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Re: Repairing plated through holes.

stefan_trethan
 

I have seen photo instructions for multilayer repair work that
involved carefully removing the outer layer to gain access to the
inner pad.
It was pretty insane. Bodge wires for me any day.

As for setting the eyelets, I set somewhat larger hollow rivets quite
often to mount TO220 transistors.
In production they have a press, but I just use a regular center punch
and a hammer to flare out the end, then flatten it down with a hammer.
This makes a flat head, not a rolled head, for which you need a hollow
ground tool, but it is very easy to do.

One thing you might want to keep in mind is solder needs a gap to penetrate.
If you set the rivet very tight you will not get solder under the
head, just around.
For a short time those eyelets were used instead of vias, with no
soldering, and I was told they were incredibly unreliable.
I think I would just put the eyelet in and solder both sides, without
setting it at all, or at most flare the end to 45 degree, to avoid
that danger.

ST

On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 7:37 AM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:


You could likely make one. You'd need something for an anvil, could
easily be made from a 4mm or so rod, put a handle on it. The "hammer"
part could be made from an automatic center punch with a different
punch part. They're made to be removed. You'd want a design that
curled the end of the rivet over.

Note that eyelets work best if they are either solid copper, or tinned
copper. I'm not sure that any other variety would even accept solder.
Also, you may have to drill out the hole a bit if you are trying to
get the same inside diameter. A third (and slightly fatal) problem is
that I can't see any way to make this work on multi-layer boards.
Double sided is the most. It could hold down lifting foil on a single
sided board, also.

A little lathe work (if you have one) and it might just come together.

Harvey


Re: Repairing plated through holes.

 

On Fri, 15 Jun 2018 20:33:52 -0700, you wrote:

On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 08:17 pm, Mark Goldberg wrote:


Do a search for "eyelet plated through hole" and you will find eyelets
designed for that purpose. I do not know what kind of tooling they may or
may not require. I have also used just a piece of wire bent through the
hole and onto the pads on two sides, but that is not the "official" method.

Regards,

Mark

I see the eyelets on mouser are cheap. What im really wondering about is the staking tool and which one to get.
You could likely make one. You'd need something for an anvil, could
easily be made from a 4mm or so rod, put a handle on it. The "hammer"
part could be made from an automatic center punch with a different
punch part. They're made to be removed. You'd want a design that
curled the end of the rivet over.

Note that eyelets work best if they are either solid copper, or tinned
copper. I'm not sure that any other variety would even accept solder.
Also, you may have to drill out the hole a bit if you are trying to
get the same inside diameter. A third (and slightly fatal) problem is
that I can't see any way to make this work on multi-layer boards.
Double sided is the most. It could hold down lifting foil on a single
sided board, also.

A little lathe work (if you have one) and it might just come together.

Harvey


Re: S6 Sampling Head Bridge Cavity Question

Craig Sawyers
 

I see now that I have been stuck in an endless spiral of screw-ups of my own making. Fixing them has
certainly kept me busy most of my life. But every once in a while I surprise myself by doing
something
really astounding (at least to me) and I think all this stuff I learned had a purpose.

Dennis Tillman W7PF
Hey - don't beat yourself up Dennis. The head might not be bust, there might still just be a duff
connection.

You didn't do something really stupid, like me when I plugged a harmonica connector one pin out on the
power supply of my 577 curve tracer (unplugged originally to find a dead tant). Blew up most of the
silicon in the thing.

I've now got it pretty much sorted, other than one remaining problem with either the step generator or
amplifier. Real nightmare to sort out. Rather fortunately every piece of silicon was easily available,
and socketted - even the dual FETs, which are still made.

Craig


Re: Repairing plated through holes.

 

Actually, IPC-7711 does allow a repair of a two sided board or a
multi-layer board with no internal layer connections at the hole with a C
or Z shaped wire as I have done. If you can get a copy, look at plated hole
repair procedure 5.4.

I have seen eyelets used but I do not know what the tooling was that was
used. It looked expensive.

Sorry, can't be of more help.

Regards,

Mark






On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 8:33 PM, lop pol via Groups.Io <
the_infinite_penguin@...> wrote:

On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 08:17 pm, Mark Goldberg wrote:


Do a search for "eyelet plated through hole" and you will find eyelets
designed for that purpose. I do not know what kind of tooling they may or
may not require. I have also used just a piece of wire bent through the
hole and onto the pads on two sides, but that is not the "official"
method.

