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Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error
On Sat, Aug 25, 2018 at 17:12 <Sscandizzo@...> wrote:
Thanks, Siggi. This may take some hunting, depending on your A5 board version. On some they¡¯re brought out to TP2420 and TP2421, on others you may need to find them on the schematic and measure on a suitable pin. |
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Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error
On Sat, 25 Aug 2018 at 16:15 <Sscandizzo@...> wrote:
I went to J119 and checked the voltages. Two points failed:Oh, goody, maybe you just have some power supply issues to work through. I don't think I am properly measuring total p-p ripple; my values seem Is this using the settings specified in the service manual (see below)? AND I have no clue how to measure the p-p at 2x line frequency. I suspect it's obvious, but I'm at a total loss.The service manual specifies using a 1X probe, AC coupling, 2mV/DIV, LINE trigger, 5ms/DIV and 20MHz bandwidth limit on. This is what the LINE trigger is for, pretty much, this way the ripple on the rail will stand still on your trace. I'm guessing total ripple would be the largest excursions you see on an analog scope of the time - not sure how to reproduce that on your cheap digital scope :). All the boards appear to be from 1987 and populated with late '88 chips &I've never heard of the DAC reference going bad in anything but the SMD version of the A5 board, so scrap that whole angle :). You still may want to measure the 1.36 & -1.25V reference voltages, as they can indicate trouble elsewhere as well. |
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Re: Tek 2467b test 05 error
Hi Guys,
Update time. Finally got in (stripped torx heads are no fun - drilled it out.) I went to J119 and checked the voltages. Two points failed: J119-5 (-4.965 to -5.035) measured -4.53 J119-11 (-7.88 to -8.12) measured -6.30 To answer Siggi's question, I'm comfortable around old computers (6502's and 8086/88's) and replacing both chips and discrete components. I don't think I am properly measuring total p-p ripple; my values seem significantly less than (a factor of 10) the tolerances. AND I have no clue how to measure the p-p at 2x line frequency. I suspect it's obvious, but I'm at a total loss. All the boards appear to be from 1987 and populated with late '88 chips & hybrids. Not a single smd to be found (correction, a small daughter card about 0.5" x 2" near the top right of the main board). -Stefan |
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Re: 475 switch lettering
On 8/24/2018 9:03 AM, KL7AM wrote:I was able to use two micro screwdrivers to insert in each side of the button from behind and gently rock back and forth to pop the buttons off my 485 and replace the push buttons. The places I couldn't reach with the screw drivers I used picks. Just be sure not to bust out the side of the button with too much pressure.Lettering is mostly gone on most of the push switches. I have a parts 475with good lettering and am curious if I would have to swap the whole switch |
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Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector
Good day, ?
may I second Dallas¡® advice. JB Weld has worked well for repairs of 5000-series front panel bezels, also.?JB Weld was hard to get in Europe, but it is available from Conrad.de and other sources for some time now... Cheers, Magnus Jim, I used 'J-B WELD Original' works quite well. Never had much luck with epoxy. Mix it thoroughly and wait a little to firm up before using. Dallas -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- |
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Re: 475 switch lettering
Greetings 475 and other Tek scope owners
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The best way I have found to repair the labels on the face of the pushbuttons on Tek scopes is as follows:? You do not need to remove the pushbuttons to re-label them. 1) With the scope standing up remove the residue of the original labels with a rag moistened with WD40.? Hold the pushbuttons with a pair of needle point pliers with shrink wrap applied over the points then heated.? Clean the residue of WD40 on the pushbutton with a Q tip moistened with alcohol before proceeding. 2) Using your computer and a word processor create the labels you want in small size and a bold font.? Print a copy on paper and see how it fits the switches.? If you do not want to use the decal approach apply double sided tape to the back of the labels and press the taped legend in place.? Trim the edges using a sharp scalpel. The drawback to the tape idea is that you do not have the opportunity to position the legend exactly where you want it. 3) Print the labels using your laser printer on decal paper.? It is available at Office Mart, Staples or Kinkos. 4) Cut out the appropriate label, soak it in water for 20 seconds, place it on the top of the pushbutton switch and carefully slide the decal off the backing paper.? Position the decal where you want it and carefully blot it with a soft rag.? Allow to dry overnight. Reed Dickinson On 8/24/2018 9:03 AM, KL7AM wrote:
Lettering is mostly gone on most of the push switches. I have a parts 475 with good lettering and am curious if I would have to swap the whole switch assembly or do is there an easier way? |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
tom jobe
The yellow October 1982 version is here:
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w140.com/Tektronix_Xref_sm.pdf On 8/24/2018 6:00 PM, ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð wrote:
sure enough it is No.1 ! hiding in plain sight... line draw of a 1 no wonder I missed it. |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
sure enough it is No.1 ! hiding in plain sight... line draw of a 1 no wonder I missed it.
