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Re: Slightly OT: How can I dissolve Potting Compound?

 

On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 08:39 AM, George Kerber wrote:


Attack Epoxy Solvent
Like... with bottled water... one is relying on the company/manufacturer's claim the product is "safe" and "effective."
I note that according to public information the product mentioned allegedly has dichloromethane... and also ... another chemical component.
The effects of dichlormethane (a.k.a. DCM) on cured epoxy compounds have been discussed in the current thread.
The other component... which is added... and which I suggest, is added to allow the DCM to remain in solution longer (as DCM evaporates readily)... and also to allow washing with water.
If you have experience with a commercial/industrial product, or the product's manufacturer, and have received training, or "adequate" instructions in how to "safely" use the product... and are willing to spend more money (sometimes a lot more)... then sometimes these industrial/commercial products can be a better fit.
If you go with a commercial/industrial product... then IMO, good luck in recovering your losses, should their be any.
If you just want to go with "generic" strait DCM... then perhaps the onus is on the user, as to whether they understand what DCM is, and known to do, and could do.


Re: Early 7904, no readout

 

Look at the TekWiki site. There are several manuals there. I don¡¯t know what S/N ranges they cover.

DaveD

On Jan 5, 2021, at 17:30, Bruce Atwood <CCDman1@...> wrote:

My new (to me) s/n B041515 7904 arrived DOA. (ebay, "not working, for parts".) With the help of my mostly trusty DSO138 I found the shorted 47/25V dipped tantalum on the -15 supply. Replaced it with a 470/25V aluminum electrolytic, 'cause that's what I had. It now has a beautiful and bright trace. I have ordered what I hope is an original paper manual for the early 7904s. The read outs do not work and all the manuals I have found online are for the later version, s/n B26000 and up. While waiting for USPS is there a downloadable version of the early manual somewhere? Point me to it please. thanks
PD I'm in the market for a 7A19 and a 7A26, any advice welcome.





Re: Intermittent power on problems with 2465B

 

I hate to interject into this very interesting and exciting thread which I am finding much more interesting than CNN, but one thing does concern me. That is I have spent many hours searching for a trouble when the answer was far simpler. I would want to make absolutely certain that the problem wasn¡¯t in the AC side of things. I would take off the cover and set up to both measure the ac inside the scope and use a probe or clip lead to jumper the switch. If it doesn¡¯t help no harm no foul. But I would certainly check these two things before ripping the poor scope apart. Jm2?.


Re: Troubleshoot TEK 465

 

Wes,

What kind of signal are you applying to the input(s)?. How is your front panel set up? It could be a simple case of the front panel being set wrong.

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, AR


Re: Troubleshoot TEK 465

Bob Albert
 

Seems like an unblanking issue.? Trace the signal that is supposed to raise the CRT control grid potential during sweep.? Sweep gate.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021, 03:24:13 PM PST, wes Bolin <k5apl41@...> wrote:

I am trying to repair a TEK 465 oscilloscope that my friend bought from ebay.? It does not have a trace unless I push the Beam Finder button.? A trace then appears that I can move vertically, horizontally, focus and vary intensity.? I do have the sawtooth output from the Horizontal Amp that varies with the front panel switch position.? Where
do you suggest I look next?

I do have some test equipment to be used for troubleshooting.? I'm used to using scopes, not repairing them, so any help is sure appreciated.? Thanks.
Wes
Texarkana,? AR


Troubleshoot TEK 465

 

I am trying to repair a TEK 465 oscilloscope that my friend bought from ebay. It does not have a trace unless I push the Beam Finder button. A trace then appears that I can move vertically, horizontally, focus and vary intensity. I do have the sawtooth output from the Horizontal Amp that varies with the front panel switch position. Where
do you suggest I look next?

I do have some test equipment to be used for troubleshooting. I'm used to using scopes, not repairing them, so any help is sure appreciated. Thanks.
Wes
Texarkana, AR


Re: Peter Keller's Book Mailing Status (Minor Correction)

 

I don't dispute the issues you are experiencing with mail delivery but it is not like this .