Regards,

Mark


On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 7:28 PM, lop pol via Groups.Io <
the_infinite_penguin@...> wrote:

I would like to affordably put together the things needed to repair
plated
through holes. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm asking because I dont
want
to buy this more than once. My pocket has not much room for mistakes
right
now and i seem to do a lot better asking here before buying. Thanks
guys



I see the eyelets on mouser are cheap. What im really wondering about is
the staking tool and which one to get.




Re: Repairing plated through holes.

 

I would like to affordably put together the things needed to repair plated through holes.
========================================================

My first position at Tektronix was in Plant 2 Test-Final. I received an authorization from my manager to repair an ECB with a damaged thru-hole.

I used an eyelet from the company switch repair kit and simply soldered both sides without any use of an 'eyelet tool' to flare the end.

It worked out fine and saved the ECB.

For my own personal use I ordered eyelets of various sizes from Mouser to repair ECBs and rotary switches.


Rolynn
Tek Bvtn and Sunset 1966-1971


Re: Repairing plated through holes.

 

On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 08:17 pm, Mark Goldberg wrote:


Do a search for "eyelet plated through hole" and you will find eyelets
designed for that purpose. I do not know what kind of tooling they may or
may not require. I have also used just a piece of wire bent through the
hole and onto the pads on two sides, but that is not the "official" method.

Regards,

Mark


On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 7:28 PM, lop pol via Groups.Io <
the_infinite_penguin@...> wrote:

I would like to affordably put together the things needed to repair plated
through holes. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm asking because I dont want
to buy this more than once. My pocket has not much room for mistakes right
now and i seem to do a lot better asking here before buying. Thanks guys



I see the eyelets on mouser are cheap. What im really wondering about is the staking tool and which one to get.


Re: Repairing plated through holes.

 

Do a search for "eyelet plated through hole" and you will find eyelets
designed for that purpose. I do not know what kind of tooling they may or
may not require. I have also used just a piece of wire bent through the
hole and onto the pads on two sides, but that is not the "official" method.

Regards,

Mark


On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 7:28 PM, lop pol via Groups.Io <
the_infinite_penguin@...> wrote:

I would like to affordably put together the things needed to repair plated
through holes. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm asking because I dont want
to buy this more than once. My pocket has not much room for mistakes right
now and i seem to do a lot better asking here before buying. Thanks guys




Re: Tek 2236 repair, I don't believe it is the PS. Dented. Found a cut trace near U504. Thoughts?

 

The last time I responded here, my additional info got posted on its own. I'm not familiar with this interface, sorry. I don't know what I did wrong. I'll repost my last comment here in an attempt to keep things in one place, if that is even possible, then add my update.

Is there any evidence that the intensity control on the front panel was bashed?

None. In fact those controls do seem to change the display with the beam finder pressed. The only button or knob which I've noticed feels like there might be any aging involved is the "¦¤ time position" knob on the CTM. That has a lot of play in the pots.

For interested bystanders, I found the manual here
I think the cut trace was done at the factory. Details for anyone interested: P252 of the manual says U504 and R525 are part of the A sweep generator and logic circuit. The cut trace going in to U504 goes to pin 12. That trace comes from the emitter of Q576 on one end, and a voltage divider R526 off of the -8.6 rail on the other. I have continuity to both. The cut part of trace goes to CR583, but that is run from U506A. So that is not the problem, unfortunately.

The trouble-shooter p.290 suggests:
Checking -2kV
I have no idea how to test for -2kV without lighting myself up :/
It also suggests adjusting internal grid bias. I didn't try that yet.
Check TP842 for z-axis ublanking pulse of 10-60V P-P
I couldn't find that TP because I transcribed it incorrectly as TP482. I'll check that when I can. Maybe Saturday.
Check R707 for the 12V P-P sweep sawtooth for possible problem with A sweep generator or logic fault
I can't find R707 anywhere. I don't believe my revision has a R707. I'll try to just find the equivalent of that point from the diagrams.
Check CRT H deflection pins for 40V P-P on each lead, if not, suspect H amp or Sweep switching
if H deflection pins are OK then troubleshoot Z-axis and CRT circuits

Not a lot of news there but I wanted to get back to you. Thanks!!

UPDATE!!**
I was getting some test readings when the unit started working. After a lot of tapping and looking around I found some connections without any solder on the side of the board with traces. The only connection which read open was on R751 but many were suspect. I soldered at least one end of 17 components. The list available if anyone might find it useful. I then got a trace without using the beam finder but the trace was only intermittently full width. I was still plagued by an intermittent open. If I pulled on the main circuit board under the CRT, in the vicinity of U130, then I consistently got a full width trace. More poking and hair pulling revealed that the inner H wire was not really connected to the CRT tube. After attaching that the unit seemed to work.
Yeah!

