开云体育

Thanks, Egge.

It's been over 3 years since I messed with the benchtop controller, so I don't recall the P/N I used to replace the original module. I'm not a fan of Dallas Semiconductor or Maxim Integrated who bought them, so I probably put in an STMicroelectronics part instead. I do recall that the original module had the battery and crystal included but the modern equivalent just had the memory only.

I will take a look on my board shortly. I'm more motivated these days because a buddy is moving and is giving me a PCMCIA to GPIB adaptor, which would allow me to connect the TLA to GPIB. I'm just getting started connecting my other test gear to my garage lab PC through GPIB, so it would be handy to have the TLA on the bus as well. Probably this weekend I'll look into it.

Jim

Although a slightly off topic subject nothing better to ask a scope group this question.

In the process of mentoring a young individual with regards to basic electronics I dug out an old Heathkit oscilloscope form my junk pile and decided to fix up for him so that he would begin to learn a little more about analog signals. But After firing it up I discovered that the CRT emission is weak and that the scope traces take a little concentration to see.

This particular scope uses a 5DEP1(F) CRT. I my search for a replacement I learned that the are a few used CRTs available which also sport a (S) suffix on their part number. The few data sheets that were found do not allude to the differences between the (F) and (S) suffix tubes. I am making a basic assumption that this refers to the face of the tube being either flat or spherical shape respectively.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Greg

If you don't have any spare antennas, and the neighbors' cars don't have any either, then a good hobby shop has brass and aluminum stock, perhaps steel as well, of various fractional inch sizes.

Harvey

If you have any junk telescopic antennas around, they are a handy source of assorted hard brass tubing sizes. Look for a section about the right diameter, and cut a piece and file an end square. I've always managed to find a piece the right size for any connector pin removal. It's good to also wind up a handle at the cold end out of many layers of tape, to get enough axial force and torque without gouging your hand.

I also use them to make rotary punches for making holes in thin, soft materials, by putting a cutting edge on the tip - just spin a drill bit (larger than the tube OD) in the end until the outer edge is nice and sharp. To punch a hole just push and twist it through. It can also be chucked in a drill. These wear out fast, so need to be resharpened as needed. They can make nice clean holes, especially in rubbery type materials, much better than a drill bit.

Ed

Gary Robert Bosworth and Dave Brown and anyone else interested in a copy of the 4041 System Verification tape,

send me an email: mmcgraw74@...

Monty McGraw

It all becomes easier if you first push the wire
in the direction of insertion.

I have successfully made removal tools using tin snips,
a tin can, pliers, and a nail around which to roll the
tin can material.

Form a tube that is the same size as the plastic shell's
opening, insert the tube, at the same time push the wire
towards the tube. When the tube passes the connector's
retaining fingers, pull the wire out of the shell.

-Chuck Harris

aldue wrote:

Hi Jim, I sent photos but, attachments are disallowed. Most are made by
AMP. You may find them at Newark Electronics. The look a bit like a syringe
with a tube instead of a needle.
They punch pins out of plastic blocks. If this is similar to your Tektronix
connector, try to measure the diameter of the holes molded into the
plastic blocks. Send me the data and I shall check for the correct tool.
Ebay has the cheap tool kits but, I haven't been able to make them work.,
aldue = Gary

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 12:53 AM, Egge Siert wrote:

In my experience it is nearly impossible to damage through-hole connections in
Multi-Layer Boards.

Hi Egge, Hi All:
Trust me, with a Mr. Carlson Weller soldering gun special, and a Hexagon 100Wer... people do it to Tek stuff, all the time.
Best regards and wishes.
Roy

Hi Jim, I have some pin removal tools that work on various Molex style
connectors. They amount to a thin tube that slides over the pin which
disengages the exterior spurs plus, a piston plunger to eject the pin.
The pin diameter needs to be near the tools size.
I shall send a photo in a few minutes. They require more muscle than you
expect however, they work neatly with a bit of persistence. Wish you
success with the project, Gary

Hello. I am new to this group, but am very interested in the discussions. As a hobby, I have restored some Tek 465 and 475 scopes. My latest 475A has a bad low voltage transformer. It plows the main fuse even when all of the secondary windings are disconnected. To replace it, I need a pin removal tool (Tek 003-0707-00), but have been unable to locate one. I would appreciate any suggestions where I can acquire one. Thanks.

