开云体育

On September 30, 2018 at 2:47 PM "george edmonds via Groups.Io" <G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... > wrote:


Hi All
I have now removed one of the sockets, they are not as anticipated, the locking arrangement used is a floating annular ring with three "ears". I suspect that the inside bore of the removal tool requires a short lead in to allow the "ears" to enter the bore of the removal tool.
73 George G6HIG.


On Sunday, September 30, 2018 8:22 PM, tom jobe <tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... > wrote:


Between yesterday and today I tried making an assortment of tools that
might be able to remove the pins from the black plastic block on a 465
that serves as the voltage range selector and fuse block.
In the end, I failed to remove a single pin, and here is the story.
(This will be explained in inches, using common drill sizes available
in the mostly non-metric world I live in)
I machined the tools from brass bar stock and tried various inside and
outside dimensions on them.
The outside diameter of the tools could not exceed about 0.126" inches
where they fit into the plastic block on the back of the scope, and the
inside diameter had to be about 0.102" inches or larger to fit over the
pins. The next largest drill in the number drills I have is 0.104"
inches and that size hole will clear the pin's outside diameter coming
in from the back of the scope very nicely.
A tool with these dimensions will go in about 0.450" inches, and it is
not making hard contact with any surface except the bottom of the recess
in the black block around the pin. From the front side of the plastic
block you can slightly move the pin your tool is on, and there is
clearly no hard connection between the tool and the pin.
This made me wonder if the bottom of the recess in the plastic block was
a flat surface, so I filed a 'chisel' end on the tool so only the point
of the chisel end would touch the bottom in any one place. You can then
spin the tool around and feel that the bottom of the 0.126+ recess is
quite flat.
When you push any of the tools I made into the bottom of the recess in
the plastic block, they never push hard against any surface of the pin,
and the pin can be slight moved around in a very loose way from the
front side where the wires come into the plastic block.
One person reported being able to take these pins out with a tool they
have, perhaps they meant they could do that on some other kind of
similar pin?
Another issue after one figures out how to remove these pins, is that
some rows of pins are three pins ganged together on the back side, so
you would need three tools for those two rows of three pins each.
tom jobe...
PS the larger outside diameter on these pins where the wires come in on
the front side of the block is about 0.121" inches as best i could
measure in a crowded area.






On 9/28/2018 4:37 PM, tom jobe wrote:

> > I have been following this discussion, and today took a 4xx scope

apart to study what all of you are talking about.
A Google search shows that the tools to remove these kinds of contacts
come in many-many sizes and it seems the one closest in size to
George's older tool has a 2.7mm hole instead of George's 2.5mm hole.
This is addition to any dimensional problems the newer tools have. If
the hole in the tool is too large and does not squeeze the spring
contact in far enough to release the contact from the hole, that could
possibly be Jim's problem?
The holes in the black plastic connector block appear to be very close
to 0.125" (1/8th of an inch) which probably will work with the nominal
3.2mm outside diameter the tools are listed as having.
Maybe I will make some test parts on the lathe tomorrow to see what it
takes to release those contacts.
tom jobe...

>

> > On 9/28/2018 11:21 AM, george edmonds via Groups.Io wrote:

> > > Hi Jim

I have a scrap 4XX scope and have tried to remove the sockets with
the extraction tool that I have, it was a simple matter to do so.
Be aware that most of the extraction tools that originate in China
are dimensionally poor, at best.
The tool that I have has a spring loaded plunger which you press and
the socket just popped out,
The extractor tube dimensions are OD 3.2mm and the ID is 2.5mm ,
sorry as I have had this tool some 45 years I cannot give you any
idea of the manufacturer as it is unmarked.
73 George G6HIG