I don't know if it was a combination of things or if the beam finder allowed enough capacitive coupling to the H grids. Either way, any issues which might remain will be in a whole new ball park, so if this is a forum where mods close finished topics, it is ripe.
I appreciate the input! Thanks.


Re: What removes vinyl plasticizer stickyness on cabinets?

 

For a time the problem can be held in check by mopping up the leaching with powders. Corn starch, talc. It looks bad but can help prevent damaging clothing or cross contamination. Once it gets bad enough then I attempt to strip the coating but I agree with others here, no solvent seems appropriate. I wonder if that cleaner intended to remove the waterproofing goo from fibre optic cables might work. That goo is equally nasty.


Repairing plated through holes.

 

I would like to affordably put together the things needed to repair plated through holes. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm asking because I dont want to buy this more than once. My pocket has not much room for mistakes right now and i seem to do a lot better asking here before buying. Thanks guys


Re: let's bring this back to life Re: Tektronix 453 high voltage problem

 

well, that was overly optimistic - I'm back where I started - I replaced the caps, I tested the diodes (again) and I had HV and a trace for a bit, but the intensity and focus didn't work, so I dug around a bit, found a wiring error, fixed it, and I've got nothing. when it was "working", the drive transistor (Q930) drew about .25 to .3 amps from the 12V supply. After fixing it (so to speak), I don't have a trace, the -1950 volt bias is gone, and the current wanders around from 1/2 amp to about 1.8 amps (at which point I turn it off and let the transistor cool down). The transformer doesn't get hot, the caps don't get hot, and occasionally the neon lamps in the regulating circuit flash - so I'm going to put it aside for a while. If anyone wants to pick up from where I left off, drop me a note - if it was working they seem to sell for $200+, as a parts/not working scope it's got to be worth something, and I'd much rather get it to someone who will finish fixing it - I think it is otherwise working - I have gotten a valid trace and the controls seem to work


Re: Tektronix RAMS (Surplus) Store - Odd hours?

 

Not per se... It was just a case of curiosity, wondering if there were
some hidden reason.

But.. Thanks, Dennis. I figured you'd be the one to make the best
sense out of it.

On 15-Jun-18 09:35, Dennis Tillman W7PF wrote:
Hi Bruce,
I think what you really are asking is what I ask every time I am going down to Beaverton: "why can't the Country Store be open when it is convenient for me because I happen to be in the area."

I think the answer is obvious. The store loses money. Being open twice per month is all they need to satisfy their regular customers (Ex-Tek employees) and just about everybody else.

Tek isn't interested in dealing with walk-in traffic for lots of reasons:
1) There is no reason to be open more often. If you are there on one of those days you would see there is only a very small group of people waiting to go in and they are mostly Ex-Tek people. So there is no reason to add more hours.
2) It is expensive to be open. You need someone (two people actually) to keep an eye out for people stuffing their pockets with small parts that have significant value.
3) Walk-in customers are a pain in the ass. I know because I am one. I will automatically ask them to lower the price enough on something I want so I can buy it.
4) Online sales via Ebay or whatever else they use are more cost effective because they can list big ticket items there.

Dennis Tillman W7PF
"Quando Omni Flunkus Terra Retreatum"

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Lane Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 8:26 AM

Fellow Tekkies,

I've gotten curious about the rhyme or reason to the RAMS store's
limited public hours (two Thursdays a month, less than half a day).

Thoughts on this?

Thanks much.

--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR

kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)

--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR

kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)


Re: S6 Sampling Head Bridge Cavity Question

 

Hi Craig, Dave, and H?kan,
I failed to follow my own advice and RTFM before I took the sampling bridge cavity apart. I knew when I was debating to do this that I might be in over my head but all the previous things I tried up to this point convinced me that there was nothing unusual to a sampling head after all. So confidence gave way to cockiness when I should have stopped and read the manual to at least know what to expect. If I look back on my life it has been filled with similar behavior. There are two possible outcomes: 1) I admit that I broke it (whatever it was) and I have to face the consequences, or 2) I have an "Oh Shit" moment followed by a desperate scramble to first figure out what happened and then I start a desperate search for a solution.

On balance I usually succeed when I am fortunate that option 2 is available to me. In the process of searching for a solution I learn a huge number of things that, until that moment, didn't seem very important to know. Many of those become very useful later on for avoiding the same problem twice. But there is a curious side effect of learning all the things which is to increase my overall confidence level. This makes it more likely that I will fail the next time to RTFM before I take the next thing apart.

