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Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
Philips 74HCT112 in 16 pin DIL package are available from a UK seller on eBay at ?2.99 plus 40p postage, not anyone I have bought from but I don't think I have had any dead or fake parts from UK sellers offering almost immediate delivery (2-3 days). Also in 16 pin DIL from France, six for 10 Euros, Texas Instruments, delivery in a couple of days so shouldn't be direct from China.Roger, saw both of those. Decided to go for 74S112's as per original design. These were NOS and 10 pieces for a fiver and local to me. Interesting that your crystal holds its voltage with a 390¦¸ load resistor across it. I have added a crystal to the shopping list. The total came to about ?30 and included sockets, 74S112, 8085 processor, crystal and some caps. I know there are other faults but I hope it doesn't come to too much more. If this gets the computer running then all well and good. Of course, its not all about money but also the satisfaction of bringing a piece of vintage kit back to life, but I am not sure how much more will be worthwhile spending on it.... Parts will take a few days to arrive so in the meantime I will replace the caps that I can and remove the two 74S112s and clean the holes so the board is ready for the sockets and replacement ICs when they arrive. |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
Philips 74HCT112 in 16 pin DIL package are available from a UK seller on eBay at ?2.99 plus 40p postage, not anyone I have bought from but I don't think I have had any dead or fake parts from UK sellers offering almost immediate delivery (2-3 days). Also in 16 pin DIL from France, six for 10 Euros, Texas Instruments, delivery in a couple of days so shouldn't be direct from China.
I also measured the output of a 50MHz can oscillator in 8 pin outline that I happened to have to hand. About 4.4V pk-pk with a 390R resistor either to ground or to Vcc. I thought the latter was a better match to sinking the TTL input currents. Roger |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
You may want to check the other variants of the "74" class, such as ACT, and ACHT.? Note that the T = TTL compatibility on the inputs, but TTL to CMOS (straight) does not.? 2.4 volts minimum output is not 75% of VCC on the CMOS circuit, so logic 1 is iffy on straight TTL -> CMOS).? So for talking to CMOS (only) circuits, the HC, C, and AHC (etc) parts should be ok.? IF you're putting outputting to a TTL gate, or getting something from a TTL gate (most important) then you want HCT, ACT, etc., as long as the clock frequency is sufficient.
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As for the surface mount stuff, IIRC the pinouts are identical, but the package size is not.? There are companies making surface mount to DIP adaptors that aren't too expensive if you can't design/make your own.? A single sided board is sufficient.? IF you design your own, and send it to a Chinese fab place, then duplicate the pattern and you're likely to have over a hundred for 5 dollars plus shipping. Harvey On 9/21/2020 8:02 PM, Brian Cockburn wrote:
Hi, |
Re: Which programmer to use to read/write dallas DS1486?
On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 11:14 AM, Raymond Domp Frank wrote:
Earlier today, I did as I described above and "programmed" the DS1742W successfully at 3.3 V on a TL866II Plus. Raymond |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
Hi,
When I look at the Nexperia 74HCT112 data sheet I would guess that it will be fast enough. You may have to buy a few and hand select. But, and it's a big but, they look to only be available in surface mount. No DIP part. :-( Going for a 74S112 from a NOS vendor would be the best solution I reckon. And. just in case a reminder is needed. eBay and various Chinese vendors sometimes end up delivering re-marked parts (whether this is deliberate or inadvertent is a discussion for another day), so testing/validating the part on the bench is essential IMHO. You don't want to be installing a re-marked LS part that will fade out as the temperature goes up, if it even managed it at the start. Cheers, Brian. |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
hmmm...
