开云体育

Check out the list on my web site at <www.reprise.com>

Is this correct spelling. I fails to load for me. I tried it several
time even cutting and pasting it directly from the email.


Best Regards,

Mark Gurries

---------------------------------------------------------
Promotor of the DCC Standard for Model trains.
Model Railroad Club and NMRA DCC presentations are at:

--------------------------------------------------------
Audio Enthusiast (Love SAE equipment)


----------------------------------------------------------

I finally got tired of tripping over an R7704 hulk I had
laying around. I decided to strip it down, and see if I
could find homes for the various parts.

If you have an R7704 (and I suspect 7704, but not 7704A)
and need some parts let me know. If I have it, I'll send
it to you for the cost of postage.

The unit didn't work well enough to test the CRT, but the
filament is good. Also, the HV supply appears to work; as
I was getting some arcing when I disconnected it after applying
power to see if I could get a trace on the CRT.

I did not save any of the metal frame except for the front
panel.

73

- Mark N1VQW

Michael Dunn wrote:

At 12:27 PM -0800 2001/3/06, Stan or Patricia Griffiths wrote:

Remember, don't handle the sampling diodes with your fingers. Grease from
you fingers will contaminate them and attempts to clean them with alchohol
have been only marginally successful. Also, don't chip the black paint they
are painted with since this will allow light to reach the junction and that
ruins them also. I don't know the exact nature of the failure of sampling
diodes due to exposure to light but I understand it is permanent. Many
sampling diode problems are related to improper diode handling techniques.
When a technician first hears he can't handle them with his fingers, he uses
his needle nosed pliers and chips the paint . . . then he realizes what those
special plastic tweezers that Tek used to ship with new diode sets are for .

Wow. I had no idea they were so fragile. I guess LEDs evolved
out of this technology...???

Not only are they fragile when handling them, they won't take much applied voltage
either. 1 volt is about the maximum size signal you apply to a sampling scope
before you exceed the dynamic range of the diodes. At about 5 volts, you destroy
them! Almost every scope has a "sampling diode destroyer" built right into the
front panel. It is called the "calibrator".

The second (vertically oriented) connector is for feeding digital information
to the 6R1 or 6R1A Digital Readout unit when the 3S76 is used in a 567

Cool. NOT on-screen readout I assume?! Nixies?

Yep, nixies. Both in the 6R1 and the 230. I have these instruments in my
collection and someday I will get around to restoring them, I hope.

Thanks for all the info Stan.

md

You are most welcome. It's my favorite subject . . . old Tek stuff.

Stan
w7ni@...

In a message dated 03/07/2001 12:30:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mdunn@... writes:

I don't know the exact nature of the failure of sampling
>diodes due to exposure to light but I understand it is permanent. Many
>sampling diode problems are related to improper diode handling techniques.
>When a technician first hears he can't handle them with his fingers, he
uses
>his needle nosed pliers and chips the paint . . . then he realizes what
those
>special plastic tweezers that Tek used to ship with new diode sets are

for .

Wow. I had no idea they were so fragile. I guess LEDs evolved
out of this technology...???

Where I was working in the mid 60s we had some of the first GE plastic
transistors. They were packaged in natural colored epoxy (translucent) and
were released as engineering samples before anyone realized that they were
light sensitive.

Later they came out with a silicon controlled switch in a glass package,
calling it a LASCS. I hooked one up to a battery and bulb and had an
electric lamp you could light with a match. By leaving a connection loose,
you could blow it out. Neat!

I wonder how the problem with the diodes could be non-reversable by
repainting them though (if the paint was opaque to IR).

Mike Csontos

At 12:27 PM -0800 2001/3/06, Stan or Patricia Griffiths wrote:

Remember, don't handle the sampling diodes with your fingers. Grease from
you fingers will contaminate them and attempts to clean them with alchohol
have been only marginally successful. Also, don't chip the black paint they
are painted with since this will allow light to reach the junction and that
ruins them also. I don't know the exact nature of the failure of sampling
diodes due to exposure to light but I understand it is permanent. Many
sampling diode problems are related to improper diode handling techniques.
When a technician first hears he can't handle them with his fingers, he uses
his needle nosed pliers and chips the paint . . . then he realizes what those
special plastic tweezers that Tek used to ship with new diode sets are for .

Wow. I had no idea they were so fragile. I guess LEDs evolved out of this technology...???

