones each containing a different gas) to determine their breakdown voltage and their steady state current requirements. That told me what I should be looking for to replace the Laser HV supply that I blew out.
In Sam's web site I found the design and schematic for a power supply designed by the legendary Jim Williams of Linear Technology. It was a universal design capable of powering every one of the spectrum tubes I had. I ordered the parts to build it.
I still wanted to see what I might learn from removing the potting of my failed HV Laser supply so for $15 I bought a toaster oven at a thrift shop. I set it up outside, set the temp to 200F (93C) for 30 minutes and poked it with a sharp tool. Nothing happened. At 250F (120C) it got a little softer and a few cracks appeared. At 300F (150C) I was able to chip off the bottom and see the solder side of the PCB. A few of the sides also chipped off. This was starting to work.
Since the oven was on the ground it was hard to see the temperature knob from the angle I was standing but I raised the temperature once again by the same amount.
30 minutes later when I checked on it, it was smoking. I would rather not say what the reading on the thermocouple was but I will tell you it was way over 260C (500F). When I touched the potting the PC board fell away from the rest of the potting. I knew immediately that was to be expected since solder melts at a lot less than 260C. The parts fell away from the epoxy, by barely touching them but of course there was no way to know what they used to be connected to anymore. The entire thing was a mess.
It did teach me some things. Heat is definitely safer than chemicals to remove potting but realistically even with carefully controlled heat potting is not going to give up its secrets easily or cleanly. I now have an "oven" I can use for soldering surface mount parts with whenever I find something I can't build with a through hole parts.
In the end TekScopes members led me to a solution for an excellent HV Power Supply for my Spectrum Tubes in the form of the Jim William's Linear Technology Application Note 49, August 1992, titled "Illumination Circuitry for Liquid Crystal Displays". His design is shown in Appendix D. "Figure D1: Laser Power Supply is Essentially a 10KV Compliance Variable Current Source".
Thank you Ed and many others who offered their suggestions
Dennis Tillman W7pF
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dennis Tillman W7pF Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:19 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [TekScopes] Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound?
I need to dissolve the black HV potting compound of a 12VDC powered Helium-Neon laser inverter power supply I have that stopped working. I would appreciate any suggestions on what works to do this. I¡¯m guessing it may be epoxy. I stuck the tip of a hot soldering iron in it for a few seconds without much effect.
When it was working it turned out to be perfect for powering gas filled Spectrum Tubes. These spectrum tubes (smaller versions of neon signs) filled with a variety of gasses are an excellent source of spectral lines for the 7J20 / J20 Rapid Scan (Optical) Spectrometer to measure.
Spectrum tubes require an initial high voltage (1,000V to 1,500V for example) to break down the gas and start it conducting. Once the gas in the spectrum tube conducts the voltage across the gas drops (250V to 450V for example) and unless you limit the current (to a few mA) it will destroy the tube. Can anyone can point me to a source of information on how to determine the proper voltage and current I need to power these spectrum tubes? Is there a web site or group devoted to Spectrum Tubes?
Something happened to the inverter and it stopped working. The input is now open. The inverter is a black potted brick 3¡± x 1?¡± x 1¡±. The ballast resistor has continuity so that is not the problem. The original label on the inverter is partially destroyed so I can¡¯t tell what its initial high voltage output was or what it current limits at. All I do know is that it was made by Laser Drive Inc. 5465 Wm. Flynn Hwy. Gibsonia, PA 15044 Model: 1150-6330, S/N: 610574 The input was +12VDC at 0.35A.
I wrote to the company that took over the company that took over Laser Drive Inc. asking if they could tell me the output voltage and limiting current but I didn¡¯t receive a reply.
At this point I am hoping if I can remove the potting compound I can figure out what went wrong with it.
I have a different, bigger Laser Drive Inc. potted inverter which is powered by 115VAC. It puts out 2350VDC at 6.5mA. This causes the Spectrum Tubes to flicker. They do not run continuously. I am guessing that this because 6.5mA is more current than the tube can conduct. The amount of current the tube draws increases in proportion to the inside diameter of the tube but I »å´Ç²Ô¡¯³Ù know much about this matching the power supply to the tube. All I do know is the one that went bad seems to be an ideal match for the spectrum tubes I have.
Battery operated (DC input) inverters are much more desirable than AC input inverters for this application because the AC rectification and poor filtering shows up on the output DC as significant ripple causing the amplitude of each spectral line to be blurred.
Dennis Tillman W7pF
-- Dennis Tillman W7pF TekScopes Moderator
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Locked
Re: Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound? FOLLOWUP
I de-pot epoxy potted assemblies frequently, and I use heat.