Dennis
Not that it matters but my latest Media Mail experience is I shipped a book to Southern California Dec.8th. As of today it is just left a post office in NewJersey. USPS is really complicated anymore no reliability.

Craig


Re: Intermittent power on problems with 2465B

Chuck Harris
 

Histrionics, I love it!

You must live in an alternate universe from the rest of us.

I would rank electrolytic capacitors as being the second least
reliable part in modern electronics, narrowly being bumped from
first place by incandescent light bulbs...

But, I know of something that leaves even more damage in its
wake than bad electrolytic capacitors:

People who are not skilled in electronics construction and
repair, replacing good parts they heard someone on the internet
say might be bad.

I have been a practicing electrical engineer for 40 years now,
and I have seen just about every sort of part failure that can
happen over that time, but I have not seen electrolytic
capacitors take off like rockets and stick in a ceiling 8 feet up.

The closest I have seen to that is back when I used to do my
annual December 7th sacrifice of a Japanese electrolytic capacitor
in honor of those who lost their lives on Pearl Harbor day.

Those were hooked directly across the power line, and blew
instantly.

Your hyperbolic warnings will probably do more damage in the long
run than the capacitors you rant against.

-Chuck Harris

David Campbell wrote:

Re. recapping 2465B

Youre on the cusp of learning the *hard way* why advice to
NOT replace caps is extremely bad.

Out of the multiples of semi load after semi load of equipment
I worked on "back in the day" (very high volume consumer electronics
from tube to fine pitch SMT)Ive seen too many electrolytics and some
tantalums go 'knees up'
and leak, explode, literally take off like rockets and stick in a ceiling 8
feet up,
blow confetti across the room, destroy power supplies and even
turn power transformers into smoking piles of tar and iron.

And do circuit board damage...

Only a* FOOL* thinks they can get away with NOT recapping
and I do mean ALL of the caps. Its a crap shoot, a losing gamble
to trust any old cap.

Its a false Meme from the antique radio world that says
"I can get away with not replacing caps/ just testing them"

That Meme is from the world of working on an old AM broadcast or SW
receiver and attempting to keep it as near "stock " as possible.
The adventurous remove old caps and hide new ones inside.
The foolish ignore old caps...

Its EXTREMELY bad practice in anything worth keeping, such as high
end equipment like Tek.

Its a second Fools Errand and false meme to play the "bring it up on a
variac"
or "Ill reform a 50 year old cap." Delusional. The "bring it up on a
variac" meme was
for finding shorts that were hiding in equipment with linear power supplies
where just turning the thing on instantly blew the fuse. It is NOT a valid
or useful procedure for dealing with old caps, no matter how hard the
True Believers want it to be.

Ignore those advising anything but a total recap. *They wont be paying for
the damage their foolish advice causes.*

This is (presumably) high end, near scientific Tek (and other) test
equipent. If its not
worth $100 in caps and a days work, why bother? Just throw it in the
dumpster.

Signed, replaced more leaky, shorted and open caps than " theyll" see in 5
lifetimes...,






Re: Tek 7904 In Pulse Mode Related to C1511 on LV Regulator

 

I haven't looked at the schematic, so I can only speak in general terms. If that cap is indeed part of a loop compensator, I think it's ill advised to go about modifying it in any ad hoc way. Whether 0.1uF is "high" or "low" isn't related just to its value, it's a function of the impedance it sees, and of the gain of the loop. Speeding up the loop by dropping the value of the cap could endanger loop stability. A wildly oscillating switcher is not what you want!