> >

> >>

>> On Friday, September 28, 2018 5:24 PM, Jim Olson
>> <v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:
>>
>> Fabio,
>> Sorry I was referring to the 4xx series of scopes and the black main
>> power connector on the back for the fuse and voltage selector jumper.
>> I need to remove the connectors from the connector block there is a
>> tek tool for this but can't find one so bought a pin and socket
>> extractor set as it has the right size for the sockets. It will slide
>> in and feels like it compresses the lock tabs but the socket won't
>> release and slide out. So I wanted to put it to some of the more
>> experienced folks here so anyone know this feel free to jump in I
>> really don't want to cut off the primary wires for the transformer as
>> the sockets are crimped and necessary and most likely hard to find.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>> On September 28, 2018 at 6:44 AM Fabio Trevisan
>>> <fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello Jim,
>>> I`m not quite sure abut what equipment you're talking here?
>>> I saw a post from you about this subject some days ago and,
>>> although I don't remember exactly about what equipment it was, I`m
>>> confident that if it was about a model that I`m familiar with, it
>>> would have grabbed my attention (and maybe I would have even picked
>>> a try to answer you).
>>> Nevertheless... If you let me know the model, I can consult the
>>> manuals / pictures and give it my shot...
>>> If it's an equipment I never had (and I only had a 464 and now
>>> this 7623A), my guess will be as good as anyone's but I may be in a
>>> good day.
>>> Rgrds,
>>> Fabio
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 12:19 AM, Jim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > > Fabio,
>>>> A side question here I need to remove the sockets from the
>>>> main power
>>>> connector, (fuse block), so got some tubular connector
>>>> removal tools but when
>>>> I slide it down the socket It feels like it pushes in the
>>>> release tabs and
>>>> stops but the socket won't pull out.
>>>> So what kind of tool do I need here to get it to release?
>>>> It's not working
>>>> like I am used to with normal connectors!
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

> >

>

Hi
Why not use PTFE hardline.
George G6HIG

On Monday, October 1, 2018 6:09 AM, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@...> wrote:


Maybe some custom made fused ceramic disk cable?


Michael A. Terrell

From: "george edmonds via Groups.Io" <G6HIG@...>

Hi
Why not use PTFE hardline.

From: Daniel Lu <huatien.jo@...>

Hello everyone, I have a friend asking me if there is a kind of RF cable that can endure environmental temperature up to 400 degree Celsius. He said it is for aircraft testing, and as far as I know, the existing cables from different product line only make maximum endurance to 200 degree. Is it possible to that a cable a endure up to 400 degree?

From: Daniel Lu <huatien.jo@...>

Hello everyone, I have a friend asking me if there is a kind of RF cable that can endure environmental temperature up to 400 degree Celsius. He said it is for aircraft testing, and as far as I know, the existing cables from different product line only make maximum endurance to 200 degree. Is it possible to that a cable a endure up to 400 degree?

From: Daniel Lu <huatien.jo@...>

Hello everyone, I have a friend asking me if there is a kind of RF cable that can endure environmental temperature up to 400 degree Celsius. He said it is for aircraft testing, and as far as I know, the existing cables from different product line only make maximum endurance to 200 degree. Is it possible to that a cable a endure up to 400 degree?

On September 30, 2018 at 12:22 PM tom jobe <tomjobe@...> wrote:


Between yesterday and today I tried making an assortment of tools that
might be able to remove the pins from the black plastic block on a 465
that serves as the voltage range selector and fuse block.
In the end, I failed to remove a single pin, and here is the story.
(This will be explained in inches, using common drill sizes available
in the mostly non-metric world I live in)
I machined the tools from brass bar stock and tried various inside and
outside dimensions on them.
The outside diameter of the tools could not exceed about 0.126" inches
where they fit into the plastic block on the back of the scope, and the
inside diameter had to be about 0.102" inches or larger to fit over the
pins. The next largest drill in the number drills I have is 0.104"
inches and that size hole will clear the pin's outside diameter coming
in from the back of the scope very nicely.
A tool with these dimensions will go in about 0.450" inches, and it is
not making hard contact with any surface except the bottom of the recess
in the black block around the pin. From the front side of the plastic
block you can slightly move the pin your tool is on, and there is
clearly no hard connection between the tool and the pin.
This made me wonder if the bottom of the recess in the plastic block was
a flat surface, so I filed a 'chisel' end on the tool so only the point
of the chisel end would touch the bottom in any one place. You can then
spin the tool around and feel that the bottom of the 0.126+ recess is
quite flat.
When you push any of the tools I made into the bottom of the recess in
the plastic block, they never push hard against any surface of the pin,
and the pin can be slight moved around in a very loose way from the
front side where the wires come into the plastic block.
One person reported being able to take these pins out with a tool they
have, perhaps they meant they could do that on some other kind of
similar pin?
Another issue after one figures out how to remove these pins, is that
some rows of pins are three pins ganged together on the back side, so
you would need three tools for those two rows of three pins each.
tom jobe...
PS the larger outside diameter on these pins where the wires come in on
the front side of the block is about 0.121" inches as best i could
measure in a crowded area.






