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Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

On Tue, 7 Aug 2018 15:52:42 +0100, you wrote:

Hi Tom,

Had a look at the stripline and yes, I have a short bit of braid hanging
out the end too, Fig 4-26 on Page 4-27 of the manual seems to show it
just hanging loose (didn't know they were that laid back in Oregon?) so
I guess that's how it's meant to be.
Isn't that attached (as a pull) to the tunnel diode or part of the
holder?

Harvey


Just waiting for the last of the correct replacement parts to arrive
from Digikey (takes a day or two longer to get to the UK) and I'll
replace the tacked-in temporary bits and then see if I can run through
the test/calibration procedures, but it's looking good so far! Just the
chart recorder to look at now.



On 8/6/2018 10:46 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

I have one other 'loose end' wire on the 1502 which also puzzled me,
what looks like it could have been an earth connection at the rear
(TD end) of the strip line, but nowhere obvious that it might have
linked to.? My 1502 has a somewhat below spec rise time and I
wondered if this could be linked to the missing earth connection.



Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

The recorder I have seems to have a full roll and I found a UK company that claims to sell it but at a stupid 'go-away' price (~30 bucks a roll!!) with an MOQ of ten rolls, so I'm not really tempted! If it wasn't for the sprocket holes, which aren't driven but have a LED/Photodiode looking through them (for timing?) a roll of thermal 2" till-roll would work I suspect.

You make a good point, I will look out for an X-Y module - I still have a working HP7035B Chart Recorder somewhere too!

On 8/7/2018 4:36 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
Do you have a source of the paper?

If not then I prefer the XY chart recorder outputs, since they can drive a digitising scope and (theoretically!) allow it to be stored underwater :)


On 07/08/18 15:52, Adrian wrote:
Hi Tom,

Had a look at the stripline and yes, I have a short bit of braid hanging out the end too, Fig 4-26 on Page 4-27 of the manual seems to show it just hanging loose (didn't know they were that laid back in Oregon?) so I guess that's how it's meant to be.

Just waiting for the last of the correct replacement parts to arrive from Digikey (takes a day or two longer to get to the UK) and I'll replace the tacked-in temporary bits and then see if I can run through the test/calibration procedures, but it's looking good so far! Just the chart recorder to look at now.



On 8/6/2018 10:46 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

I have one other 'loose end' wire on the 1502 which also puzzled me, what looks like it could have been an earth connection at the rear (TD end) of the strip line, but nowhere obvious that it might have linked to.? My 1502 has a somewhat below spec rise time and I wondered if this could be linked to the missing earth connection.


Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

Do you have a source of the paper?

If not then I prefer the XY chart recorder outputs, since they can drive a digitising scope and (theoretically!) allow it to be stored underwater :)

On 07/08/18 15:52, Adrian wrote:
Hi Tom,

Had a look at the stripline and yes, I have a short bit of braid hanging out the end too, Fig 4-26 on Page 4-27 of the manual seems to show it just hanging loose (didn't know they were that laid back in Oregon?) so I guess that's how it's meant to be.

Just waiting for the last of the correct replacement parts to arrive from Digikey (takes a day or two longer to get to the UK) and I'll replace the tacked-in temporary bits and then see if I can run through the test/calibration procedures, but it's looking good so far! Just the chart recorder to look at now.



On 8/6/2018 10:46 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

I have one other 'loose end' wire on the 1502 which also puzzled me, what looks like it could have been an earth connection at the rear (TD end) of the strip line, but nowhere obvious that it might have linked to.? My 1502 has a somewhat below spec rise time and I wondered if this could be linked to the missing earth connection.


Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

 



On Tue, Aug 7, 2018, 8:21 AM Pete Lancashire <pete@...>
wrote:

California air tools Amazon Prime hundred sixty bucks. Very quiet oil free
excetera excetera.

Gives you the pressure most desoldering tools need such as my metcal which
needs 90 PSI.