-- Tom

--
Prof. Thomas H. Lee
Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
350 Jane Stanford Way
Stanford University
Stanford, CA 94305-4070

On 1/3/2021 16:05, rgpierce1@... wrote:
Hey Guys,

I'm in the process of (mostly done I think) repairing a 7904 power supply that goes into pulse mode. I replaced a number of the bad tantalums on the cap rectifier board which brought some supplies closer to where they needed to be but but did not keep the supply from going into pulse mode. Continuing to diagnose things I found that pulling C1511 on the LV regulator board solved the problem, however the cap I pulled isn't reading as a short and replacing with a known good causes the pulse mode to return. C1511 seems to be working as a speed up capacitor for the regulator (allowing high frequency transients to bypass R1514 in the ladder) but seems awful high at 0.1 uF for that purpose. I'm considering replacing with a much smaller value ceramic (like 100 pF). Does anyone have any experience/thoughts/suggestions with this? Could my -50V supply have a lot of noise on it from somewhere else that it shouldn't which is causing this cap to be a problem? I'm currently running the supply into a bank of resistive loads so it would have to come from a connection to one of the other supplies if this was the case.

Thanks for the help.
Ricky




Early 7904, no readout

 

My new (to me) s/n B041515 7904 arrived DOA. (ebay, "not working, for parts".) With the help of my mostly trusty DSO138 I found the shorted 47/25V dipped tantalum on the -15 supply. Replaced it with a 470/25V aluminum electrolytic, 'cause that's what I had. It now has a beautiful and bright trace. I have ordered what I hope is an original paper manual for the early 7904s. The read outs do not work and all the manuals I have found online are for the later version, s/n B26000 and up. While waiting for USPS is there a downloadable version of the early manual somewhere? Point me to it please. thanks
PD I'm in the market for a 7A19 and a 7A26, any advice welcome.


Re: Intermittent power on problems with 2465B

 

Let's see your stats for Tektronix equipment. I have never seen tants from Tek gear eject into ceiling tiles. I reject any dogma that is uninformed by relevant data.

--
Prof. Thomas H. Lee
Allen Ctr., Rm. 205
350 Jane Stanford Way
Stanford University
Stanford, CA 94305-4070

On 1/5/2021 13:56, David Campbell wrote:
Re. recapping 2465B

Youre on the cusp of learning the *hard way* why advice to
NOT replace caps is extremely bad.

Out of the multiples of semi load after semi load of equipment
I worked on "back in the day" (very high volume consumer electronics
from tube to fine pitch SMT)Ive seen too many electrolytics and some
tantalums go 'knees up'
and leak, explode, literally take off like rockets and stick in a ceiling 8
feet up,
blow confetti across the room, destroy power supplies and even
turn power transformers into smoking piles of tar and iron.

And do circuit board damage...

Only a* FOOL* thinks they can get away with NOT recapping
and I do mean ALL of the caps. Its a crap shoot, a losing gamble
to trust any old cap.

Its a false Meme from the antique radio world that says
"I can get away with not replacing caps/ just testing them"

That Meme is from the world of working on an old AM broadcast or SW
receiver and attempting to keep it as near "stock " as possible.
The adventurous remove old caps and hide new ones inside.
The foolish ignore old caps...

Its EXTREMELY bad practice in anything worth keeping, such as high
end equipment like Tek.

Its a second Fools Errand and false meme to play the "bring it up on a
variac"
or "Ill reform a 50 year old cap." Delusional. The "bring it up on a
variac" meme was
for finding shorts that were hiding in equipment with linear power supplies
where just turning the thing on instantly blew the fuse. It is NOT a valid
or useful procedure for dealing with old caps, no matter how hard the
True Believers want it to be.

Ignore those advising anything but a total recap. *They wont be paying for
the damage their foolish advice causes.*

This is (presumably) high end, near scientific Tek (and other) test
equipent. If its not
worth $100 in caps and a days work, why bother? Just throw it in the
dumpster.

Signed, replaced more leaky, shorted and open caps than " theyll" see in 5
lifetimes...,




Re: Intermittent power on problems with 2465B

David Campbell
 

Re. recapping 2465B

Youre on the cusp of learning the *hard way* why advice to
NOT replace caps is extremely bad.