First, I put the device in my environmental chamber set for 150C. When it is good and hot, I bring it to my bench, and use a combination of a 1/8" blade screwdriver, and the hot air gun from my SMD rework station (set to 300C). When it starts to get too hard to pick at, it goes back into the environmental chamber for a while...
I pick at the epoxy, which the heat has turned into a rubber eraser consistency, while applying heat from my SMD hot air gun. Usually a rocking motion with the blade of the screwdriver works best (rotating back and forth so this edge, and then that edge of the blade touches...). Spare your good and sharp screwdrivers from this duty. One that has its edges worn dull from years of use and abuse is best...
Elbow grease needs to be applied in copious amounts, though not much force is necessary, you don't want to break stuff.
The epoxy generally releases from points of dissimilar materials pretty easily... in other words, the epoxy bond sucks.
-Chuck Harris
Redguuz via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi,
Epoxies are thermoharders, which means that, once set (from mixing 2 base components) , you cannot melt them any more (unlike thermoplast e.g. poly ethylene, PVC, Polypropylene), see also
So meltingan epoxy potted circuit, by applying heat is impossible (same story for other well known thermoharders loike bakelite, nitrilrubbers etc.).You cannot melt car tyres.
Also Epoxies are chemically very inert (so dissolving it with nasty chemicals is not only very dangerous but would dissolve the components you are looking at.
Judiciously softening epoxy potted circuits by heat can be done (see photo of a "depotted"Motorcycle / aeroplane voltage regulator),but you have to control the temperature much better than you did (your temperature steps were too coarse) and it takes a lot of "Elbow Grease".
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Re: What years were tunnel diodes designed into Tek instruments?
Brooke Clark on his PRC68.com website reminisced about his days working for Aertech testing tunnel diodes. This excerpt is gratuitously stolen from his website:
"Early tunnel diodes were made by hand one at a time. A small sphere of metal was alloyed to a chip of semiconductor material (Germanium, Gallium arsenide, or Gallium Antimonide) The chip was die attached into a metal ceramic package and then had a gold screen bonded from one side of the package flange to the metal sphere and to the other side of the package, like a bridge. Then the diode was etched in a caustic solution forming a mushroom shaped cross section. The stem of the mushroom was extremely narrow and the actual junction was in this stem. An improvement to that process involved gluing a couple of very small diameter glass rods (made by pulling a hot glass rod) on either side of the metal ball after sintering and before attaching the mesh. The rods tended to take some of the stress off of the tunnel junction and make the diode much more reliable. The coefficient of thermal expansion of the glass was chosen to be close to the material of the tunnel diode.
Later a "planar process" was developed that allowed back diodes to be made at the wafer level. This is used at Metelics. "
I recall that at University of Maryland one of my professors, HC Lin, had his graduate students making diodes and LED's by hand in his lab... Nothing but bench work...
Perhaps with a little guidance from Brooke, some members could start making tunnel diodes?
-Chuck Harris
Tom Lee wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Great, Jeff. It looks like we¡¯ve managed to narrow the window considerably. So it¡¯s looking like the Age of the TD started around 1961 and ended almost exactly 20 years later. Not a bad run for an oddball device.
Sent from my iThing, so please forgive typos and brevity.
On Feb 21, 2021, at 10:27 PM, Jeff Dutky <jeff.dutky@...> wrote:
?Tom,
Concerning the last use of tunnel diodes:
The 465B, introduced in 1980, uses tunnel diodes, the 2215, introduced in 1982, does not. Is that merely a result of the lower bandwidth of the 2215 versus the 465B (60 MHz versus 100 MHz)? If so, then we can take a more comparable instrument to be the 2235, introduced in 1984, also without tunnel diodes. That puts a pretty narrow windows on the end of the tunnel diode era.
-- Jeff Dutky
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Hi all, I still wasn¡¯t able to solve the ¡°ripple¡± issue of my 465B. Apparently, as someone mentioned at some point, there is effectively 2 triggered traces. I could clearly see them. I have no idea how to fix this. It¡¯s apparently not a supply ripple issue... I¡¯m at a loss... If you enlarge the picture, you¡¯ll see it on both the A and B sweeps... It¡¯s disconcerting... /g/TekScopes/photo/260052/0?p=Created,,,50,2,0,0
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Nenad Filipovic
If you are interested I have some working units available for sale. Contact me off list for details.