On Sat, Jul 28, 2018, 10:56 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...>
wrote:

FWIW I have also built a "silent" compressor.
Well, I had to, after switching that monster from the DIY store on the
first time I knew I wouldn't put up with that racket.

I took a refrigeration compressor, a slightly larger one from a
commercial unit, and cut it open to clean it (it was rusted solid),
and replaced the oil with regular motor oil. You really need to
replace that oil since refrigeration oil is hygroscopic and everything
will rust like crazy if you run it in air.
I simply cut open the case with an angle grinder, and later sealed it
back up with a rubber strip and a metal band.
Mine is from 1970 or thereabouts, made in Scotland of all places. The
old cast iron ones are better than the aluminium ones, in my mind
anyway.
It fills up the tank of the noisy compressor, but has it's own
pressure switch, I just didn't have a suitable pressure vessel at the
time.

Refrigeration compressors typically don't have piston rings, so they
introduce more oil into the the air than other piston compressors. But
it tends to settle out in the tank and not cause any issue.

Some commercial silent compressors look suspiciously like
refrigeration compressors anyway, with an added sight glass for the
oil level.
I guess a scroll compressor from a modern AC unit would be neat too,
but those are usually higher powered and not really silent.

ST








On Sat, Jul 28, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Pete Lancashire <xyzzypdx@...>
wrote:
Eric I'm curious on your air compressor since the metcal seed 90 PSI
can you contact me off group and tell me how you build it thanks



Re: Desoldering Iron, was Re: [TekScopes] 466-464 stray wire

 

California air tools Amazon Prime hundred sixty bucks. Very quiet oil free
excetera excetera.

Gives you the pressure most desoldering tools need such as my metcal which
needs 90 PSI.

On Sat, Jul 28, 2018, 10:56 AM stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

FWIW I have also built a "silent" compressor.
Well, I had to, after switching that monster from the DIY store on the
first time I knew I wouldn't put up with that racket.

I took a refrigeration compressor, a slightly larger one from a
commercial unit, and cut it open to clean it (it was rusted solid),
and replaced the oil with regular motor oil. You really need to
replace that oil since refrigeration oil is hygroscopic and everything
will rust like crazy if you run it in air.
I simply cut open the case with an angle grinder, and later sealed it
back up with a rubber strip and a metal band.
Mine is from 1970 or thereabouts, made in Scotland of all places. The
old cast iron ones are better than the aluminium ones, in my mind
anyway.
It fills up the tank of the noisy compressor, but has it's own
pressure switch, I just didn't have a suitable pressure vessel at the
time.

Refrigeration compressors typically don't have piston rings, so they
introduce more oil into the the air than other piston compressors. But
it tends to settle out in the tank and not cause any issue.

Some commercial silent compressors look suspiciously like
refrigeration compressors anyway, with an added sight glass for the
oil level.
I guess a scroll compressor from a modern AC unit would be neat too,
but those are usually higher powered and not really silent.

ST








On Sat, Jul 28, 2018 at 5:39 PM, Pete Lancashire <xyzzypdx@...>
wrote:
Eric I'm curious on your air compressor since the metcal seed 90 PSI
can you contact me off group and tell me how you build it thanks



Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

Hi Tom,

Had a look at the stripline and yes, I have a short bit of braid hanging out the end too, Fig 4-26 on Page 4-27 of the manual seems to show it just hanging loose (didn't know they were that laid back in Oregon?) so I guess that's how it's meant to be.

Just waiting for the last of the correct replacement parts to arrive from Digikey (takes a day or two longer to get to the UK) and I'll replace the tacked-in temporary bits and then see if I can run through the test/calibration procedures, but it's looking good so far! Just the chart recorder to look at now.

On 8/6/2018 10:46 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

I have one other 'loose end' wire on the 1502 which also puzzled me, what looks like it could have been an earth connection at the rear (TD end) of the strip line, but nowhere obvious that it might have linked to.? My 1502 has a somewhat below spec rise time and I wondered if this could be linked to the missing earth connection.