Out of the multiples of semi load after semi load of equipment
I worked on "back in the day" (very high volume consumer electronics
from tube to fine pitch SMT)Ive seen too many electrolytics and some
tantalums go 'knees up'
and leak, explode, literally take off like rockets and stick in a ceiling 8
feet up,
blow confetti across the room, destroy power supplies and even
turn power transformers into smoking piles of tar and iron.

And do circuit board damage...

Only a* FOOL* thinks they can get away with NOT recapping
and I do mean ALL of the caps. Its a crap shoot, a losing gamble
to trust any old cap.

Its a false Meme from the antique radio world that says
"I can get away with not replacing caps/ just testing them"

That Meme is from the world of working on an old AM broadcast or SW
receiver and attempting to keep it as near "stock " as possible.
The adventurous remove old caps and hide new ones inside.
The foolish ignore old caps...

Its EXTREMELY bad practice in anything worth keeping, such as high
end equipment like Tek.

Its a second Fools Errand and false meme to play the "bring it up on a
variac"
or "Ill reform a 50 year old cap." Delusional. The "bring it up on a
variac" meme was
for finding shorts that were hiding in equipment with linear power supplies
where just turning the thing on instantly blew the fuse. It is NOT a valid
or useful procedure for dealing with old caps, no matter how hard the
True Believers want it to be.

Ignore those advising anything but a total recap. *They wont be paying for
the damage their foolish advice causes.*

This is (presumably) high end, near scientific Tek (and other) test
equipent. If its not
worth $100 in caps and a days work, why bother? Just throw it in the
dumpster.

Signed, replaced more leaky, shorted and open caps than " theyll" see in 5
lifetimes...,


Tek 7904 In Pulse Mode Related to C1511 on LV Regulator

 

Hey Guys,

I'm in the process of (mostly done I think) repairing a 7904 power supply that goes into pulse mode. I replaced a number of the bad tantalums on the cap rectifier board which brought some supplies closer to where they needed to be but but did not keep the supply from going into pulse mode. Continuing to diagnose things I found that pulling C1511 on the LV regulator board solved the problem, however the cap I pulled isn't reading as a short and replacing with a known good causes the pulse mode to return. C1511 seems to be working as a speed up capacitor for the regulator (allowing high frequency transients to bypass R1514 in the ladder) but seems awful high at 0.1 uF for that purpose. I'm considering replacing with a much smaller value ceramic (like 100 pF). Does anyone have any experience/thoughts/suggestions with this? Could my -50V supply have a lot of noise on it from somewhere else that it shouldn't which is causing this cap to be a problem? I'm currently running the supply into a bank of resistive loads so it would have to come from a connection to one of the other supplies if this was the case.

Thanks for the help.
Ricky


Re: Peter Keller's Book Mailing Status (Minor Correction)

 

I don't dispute the issues you are experiencing with mail delivery but it is not like this everywhere.

I mailed the books on Saturday morning. Monday afternoon I received an email from a member that they received Peter's book within my state (Washington). Today (Tuesday) I received another email that their book arrived.

Dennis Tillman W7pF

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Vince Vielhaber
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2021 9:44 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Peter Keller's Book Mailing Status (Minor Correction)

Media mail from my house to anywhere, even 20 miles away, will first go to Pittsburgh, PA. I'm about 40 miles north of Detroit. That said, I've seen Media Mail packages get to the same city before both a priority and first class package around the same weight. (I sell used DVDs and have anywhere between 10 and 30 packages in transit at any given time).

Vince.


On 01/04/2021 12:24 AM, Jack Reynolds wrote:
Hi EJP,

You are probably not missing much by not having the tracking
information. USPS tracking has been virtually useless for months.
Since April or May as I recall one simply sees a couple of steps in the
shipping process and then a departure from the last station Then days
after days of no further reports since it left Podunk or wherever.
Podunk may be only 150 miles away but no new statuses are reported for
days on end. It is more of a frustration than a help.

Jack

On 1/3/2021 9:48 PM, EJP wrote:
Dennis

Rather than create more work for yourself with tracking, why not just
scan the ticket and upload it here so people can find their own
tracking numbers? I always like to have this information anyway, not
just for overdue mail, so I can track it in and know what day it will
arrive.

