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Because the plastic has shrunk, you need to increase
the space for the center hub. The easiest way I have
found is to assemble the parts as well as you can, and
then wrap some rubber bands around the knob to provide
tension.

Then take a soldering iron, and heat the center hub.

The instant the plastic relaxes, remove the heat, and
cool the hub by blowing on it.

After all is done, a drop of acrylic solvent glue will,
seal the deal, so to speak.

-Chuck Harris

Dave Voorhis wrote:

I just acquired a Telequipment (British subsidiary of Tek in the

60’s/70’s) CT71 curve tracer in excellent working condition and good
cosmetic shape, but for a cracked knob. Like the usual Tek knobs, it’s a
plastic shell around a linear-knurled metal core. The plastic appears to
have shrunk slightly, causing it to crack and no longer grip the core.

If I recall correctly, someone posted tips on this forum on how to

permanently repair such shrink-cracked knobs, but my search-fu must be
broken today because I can’t find the relevant posts.

Can anyone can give me a quick recap and/or point me to the posts on

groups.io <>?

I just acquired a Telequipment (British subsidiary of Tek in the 60’s/70’s) CT71 curve tracer in excellent working condition and good cosmetic shape, but for a cracked knob. Like the usual Tek knobs, it’s a plastic shell around a linear-knurled metal core. The plastic appears to have shrunk slightly, causing it to crack and no longer grip the core.

If I recall correctly, someone posted tips on this forum on how to permanently repair such shrink-cracked knobs, but my search-fu must be broken today because I can’t find the relevant posts.

Can anyone can give me a quick recap and/or point me to the posts on groups.io <>?

Hello All,

I am just catching up on this thread.

There is a youtube video on replacing the CCFLs with LEDs here

The part number for the TDS3000 (no letter) display is listed in the service manual as an NEC NL6448AC20–06.? These displays are available on ebay and other places for about $60US. ? I think the part number for the B model is NL6448BC20-08, but I am not 100% sure of that.? These displays are running about $80-$100US. The only difference I can find in the in the datasheets between NL6448AC20–06 and the NL6448BC20-08 is that the -08 model has higher luminance.

Can anyone verify the part number on the TDS3000B display?

I will check for the for the signals that Harvey mentioned when I have time.? The pins that go to the display are really hard to get to because of the way this thing is built.?? There are the test points on the main board, but the service manual makes no mention of what they are for.

Tom Bryan
N3AJA


On 11/6/2019 10:58 AM, Harvey White wrote:

This is the first item that came up when searching for CCFL LED replacements

;!b9GWhakWANQ!1VZO1N_UzGPrK5tvZk-sSIE3W2ulp1zapXqXmDScqYhd9jWmbO6SGjvZhNdA$
no idea if they have anything that will fit.

I have made CCFL replacement strips for some odd displays, the older Optrex DSTN color displays and the FG0800 8 inch VGA display.

Due to the lack of 12 volts in a battery operated project, all of them are designed to run the LEDS in parallel, at about 15 ma per led, about 9 per 4 inch strip.? The strips are designed to be stacked, resulting in parallel operation.

Whether or not the lamps can be reasonably replaced depends on the manufacturer.? In the Optrex displays, remove a screw, swing a shield aside, and pull out the tube.? In the FG0800, it's more involved (and takes 4 strips), even more if you wanted the side. The silly tube is a top, left, and bottom assembly.

The replacement should be made to run off the (suspect 12 volts) supply, and a simple PWM would easily replace the inverter.? I'm sure it varies wildly.

I know there's a market out there, and the more common the display, perhaps the easier it is to find the LED replacement, or even the tube itself (which I'd recommend unless you want to go LED).

I went LED because the power consumption in battery operated equipment goes down by 50 to 75%, and I'm not happy with 1600 volts running around an experimental setup.

So give these people a try, they seem to be going laptop, so no idea what else they do.