On 9/28/2018 4:37 PM, tom jobe wrote:

I have been following this discussion, and today took a 4xx scope
apart to study what all of you are talking about.
A Google search shows that the tools to remove these kinds of contacts
come in many-many sizes and it seems the one closest in size to
George's older tool has a 2.7mm hole instead of George's 2.5mm hole.
This is addition to any dimensional problems the newer tools have. If
the hole in the tool is too large and does not squeeze the spring
contact in far enough to release the contact from the hole, that could
possibly be Jim's problem?
The holes in the black plastic connector block appear to be very close
to 0.125" (1/8th of an inch) which probably will work with the nominal
3.2mm outside diameter the tools are listed as having.
Maybe I will make some test parts on the lathe tomorrow to see what it
takes to release those contacts.
tom jobe...

On 9/28/2018 11:21 AM, george edmonds via Groups.Io wrote:

Hi Jim
I have a scrap 4XX scope and have tried to remove the sockets with
the extraction tool that I have, it was a simple matter to do so.
Be aware that most of the extraction tools that originate in China
are dimensionally poor, at best.
The tool that I have has a spring loaded plunger which you press and
the socket just popped out,
The extractor tube dimensions are OD 3.2mm and the ID is 2.5mm ,
sorry as I have had this tool some 45 years I cannot give you any
idea of the manufacturer as it is unmarked.
73 George G6HIG


On Friday, September 28, 2018 5:24 PM, Jim Olson
<v_12eng@...> wrote:

Fabio,
Sorry I was referring to the 4xx series of scopes and the black main
power connector on the back for the fuse and voltage selector jumper.
I need to remove the connectors from the connector block there is a
tek tool for this but can't find one so bought a pin and socket
extractor set as it has the right size for the sockets. It will slide
in and feels like it compresses the lock tabs but the socket won't
release and slide out. So I wanted to put it to some of the more
experienced folks here so anyone know this feel free to jump in I
really don't want to cut off the primary wires for the transformer as
the sockets are crimped and necessary and most likely hard to find.

Jim

On September 28, 2018 at 6:44 AM Fabio Trevisan
<fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... > wrote:


Hello Jim,
I`m not quite sure abut what equipment you're talking here?
I saw a post from you about this subject some days ago and,
although I don't remember exactly about what equipment it was, I`m
confident that if it was about a model that I`m familiar with, it
would have grabbed my attention (and maybe I would have even picked
a try to answer you).
Nevertheless... If you let me know the model, I can consult the
manuals / pictures and give it my shot...
If it's an equipment I never had (and I only had a 464 and now
this 7623A), my guess will be as good as anyone's but I may be in a
good day.
Rgrds,
Fabio

On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 12:19 AM, Jim Olson wrote:

>

> > Fabio,

A side question here I need to remove the sockets from the
main power
connector, (fuse block), so got some tubular connector
removal tools but when
I slide it down the socket It feels like it pushes in the
release tabs and
stops but the socket won't pull out.
So what kind of tool do I need here to get it to release?
It's not working
like I am used to with normal connectors!

Jim

>

Hello everyone, I have a friend asking me if there is a kind of rf cable that can endure environmental temperture up to 400 degree celsius. He said it is for aircraft testing, and as far as I know, the existing cables from differnt product line only make maximun endurence to 200 degree. Is it possible to that a cable a endure up to 400 degree?

I have a Tek 7104 1GHz scope. There is a slide switch inside on the right side on the A13 Logic circuit board and I believe it is labeled S4488. There is no writing next to it, and the manual does not show its purpose. Does anyone know what this switch is used for?

On Sep 30, 2018, at 06:23, loyde downie <mdownie@...>
wrote:

item 112676196038

Doesn’t ship to non-US destinations.

Grü?e, Carsten

Archive.org saves the text pages but not the database behind the search
pages.

Bob.

On 9/29/2018 6:57 PM, penguin2004au wrote:

Greetings group:
I looked at this site recently, wanting some

info about CRT part numbers vs scope models, and found the pages would not
respond to my enquiry.

For example entering 545 as a model number resulted

in a response "this model was not found in the database"

Does anybody know what has happened and/or can

somebody fix the problem?

Regards: penguin2004au