I see now that I have been stuck in an endless spiral of screw-ups of my own making. Fixing them has certainly kept me busy most of my life. But every once in a while I surprise myself by doing something really astounding (at least to me) and I think all this stuff I learned had a purpose.

Dennis Tillman W7PF

-----Original Message-----
From: zenith5106 Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 4:09 AM

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 11:42 pm, Dennis Tillman W7PF wrote:


I have absolutely no idea how you tell when either of the two output
barrels are touching the substrate. The only way I think Tek did it
was by applying strobe signals and monitoring the output on the
center
conductor of the barrels. As I turned them I kept hoping for some
change in resistance between the center conductor of the barrel and
the 5 pins that go into the cavity. I never got a reading of any
kind.
In the end I failed to get any output at all from the head when I
was done. It was dead.
Dennis,
This from a Maintenance Note from June 74:
//S-6 SAMPLING HEAD INTERMITTENT OUTPUT
In the past the S-6 Sampling Head has had an Intermittent problem in
the Hybrid Bridge Circuit.
The center conductor of the 3mm connector on the front panel connects
directly to the bridge sub-strate via a mechanical spring loaded
plunger. The Intermittent output Is caused by the plunger. Norm Farmer
of the Rockvllle Service Center has suggested a field fix which
entails cleaning the plunger. When you re-Install the spring and
plunger make sure the plunger is free enough not to bind up when
pushed all the way Inside the center connector, yet not so free that
it will fall out when you turn the connector upside down. This
practice insures that the center connector makes good contact with the
plunger. The front 3mm connector will be the only one you probably
will have to be concerned about. You will need a wrench to remove the
3mm connector. You can do this by increasing the width slightly of a
3/16th open-ended wrench The 3mm connector spring and plunger are not
shown In the S-6 manual. The part number for the spring is 214-1072-
00, and the plunger Is PN 131-0632-00.//

/H?kan
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Casey Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 12:17 AM

The input (loop thru) signals J10 and J12 are 10k from another pin, "O".
The output signals at 16k and a diode drop away from another pin ("J" ->-
J15 or J16 ->- "M"). I feel like this should be measurable with an ohm meter to see when you're making good contact, but I'm not going to find out the hard way that it doesn't work that way.

All the manual says is "The assembly female 3 mm coaxial connectors may be replaced by using a small wrench on the flat portion of the connector to remove and replace a connector from the assembly." (Page 5-1, second to last paragraph)

Dave Casey

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Sawyers Sent: Friday, June 15, 2018 12:11 AM

I have absolutely no idea how you tell when either of the two output
barrels are touching the substrate. The only way I think Tek did it
was by applying strobe signals and monitoring the
output on
the center conductor of the barrels. As I turned them I kept hoping
for some change in resistance between the center conductor of the
barrel and the 5 pins that go into the cavity. I never got a
reading
of any kind. In the end I failed to get any output at all from the
head when I was done. It was
dead.
Dennis Tillman W7PF
How did you check for a change in resistance, Dennis?

Craig



--
Dennis Tillman W7PF
TekScopes Moderator


Re: Help needed with no trace no beamfinder on 465 (not b)

 
Edited

Thanks for your continued help Albert. I _might_ be able to cobble together a power supply in excess of 100V... but I am not understanding what that will tell me, possibly because I am unsure of your use for the term leakage in this context. Since TP1486 is in the secondary side of T1420 (correct?) how can anything I do with it eliminate T1420 as a fault? For instance if T1420's primary (inline with Q1418) is shorted or partially shorted? At least that 's the question that comes to my mind, since I don't understand the circuit. What if L1419 is shorted or partially shorted? And how does that eliminate (or indicate) the HV multiplier as the fault?

Let's see... you are suggesting that I might "drive the collector winding from an external source" by adding a negative voltage to TP1486 (which is connected to the T1420's secondary), is that correct? So if I had a +200VDC power supply I would connect the +200V positive terminal to ground and the negative terminal to TP1486?

In the case I could obtain an power supply, where exactly would I measure the leakage current and what level would be the pass/fail amount? I assume you mean replace the fuse F1419 with an ammeter as I did before in order to measure Q1418's collector current?

My only guess is... by adding voltage to the secondary, a working primary must likewise increase, thus increasing the collector current. So... if it does not increase Q1418's collector current then that suggests a problem with L1419 or T1420 (or C1419)?

And if that is close to being correct as a strategy, then wouldn't slightly increasing the positive voltage at the fuse test it similarly? I say that assuming T1420's secondary is unlikely to have been damaged by anything I might have shorted in front of it...

Oops... rereading your message I see:"Then you could see at which frequency it resonates and how it responds to increasing primary amplitude.", which I somehow missed in the above...