Craig
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I own a pg506 taken as broken (really broken, no powers up) for about 80 euros 5 years ago. Repaired, ii works since then. It's the only TM500 plugin I have, and I use it to calibrate 7000 mainframes that I repair/restore. Now I've tried to search for TG501, FG503, SG503 on ebay: I was blown away by the prices.
Two days ago I noticed one nice TG501: the auction started from 50 euro. An honest price should be 150/200 euro. Auction ended up to more than 250 euro. It's more than my budget. Many other plugins have simply absurd prices: 350, 500, 700, up to 1000 $!!!! Note that the TM500 plugins are overpriced while 7000 series plugins they can be bought at much more honest prices.
The TM500 plugins which I am looking for, would be useful for my job, not to put they on a shelf to exhibits....
Max
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Hello all: PG506 are tricky to buy on epay: hard to fix as cleaning the switches or replacing certain ICs is not easy.
Virtually no sellers on epay can properly test all the functions. So expect repairs.
I was fortunate to get two a decade ago, one from a silent key friend.
Both in fine condition, prices perhaps $100 and $250, in 2010.
These fine untis are worth the cost if you calibrate or repair a lot of scopes especially 2465/7/A/B.
Kind Regards,
Jon
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Re: 2N3904 B-E junction as fast diode substitute?
C-B junctions can often be used as low-leakage diodes... I'm surprised that E-B are also considered low-leakage, given the low breakdown. Must do a comparison some day :-)
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Locked
Re: Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound? FOLLOWUP
Dennis, A friend of mine is always disassembling things and reverse engineering them so I sent your message to him. He replied and that me that one of the guys that he used with work with at Litton Laser told him that he used to removing potting compound by dipping the item into liquid Nitrogen and leaving it there until the nitrogen quit boiling and then took it out and tapped it with a hammer and that the coating would shatter and fail off. I have to wonder what that treatment would do to the plastic bodies of transistors and other items but it might be worth a try. IMO you might need to leave the item in the liquid Nitrogen for a bit less time to prevent the plastic items from getting too cold and too hard and brittle. But the good thing about this method is that there are no dangerous chemicals to deal with and even the liquid Nitrogen just boils away so there's nothing to dispose of except the potting compound itself. FWIW On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:37 PM Dennis Tillman W7pF <dennis@...> wrote: Thank you one and all for your suggestions on removing the potting. Your suggestions fell into two general categories: 1) Nasty chemicals which I decided had to be avoided at all costs based on your advice. 2) Heat. This seemed like a slightly better approach than the chemical one.
But before I get to what happened when I applied heat I learned many new things along the way thanks to a few of our members and especially, Ed Breya. Ed's comments explained in detail how these HV potted power supplies worked. That led me to an amazing web site that has a staggering amount of information on them about every aspect of lasers of all kinds including their HV Power Supplies. If anyone is interested the site is
I have to caution you that I spent hours roaming around in all Sam had to say. He is an incredible resource for anyone who owns a laser. I found many different power supply circuits and details about laser HV modules which is what I apparently blew out that prompted me to ask about removing the potting in the first place.
With suggestions from Ed Breya I tried using the other more powerful potted HV laser supply I had. It was going to try and force too much current through the spectrum tubes so I added additional ballast resistors and connected it to a Variac so I had some control over the High Voltage and the constant current With this arrangement I was able to test every one of the spectrum tubes (I have over 20 different ones each containing a different gas) to determine their breakdown voltage and their steady state current requirements. That told me what I should be looking for to replace the Laser HV supply that I blew out.
In Sam's web site I found the design and schematic for a power supply designed by the legendary Jim Williams of Linear Technology. It was a universal design capable of powering every one of the spectrum tubes I had. I ordered the parts to build it.
I still wanted to see what I might learn from removing the potting of my failed HV Laser supply so for $15 I bought a toaster oven at a thrift shop. I set it up outside, set the temp to 200F (93C) for 30 minutes and poked it with a sharp tool. Nothing happened. At 250F (120C) it got a little softer and a few cracks appeared. At 300F (150C) I was able to chip off the bottom and see the solder side of the PCB. A few of the sides also chipped off. This was starting to work.
Since the oven was on the ground it was hard to see the temperature knob from the angle I was standing but I raised the temperature once again by the same amount.
30 minutes later when I checked on it, it was smoking. I would rather not say what the reading on the thermocouple was but I will tell you it was way over 260C (500F). When I touched the potting the PC board fell away from the rest of the potting. I knew immediately that was to be expected since solder melts at a lot less than 260C. The parts fell away from the epoxy, by barely touching them but of course there was no way to know what they used to be connected to anymore. The entire thing was a mess.