You might also want to look here:

;!b9GWhakWANQ!1VZO1N_UzGPrK5tvZk-sSIE3W2ulp1zapXqXmDScqYhd9jWmbO6SGtNxwsuf$
10 dollars.

Harvey


On 11/6/2019 10:03 AM, David Kuhn wrote:

" there are commercially
available LED backlight kits to replace the CCFL lamps.? "

I would be in your dept if you could point me to an LED replacement for the
fluorescent tubes in the NEC displays like that are used in the TDS3000
series (no bloody A, No bloody B or C).? I'll get the actual NEC LCD part
number and reply again later.? I wonder if the LED replacement is made to
run off the fluorescent tube inverter supply?? I ask that because that
supply has software control line to control the brightness. LET is
probably off or on, unless it is designed to run off the inverter or a
software equivalent inverter is available (retrofitting old equipment not
designing new stuff).

dave

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:31 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

On 11/5/2019 1:59 PM, David Kuhn wrote:

Sorry for the response delay.

I am in Lewistown, PA.? How cheap are the displays and where are you
finding them?? I have found the ones, used in the Ultrasonic instruments

I

mentioned, on Alliexpress, and EBAY (haven't ordered any from either

one),

but I can not find the backlight tubes, which I find is usually the

problem

with the displays.? The displays may be just slightly different than in

the

TDS3032, but if so, only mechanically.? The connectors are the same, and

I

really think the part numbers are the same.? It's not a real easy
replacement in those TDS scopes.? It looks easy, but it's a pain in the
butt.

Depending on the manufacturer of the display, there are commercially
available LED backlight kits to replace the CCFL lamps.

You may want to buy the TDS3GV on EBAY.? I can't use a TDS3032 without

one,

but I have written a lot of service software in VBA and VB6 that
automatically sets up the scopes and gets data from them. I can also
project my TDS3032 to the 32" TV mounted on the wall above it (an older
Sceptre with VGA input) and that's pretty cool.

Again, if the cables are seated well, I doubt the LCD is bad with an
all-white display.? My thoughts are a main PCB issue. A TSD3GV could

prove

me wrong.

If you find an all white display, then depending on the type of display
(positive or negative) you'd suspect no signals to it, or improper signals.

The display is likely to take either 5 or 3.3 volts, recent ones that I
have take 3.3.? Older STN displays can take 5.? The white is the result
of the backlight working, but no active pixels at all (hence no
polarization, etc....).

Like a CRT display, you'll be looking for a horizontal sync (at perhaps
30 Khz), vertical sync (say 60 or so Hz), a DE (likely at horizontal
rate and active high), and a pixel clock at about 25 or so Mhz.? You'd
also expect supply voltages to be somewhere on the display. If the
timing is right and the voltages are there, then the display ought to be
showing something.? If not, then look at the other pins, they should be
R,G,B digital signals, either in 565 (for a 16 bit panel) or 666 (for an
18 bit panel).? If there's any activity on them, then with the right
sync signals, they ought to be giving something on the display.

Harvey

Dave

On Tue, Oct 29, 2019 at 10:55 PM Tom B <tbryan@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

I? tried the "B Trig" and nothing happened.? Displays are fairly cheap
but I don't want to buy one unless I have to.

Thank you for the offer.? I would be a long while before I make it up
that way.

What town are you in?

Tom

On 10/29/2019 4:52 PM, David Kuhn wrote:

I'm in central, PA, about 3 hours from you if you ever want to come up

and

try it here with one of my VGA/GPIB modules.

Before that.? Power it up while holding in the "B TRIG" button (might

be

different on the TDS3014), which on my TDS3032's causes a RESET.? I've

had

that fix display issues after replacing the battery NVRAM in in the

scope.

The display in the TDS3032, is the exact same LCD used in the GEIT

Phasor

XS and USN60 instruments.? I have worked on many.? I have never seen

the

LCD fail on those instrument where it's all white.? Typical, if not

broken,

is smeary displays that lines seems to go out of sync.? Dim, of course

with

broken backlight tubes.