Let me start over... Q1418's circuit drives the signal taken from Q1416 through T1420, multiplying it by whatever the turns ratio of T1420 is. You are suggesting I unplug Q1418 and replace it with a short? Then read the current through F1419? Not sure how we are to read a resonate frequency when we are not applying a sweep... Sorry, as you can see this is a bit over my head...


Re: My 422

 

Hi Jeff-
I have good news and will follow up later......I have mine running using TO-3 2n5881's only had little bits of time with all the other stuff going on.....I will post stuff and a run down when I get the pictures so I can add the links...
some of the issues were prior folks errors in the scope itself.
scope looking at itself.....hmmmm not sure if that would work ....give it a try! oh what about grounding issues? that could be a problem.
I think I have a picture of the base form ...it is on the camera 3 hours away along with all the rest of the pictures....
interesting on Muntz.....
Thanks
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð
PS are you near Teaneck , NJ? couple of old panel meters I would to be retrieved before they fgo to the land fill....

On 2018-06-15 11:53 AM, Jeff Urban wrote:
Hey Renee, I was just reading on sci.electronics.design about transistors degrading over time when they get alot of reverse Vbe. Actually they were talking about exceeding the rating or the transistor but how is that rating determined ? They obviously test it destructively and don't take 20 years to do it. So I think it possible that it could degrade even if the rating is not exceeded. Looking at the circuit, it might have quite a negative spike in the base drive.

I tried to measure the rise time but I am not 100 % sure of the scope. (one of the reasons I want the 422 running). I am not sure of the geometry, as in \_\ vs. /_/. I also made no attempt to measure the fall time when the transistor turns on. The Miller effect causes the rapidly falling collector voltage to get to the base and fight the base current. It also increases whatever negative spike.

Hmmm, just thought of something, I could use the 422 to cop the waveform from the 422. Why not ? It's not like trying to tickle yourself. It works well enough (once I get that filter in that poofed on me) to take waveforms in itself. The only time I guess you couldn't is trying to view a waveform in the same vertical channel you're using. But conceivably in channel one you could view channel 2 and vice versa. I want in the power supply, there should be no problem. I have alot more confidence in the Tek than my elcheapo daily driver scope. Eventually I am going to end up with a 7000 series, I can smell it. I think I can talk my buddy out of the 7603 if I get his 7834 up to snuff. But he has been too busy to do anything so, oh well.

Turn off time is most important with an inductive load, but turn on time is also important. I already measured the saturation voltage and it is low enough, at least by my (hopefully accurate) math. Turn on time is not as critical of course with the inductive load, but it does matter.

The design may be flawed. (the hell you say !) It is possible that at higher input voltage when the regulation is kicked in more, that the forward base current drops. I dunno, but it doesn't seem to be turnoff time, it doesn't seem to be the saturation voltage, when else could this dissipation be happening ? Leakage when off ? Well I see maybe what, 50 volts there ? Even at 10 mA that's only 50 mW.

I might just wire in a pair of 2SD427s I THINK I got and I do have a heatsink. you might want to try that with the 2N3055s. All you need is a piece of metal, a drill and for 50 measly volts you can use wax paper for an insulator, or use 2 pieces of metal and don't worry about insulation for now. I happen to have a bunch of heat sinks around but you don't want a 1,200 cm^2 thing for the test because the 422 doesn't have that. In fact the 422 doesn't even have any vent holes. It was designed to be rugged. A Tek rep told me years ago he saw one that had gone down a hill in a car rolling and it looked much better than the car. I also read that someone had grabbed one and slammed it hard on a table repeatedly and there was no damage. If ruggedness was their goal I guess they wouldn't want a spill or a few raindrops destroying their masterpiece.

And it is a masterpiece. Madman Muntz would be proud. Other than the power supply it only has I think 49 transistors in the whole thing, 3 nuvistors and a couple HV regulator tube. I think that on top of good engineering, Tek has had better CRTs. I think they make their own. Check out :



when you have spare half hour. And I was 7 years old at that time.

Muntz was a TV maker who used so few tubes that other engineers said there is no way in hell it could work. He is said to have walked around the prototype department and just remove parts from the units until they quit working. I think wiki has a page on him.


.


Re: Up to date capacitor list for Tek 2465A and 2465B scopes (2018)

 

Edit, the first sentence should read:I have updated the list to correct two errors in the last version, to accommodate Digikey change of part numbers, and to replace some Panasonic capacitors with equivalent or better Nichicon.

Seems I cant get anywhere near this list without making an error, lol.