Hi all,

I would like to purchase the power cords for a TEK 321A O-Scope. Both would be nice but just the AC or DC cord will help.
Please let me know if you have something and how much you want including shipping to zip 12302.

Thanks,

Al

Hi Jim.

Some months ago I bought (out of curiosity) a "working" TLA704 with an overdue DS12887 (OS not found). Mouser still has this device and after replacing the old one new settings can be saved and the TLA704 is now working flawlessly. Based on its (DS12887) Diagram and Pin-Out it seems not a hard one to reconstruct the missing traces. In my experience it is nearly impossible to damage through-hole connections in Multi-Layer Boards. I suggest to put back a new DS12887 (this time with DIL-Socket).

(for another solution)

Succes,

Egge Siert

I successfully created a copy of the System Verification tape and tested it on my 4041 without the ROM Carrier and Program Development ROMs installed!

Quite an effort - I received the 15 DC100A NOS tapes Sunday and spent the rest of the day trying to record on one of them - unsuccessfully. The belt was not broken when I took off the shrink wrap - but it broke immediately when I pressed the AUTO LOAD button on the front panel.

I replaced the belt with one of the 4 1/4" Plastibands and tried multiple times to format the tape but kept getting errors. The band kept popping off and the tape head was getting clogged with 'tape shed' and the two guide posts collected 'tape shed' and the tape would stick.

An internet search turned up a youtube video from Curious Marc that itemized several different issues with trying to recover the data from old DC100 tapes in an HP computer - I was seeing most of those issues with these NOS tapes. I believe these five tapes are from 1993, a second box 1992 and the third box from 1991 - based on the publishing date on one of the papers inside the case with each tape.

The solution recommended in the video was to 'bake' the tapes at 135 degrees F in a dehydrator.

I went looking for tape 'baking' instructions, and said his best results were from baking for two days.

I opened up the other four tapes, removed the plastic belt rollers, the capstan and taped the two drive reels together as recommended with the tape directly between the two reels.

I have an Excalibur dehydrator and set the control to 135F. I put all five NOS tapes in the dehydrator, numbering each on the 'invisible tape'. I measured the temp of the tapes multiple times during the two days with an infrared temp sensor - got within one degree of 135F every measurement.

Instructions indicated letting the cartridges cool for an hour - I waited longer than that.

First I tried reassembling tape #1 that I was unable to use on Sunday - with a fresh Plastiband belt. The 4041 kept indicating an Invalid Tape error. Possibly from previous recording attempts.

I then put tape #1 aside and picked tape #2, fresh band, plugged it in and got CRC error when I pressed AUTO Load. I was able to format the tape and began writing one file at a time to the tape, checking the directory list after each operation. I had to replace the belt a couple of times, and retension a couple of times, but got all the files written.

Here is the resulting directory list of my first System Verification Tape copy. Notice that I didn't put a tape name in the FORMAT command, and didn't SET TIME until several files were recorded.

My process steps were not quite correct - here is a new sequence, after you have bootstrapped the console to COMM: (COMM0: if you have two serial ports)

1 - SET TIME 2 - Format the tape, recommend adding the parameter to name the tape 3 - Select an ASCII file to SEND with Realterm 4 - Start the transfer - you will see the lines of the program on the Realterm window 5 - Select the Realterm console window in order to type commands to the 4041 6 - SAVE "filename(OPE=NEW,CLI=YES,FOR=ITEM)" 7 - If you don't get an error, type DIR and check that 'filename' is at the end of the DIR and the correct type (IT) and filesize. If error, DELETE FILE "filename" and do STEP 6 8 - LOAD "COMM:" then press front panel "ABORT" button. This clears the previous program in memory. 9 - now repeat starting with STEP 3 until done

Here is my tape copy long directory list. Only file that didn't match length with original is the last file TSCSI.ASC. I actually I wrote both the TDIR and CONFIG files in 2000 - note the file dates are the 4041 default of 1981 if the SET TIME command is not run.

From the timestamps - it took me three hours to write the files to the tape.