Re: Tek 549 storage board anomaly

 

Thank you, Rajesh. Yes it seems so, as this one is #5202 (Portland facilities).

The mod has been done in 1965, as both the board picture in the available manuals and my physical board have printed "1965" in a copper/gold area.
The figure shows also the "PB" inscription, while this physical board shows "PE". A revision version?

For reference, the mentioned picture is the following:
- (BAMA manual, S/N 1408) Fig. 4-16 in page 4-11 (with a typo in the overlay label for R1185).
- (manoman.sqhill.com manual) Fig. 4-15 in page 4-10.
Both manuals are available on Kurt's site.

Regards,
Sebastian.


Rajesh VS wrote:

just for reference, I DO see R1185 in my 549, Scope Serial # - 001295.
May be the change happened in later Revs?

regds
Rajesh
. . .

On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 8:39 PM, Sebastian Garcia <sg-listas@...>
wrote:
Hi, I know this is an old post, but same puzzle here.

Trimpot R1185 and nearby flood-gate related components (appearing in the
available PDF manuals) aren't physically present in my storage board (dated
1965).

Any clues on the storage circuits evolution of this model?

Regards,
Sebastian.




Tim Phillips <tim@...> 06/20/10 #49860
from Tim P (UK)

I am trying to cal a 549 storage 'scope ser# 701529
The manual refers to FG cathode level R1195, but
on this instrument this pot does not exist. In fact
it appears to have never existed on this storage board
(dated 1965). Both my manual and the BAMA one show it
(sectn 6-45 and the schematic) There must be another
manual with a different cal procedure. Anyone have any
insights ?
many thanks (confused) Tim P


Re: Tek 549 storage board anomaly

 

just for reference, I DO see R1185 in my 549, Scope Serial # - 001295.
May be the change happened in later Revs?

regds
Rajesh





On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 8:39 PM, Sebastian Garcia <sg-listas@...>
wrote:

Hi, I know this is an old post, but same puzzle here.

Trimpot R1185 and nearby flood-gate related components (appearing in the
available PDF manuals) aren't physically present in my storage board (dated
1965).

Any clues on the storage circuits evolution of this model?

Regards,
Sebastian.




Tim Phillips <tim@...> 06/20/10 #49860
from Tim P (UK)

I am trying to cal a 549 storage 'scope ser# 701529
The manual refers to FG cathode level R1195, but
on this instrument this pot does not exist. In fact
it appears to have never existed on this storage board
(dated 1965). Both my manual and the BAMA one show it
(sectn 6-45 and the schematic) There must be another
manual with a different cal procedure. Anyone have any
insights ?
many thanks (confused) Tim P




--
/Rajesh


Re: scanned: 545B and 561 Instrument Reference Books

 

Interesting material Kurt, so thanx for the good work.
Maybe more in the pipeline from other scopes?
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦


Re: Tek 549 storage board anomaly

 

Hi, I know this is an old post, but same puzzle here.

Trimpot R1185 and nearby flood-gate related components (appearing in the available PDF manuals) aren't physically present in my storage board (dated 1965).

Any clues on the storage circuits evolution of this model?

Regards,
Sebastian.




Tim Phillips <tim@...> 06/20/10 #49860
from Tim P (UK)

I am trying to cal a 549 storage 'scope ser# 701529
The manual refers to FG cathode level R1195, but
on this instrument this pot does not exist. In fact
it appears to have never existed on this storage board
(dated 1965). Both my manual and the BAMA one show it
(sectn 6-45 and the schematic) There must be another
manual with a different cal procedure. Anyone have any
insights ?
many thanks (confused) Tim P


Re: 1L20 for $95 BIN - OREGON USA

 

500-series plug-ins such as the 1L20 put out 0.1V/division. In contrast, 560-series mainframes expect the vertical plug-in to put out about 19.5 V/cm, due the architectural decision to have the vertical amplifier reside in the plug-ins rather than in the mainframe.