Re: Up to date capacitor list for Tek 2465A and 2465B scopes (2018)

 

I am not a chemist.? Nor am I up to date on capacitor chemistry.? Its been 19 years since I reviewed electronic designs professionally.? Still, I am qualified to read and evaluate manufacturers specs.? I do not share this disdain for Panasonic, nor am I concerned about using electrolytic capacitors with higher than necessary Voltage ratings.? I am always careful about capacitance values since some of electrolytic capacitors are used for timing.? Still, in bypass applications I often use 2 times the OEM value or more.? My rationale is simple, it lowers the ESR (check the specs) and definitely lowers the ripple beyond that required by the OEM.
I understand that there is long lasting folklore that higher voltage ratings are bad somehow.? I fail to see how.? In the past the higher voltage rated caps would eventually lower (degrade?) their voltage ratings to match the circuit they were installed.? I don't think they do that nearly so much today but so what?? Why care if the voltage rating becomes less as long as it exceeds the applied voltage?? The only concern for us should be if ESR is low and stable throughout the capacitor life.? Todays higher voltage parts have less ESR than their lower voltage siblings and certainly less than the "older" parts with lower voltage ratings. ?To check this, I did some spec evaluation of the 330 mfd, 50 Volt capacitors I include in my updated list.? The 330 mfd, 50 Volt Nichicon?UHW1H331MPD I use is specified to have an ESR of 0.228 Ohms with no greater than 0.456 Ohms throughout its 10,000 hour service life at 105 degrees.? Its hard for me to see how that is not a great choice for anyone refreshing their scope.? BUT, the 25 volt version of that same capacitor (if it were available) has 0.29 Ohms with no greater than 0.58 Ohms.? Sadly, the 25 volt version of the Nichicon?UHW1H331MPD does not exist.? So I would use the Nichicon?UPW1E331MPD which has an ESR of 0.31 Ohms and a lifetime of only 5000 Hours.? A loss of 5000 hours life expectancy and an increase of nearly 50% in ESR.? Using a 160 mfd 25 volt Nichicon the ESR increases to 0.58 Ohm.? In fact, for the bypass service of the 2465B LVPS here are the choices and their ESR:? ? ? ? 1. 50 volt 330 mfd Nichicon UHW1H331MPD an ESR of 0.228 Ohms, lifetime of 10,000 hours.? ? ? ? 2. 25 volt 330 mfd Nichicon UPW1E331MPD? with an ESR of 0.31 Ohms, lifetime of 5000 hours.? ? ? ? 3. 25 volt 180 mfd Nichicon UPM1E181MPD6TD with an ESR of 0.58 Ohms, lifetime of 5000 hours.? ? ? ? 4. 50 volt 330 mfd Panasonic EEU-EB1H331 with an ESR of 0.34 Ohms, lifetime of 10000 hours.? ? ? ? 5. 25 volt 330 mfd Panasonic?EEU-EB1E331 with an ESR of 0.5 Ohms, lifetime of 10000 hours.? ? ? ? 6. 25 volt 180 mfd Panasonic EEU-FC1E181 with an ESR of 0.58 Ohms, lifetime of 2000 hours.
So, using only manufacturer specs, and abide your rules I am stuck with less lifetime, higher ESR, and higher overall ripple.? My first choice is the Nichicon?UHW1H331MPD with Panasonic EEU-EB1H331 as a reasonable, long life backup.? Both of them giving better performance and better lifetime than OEM.?
I understand that the old parts that we used prior to 2000 may of had different results.? A bag of those old parts would age and deteriorate much differently than todays parts.? I think this is obvious by the very fact that we are in the process of refreshing Tek scopes by replacing all those old caps.? I don't want to do what they did "back then".? I want to do what the specs say is the best choice today.? That is what I tried to do in my updated list.? I invite anyone to make other lists with other parts.? The more the merrier. ?
As always, constructive help and advice is always welcome.? I am no expert but still far from a bumbling fool.

On ?Friday?, ?June? ?15?, ?2018? ?07?:?29?:?29? ?AM? ?CDT, M Yachad <yachadm@...> wrote:

Chuck

¡°If you need some evidence to back my assertions, grab any old bag of electrolytic capacitors that have been sitting on the shelf for years, and measure the capacitance. They will all measure at the nominal value... after years of being operated at the extremely low voltage of 0V. ¡°

Not sure if you¡¯re trying to be funny, or if you¡¯re serious.

If you¡¯re serious, I think your comparison is irrelevant. Unless a capacitor is in a working environment, coping with heating and cooling cycles, you cannot compare it to a shelf model, no matter what voltage. And statistically, throwing a single bag of old undocumented caps into the ring here, is irrelevant.

