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Hi Dieter,

Thanks to Fabio's detailed and clever reasoning (you're very gifted Fabio), I
have found the issue with the Alt mode. The problem turned out to be a
defective U4391 (74LS02) that can be found on diagram 8 (Horizontal Display
Logic A&B Sweep Generator). When measuring pin 3 on this IC there was no
change in state (stayed low) when operating the ALT button in the "Horiz
display" section on the front control panel (after checking the switch first).
Replacing this IC from a butchered 465B restored the Alt mode and the scope
now reliably displays two traces :)

Note that your problem might be caused by a different component failure or
break in the Vert Alt Sync path, but if you follow Fabio's excellent
diagnostics, you will find the problem. Good luck, and another big THANKS to
Fabio, I owe you a drink!

Regards,

Edward Thomas.

Thanks Albert, you are of course right that I don't have a good grasp of even
the basics. Your posts do help. But I've had enough of this project.

I didn't even want a 465- I wanted a 465B but haven't been able to find one
locally and hesitate to buy one online. If anyone here on the forum can sell
me a good working 465B within a few hours driving distance of Louisville KY
then please PM me.

I will mention that a few years ago Albert, Raymond, David Hess, Ed B., Tom
Miller, Hank, and a few others did help me fix the 465B I had at that time- it
too was a long drawn out discussion, but ultimately together we got it working
and I used it for a few years until I lost everything in my divorce...

Thanks for everyone’s help, this is really a friendly and fascinating group.
At some point in the near future I will post for selling or parting out the
465 and the 464.

Keith Ostertag

From: "machineguy59 via Groups.Io" <machineguy59@...>

Menahem,
Any slight offense is in the past, lets go forward. ?

My goal here is to "first do no harm" then to payback for the help I have received from others.? I don't usually speak up right away, instead giving time for more experienced scope technicians to lead the way.? But I am very experienced with a wide technical base.? Like you I repaired radios and TVs (in the 1960's for me) and was appalled at the corners some manufacturers took to save a few cents.? After graduation from college (1963), I worked for the old Bell Telephone Laboratory, then Collins Radio (both quality minded, high technology organizations).? During my career I worked on the Nike anti-missile system, the first GPS receivers, auto-pilots, cockpit flight instruments, and many other avionics products.? I sometimes consulted for Rockwell International on computer matters.? If you ever ride in a Boeing airplane your pilot uses instrument displays done by the organization I lead.? The Tektronix 24xx series of oscilloscope was everywhere during those working years.? Often even in the conference rooms.? At one time, as Director of Engineering for Air Transport, I authorized purchase of 75 of them in one year.? I tell this story to better introduce myself and to validate my statement that I, too, seek quality in our work.

I think your goals for a perfect (or near perfect) BOM are admirable and I encourage you to lead that effort.? I will contribute when able and when my contributions are helpful.? But perhaps we should consider that some users are unable to source all parts or from all vendors.? At one time, the list I posted included part numbers from Mouser as well as Digikey so they could be ordered form either.? But it was tedious to keep up, especially when some parts are not available from both vendors.? And my goals do not prevent part substitutions when the perfect part is difficult to source.

Finally, what capacitors do you advise to use on the 24x5B A5 board?? I am now repairing my second one and need to make choices for at least the electrolytics.? Both boards I have are missing pads from missing electrolyte leakage.? I clean the boards and replace the pads.? But if I replace the capacitors with electrolytic caps it is certain they will fail one day and it is certain they will further damage the board and my replacement pads are not as robust as the originals.? I see one seller of rebuilt A5 boards uses tantalum electrolytics.? But tantalums are notorious for failure unless significantly de-rated for voltage.? For now I have used electrolytics but have started a plan to change them out for tantalums, derated 2:1 or more.?
? ??
On ?Monday?, ?June? ?18?, ?2018? ?01?:?54?:?55? ?AM? ?CDT, M Yachad <yachadm@...> wrote:

Hey Ron

Nice to get to know you! Thanks for telling us your story.
I understand your dilemma with your wife - we all empathize, even if we won't admit it as candidly as you did ;-)

I had no intention to deprecate, even if if it came across that way, and if I offended you, please accept my apology.

My purpose here is to build an iron-clad 2465 BoM, which will offer ALL users (experienced or not) an optimal long-lasting solution which will not require subsequent intervention under the cover again in our lifetimes.
In short, bringing together ALL our combined knowledge to provide an expert community solution.

I would not be writing all this, if it was not for all your help, because 9 years ago, when I started out on this journey and overhauled my own 2465B, I had no idea where to start, or which parts to select. All I knew was audio and linear PSU's. Only by asking these questions on this forum, was I able to get the info I needed, to do this once-only-required overhaul.

Today, SMPS overhaul (especially in TV's) is a substantial part of my workload, and I have built up my knowledge base substantially, regarding which component types are suited best in which areas of the circuit. I normally go through a few hundred capacitors every month, in these repairs.
So, I bring that acquired knowledge back to the forum, as a form of gratitude.

9 years later, the 2465B is still operating flawlessly, except for 2 problems (unrelated to the overhaul) - U700 failure, and a diode failure.
Solved quickly and painlessly, with the help of the generous people here.

I expect to pass all my lab equipment onto my middle son, aged 17, who is the only one of my 4 children who shows any serious interest in my work. With the maintenance I do on my equipment, I expect it to last 30 years for him as well.

Regarding suppliers, when approaching a project like this, I have learnt to not skimp, and if I have to source the optimal BoM from more than one supplier, then the small additional shipping cost (from the 2nd supplier) is peanuts, when figuring in the 20-30-year lifetime of a job done perfectly, not requiring any redo's in the future.