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thanks ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð On 2018-08-24 05:03 PM, ROLYNN PRECHTL wrote:
On Fri, 24 Aug 2018 16:57:31 -0700 |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
How does number eight compare to the semi conductors catalog? ====================================================== Along the lines of #7, an addendum. Includes updated transistor and diode info, case styles, surface mount critters, heat sinks, insulators, lamps etc. Rolynn |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
also in existence is Semiconductors dated Oct 1982 it does not have a catalogue no.
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I have a pdf copy, yellow cover 32.5Mb titled Tektronix_Xref_sm not sure where I obtained it. I can try and up load if needed. ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð On 2018-08-24 04:36 PM, ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW wrote:
Catalog 7 is a supplement to the other 6.? Dated Oct. 1984,it is a collection of notes, specs, and advice in a looseleaf tabbed notebook.========================================================================= |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
Well, I saved it from the trash.? What I don't have is scancapacity beyond 1-page at a time, or the OCR software.?
JimMc On Friday, August 24, 2018, 4:36:10 PM PDT, ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW <k7dfw@...> wrote: Catalog 7 is a supplement to the other 6.? Dated Oct. 1984,it is a collection of notes, specs, and advice in a looseleaf tabbed notebook.?========================================================================= Don't forget Catalog #8 "TRANSISTORS, DIODES & MISC. CATALOG" 21 sections. No date found on mine (so far). Paid $80 to get this one! Rolynn Tek Bvtn and Sunset 1966-1971 |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
How does number eight compare to the semi conductors catalog?
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Dave Wise On Aug 24, 2018, at 4:39 PM, ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW <k7dfw@...> wrote:Catalog 7 is a supplement to the other 6. Dated Oct. 1984,it is a collection of notes, specs, and advice in a looseleaf tabbed notebook.========================================================================= |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
Catalog 7 is a supplement to the other 6.? Dated Oct. 1984,it is a collection of notes, specs, and advice in a looseleaf tabbed notebook.?========================================================================= Don't forget Catalog #8 "TRANSISTORS, DIODES & MISC. CATALOG" 21 sections. No date found on mine (so far). Paid $80 to get this one! Rolynn Tek Bvtn and Sunset 1966-1971 |
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Re: scanned: Common Parts Design Catalog #6, Wire, Insulation, and Power Supplies, May 1988
Catalog 7 is a supplement to the other 6.? Dated Oct. 1984,it is a collection of notes, specs, and advice in a looseleaf tabbed notebook.?
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JimMc On Friday, August 24, 2018, 3:27:42 PM PDT, Dennis Tillman W7PF <dennis@...> wrote:
Hi Leon, Originally Tek produced 6. If you look at the back cover of the bound ones it shows abbreviated contents for each of the six. I have been told by one person that at some later date Tek produced a 7th one but I haven't seen it. They were not published at the same time as a set, but rather individually as necessary. So the dates on them are usually different. I do not know if newer dated ones eliminated parts from earlier ones that might be obsolete at the time it was created. If that is the case then it would be valuable to find as many older versions of these parts catalogs to give us all the information possible to use when tracking down part numbers. Dennis Tillman W7PF -----Original Message----- -- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator |
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Re: 7000 series white plug-in connector
Thanks, Jeff.
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I'll try the epoxy, while being careful not to put too much on there and block anything. Weekend project as I had to leave early from work and couldn't get the scrap HP 54504A DSO out of the building yet.? Monday for sure. Jim Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Jeff Urban <JURB6006@...> Date: 8/24/18 1:53 PM (GMT-08:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 7000 series white plug-in connector
When my cohort gets out of the hospital, he has a 7613 in the basket for sure. The wrong person worked on the power supply and I couldn't get it going again. Storage also quit on it before that. We also have some plugins, so it is ripe to try and build a set of extenders for it since they don't seem to readily available. That part of the scope will come apart for that. Problem is he had open heart surgery and has no idea when they're going to cut him loose, or what kind of shape he'll be in. You might end up epoxying it first. And to comment on that, there is no harm in trying, it is broke anyway. I would also consider using zip ties to clamp it together. I don't believe it broke due to force, it is only an edge connector. The plastic is probably brittle from outgassing for 40 years or whatever. Keep us posted on if it works, if not I'll see what I can do. At least he lived... |
Jeff Urban
ROLYNN PRECHTL K7DFW
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