Dave

On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 10:50 PM Tom B <tbryan@...> wrote:

Hi Rich (?),

Thanks. I am located in Maryland near Washington DC.

If anyone in the Washington DC area has a TDS3GV that I could come

over

and quickly test my scope with, I would appreciate it.

Tom Bryan
N3AJA


On 10/28/2019 10:29 AM, Oz-in-DFW wrote:

I'd still remove and reseat both ends.

Where are you in the world?? I have a VGA/serial/GPIB card in my 3014

that we might be able to mate with your scope briefly.

Hello all,
I am looking for someone in the Reedsburg, WI area that would like to take a road trip out West come this spring. Say sometime in late May or early June. If you are interested please let me know. Non-smoker only.
GOD Bless and Thanks,

Richard R. Pope
1230 19th Street #5
Reedsburg, WI 53959, USA
1-608-768-7448
mechanic_2@...

This is the first item that came up when searching for CCFL LED replacements

;!b9GWhakWANQ!1VZO1N_UzGPrK5tvZk-sSIE3W2ulp1zapXqXmDScqYhd9jWmbO6SGjvZhNdA$
no idea if they have anything that will fit.

I have made CCFL replacement strips for some odd displays, the older Optrex DSTN color displays and the FG0800 8 inch VGA display.

Due to the lack of 12 volts in a battery operated project, all of them are designed to run the LEDS in parallel, at about 15 ma per led, about 9 per 4 inch strip.? The strips are designed to be stacked, resulting in parallel operation.

Whether or not the lamps can be reasonably replaced depends on the manufacturer.? In the Optrex displays, remove a screw, swing a shield aside, and pull out the tube.? In the FG0800, it's more involved (and takes 4 strips), even more if you wanted the side. The silly tube is a top, left, and bottom assembly.

The replacement should be made to run off the (suspect 12 volts) supply, and a simple PWM would easily replace the inverter.? I'm sure it varies wildly.

I know there's a market out there, and the more common the display, perhaps the easier it is to find the LED replacement,? or even the tube itself (which I'd recommend unless you want to go LED).

I went LED because the power consumption in battery operated equipment goes down by 50 to 75%, and I'm not happy with 1600 volts running around an experimental setup.

So give these people a try, they seem to be going laptop, so no idea what else they do.


You might also want to look here:

;!b9GWhakWANQ!1VZO1N_UzGPrK5tvZk-sSIE3W2ulp1zapXqXmDScqYhd9jWmbO6SGtNxwsuf$
10 dollars.

Harvey


On 11/6/2019 10:03 AM, David Kuhn wrote:

" there are commercially
available LED backlight kits to replace the CCFL lamps.? "

I would be in your dept if you could point me to an LED replacement for the
fluorescent tubes in the NEC displays like that are used in the TDS3000
series (no bloody A, No bloody B or C).? I'll get the actual NEC LCD part
number and reply again later.? I wonder if the LED replacement is made to
run off the fluorescent tube inverter supply?? I ask that because that
supply has software control line to control the brightness.? LET is
probably off or on, unless it is designed to run off the inverter or a
software equivalent inverter is available (retrofitting old equipment not
designing new stuff).

dave

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 2:31 PM Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:

On 11/5/2019 1:59 PM, David Kuhn wrote:

Sorry for the response delay.

I am in Lewistown, PA.? How cheap are the displays and where are you
finding them?? I have found the ones, used in the Ultrasonic instruments

I

mentioned, on Alliexpress, and EBAY (haven't ordered any from either

one),

but I can not find the backlight tubes, which I find is usually the

problem

with the displays.? The displays may be just slightly different than in

the

TDS3032, but if so, only mechanically.? The connectors are the same, and

I

really think the part numbers are the same.? It's not a real easy
replacement in those TDS scopes.? It looks easy, but it's a pain in the
butt.