Re: 1L20 for $95 BIN - OREGON USA

 

No, and not that I'm aware of.... I'm sure some enterprising soul
could come up with an adapter tho.

The 561 takes 2xx, and 3xx series plugins. For a 561, you're looking
for a 3L5, or 3L10....

See the TekWiki for further details.

David

On Mon, Aug 6, 2018 at 5:48 PM, John Griessen <john@...> wrote:
Would it fit in a 561? Is there a plugin adapter for that purpose?



Re: 464-466 w/dm44

 

Fabio thanks for some reason I did not receive the PM responce but oh well I have it now. The only problem with your idea on this board is that none of the through hole vias is they were never soldered at all absolutely no trace of solder anywhere around all the holes. I have not investigated the A6 inter board to see if something has been done there and also with any extra wiring from somewhere else.

Jim

On August 6, 2018 at 11:58 AM Fabio Trevisan <fabio.tr3visan@...> wrote:


Hello Jim,
The pictures did arrive correctly to me and I just posted the pictures to the Tekscopes photo section:
link is here:
/g/TekScopes/album?id=65983

As I already replied in PM to you, I'll repeat it here... This rather odd missing of the through hole plating of **ONLY** the power supply rails, to me, seems like an effort of a previous owner to isolate a short-circuit in the power rails.
Given the age of those scopes, it can very well have happened before this group even existed, and before it became common knowledge that this kind of problem is often caused by a shorted tantalum capacitor, and then the scope was tossed away for - say - 20 years.
I would suggest you take advantage that the through holes are stripped out, and try to measure ohms from each of those traces to ground, everywhere that you can follow them and, if you happen to find some spot that is showing low impedance to ground... you'd have probably found the culprit.
If you can't find any of those traces shorted to ground, I would just rebuild the through-hole vias and try to apply power to the thing.
As I mentioned earlier, I don't think the presence or absence of the DM44 is too involving, in regards to the A5 trigger board and, sure enough, it has nothing to do with this mystery of the missing vias.
The only there is between the DM44 & the A5 trigger board, is the pick-off signal from the ALT TRACE SYNC PULSE, from the emitter of Q916, shown on diagram <8> of the 464 and connected through a 20K resistor, from this transistor, to a wire and then to the DM44 through pin 2 of P3201, as shown on the DM44's service manual, diagram <3> "TIME & 1/TIME <3>" and diagram <9> "464,465 & 466 INTERFACE".
The latter is the signal that tells the DM44 the end of a sweep, to allow the DM44 to switch the delay time control voltage at the end of every sweep, between the scope's own Delay time multiplier pot, and the DM44's Delta time pot (and v-v) which, ultimately is what allows the measurement of TIME and 1/TIME.

Please let us know what else did you find on this board power rails.

KRgrds,

Fabio



On Sat, Aug 4, 2018 at 09:23 PM, Jim Olson wrote:


Hi Fabio I sent the picts in an email to you PM but comcast has changed there
email to a new system so I'm not sure if you got it or not.

Jim

On August 3, 2018 at 12:23 PM Fabio Trevisan <fabio.tr3visan@...>
wrote:


Hi Jim,

Feel free to send me the pictures (PM to fabio.tr3visan@...).
I will be glad to post it to the photos area of Tekscopes.io, and reply to
you with a link to the folder.
Rgrds,
Fabio


On Fri, Aug 3, 2018 at 03:07 PM, Jim Olson wrote:


Fabio I have the pictures but I'm not using any kind of photo posting
service
it's gotten to complicated and I don't post much to forums anyway so can I
send them to you and you can post them up?