Just a thought.

EJP







--
K8ZW







--
Dennis Tillman W7pF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: Quick question 564B

 

I have seen tektronix ferrite transformers broken for epoxy stress





-----Mensaje original-----
De: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] En nombre de Chuck Harris
Enviado el: martes, 5 de enero de 2021 4:52
Para: [email protected]
Asunto: Re: [TekScopes] Quick question 564B

It is a pretty well known phenomenon... well discussed on this group over the years... often by me.

Around about the time the 547/545B scopes got designed, tektronix decided to make a universal HV compartment that was plastic, contained the EHT, the 5642 rectifiers, and the capacitors and resistors. The compartment was sealed to help keep dirt, critters, and carbon dust out.

The sealing also prevented good cooling due to air motion.

This required the transformer to run at a higher temperature than was allowed in the earlier 500 series scopes.

The earlier scopes used beeswax to impregnate the transformer windings and tektronix was afraid that the wax would melt in the new sealed compartments (newsflash: it doesn't to any great degree... but I digress.)

Instead of using beeswax to improve the HV breakdown characteristics of the EHT, they used an epoxy varnish to coat the windings.

Because epoxy is rigid, and the tiny wires used in the EHT were easily broken, they added something to the epoxy to soften it, and probably also something to act as a fire retardant.

The epoxy degraded over time, and greatly increased the losses inside of the EHT, making it thermally runaway.

This has been dubbed the transformer epoxy disease.

Some improvement has been witnessed from long baking at high temperatures, but it is only temporary, as the epoxy truly has changed. The only real answer is to replace the winding with new. Beeswax works better than the epoxy as when it gets laden with moisture, it gets hot, melts the beeswax, and releases the water vapor. Once the water vapor is gone, the EHT goes back to its usual warm self.

The 560 series transformers were epoxy varnished, and then potted in an aluminum can using a clear silicon RTV. They still fail at about the same rate as the open core transformers in the 545B/547.

Some have opined that the failure mechanism is due to the fire retardant that was added to the epoxy... if there was a fire retardant added to the epoxy. This opinion comes from a long history of problems that have come from fire retardant additives.

-Chuck Harris

petertech99h via groups.io wrote:

Chuck,
Please tell me more about the 564B HV transformer epoxy disease!

Thanks!
Pete On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 8:07:20 a.m. EST, Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

It is a cute little scope, but very low bandwidth, something like
10MHz.? Its HV transformer suffers from the epoxy disease that affects
547 scopes.

They are quiet, not having a fan, and the plugins contain all the
deflection circuitry (as I recall).

I used to like them quite a lot back in the day, for audio work.

The storage functions are finicky.

-Chuck Harris

Stephen wrote:
Hi all, and Happy New Year 2021,

Is a 564B a good grab, is it desirable at all?
It¡¯s not considered a 500 series, right?
56x family I suppose...

Thanks ?



















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Re: Intermittent power on problems with 2465B

 

To Chuck, perfect advise as always.

A few notes please:

1/ PSU fail to turn on is likely NOT solved by a recap of the PSU. Caps failure are rare but ESR goes up and C down as the electrolyte dries out.
The rectifiers sometimes fail.

2/ Suggest the OP get the excellent PDFs of the manuals for the exact SN range of the unit, and examine the A5, and PSU troubleshoot flow chart.

Sources of complete (FREE) service PDFs:



3/ Removal of the PSU is easy, (note all connector and cable positions and screw lengths!) for troubleshooting, the switcher, startup and regulation need loads to work.

4/ The A5 SMD cap corrosion is terrible, if present the entire board needs cleaning and examination as other parts and traces are affected. See the many threads on this.
The A5 later SN have a Dallas NVRAM to hold CAL constants, with embedded lithium battery that eventually fails. TEST 04 FAIL 05 on self test. You MUST see the threads on A5 NV RAM, replace, socket, reprogram and CAL.
Afterwards a full CAL is highly recommended!

