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I tend to avoid using hydrochloric acid on things electronic - as it's incredibly corrosive - unless you wash everything off and dry thoroughly. It's great for rejuvenating ironware such as files (full strength) or things like corroded battery contacts.- wash and oil immediately after. Just rejuvenated a collection of jeweller's files. Phosphoric acid is far less volatile so doesn't cause collateral damage- so more appropriate for electronic applications.

Hello,

I just got a ctt board and associated components from qservice for a 2445 scope. I installed it into a scope that already had option 5 so I figured it would be straight forward. I assumed wrong of course. It was all connected as it appeared in the service manual and the pictures in the listing, but i may have gotten something wrong because I'm getting 3 errors on startup and have no traces. The errors I'm getting are CT TEST 84 FAIL 0C, CT TEST 86 FAIL 02, CT TEST 87 FAIL 42. Is this something that I may have messed up on install or do I need to dig deeper? Most of my tools are boxed up and in storage as I just moved across the country, so im limited in what I can diagnose at the moment.

Thank you

This popped up in the Boston area in case anyone is interested. I don't see a trace in the photo. But it could just be off screen.

I have soldered and NOT spot welded on the specialty Tadiran cells to keep the RAM alive in the 2465A....that's since 2013 and 5 years running .....solder with the rust remover flux, applied with a wooden toothpick.
I use a 260 C temperature controlled station and it the 63/37 solder wets almost instantly. The cells were an odd size and were cylindrical. Something like a N cell, but wider diameter. Re-flowed with thin gauge copper to make the connections.
Mounted it with hot glue.
Kester SN63Pb37, type 44, 3.3%, Rosin core, 0.8mm , ANSI J STD 006C is my effective solder.

Surprisingly no ... I have used this technique even with 312 cells (for radiotracking critters) - critical issues - hot enough and well tinned iron, 22g cored solder and quench it immediately with a wet tissue or cloth. Pays practicing on some old cells.

I used to think that, and had a nice temperature
controlled iron with lots of mass. It would solder
in less than 1 second start to finish. But every single
time I did it, the cell whose "+" terminal I soldered
would leak electrolyte through that seal some time down the
road. It even happens sometimes when you use a spot welder
on cells where you spot weld on a heavy tab, such as a
terminal on a cordless tool pack. I always would find
those cells to leak when I rebuilt dead packs.

-Chuck Harris

Ancel wrote:

I found it electrifying reading. Didn't you?

Use the rust remover liquid (dilute HCL) found in hardwares as the flux. Then u can direct solder onto batteries with low heat in about 3 or 4 seconds. No spot welding needed.

It's as I thought.

Instruments built before 1963 had UHF connectors. The connector has a square flange secured to the back side of the bulkhead.

For 1963 production of the old instruments, they replaced the UHF connector with a BNC with the same square flange, and they didn't change the front panel or the bulkhead. They added a plastic trim ring to conceal the annular gap. (The ring is missing from my Type L plugin.)

For 1967 production of the old instruments, they retooled the bulkhead. The new connector mounts from the front instead of the rear. It's retained by a large round flange in the front, and secured by a ring nut in the rear. The flange makes a smooth visual transition to the large hole in the old UHF-style front panel.

Instruments introduced in 1963 and later had front-installed connectors with small round flange, and matching front panels.

Dave Wise
________________________________________
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Dave Wise <david_wise@...>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 9:04 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type G plugin versions

Further study of the catalogs suggests that they never did retool. In 1967, some instruments with plastic trim went "limited demand" without pictures; others simply dropped the trim. As far as I can tell, the hole stayed the same size. It's possible that the BNC was switched from square four-screw mount to round flange and single large rear retention nut. If I remember to, I will study my plugins when I'm at home this weekend.

Dave Wise
________________________________________
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 12:17 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type G plugin versions

Wow- my G is s/s 9934, so it's just after the change. Strange that they didn't change the sheet metal right away.
-Dave

From: Albert Otten <aodiversen@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type G plugin versions

According to the later manual Type G switched from UHF (131-012) to BNC (131-277) at S/N 9480. No idea in which year that was.
Albert

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 08:17 PM, Dave Wise wrote:

I don't know the G serial number at which Tek switched from UHF to BNC*, but
the 1962 catalog shows UHF while 1963 is BNC**. I think I have a newer manual
at home, I'll try to remember to look.

There was a mod kit for converting instruments in the field. I have at least
one modded scope and plugin. Yours too, most likely, as Tek would not have
sold instruments with such an obvious bodge.

Dave Wise

* For what it's worth, the 535A mainframe switched at 31260.
** Some old models were not updated.

I especially like the part about passing all the power on tests....


steve

Here is the options manual for the24xx scopes I found.

/g/TekScopes/files/2465A_2467_070-5857-00_Options_Manual_Jun87

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

File: 2465A_2467_070-5857-00_Options_Manual_Jun87.pdf

Uploaded By: satbeginner

Description:

You can access this file at the URL:
/g/TekScopes/files/2465A_2467_070-5857-00_Options_Manual_Jun87/2465A_2467_070-5857-00_Options_Manual_Jun87.pdf

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team

Evidently very heavy;_)

--
c smith
ka3bnn

you have got to WONDER about some of the ?people?
who are on the EPAY system.....

a bit to much bro/sis hanky panky in previous gen's.....


mike

Tektronix SD-24 TDR/Sampling Head User Manual

Item specifics
Condition: Used :
Seller Notes: ¡°Powers on and passes all Power On BIT Tests. All functions tested operate normally. Comes with 30 Day Right of Return if not 100% Happy with your purchase. Some Label/Sticker residue, dust, dirt, and possibly some pen marks may also exist. None of which effect the items functionality¡±

Albert

On Sat, 27 Oct 2018 at 12:18 <marc.nijssen@...> wrote:

When I got the 2445A the option board was not connected so I'm not sure
how to reconnect and even if all the cables are there.

Added a photo is the Photos section - is it only cables A/B/C ?

Hey Marc,

sorry I can't help with your problem. For others who may be able to help,
here's a link to the photo album: <
/g/TekScopes/album?id=76922>.

Siggi

first of all thanks to the group members for providing great info on how to repair/troubleshoot the 2445A power supply - all working fine now.

So scope is working fine except option 5 (Video Waveform Measurement System).

When I got the 2445A the option board was not connected so I'm not sure how to reconnect and even if all the cables are there.

Added a photo is the Photos section - is it only cables A/B/C ?

Your help is appreciated.

Marc

You cannot heat the button on a SS battery case to soldering
temperature without melting, and damaging the internal seal.

Spot welding is the only way that is safe for the cell.

Send me the cell, and return postage, and I would gladly do
the job for anyone that needs it done.

-Chuck Harris

battyhugh wrote:

For the 24xx broken internal knob clips problem, I've had good success with 3M #4926 VHB (very high bond) foam tape. A small dot placed on the tip of the shaft extender or all the way on the inside flat area of the knob will hold it. The foam tape is only 15mil thick, so it doesn't make the knob stick out.

Like the RTV, you can pull it off again with minimal force. You can also stick it back on again if the tape it doesn't get mangled, and you don't have to wait for it to cure.

In case anyone wasn't aware - soldering stainless steel is very easy - you need a (small) drop of 20% orthophosphoric acid. Solders instantly (so you don't heat the battery) - wipe it off when you have finished.
You don't need to tab.
Hugh.