开云体育

@ Dave - here is the channel link -

--
/Rajesh

On Sat, 17 Nov 2018 11:52:21 -0500, you wrote:

Thanks, I'll give it a try, standard PLA and we'll see what the
settings may do.

I have a modeled (and working) design for the TM5000 latches and pull
tab.

Harvey

On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 9:19 AM Siggi <siggi@...> wrote:

Hey Rick,

I 3D modeled the two parts for these latches and did a couple of test 3D
prints. The models are fine, I think, but the printers and materials I have
access to don't make useful parts at this scale. The dimensions are off and
the strength isn't up to snuff. This may simply be due to my overabundance
of thumbs when it comes to 3D printing - I may not have sufficient
tolerance for fiddling with the print settings :/.
I uploaded the models to ShapeWays, which will do dimensionally accurate
prints with excellent strength, though I haven't tried printing them yet.
The PCB bracket I modeled for FG504 <

has held up well, and I know others have bought prints.

I can send you my models if you'd like to try printing some yourself, or I
could make the Shapeways models available for general use. Shapeways
per-part price comes to $1.63 and $1.73 per lock button and swivel piece or
$3.63 for the pair. I'd guess by modelling e.g. 5 pairs of pieces in a
single model the per-item price might come down a bit.

I got a query about these, so I finally got off my derriere and made the

models public on ShapeWays:




ShapeWays wants $5 a piece, which seems pretty dear. I wonder if modeling
sets of these strung on a runner would make them less expensive each. I
believe the originals were independently injection molded, and printing
these on a runner would leave a blemish where the runner had to be cut off.
Also note that I've never printed these, so YMMV.

If you want to play with the model, then here's a Fusion 360 link:
. This is converted from the original FreeCad model,
which means the construction details of the bodies has been lost. Wonders
of file formats...

Siggi

On Sat, 17 Nov 2018 01:24:45 -0500, you wrote:

“

Thanks I am interested in that. Do you know about how much Labview would
cost to get started?”

Look at HP's Benchview, it was free the last time I looked and you may
be able to define instruments.

Harvey

I just looked in to Labview tonight. $3000! Wow, I know it’s a great tool,
and probably easier, and more versatile, to program in than VBA, or VB6,
but $3000? I’ll stick with manually writing my own test software VBA ( I
actually prefer it, because databasing collected data is a natural with
Access/VBA). Screw. Shots through a utility like OpenChoice Desktop and
GPIB is quite good. You grab a screen shot and paste it in to your
Calibration document in Word. OpenChoice. I do love my TDS3032s for that.
They are getting old too.

Dave

On Thu, Jan 11, 2018 at 9:19 AM Siggi <siggi@...> wrote:

Hey Rick,

I 3D modeled the two parts for these latches and did a couple of test 3D
prints. The models are fine, I think, but the printers and materials I have
access to don't make useful parts at this scale. The dimensions are off and
the strength isn't up to snuff. This may simply be due to my overabundance
of thumbs when it comes to 3D printing - I may not have sufficient
tolerance for fiddling with the print settings :/.
I uploaded the models to ShapeWays, which will do dimensionally accurate
prints with excellent strength, though I haven't tried printing them yet.
The PCB bracket I modeled for FG504 <

has held up well, and I know others have bought prints.

I can send you my models if you'd like to try printing some yourself, or I
could make the Shapeways models available for general use. Shapeways
per-part price comes to $1.63 and $1.73 per lock button and swivel piece or
$3.63 for the pair. I'd guess by modelling e.g. 5 pairs of pieces in a
single model the per-item price might come down a bit.

I got a query about these, so I finally got off my derriere and made the

models public on ShapeWays:




ShapeWays wants $5 a piece, which seems pretty dear. I wonder if modeling
sets of these strung on a runner would make them less expensive each. I
believe the originals were independently injection molded, and printing
these on a runner would leave a blemish where the runner had to be cut off.
Also note that I've never printed these, so YMMV.

If you want to play with the model, then here's a Fusion 360 link:
. This is converted from the original FreeCad model,
which means the construction details of the bodies has been lost. Wonders
of file formats...

Siggi

What is your channel?

--
Dave
Manuals@...
www.ArtekManuals.com

On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 08:11 PM, Rajesh VS wrote:

I am afraid that it is my channel & video.

Well I liked it. Good job!

--I haven't checked but I am assuming the 7834 reduced scan is the same as the 7934. It works by doubling the cathode voltage on the CRT so that the deflection sensitivity in X and are each reduced by a factor of two. In normal scan you would have had a substantial overscan that you can confirm with the horizontal position control on the timebase. I don't --suppose your timebase is in X10 expansion is it?

--Roger

Hi Roger,

thank you for your advice the relay K2014 was not switching, bad solder joint.