I use both Mouser and Digikey, but for the 2465 kits, Mouser offers me the parts I want, and also cheaper than Digikey by a few $ for this particular selection. So that extra $1 which you may pay Mouser for shipping, you'll probably save on individual parts costs.

Ancel,
I have used Nichicon PJ in the past as well - I have no aversion to them at all - and I normally use Nichicon PW (a tighter-tolerance brother of PJ) as my #1 choice.
That preference was based entirely on the datasheet specs, I did no comparison testing at all.

Menahem

I am looking for one B1107, 'Power On' indicator bulb, for the Tektronix 453 that I am trying to fix. The Tek part number is 150-0045-00. Does anyone have one that they would like to sell me or can anybody suggest a place to buy a replacement? The bulb appears to be a custom built bulb and may be pure un-obtainium.


=====================================================================


Remove the bulb from the green lens assembly and look at the side of the bulb base.

The industry number or CM number is embossed in, or applied, to the metal base.

It is a common bulb.
150-0045-00

Rolynn
Tek Bvtn and Sunset 1966-1971

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of JJ
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 4:52 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Self Governance of TekScopes.

I would think that it's the moderator's responsibility and no one else
(elders or otherwise) to filter the various threads. There are certain
topics that are completely off topic like politics and should be
cutoff.
But, there are others that are technical and very informative which are
gleaned from years of experience that allow us to pick up information
that is very helpful. I welcome those. So, you need to have a jeweler's
eye!

John Justin

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 1:17 AM, Jeff Urban <JURB6006@...> wrote:

Bit odd you bring this up now when I just got through posting in a
thread about 2 sided boards, and that went into some other things. My
experience, someone else about car radios using the same

manufacturing

methods and all, one with their own stereo unit the fixed by fixing a

2 sided board.

Now there's some thread drift forya, but it is still pertinent to the
subject. Of course WW2 is not. I have a group and I was thinking what
I would do. I would probably get in there and say "this one can

slide,

but anymore of this political shit and we are talking action, I do

not

want it here". And that it makes enemies easier than it makes

friends.

But now there is the Fluke 3300 thread. That is not a Tek scope. I
have no problem with it, I think maybe they could have been spurred

on

to my group but there are not enough members now to be sure to get
anything good back. If that is close enough to on topic fine. Good
that you don't want to stifle.

I think the thing here is that in moderating these, you can't just
grind a line into concrete. That's why we have human moderators. (and
judges and
whatever)

You could send some to my group, which I made specifically for other
test equipment. But I don't want anyone forced. I don't want to force
anyone to do anything. Not the WW2 thing though.

Put it this way, I may respond in threads that go political, but I
will never start one. I have more respect than that.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of JJ
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 4:52 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Self Governance of TekScopes.

I would think that it's the moderator's responsibility and no one else
(elders or otherwise) to filter the various threads. There are certain
topics that are completely off topic like politics and should be
cutoff.
But, there are others that are technical and very informative which are
gleaned from years of experience that allow us to pick up information
that is very helpful. I welcome those. So, you need to have a jeweler's
eye!

John Justin

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 1:17 AM, Jeff Urban <JURB6006@...> wrote:

Bit odd you bring this up now when I just got through posting in a
thread about 2 sided boards, and that went into some other things. My
experience, someone else about car radios using the same

manufacturing

methods and all, one with their own stereo unit the fixed by fixing a

2 sided board.

Now there's some thread drift forya, but it is still pertinent to the
subject. Of course WW2 is not. I have a group and I was thinking what
I would do. I would probably get in there and say "this one can

slide,

but anymore of this political shit and we are talking action, I do

not

want it here". And that it makes enemies easier than it makes

friends.

But now there is the Fluke 3300 thread. That is not a Tek scope. I
have no problem with it, I think maybe they could have been spurred

on

to my group but there are not enough members now to be sure to get
anything good back. If that is close enough to on topic fine. Good
that you don't want to stifle.

I think the thing here is that in moderating these, you can't just
grind a line into concrete. That's why we have human moderators. (and
judges and
whatever)

You could send some to my group, which I made specifically for other
test equipment. But I don't want anyone forced. I don't want to force
anyone to do anything. Not the WW2 thing though.

Put it this way, I may respond in threads that go political, but I
will never start one. I have more respect than that.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Urban, > Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2018 10:17 PM

Bit odd you bring this up now when I just got through posting in a
thread about 2 sided boards, and that went into some other things. My
experience, someone else about car radios using the same manufacturing
methods and all, one with their own stereo unit the fixed by fixing a 2
sided board.

Now there's some thread drift forya, but it is still pertinent to the
subject. Of course WW2 is not. I have a group and I was thinking what I
would do. I would probably get in there and say "this one can slide,
but anymore of this political shit and we are talking action, I do not
want it here". And that it makes enemies easier than it makes friends.

But now there is the Fluke 3300 thread. That is not a Tek scope. I
have no problem with it, I think maybe they could have been spurred on
to my group but there are not enough members now to be sure to get
anything good back. If that is close enough to on topic fine. Good that
you don't want to stifle.

I think the thing here is that in moderating these, you can't just
grind a line into concrete. That's why we have human moderators. (and
judges and whatever)

You could send some to my group, which I made specifically for other
test equipment. But I don't want anyone forced. I don't want to force
anyone to do anything. Not the WW2 thing though.

Put it this way, I may respond in threads that go political, but I will
never start one. I have more respect than that.