       01-JAN-81 00:15:50  SOFT ERRORS = 21       

FILE FILE LENGTH START NUMBER LAST
NAME TYPE IN BYTES RECORD OF REC. MODIFICATION DATE

---

AUTOLD IT 2550 5 10 01-JAN-81 00:28:00 TERMIN IT 8160 15 32 01-JAN-81 00:40:00 SYSVER IT 3570 47 14 01-JAN-81 00:44:00 CONFIG AS 1020 61 4 01-JAN-81 00:50:00 PROCED IT 1020 65 4 01-JAN-81 00:59:00 LINK IT 765 69 3 01-JAN-81 01:01:00 DISP IT 1275 72 5 03-JUN-20 19:33:00 KEYPAD IT 1530 77 6 03-JUN-20 19:37:00 PRINTE IT 765 83 3 03-JUN-20 19:41:00 TAPE IT 4590 86 18 03-JUN-20 19:43:00 SOFTER IT 765 104 3 03-JUN-20 19:45:00 IO IT 4590 107 18 03-JUN-20 19:48:00 TIMER IT 1530 125 6 03-JUN-20 19:49:00 PDKYBD IT 4335 131 17 03-JUN-20 20:01:00 GPIB IT 2040 148 8 03-JUN-20 20:10:00 GPIBLB IT 3315 156 13 03-JUN-20 20:12:00 GPIBCO IT 2040 169 8 03-JUN-20 20:13:00 SLAVE IT 3315 177 13 03-JUN-20 20:15:00 MASTER IT 1785 190 7 03-JUN-20 20:17:00 PAU IT 765 197 3 03-JUN-20 20:21:00 TPCAL IT 1275 200 5 03-JUN-20 20:23:00 PTRCAL IT 1020 205 4 03-JUN-20 20:25:00 FRMAT IT 1020 209 4 03-JUN-20 20:27:00 TSTPTN IT 2040 213 8 03-JUN-20 20:37:00 CHKOPT IT 1275 221 5 03-JUN-20 20:39:00 OPT2 IT 765 226 3 03-JUN-20 20:56:00 HELP IT 3060 229 12 03-JUN-20 21:00:00 PDTEST IT 255 241 1 03-JUN-20 21:05:00 SCSI IT 2550 242 10 03-JUN-20 21:07:00 TSYSVR AS 4080 252 16 03-JUN-20 21:09:00 TSCSI AS 4590 268 18 03-JUN-20 21:19:00 98685
*

Greetings fellow trekkies:
I have been informed that my email address, that I included in my note of June 1st, had the email address truncated after the at (the shift 2 symbol).? Please note the following correct address:
reed714(now put in the shift 2 at symbol)sbcglobal(now enter a period)net.? If this does not work please give me a call at 714 838 6241, preferably in the afternoon.

Hi Sean,

There are four indents punched into the bottom end of the aluminum can, punching into the plastic base and thus holding it in place. If you take a small drill bit or burring tool, you can carefully twist out the aluminum indents and then easily pry off the base, revealing the insides. After replacing the bulb, you can just reinsert the base with a drop of glue.

Regards,
Melvin

To anyone interested in this subject,

Here is the THINGIVERSE Link to a blank front panel for the basic TM500 Plug in.



This should be able to be modified for almost any specific application.

I am going to print one and see how it turns out. I will update with the results.

Sincerely,

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, Arkansas

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 10:48 PM M Yachad <yachadm@...> wrote:

Reed

Please write your email using the AT format. The program truncated your full address after the @.

We've been over this many times. groups.io censors email addresses so
they can't be scraped by spammers. This is the same as what Yahoo
Groups did. The only way around it is to spell out the address so it
doesn't look like an address.

However, you can ALWAYS reply privately from the groups.io web site.
There is no excuse for spamming the list with private messages.

It was ok on my computer. I wonder why that should happen? Perhaps Dennis has some idea?
Colin.

Hi:
I have no idea how that happened.? Here it is again:
reed714@...
phone, after noon only714 838 6241

Steve,

You are right! I just did another search and it came up.

Michael Lynch

From My I-Phone

mlynch003@...

479-477-1115

--
Michael Lynch
Dardanelle, Arkansas