It did teach me some things. Heat is definitely safer than chemicals to remove potting but realistically even with carefully controlled heat potting is not going to give up its secrets easily or cleanly. I now have an "oven" I can use for soldering surface mount parts with whenever I find something I can't build with a through hole parts.
In the end TekScopes members led me to a solution for an excellent HV Power Supply for my Spectrum Tubes in the form of the Jim William's Linear Technology Application Note 49, August 1992, titled "Illumination Circuitry for Liquid Crystal Displays". His design is shown in Appendix D. "Figure D1: Laser Power Supply is Essentially a 10KV Compliance Variable Current Source".
Thank you Ed and many others who offered their suggestions
Dennis Tillman W7pF
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dennis Tillman W7pF Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 6:19 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [TekScopes] Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound?
I need to dissolve the black HV potting compound of a 12VDC powered Helium-Neon laser inverter power supply I have that stopped working. I would appreciate any suggestions on what works to do this. I¡¯m guessing it may be epoxy. I stuck the tip of a hot soldering iron in it for a few seconds without much effect.
When it was working it turned out to be perfect for powering gas filled Spectrum Tubes. These spectrum tubes (smaller versions of neon signs) filled with a variety of gasses are an excellent source of spectral lines for the 7J20 / J20 Rapid Scan (Optical) Spectrometer to measure.
Spectrum tubes require an initial high voltage (1,000V to 1,500V for example) to break down the gas and start it conducting. Once the gas in the spectrum tube conducts the voltage across the gas drops (250V to 450V for example) and unless you limit the current (to a few mA) it will destroy the tube. Can anyone can point me to a source of information on how to determine the proper voltage and current I need to power these spectrum tubes? Is there a web site or group devoted to Spectrum Tubes?
Something happened to the inverter and it stopped working. The input is now open. The inverter is a black potted brick 3¡± x 1?¡± x 1¡±. The ballast resistor has continuity so that is not the problem. The original label on the inverter is partially destroyed so I can¡¯t tell what its initial high voltage output was or what it current limits at. All I do know is that it was made by Laser Drive Inc. 5465 Wm. Flynn Hwy. Gibsonia, PA 15044 Model: 1150-6330, S/N: 610574 The input was +12VDC at 0.35A.
I wrote to the company that took over the company that took over Laser Drive Inc. asking if they could tell me the output voltage and limiting current but I didn¡¯t receive a reply.
At this point I am hoping if I can remove the potting compound I can figure out what went wrong with it.
I have a different, bigger Laser Drive Inc. potted inverter which is powered by 115VAC. It puts out 2350VDC at 6.5mA. This causes the Spectrum Tubes to flicker. They do not run continuously. I am guessing that this because 6.5mA is more current than the tube can conduct. The amount of current the tube draws increases in proportion to the inside diameter of the tube but I »å´Ç²Ô¡¯³Ù know much about this matching the power supply to the tube. All I do know is the one that went bad seems to be an ideal match for the spectrum tubes I have.
Battery operated (DC input) inverters are much more desirable than AC input inverters for this application because the AC rectification and poor filtering shows up on the output DC as significant ripple causing the amplitude of each spectral line to be blurred.
Dennis Tillman W7pF
-- Dennis Tillman W7pF TekScopes Moderator
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- wrote: I don't bother with sniping. I simply put in the price that I'm willing to pay and that's it. And I don't go and watch the auction. People that do always think that if they raise their bid "just slightly" then they'll win the item. But seldom happens and all they do is to keep raising their bid until they win and then they suddenly realize that they paid an absurd price for something. I was at an auction years ago, and won some equipment. The guy I beat was mad. The next item up for bid was used IBM banking equipment. I bid $1 for a Gaylord full of assorted tiny monitors and printers. He bid $2, then I realized there were 15 more Gaylord boxes full, behind the auctioneer.. He got stuck with 16 Gaylords of mostly junk for $16 because I knew that I had no space for all of it. He was even more pissed, after that. While picking up my last load of items the auctioneer gave me several workbenches and some steel shelving that someone had won and paid for, but didn't comeback for. Unfortunately, there was a scrapper biding for and winning HP and Tektronix equipment for the gold. :(
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Locked
Re: Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound? FOLLOWUP
Hi,
Epoxies are thermoharders, which means that, once set (from mixing 2 base components) , you cannot melt them any more (unlike thermoplast e.g. poly ethylene, PVC, Polypropylene), see also
So meltingan epoxy potted circuit, by applying heat is impossible (same story for other well known thermoharders loike bakelite, nitrilrubbers etc.).You cannot melt car tyres.