¡°I have just such a bag of nichicons from a project where I overbought the caps. This was back in the 1970's. They all still read 2200uf +/- 10%.¡±

In the best case, it just goes to prove that Nichicon is still the right choice, today.

¡°But, alas, what you say is not true. It once was, back when electrolytic capacitors used rather caustic electrolytes that ate away the aluminum oxide dielectric layer, but that hasn't been the case for about 30 years.¡±

On the contrary, the low-ESR capacitors of today DO contain corrosive electrolyte.
Do I need to expound on the A5¡¯s damage?

Read up on Chemicon¡¯s recent hard lessons on their KYx KZx and LXx series, with the problems, and subsequent requirement to reformulate the highly corrosive electrolyte.

We only get to know about these problems, LONG AFTER the caps have been installed in the customer¡¯s machine, and he has paid for them.
So why not anticipate the problem, and plan for it?

Therefore, there is enough empirical evidence to support the postulation that the issue STILL exists today.
And I simply do NOT see this as a problem.
We can choose to ignore it, or we can choose to plan our BoM, with the knowledge that a poor choice may bite us in the future.
My way to deal with this exact issue, is to suit the capacitor voltage rating to the actual circuit voltage.
Is that such a difficult decision to make?
To me, it¡¯s simply preempting the possible problems which corrosive electrolytes cause.

It¡¯s a free world.
I choose the path of caution and reliability ¨C I have customers to answer to, and my hard-won reputation to uphold.

A man who¡¯s rebuilding his own scope can throw whatever he wants in there ¨C the only one he needs to answer to, is himself. And in that case, to him, this discussion is irrelevant.

¡°Just like it was fine when you specified 330uf 50V caps to replace both the 250uf 20V and the 180uf 40V caps in the power supply.¡±

You¡¯re right ¨C in my PDF, I did say that. I did not pay sufficient attention during my proofreading to differentiate. However, after that PDF was published, there was a lot of positive feedback on this forum, pointing out the errors and suggesting the changes which should be made. All of those changes are included in my ebay repair kit, which has sold nearly 200 units, the vast majority of them not on ebay.

¡°This isn't audio gear where you have to worry about how the end user might "feel" about your choice. You can use valid technical reasons.¡±

I¡¯ve been around much too long to give much thrift to what people ¡°feel¡± about my conservative way of life, much less to audiophools who chase after every new bottle of snake oil. My principle is ¡°First reliability, then sound¡±. Why? If the machine doesn¡¯t work, then what worth are all the salesman¡¯s promises on the superior sound which it is supposed to it deliver?

G-d bless you all for your input ¨C it¡¯s what keeps this forum alive and each of us learning more as we go along.

Menahem


Re: let's bring this back to life Re: Tektronix 453 high voltage problem

 

replacing the ceramic caps seems to have fixe it - the orange ones that your very nice picture
C940, 945, 946, and 952, 966 - I used .01 3KV ceramics - two in parallel, except for C945/946 which are two .015 in parallel so I just paralleled 3 of the blue caps. when I can figure out how to upload an image in association with this post, I'll post a picture


Re: Up to date capacitor list for Tek 2465A and 2465B scopes (2018)

 

I have updated the list to correct two errors in the last version, to accommodate Digikey change of part numbers, and to replace some Panasonic capacitors with equivalent or better Panasonic.? It is posted in the files section with the title " 2465B capacitor refresh list Updated June 2018.xlsx".? I hope it helps others to quickly find usable parts.? Take note that in some cases I use parts with significantly higher voltage ratings and/or capacitance values than OEM.? I believe this is acceptable and may be preferred in the cases where it is done.? I encourage those with other priorities to post their "better" list(s).? I also invite constructive comments or identification of errors in the list (I hope the error list is null, lol).

On ?Friday?, ?June? ?15?, ?2018? ?08?:?13?:?28? ?AM? ?CDT, Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

You didn't listen to what I said about the electrolyte.

Isopropyl alcohol does tremendous "corrosion" to a styrofoam
cup, but nothing to a piece of aluminum.

The corrosive, to copper, electrolyte in 105C capacitors makes
a mess out of copper, but does nothing to aluminum and aluminum
oxide.? An electrolyte can be corrosive to one material, and
totally benign to another.

Years ago, the electrolyte ate the aluminum oxide dielectric
layer.? This is why a capacitor from that era needed to be
reformed periodically if you wanted it to meet its nominal
specifications.? Today, capacitor plate material is precision
anodized in bulk form, wound up into a capacitor, and given a
highly electrically conductive electrolyte (low ESR) that does
not corrode the aluminum oxide dielectric deposited during the
anodize process.