Mark, 2465/7B are GREAT scopes and the LAST CRT scopes TEK ever made. A prefect melding of analog design and digital control.
If well restored and cared for they will serve for decades!

Just the ramblings of an old retired EE!

Bon Chance,

Jon


Re: Quick question 564B

Chuck Harris
 

I don't like to assume anything. When they fail, worry about them.
Some go on forever, it seems.

Any of the transformers that use the brown epoxy are likely to fail
at some point. It doesn't seem to matter if they are just dipped
in a thin coat of epoxy, or molded in a block of epoxy.

Somewhere during the 5000 and 7000 series tek seemed to get the EHT
transformers right. They still did some strange things that caused
failures, but at least the brown epoxy debacle was over.

-Chuck Harris

Brenda via groups.io wrote:

Hello Chuck,

My RM565 does have the aluminum can, but so far, it has been working like a champ so far. I am assuming that this will eventually fail. I do hope that it will hold out.

But both of my 561A's and my 564 have the HV transformer out in the open. Not sealed in a plastic compartment. So, my question is, are these prone to the HV transformer disease as well? Both of my 561A's work very well so far but my 564 is in the project pile for now.

Brenda






Re: Intermittent power on problems with 2465B

Chuck Harris
 

I recommend that you leave the A1 board alone. It is very
difficult to remove without damaging something, and the capacitors
on the A1 board are rarely bad. I would say never bad, but I am
sure someone would argue that point. They don't really do all that
much anyway. The important capacitors on the A1 board are all ceramic
or film type.

I would buy from Mouser or Digi-Key. There are a lot of really
bad counterfeit capacitors being sold as main brands over the internet.

You can trust Mouser and Digi-key (or you can trust no-one).

To simplify life, all of the 250uf 20V and 180uf 40V can be replaced
with one value: 330uf 50V. It is a similar sized capacitor, and
works well. Use United Chemicon, or Panasonic. All of the 100uf caps
can be 50V.

I am reluctant to use capacitors that are drastically smaller
than the originals in size, regardless of their parentage. At an
equal value of capacitance, and ESR, a larger capacitor will stay
cooler, and last much longer.

Generally, a higher voltage capacitor of the same value will have a
lower ESR value, and a higher ripple current capability.

-Chuck Harris

Mark Hatch wrote:

Chuck,

Thanks for the advice! Saw your earlier work on getting the 2018 cap list up dated. Thank you for that work too!

I am going to give the re-cap a try (love the dead fish analogy on those SMD caps!)

Any recommendations on LVPS and A1? I assume I should do both as the caps are the same age. I am sure that you would do both at same time. But as a Tek newbie, I was thinking I would do one, check my work and then go back. Realize there might be some duplicate tear down and re-assembly. Just trying to not juggle too many variables at once.

BTW: are you the 2465b cap reseller on ebay that is located in San Antonio, TX? I can order from digikey, but rather support contributors to the community when possible.

Regards,

Mark






Re: 7613 Mainframe - Readout problem

 

Yes, thank you, thank you, thank you.
I just finished reassembling the 7613 mainframe, after replacing the U214 chip (155-0022-00) on the vertical interface board. The board can be accessed from the front after removing the plug-ins.
The readout is now stable and no longer follows the movement of the track on the CRT. The most difficult thing is to reinsert the vertical interface board on the pins protruding from the rear board.

Thanks again, without Roger's help I'd still be looking for the fault.

--Cheers
Attilio


Re: Quick question 564B

Brenda
 

Hello Chuck,

My RM565 does have the aluminum can, but so far, it has been working like a champ so far. I am assuming that this will eventually fail. I do hope that it will hold out.

But both of my 561A's and my 564 have the HV transformer out in the open. Not sealed in a plastic compartment. So, my question is, are these prone to the HV transformer disease as well? Both of my 561A's work very well so far but my 564 is in the project pile for now.

Brenda