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Looked at the TI datasheet: fmax for the 74HCT112 is typically 60 Mhz. So it is worth trying. I somehow got the price wrong by a few cents, at mouser it is actually 68 cents in single quantities and they still have 788 ea in stock. Ray On 09/21/2020 3:19 PM tgerbic <tgerbic@...> wrote: |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
Chuck Harris
Sounds to me like the crystal oscillator is feeding a
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shorted input. -Chuck Harris John wrote: I managed to remove the crystal without any damage to the board using the SMD heat gun. I tested is as suggested with a 470¦¸ load resistor. The output was around 3.5V and stable for several minutes. Without the load resistor the amplitude was over 4V. Frequency is just a smidgen under 50MHz (49.999xxx) on the FC. I hooked it back up to the board using jump leads, powered up the 5V rail but there was no output. I hooked up the sig gen again and got output from both 74S112s. Could it simply be that the sig gen is handling the sink current better than the crystal? Or does the almost 0.8V voltage drop under load suggest that the output from the oscillator is weak? I'm still uncertain whether to replace both ICs and the crystal for good measure? |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
The 74LS112 spec sheet quotes maximum clock frequencies of 25MHz or 30MHz depending on the loading of the outputs. It is going to be decidedly marginal at 50MHz.Agreed and thank you for pointing that out. I will not be using the "LS" variant as replacements then. However, the 74HCT112 seems to be rated at 66MHz at a Vcc of 5V? The "F" variant looks interesting and plenty available from China, but the 74S112 seems to be the available as genuine NOS parts and perhaps the cheapest option on eBay at present. Digikey and Mouser have both types in stock.True and thanks for pointing that out, but the drawback for us in the UK is that both Mouser and Digikey have a ?12 shipping cost. Not unreasonable given they ship from the USA, but nevertheless dis-proportionally high for a small order under ?30. I managed to remove the crystal without any damage to the board using the SMD heat gun. I tested is as suggested with a 470¦¸ load resistor. The output was around 3.5V and stable for several minutes. Without the load resistor the amplitude was over 4V. Frequency is just a smidgen under 50MHz (49.999xxx) on the FC. I hooked it back up to the board using jump leads, powered up the 5V rail but there was no output. I hooked up the sig gen again and got output from both 74S112s. Could it simply be that the sig gen is handling the sink current better than the crystal? Or does the almost 0.8V voltage drop under load suggest that the output from the oscillator is weak? I'm still uncertain whether to replace both ICs and the crystal for good measure? |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 10:54 AM, ron roetzer wrote:
Makes sense to look at the rated speeds. Tek picked the S type for a reason, and it is clock speed. If the oscillator is replaced, the original part numbers would work as designed, as they did for the last 30+ years. Pick F if you cannot find S. Digikey and Mouser have both types in stock. I did not see them at Allied, RS or Farnell. Yes oscillators often come in 8 or 14 pin footprints, so the pins are referred to by DIP numbering. Regards Tony |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
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Mouser has 788 in stock at 41 cents each.RaySent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE device------ Original message------From: Roger Evans via groups.ioDate: Mon, Sep 21, 2020 12:48To: [email protected];Cc: Subject:Re: [TekScopes] Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?John,
540uF and 390uF sound like 'preferred values' as in resistor values. As far as I know there is no reason for any great precision on the values of reservoir and smoothing capacitors, too small and they don't do the job, too large and they are expensive, take up more space and stress the rectifier diodes on switch on. Quite commonly large value electrolytics will be toleranced at -20% +50%. (or at least they were in my younger days). The 74LS112 spec sheet quotes maximum clock frequencies of 25MHz or 30MHz depending on the loading of the outputs. It is going to be decidedly marginal at 50MHz. Regards, Roger |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
The 74HCT112 is only guaranteed for 24MHz clock. The 74S112 is rated for 80MHz minimum. The 74F112 is rated for 100MHz min.
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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of John Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 11:30 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Is my Tek 468 beyond repair? To test, connect pin 14 to +5, pin-7 to ground and pin 8 is the output. Pin 1 is no connect.tgerbic, ok, I think I get this now. There are only 4 actual pins, but their positions are mapped onto a 14 pin DIL package? So far corners would be 1, 7, 8 and 14 as indicated? You are correct that pin 7 is connected to ground. It isn't very visible but a continuity test confirms it. So there is a very easy albeit brutal sounding way of dealing with removing DIL type chips:I tried the de-soldering gun and solder sucker but this only removed solder from the top of the joint leaving the hole clogged. Similar problem with the IC pins. From one side the hole looked clean but the other side was still firmly soldered in place. Basically there is no chance of removing any DIL device from this board without a specialised DIL de-soldering tool or snipping pins so removal is going to be destructive and any replacement will have to go into a socket. With the crystal, the problem is that there is no access to the pins so the only way I could test was in situ by cutting the output pin track and soldering 3 short wires to the pins in question. Unfortunately this resulted in no output from the crystal. My copy of the manual has U128 and U230 as 74S122 (not LS122), my memory says that most LS devices are rated to around 40MHz which is why I suggested HCT as a possible alternative.Roger is quite correct. The ICs are 74S112. Earlier I had mistakenly stated 74LS112 but I had mis-read the diagram. Using 74HCT112's sounds like a good idea Incidentally, why are the two caps on the 5V rail such specific values? They are marked Sprague 637D 540¦ÌF 25VDC and 672D 390¦ÌF 0-15VDC but no indication of tolerence. I couldn't find any data on these, but would 680¦ÌF and 470¦ÌF 105deg be suitable replacements? I am just putting together an order to RS. Seems to work out cheaper than ordering individual bits from eBay. Also the 74LS112 is considerably cheaper than the 74HCT112 which I can only get on eBay. |
Re: Looking for TM503B manual
Thanks for the info!