Best regards,

Fred S.

I'd say the thermal trip would be the most likely candidate (statistically-speaking!)
John

Yeah, Labview is easy to get a project started but not so easy to support.? We have a ton of Labview code at work, and it's a nightmare to change anything.? Trying to use Matlab from now on.Probably I will try Python to control my instruments in my garage lab at some point.Good luck!Jim FSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

“

Thanks I am interested in that. Do you know about how much Labview would
cost to get started?”

I just looked in to Labview tonight. $3000! Wow, I know it’s a great tool,
and probably easier, and more versatile, to program in than VBA, or VB6,
but $3000? I’ll stick with manually writing my own test software VBA ( I
actually prefer it, because databasing collected data is a natural with
Access/VBA). Screw. Shots through a utility like OpenChoice Desktop and
GPIB is quite good. You grab a screen shot and paste it in to your
Calibration document in Word. OpenChoice. I do love my TDS3032s for that.
They are getting old too.

Dave

“Do you actually have a 2430, or is it a 2430A? For a 2430A, you can
request an HP/GL screenshot by ”

I’m not in the shop right now, but I’m fairly certain it’s not an “A”.

I’m probably going to private sell this or eBay it. It works pretty good,
but I don’t have time anymore to hobby a scope. I would have loved this
scope 20 years ago. If anyone is interested PM me an offer. It would cost
$30 to have it double-boxed and then whatever the UPS or FedEx ground rate
is. It’s heavy do I would guess ~$50 shipping. With $80 shipping, no one is
going to want to pay. If you what you can get from Siglent for $380 and
no-cost shipping, who would want a 2439?

Have a good weekend everyone!

Dave

I have some sets of matched germanium diodes [sets of 4] if you can not find a matched pair.
Not sure of ratings have not had a need to use them. but if you need I can send.
Garth.

If the replacement attenuator works acceptably, I’ll use it. If not, I’ll pull the bnc from the new one and use my existing attenuator. Appreciate the suggestion re the possible source, though.

When I got this scope, for free, about two months ago, the ch 1 bnc was covered with duct tape and the statement that channel 1 didn’t work. Since then, I have visually inspected all of the caps, blown out the dust, verified the lvps voltages as correct and determined that the channel 1 issue seems to be cured by chilling U600. I suspect an intermittent terminal on U600 and will clean those contacts. All channels now work correctly, and the calibration seems pretty good still. Just working on the probe sensor ring and planning a future re capping right now.

This forum has been a great resource for me.

Thanks again for the offer re the bnc.

Greg

Just follow the AC in and check for it at each obvious point, if it gets to the main transformer, follow it on the secondary side to the full wave bridges, and so on.
This should be a simple fix...
tom jobe...

On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 2:22 PM Michael Wyatt via Groups.Io <microwyatt=
[email protected]> wrote:

Posted pics of the circuit
IMG_0760.JPG and IMG_0761.JPG

Album for posterity: /g/TekScopes/album?id=78665.

Hey Greg,

I replaced the BNCs on my 2467 a couple of years ago. See message
/g/TekScopes/message/115057 for the kind gentleman who
sourced replacement BNCs for me at a very reasonable price. Maybe he has
more of those.
I'd think the precise attenuation ratios of your attenuators get baked into
the calibration, so you'll likely stay closer by replacing the BNCs than
the entire attenuator. If your scope hasn't been calibrated in the last
couple of decades or so, it may not make for a hill of beans, though :).

Siggi

Ok, it appears that the bnc jack on the channel 1 attenuators is bad. The connection to the probe ring was loose and intermittent. The bnc jacks alone are not available for any reasonable price, so I picked up another attenuator.

Btw, the component numbers you referred to were for the 2465b. My 2465 has the same circuit with different component numbers.

Thanks again for the pointers.

Greg

Apologies, Bob, you'd largely 'been there' I now see....

--
Jack

Hi..ok and ok....then that should be a relatively straight forward chase(?), same as with a valve-amp....no voltage at transformer = break. Are their any 'conditioner' inductors on the line side of the transformer?
Is the main switch also switching .the neutral? Is the neutral actually only a 'phantom' A broken neutral can show continuity but fail under load. Check active and neutral at the outlet....I realise this sounds 'derr' but it can happen that the neutral is supplanted by a long path to earth. In the two cases I have experienced it over 50 years, it was a loose neutral connection at the incoming mains and a loose wire at the MEN link ....however if the rest of the house is all ok...it could be the GPO (outlet) a check is only 30 seconds.for a certainty and a firm starting point . I think another chap sent you circuits.
--
Jack

Step 2 - the fuse.? Step 3 - the power cord.? Step 3 - the line voltage selector.
You should measure contnuity across the prongs of the power plug, maybe 10 - 15 Ohms.
Bob