Jim

On August 3, 2018 at 7:26 AM Fabio Trevisan <fabio.tr3visan@...>
wrote:


Hello Jim,

I owed and restored a 464 with DM44 (now given to a friend) and I don't
think there are any other "optional" boards linked to the presence (or
absence) of the DM44.
The only optional boards that apply to the 464 / 466 are:
A. The optional DC inverter board (option 7)... That one can't co-exist
with
the DM44 (the inverter uses the same windings on the main transformer that
are
used to power the DM44).
B. The composite video Sync Separator (Option 5), which bears some
relation
to the A5 sync board and could explain some changes.

I did hear once, from someone of this group, there was two versions of
the
A5 Sync board... one that used the Tunnel Diodes, and another one which
used a
Custom Tek IC to discriminate the trigger edge.
I`m not sure, but maybe this is what the -01 means...
I've never landed my eyes, however, on a schematic of the latter, or a
later
manual that included both.

But regardless of this board versioning, It seems rather odd to me that
the
connections to the J6 are disconnected, and more so, that there is no
connection between the top and bottom side THROGUHOUT the board...
Moreover, there's nothing about the DM44 vs power to the A5 Trigger
board...
The DM44 takes its power from its own power supply and it's neither fed by
the
A5 board, nor the A5 board feeds it.
Yet, the only reason I can think of for the through hole plating is
missing
throughout the board is, either a mass murderer technician stripped them
off
by careless unsoldering, or yet, that it's a prototype board...
If it's the latter case, it could explain many things...
Maybe you can take a picture, post somewhere and link it here.

KRgrds,

Fabio

On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 11:40 PM, Jim Olson wrote:


I have a question about the A5 trigger generator sweep logic board
differences. I have two 466's with out the DM44 with the same trigger
board
670-3324-00 boards. I have a 464 with a DM44 with the 670-3324-01
board
and it
is vastly different from the 466 boards. All the DC voltage traces
from
J-6
are disconnected all the through holes are unsoldered so there is no
interconnection from top to bottom through out the board. There
appears to
be
no cable connection to the board from the DM44 to supply these?
The DM44 manual parts list's don't show that part number used for the
464/466
with the DM44 it shows the later 466 board and I can not find the
optional
boards listed in the service manuals listed in the DM44 one.
The installation sheets for installing the DM44's don't list different
or
optional boards used like the service manuals do?
So whats up with this bunch of missing info here!

Jim O




Re: 1L20 for $95 BIN - OREGON USA

John Griessen
 

Would it fit in a 561? Is there a plugin adapter for that purpose?


Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

On 06/08/18 21:03, Roger Evans via Groups.Io wrote:
Yes, mine has exactly the same tag with a chopped off bare solid core wire 1cm or so remaining! I thought about querying this on the groups just after getting my 1502 to work but there were no problems that seemed to be linked to it. Only problem I have is that my very cheaply made NiMnH battery pack does not retain charge too well.
Careful you don't overcharge the NiMH battery. There's a resistor that can be increased in order to reduce the average current. But beware that on startup it carries a significantly higher current for a second or so => have a wirewound (or similar) resistor that is tolerant to short-term overloads.

Amazingly you can still get suitable NiCd cells for a reasonable price, e.g.

I have one other 'loose end' wire on the 1502 which also puzzled me, what looks like it could have been an earth connection at the rear (TD end) of the strip line, but nowhere obvious that it might have linked to. My 1502 has a somewhat below spec rise time and I wondered if this could be linked to the missing earth connection.
Yes; I haven't bothered to investigate mine.


Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

Hi Tom, Roger

Thanks for the response(s) and yes, that is exactly the tag/wire I was worried about. A bit of tinned copper has been duly applied and all is running well. I can see that will be a (probably significantly?) lower impedance than the >6 inch long drooly single crimp ground connection that it parallels!