Depending on the manufacturer of the display, there are commercially
available LED backlight kits to replace the CCFL lamps.

You may want to buy the TDS3GV on EBAY.? I can't use a TDS3032 without

one,

but I have written a lot of service software in VBA and VB6 that
automatically sets up the scopes and gets data from them.? I can also
project my TDS3032 to the 32" TV mounted on the wall above it (an older
Sceptre with VGA input) and that's pretty cool.

Again, if the cables are seated well, I doubt the LCD is bad with an
all-white display.? My thoughts are a main PCB issue. A TSD3GV could

prove

me wrong.

If you find an all white display, then depending on the type of display
(positive or negative) you'd suspect no signals to it, or improper signals.

The display is likely to take either 5 or 3.3 volts, recent ones that I
have take 3.3.? Older STN displays can take 5.? The white is the result
of the backlight working, but no active pixels at all (hence no
polarization, etc....).

Like a CRT display, you'll be looking for a horizontal sync (at perhaps
30 Khz), vertical sync (say 60 or so Hz), a DE (likely at horizontal
rate and active high), and a pixel clock at about 25 or so Mhz.? You'd
also expect supply voltages to be somewhere on the display. If the
timing is right and the voltages are there, then the display ought to be
showing something.? If not, then look at the other pins, they should be
R,G,B digital signals, either in 565 (for a 16 bit panel) or 666 (for an
18 bit panel).? If there's any activity on them, then with the right
sync signals, they ought to be giving something on the display.

Harvey

Dave

On Tue, Oct 29, 2019 at 10:55 PM Tom B <tbryan@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

I? tried the "B Trig" and nothing happened.? Displays are fairly cheap
but I don't want to buy one unless I have to.

Thank you for the offer.? I would be a long while before I make it up
that way.

What town are you in?

Tom

On 10/29/2019 4:52 PM, David Kuhn wrote:

I'm in central, PA, about 3 hours from you if you ever want to come up

and

try it here with one of my VGA/GPIB modules.

Before that.? Power it up while holding in the "B TRIG" button (might

be

different on the TDS3014), which on my TDS3032's causes a RESET.? I've

had

that fix display issues after replacing the battery NVRAM in in the

scope.

The display in the TDS3032, is the exact same LCD used in the GEIT

Phasor

XS and USN60 instruments.? I have worked on many.? I have never seen

the

LCD fail on those instrument where it's all white.? Typical, if not

broken,

is smeary displays that lines seems to go out of sync.? Dim, of course

with

broken backlight tubes.

Dave

On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 10:50 PM Tom B <tbryan@...> wrote:

Hi Rich (?),

Thanks. I am located in Maryland near Washington DC.

If anyone in the Washington DC area has a TDS3GV that I could come

over

and quickly test my scope with, I would appreciate it.

Tom Bryan
N3AJA


On 10/28/2019 10:29 AM, Oz-in-DFW wrote:

I'd still remove and reseat both ends.

Where are you in the world?? I have a VGA/serial/GPIB card in my 3014

that we might be able to mate with your scope briefly.

Craig: Since the beginning of the broo-haha I have a voided commenting.
However the more I think about it the more I want to chime in. I know you
have contributed a lot over the years. I don’t know that the dog pilers
have. But that is irrelevant. Everyone deserves to say what they think on a
forum like this. If someone doesn’t like it, they are welcome to express
their view. Everyone should be cut a lot of slack when it comes to
criticism. We avoid politics, religion and such topics beyond reason. But I
hope no one is made to feel unwelcome. So in my opinion I would ask you to
stay. Please remember that those posts do not represent the hundreds of
other members. Tektronix instruments are becoming a thing of the past. We
need everyone to help keep them alive including you. God bless.

Well, to each his own.? Keeps things interesting! ;)JimSent from my Verizon,
Samsung Galaxy smartphone