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I've seen a couple versions of the TM503 too, even what looked like a TM5003 of sorts with no markings or real part number, it appeared to be a part of a 'pre-built' unit that was never designed to be used with normal TM modules. It may have been the same as the one you played with in your link.. Jared. On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 06:24 AM, Dennis Tillman W7pF wrote:
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Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
John,
540uF and 390uF sound like 'preferred values' as in resistor values. As far as I know there is no reason for any great precision on the values of reservoir and smoothing capacitors, too small and they don't do the job, too large and they are expensive, take up more space and stress the rectifier diodes on switch on. Quite commonly large value electrolytics will be toleranced at -20% +50%. (or at least they were in my younger days). The 74LS112 spec sheet quotes maximum clock frequencies of 25MHz or 30MHz depending on the loading of the outputs. It is going to be decidedly marginal at 50MHz. Regards, Roger |
Re: Is my Tek 468 beyond repair?
To test, connect pin 14 to +5, pin-7 to ground and pin 8 is the output. Pin 1 is no connect.tgerbic, ok, I think I get this now. There are only 4 actual pins, but their positions are mapped onto a 14 pin DIL package? So far corners would be 1, 7, 8 and 14 as indicated? You are correct that pin 7 is connected to ground. It isn't very visible but a continuity test confirms it. So there is a very easy albeit brutal sounding way of dealing with removing DIL type chips:I tried the de-soldering gun and solder sucker but this only removed solder from the top of the joint leaving the hole clogged. Similar problem with the IC pins. From one side the hole looked clean but the other side was still firmly soldered in place. Basically there is no chance of removing any DIL device from this board without a specialised DIL de-soldering tool or snipping pins so removal is going to be destructive and any replacement will have to go into a socket. With the crystal, the problem is that there is no access to the pins so the only way I could test was in situ by cutting the output pin track and soldering 3 short wires to the pins in question. Unfortunately this resulted in no output from the crystal. My copy of the manual has U128 and U230 as 74S122 (not LS122), my memory says that most LS devices are rated to around 40MHz which is why I suggested HCT as a possible alternative.Roger is quite correct. The ICs are 74S112. Earlier I had mistakenly stated 74LS112 but I had mis-read the diagram. Using 74HCT112's sounds like a good idea Incidentally, why are the two caps on the 5V rail such specific values? They are marked Sprague 637D 540¦ÌF 25VDC and 672D 390¦ÌF 0-15VDC but no indication of tolerence. I couldn't find any data on these, but would 680¦ÌF and 470¦ÌF 105deg be suitable replacements? I am just putting together an order to RS. Seems to work out cheaper than ordering individual bits from eBay. Also the 74LS112 is considerably cheaper than the 74HCT112 which I can only get on eBay. |
Re: Please help with TDS340A
Comments Interleaved:
On 9/21/2020 7:04 AM, James wrote: Thanks again Harvey.Pretty much have to be.? The monitor is pretty much a standard VGA monitor (I'd think) and needs the usual assortment of HV section, Horizontal and Vertical drivers (for the yoke), and a video driver. Following on I have a couple of further dumb questions:That would be right.? Make sure that you are pulling only on the socket, and not the pin holder/base of the tube as well.? I'd be tempted to try to very gently rock it back and forth in case the pins are somehow stuck.? It should be keyed, either by a keyway in the plastic base or, if like a 7 or 9 pin valve, pin spacing Any advice/tips on doing this?I'd? do a little probing of the power inputs with another scope (I think you said you had one) to look for that 30 KHz waveform. That might tell you which to replace.? Alternatively, you can (assuming it's a 15 volt line), tack a 100 to 1000 uf 25 volt capacitor across that at the input to the monitor and see what that does or doesn't do. Another possibility is that if there's a shield around the HV (that's HT for you) transformer, then see if the screws are tight. Do I need particular spec capacitors or am I likely to be ok if replacing 105C +50-20% types with others that meet this spec (and obviously the same or higher working voltage)?I suspect that they're all standard aluminum electrolytics, since this is mostly consumer level off-the-shelf electronics in the display.? I'd go for 105 degree C capacitors (typically you'd be getting 85 or 105, 105 lasts longer at higher temperatures, and even at lower ones), working voltage equal to or up to 50% more (that's arbitrary, but a slightly larger working voltage is better).? Do not use a 15 volt or 16 volt rated capacitor on a 15 volt line, just not enough headroom. and for the actual value, most electrolytics are about -20% + 100% in tolerance, so putting a 150 uf capacitor in place of a 100 uf capacitor should be fine.? If you think it's part of a signal chain, as in a filter for a particular frequency, or something doing timing, then go for the same value. Many thanks as ever in advance.Not a problem.? Check out some of the other repair threads some time to see some general "what do I put in its place?" advice. Not sure if anyone ever collected this and put it somewhere. Harvey |
Re: 2235 Repair having no power
I don't have a 2235 manual on hand but this sounds very similar to my case with the T948 main inverter transformer (120-1348-03) used in the 2213A that had failed, in my case on a scope I fixed about 10 years ago. Once I replaced that transformer with one taken from a scrap board, everything came back to life. So these sometimes do indeed fail, although apparently not very often. I never did any testing to the failed one, so no idea what really went wrong. Wish I could offer more insight but that's it for now.
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