The current drawn from the bench supply was about 240mA prior to the last failure and now sits happily at ~160mA and the 25V rail seems more stable too so I suspect that the recently failed Q6552 (feedback loop transistor) was on the way out as a result of whatever unpleasantness occurred to cause the battery negative wire insulation to go all cracked and crinkled.

Roger, I'll have a poke around the stripline tomorrow and let you know what I see in the way of grounding.

Thanks again,
Adrian

On 8/6/2018 9:49 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
If you mean right by the three coloured connectors mounted on the rear of the PSU board, then there should be a 1cm bare single core wire from the chassis' tag to the 0V PCB trace on those connectors.


Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

On 06/08/18 18:37, Adrian wrote:
Got to kick this habit! I won a 1502 TDR machine for really not a lot of $.
There's little point in fighting the inevitable. I have an inordinate fondness for 1502s - except for the PSU/ battery charger :(

I found another (different) dead transistor in the primary side of the LV PSU and that is now running again but although that may just have been a latent fault from whatever befell the poor thing in a previous life I want to check it a bit before firing up again.
Capacitors are an obvious problem. The axial tants on the PSU are OK until they aren't - I've had a couple emit sulphuric acid (on the 25V rails, IIRC - but see an earlier message of mine.

So the question: Although chassis, battery minus and 0V are electrically the same a lot of thought seems to have gone into the internal grounding/power returns of the various boards in this instrument, I presume to avoid ground loops and things, some boards don't have a '0V' wire back to the PSU but do have a chassis connection for instance and others the reverse. Given the history and crispy -ve wire evidence I want to check I am not sharing amps down returns I shouldn't and I see a large solder tag screwed to the top chassis cross-bar that has had a wire cut from it (next to a warning about the LV PSU board having 165V on it - and it has too, trust me!) but I can't see any wires floating in the breeze, does anybody who has one of these instruments know what should be connected at that
point?
If you mean right by the three coloured connectors mounted on the rear of the PSU board, then there should be a 1cm bare single core wire from the chassis' tag to the 0V PCB trace on those connectors.


Re: 1502 internal wiring question.

 

Adrian,

Yes, mine has exactly the same tag with a chopped off bare solid core wire 1cm or so remaining! I thought about querying this on the groups just after getting my 1502 to work but there were no problems that seemed to be linked to it. Only problem I have is that my very cheaply made NiMnH battery pack does not retain charge too well.

I have one other 'loose end' wire on the 1502 which also puzzled me, what looks like it could have been an earth connection at the rear (TD end) of the strip line, but nowhere obvious that it might have linked to. My 1502 has a somewhat below spec rise time and I wondered if this could be linked to the missing earth connection.

Regards,

Roger


Re: 464-466 w/dm44

 

Hello Jim,
The pictures did arrive correctly to me and I just posted the pictures to the Tekscopes photo section:
link is here:
/g/TekScopes/album?id=65983

As I already replied in PM to you, I'll repeat it here... This rather odd missing of the through hole plating of **ONLY** the power supply rails, to me, seems like an effort of a previous owner to isolate a short-circuit in the power rails.
Given the age of those scopes, it can very well have happened before this group even existed, and before it became common knowledge that this kind of problem is often caused by a shorted tantalum capacitor, and then the scope was tossed away for - say - 20 years.
I would suggest you take advantage that the through holes are stripped out, and try to measure ohms from each of those traces to ground, everywhere that you can follow them and, if you happen to find some spot that is showing low impedance to ground... you'd have probably found the culprit.
If you can't find any of those traces shorted to ground, I would just rebuild the through-hole vias and try to apply power to the thing.
As I mentioned earlier, I don't think the presence or absence of the DM44 is too involving, in regards to the A5 trigger board and, sure enough, it has nothing to do with this mystery of the missing vias.
The only there is between the DM44 & the A5 trigger board, is the pick-off signal from the ALT TRACE SYNC PULSE, from the emitter of Q916, shown on diagram <8> of the 464 and connected through a 20K resistor, from this transistor, to a wire and then to the DM44 through pin 2 of P3201, as shown on the DM44's service manual, diagram <3> "TIME & 1/TIME <3>" and diagram <9> "464,465 & 466 INTERFACE".
The latter is the signal that tells the DM44 the end of a sweep, to allow the DM44 to switch the delay time control voltage at the end of every sweep, between the scope's own Delay time multiplier pot, and the DM44's Delta time pot (and v-v) which, ultimately is what allows the measurement of TIME and 1/TIME.