You may have heard about the counterfeit electrolyte that
appeared in many electronic devices, notably computers, in
the late 90's.? This was a case of an electrolyte being used
that was not as noncorrosive as was necessary.

When you operate a modern electrolytic capacitor on lower than
its nominal voltage rating, it is not harmed, and it does not
change in any way.

Ever wonder why today's capacitors are so much smaller for the
same C x V product than were the capacitors originally installed
in the scopes?? The reason is the better processioning of the
aluminum plate material allows far fewer errors in dielectric
thickness, and the greatly improved non corrosive to aluminum
oxide electrolyte allows the manufacturer to use a lower voltage
safety factor than before.

Today's 25V capacitor is yesterdays 50V capacitor.

If the electrolyte was as corrosive as you imagine, my bags of
NOS capacitors would have all eaten away their aluminum oxide
dielectric and all be short circuit.? They are not.? They are
as good as the day they were made.? Electrolytic capacitors from
40-50 years ago would be long gone in similar circumstances.

You are limiting your choices based on imagined problems.

-Chuck Harris

OBTW, Nichicon of 1975 is a far different company from Nichicon
of 2018.? Dare we compare Tektronix of 1965 to the Tektronix of
today?? Neither company has any of the original founders, nor
their instincts for quality, involved today.



M Yachad wrote:
Chuck

¡°If you need some evidence to back my assertions, grab any old bag of electrolytic capacitors that have been sitting on the shelf for years, and measure the capacitance. They will all measure at the nominal value... after years of being operated at the extremely low voltage of 0V. ¡°

Not sure if you¡¯re trying to be funny, or if you¡¯re serious.

If you¡¯re serious, I think your comparison is irrelevant. Unless a capacitor is in a working environment, coping with heating and cooling cycles, you cannot compare it to a shelf model, no matter what voltage. And statistically, throwing a single bag of old undocumented caps into the ring here, is irrelevant.

¡°I have just such a bag of nichicons from a project where I overbought the caps. This was back in the 1970's. They all still read 2200uf +/- 10%.¡±

In the best case, it just goes to prove that Nichicon is still the right choice, today.
...


Re: Help needed with no trace no beamfinder on 465 (not b)

 

Hi Keith,
I'm sorry I couldn't quickly guide you to the fault location. Personally I can spend many many hours in finding a fault, and that as far as possible without desoldering components. But I also have the intention to use the equipment, though that often means to have still more equipment to test other Tek equipment...
You probably don't have the equipment to further test the transformer and secondary circuits. Now that Q1418 can be unplugged it becomes possible (without desoldering) to drive the collector winding from an external source. Then you could see at which frequency it resonates and how it responds to increasing primary amplitude.
One thing you could perhaps do. The HV test point showed just -70 V or so. So if something starts to leak at that secondary side, then it's likely beginning already at a rather low voltage. You could use any DC supply which can deliver say 100 V or preferably larger (arbitrary large doesn't harm) and apply the negative side to that HV test point, in series with a current limiting resistor. Now you can check the leakage current -- the only load should be formed by the focus circuit of about 30 M.
If this doen't indicate leakage then the suspects are reduced to multiplier unit and transformer.

Albert

On Fri, Jun 15, 2018 at 01:45 pm, Keith Ostertag wrote:


Thanks for correcting me Albert, I apologize for being so sloppy... I have
corrected the legend on that photo to read 10V/div after I rechecked. And you
are correct as well about my not having checked the dc bias on the first one.
On ac coupling it is pretty identical to before.

So, evidently there is no significant difference after exchanging the Q1418.

I'm wondering now what my next path should be. Unlike many of you on this
forum, I am not wanting to repair this for fun, but rather I want to be able
to use the scope, as I feel it would be a more versatile scope than the 2213A
that I'm using. But it seems we have gone over much of the circuit with little
gained. Another option for me might be to work instead on fixing my 464, but
it has the same problem (no trace no dot) and I don't need the storage
functionality. I might be tempted to swap the HV mulitplier or the T1420
transformer from the 464 to the 465, but that's a lot of work and there is of
course a fair chance the one or both of those are what's wrong with the 464-
and we haven't been able to narrow the problem down to those parts anyway.

And honestly... I have been so frustrated working on this (obviously above my
skill level, and it has taken many hours) that I am tempted to simply part
them both out so that I can get back to the projects I want to work on
(unrelated to fixing Tek scopes). If I decide to go that route, are there any
of you here that would like the parts? (easily mailed boards and whatever).

Advice?