Also Epoxies are chemically very inert (so dissolving it with nasty chemicals is not only very dangerous but would dissolve the components you are looking at.
Judiciously softening epoxy potted circuits by heat can be done (see photo of a "depotted"Motorcycle / aeroplane voltage regulator),but you have to control the temperature much better than you did (your temperature steps were too coarse) and it takes a lot of "Elbow Grease".
|
Re: What years were tunnel diodes designed into Tek instruments?
Great, Jeff. It looks like we¡¯ve managed to narrow the window considerably. So it¡¯s looking like the Age of the TD started around 1961 and ended almost exactly 20 years later. Not a bad run for an oddball device.
Sent from my iThing, so please forgive typos and brevity.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 21, 2021, at 10:27 PM, Jeff Dutky <jeff.dutky@...> wrote:
?Tom,
Concerning the last use of tunnel diodes:
The 465B, introduced in 1980, uses tunnel diodes, the 2215, introduced in 1982, does not. Is that merely a result of the lower bandwidth of the 2215 versus the 465B (60 MHz versus 100 MHz)? If so, then we can take a more comparable instrument to be the 2235, introduced in 1984, also without tunnel diodes. That puts a pretty narrow windows on the end of the tunnel diode era.
-- Jeff Dutky
|
Re: What years were tunnel diodes designed into Tek instruments?
Tom,
Concerning the last use of tunnel diodes:
The 465B, introduced in 1980, uses tunnel diodes, the 2215, introduced in 1982, does not. Is that merely a result of the lower bandwidth of the 2215 versus the 465B (60 MHz versus 100 MHz)? If so, then we can take a more comparable instrument to be the 2235, introduced in 1984, also without tunnel diodes. That puts a pretty narrow windows on the end of the tunnel diode era.
-- Jeff Dutky
|
Re: Modifying W Plugin to use 6DJ8 Tubes
On 21/02/2021 10:19 PM, Bill Perkins wrote: I know, it's seven years later. But I just acquired a Type W in the usual state, to wit, 8416's stolen.
It looks to me like there's enough empty space to fit a small mains-powered 18V regulated supply.
6DJ8 heater is 360mA vs 180mA 8416. Normally R290 drops 77-50 = 27V at 180mA. We need to drop 20V more.
1) Add R9290 110 ohm 5W (20V at 180mA) in series with R290 2) Add isolated regulated 18V 6.3VAC-powered supply across V124-V214-V114. It will put out 180mA, raising V124-V214-V114 to its nominal 360mA so they will drop their nominal 18V.
This can be done with a 24V transformer on pins 13-14 with primary and secondary reversed, rectifier, filter, and LM317. The transformer needs to have low magnetic field because it's right next to the tubes.
Unless a miracle drops a few 8416's in my pocket, I might try this sometime. But I'll try 12AT7s first. I wouldn't, those parts aren't even remotely alike. The 'DJ has half the mu and three times the gm. Bill
8416s on eBay for rational money compared to the rest of the offerings: Bill
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Re: Modifying W Plugin to use 6DJ8 Tubes
I know, it's seven years later. But I just acquired a Type W in the usual state, to wit, 8416's stolen. It looks to me like there's enough empty space to fit a small mains-powered 18V regulated supply. 6DJ8 heater is 360mA vs 180mA 8416. Normally R290 drops 77-50 = 27V at 180mA. We need to drop 20V more. 1) Add R9290 110 ohm 5W (20V at 180mA) in series with R290 2) Add isolated regulated 18V 6.3VAC-powered supply across V124-V214-V114. It will put out 180mA, raising V124-V214-V114 to its nominal 360mA so they will drop their nominal 18V. This can be done with a 24V transformer on pins 13-14 with primary and secondary reversed, rectifier, filter, and LM317. The transformer needs to have low magnetic field because it's right next to the tubes. Unless a miracle drops a few 8416's in my pocket, I might try this sometime. But I'll try 12AT7s first. I wouldn't, those parts aren't even remotely alike. The 'DJ has half the mu and three times the gm. Bull
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I meant an alternative to a PG506, not an alternative to eBay...
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Re: TM500 Mainframe Tester construction master thread.
I was reporting the diode designator was incorrect in the "customer reference" field of the DigiKey BOM (which gets printed on the component bags), not in the manual.
Minor typos/copy-pasta in manual: - Step IV - PNP Short/Leakage (Page 7) - The first sentence of the procedure references an NPN transistor instead of a PNP. -Second sentence: "meter reading drifts down to zero" should read "meter reading drifts up towards zero"
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