Please let us know what else did you find on this board power rails.

KRgrds,

Fabio

On Sat, Aug 4, 2018 at 09:23 PM, Jim Olson wrote:


Hi Fabio I sent the picts in an email to you PM but comcast has changed there
email to a new system so I'm not sure if you got it or not.

Jim

On August 3, 2018 at 12:23 PM Fabio Trevisan <fabio.tr3visan@...>
wrote:


Hi Jim,

Feel free to send me the pictures (PM to fabio.tr3visan@...).
I will be glad to post it to the photos area of Tekscopes.io, and reply to
you with a link to the folder.
Rgrds,
Fabio


On Fri, Aug 3, 2018 at 03:07 PM, Jim Olson wrote:


Fabio I have the pictures but I'm not using any kind of photo posting
service
it's gotten to complicated and I don't post much to forums anyway so can I
send them to you and you can post them up?

Jim

On August 3, 2018 at 7:26 AM Fabio Trevisan <fabio.tr3visan@...>
wrote:


Hello Jim,

I owed and restored a 464 with DM44 (now given to a friend) and I don't
think there are any other "optional" boards linked to the presence (or
absence) of the DM44.
The only optional boards that apply to the 464 / 466 are:
A. The optional DC inverter board (option 7)... That one can't co-exist
with
the DM44 (the inverter uses the same windings on the main transformer that
are
used to power the DM44).
B. The composite video Sync Separator (Option 5), which bears some
relation
to the A5 sync board and could explain some changes.

I did hear once, from someone of this group, there was two versions of
the
A5 Sync board... one that used the Tunnel Diodes, and another one which
used a
Custom Tek IC to discriminate the trigger edge.
I`m not sure, but maybe this is what the -01 means...
I've never landed my eyes, however, on a schematic of the latter, or a
later
manual that included both.

But regardless of this board versioning, It seems rather odd to me that
the
connections to the J6 are disconnected, and more so, that there is no
connection between the top and bottom side THROGUHOUT the board...
Moreover, there's nothing about the DM44 vs power to the A5 Trigger
board...
The DM44 takes its power from its own power supply and it's neither fed by
the
A5 board, nor the A5 board feeds it.
Yet, the only reason I can think of for the through hole plating is
missing
throughout the board is, either a mass murderer technician stripped them
off
by careless unsoldering, or yet, that it's a prototype board...
If it's the latter case, it could explain many things...
Maybe you can take a picture, post somewhere and link it here.

KRgrds,

Fabio

On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 11:40 PM, Jim Olson wrote:


I have a question about the A5 trigger generator sweep logic board
differences. I have two 466's with out the DM44 with the same trigger
board
670-3324-00 boards. I have a 464 with a DM44 with the 670-3324-01
board
and it
is vastly different from the 466 boards. All the DC voltage traces
from
J-6
are disconnected all the through holes are unsoldered so there is no
interconnection from top to bottom through out the board. There
appears to
be
no cable connection to the board from the DM44 to supply these?
The DM44 manual parts list's don't show that part number used for the
464/466
with the DM44 it shows the later 466 board and I can not find the
optional
boards listed in the service manuals listed in the DM44 one.
The installation sheets for installing the DM44's don't list different
or
optional boards used like the service manuals do?
So whats up with this bunch of missing info here!

Jim O



1L20 for $95 BIN - OREGON USA

 

ITEM NUMBER 173454897871



ROLYNN