The second (vertically oriented) connector is for feeding digital information
to the 6R1 or 6R1A Digital Readout unit when the 3S76 is used in a 567

Cool. NOT on-screen readout I assume?! Nixies?

Thanks for all the info Stan.

md

Hi Michael,

I have made a few comments below:

Michael Dunn wrote:

Geez, somehow I've ended up with three 1GHz sampling plug-ins.

The 1S1 is semi-working after my restoration attempt. I don't
think it's fully happy with my Schottky GaAs subs...

I haven't ever tried this so you could be right . . .

Newly acquired is a 3S76 (2-chan!). Does anyone have a manual to
sell or partly copy?

Check out the list on my web site at <www.reprise.com>

Unfortunately, I think it needs a companion
3T77 to operate.

The 3T77 is one timebase that will work with the 3S76. You are right that
there MUST be a sampling timebase to operate with it. Others that will work
with the 3S76 are 3T77A, 3T4, 3T2, and maybe 3T5 or 3T6 (I have never tired
these with a 3S76 but I know of no incompatibility).

Otherwise it's in good shape. Maybe I'll harvest
some GaAs diodes from it!

I think the GaAs sampling diodes used in the 3S76 are the same as those used
in a 4S1 but I can't remember for sure. I would have to check manuals to be
sure. I know the ones in the 1S1 have different part numbers but maybe you
could make the 3S76 diodes work in a 1S1. That is another good idea worth
exploring.

Remember, don't handle the sampling diodes with your fingers. Grease from
you fingers will contaminate them and attempts to clean them with alchohol
have been only marginally successful. Also, don't chip the black paint they
are painted with since this will allow light to reach the junction and that
ruins them also. I don't know the exact nature of the failure of sampling
diodes due to exposure to light but I understand it is permanent. Many
sampling diode problems are related to improper diode handling techniques.
When a technician first hears he can't handle them with his fingers, he uses
his needle nosed pliers and chips the paint . . . then he realizes what those
special plastic tweezers that Tek used to ship with new diode sets are for .
. .

It has TWO connectors on the rear-panel in
a "T" layout, whereas the scope bay just has one. Does this require
a special mainframe, or is the second connector for testing or
something?

The second (vertically oriented) connector is for feeding digital information
to the 6R1 or 6R1A Digital Readout unit when the 3S76 is used in a 567
mainframe. It may also work to feed readout information to a 230 when used
in a 568 mainframe, but I have never tried that combination before. It
connects to nothing when used in a non-readout scope like a 561A or 564.

Or, is there a special cable or board that connects it to
the 3t77?

No. It doesn't connect to the 3T77. It connects to a 6R1, 6R1A, or maybe a
230 or nothing at all.

Also new -- a 7S14! A real beauty. Two channel, with timebase.
And..... It works :-) Mostly anyway. There's a bit of lumpy noise
in one trace, and the buttons are all pretty sticky. So, any
recommendations for cleaning and lubricating those 7000-series
buttons? Oh, I wouldn't mind a manual for this one either. Guess
it's time to build me some crude 50:1 or 100:1 passive probes! Oh,
the delayed timebase ring is also missing. I've seen a picture of
this - a rare example of really bad design from Tek as far as I can
see. The pointer for the delayed setting is on a ring just like the
main pointer, but smaller diameter. The 2 sweep knobs are normal
concentric ones, and said ring is attached to the "upper" knob by a
couple of fragile looking plastic ribs that travel down to it down
the sides of the main knob. Seems to me that the first time you
turned the MAIN knob a bit too violently, your fingers would tear off
those ribs!

I just haven't ever had a chance to spend any time with a 5S14 so I don't
know didley about it.

Michael Dunn
(the original ;-)

p.s., TekScopes continues to grow well. We have over 60 members now.
Soon it will be my most populous group. We should throw a party or
something.

I hope this helps some, Mike.

Stan
w7ni@...

I do have a the rear apron for a 2235 (actually, all from that series
seem to fit, 2215, 2235, etc.) and can swap for other parts, the blue
paint I got a while back from Tek for an astronomical price, and it
came in a bomb-proof container, shipped as "hazardous materials". I
don't recommend that route. However....all is not lost.

The paint comes in a can marked "Omni-Pak", and is identified as L61
Opex lacquer, L99XXL42, Tek Blue. it also says, Portland Commercial
#4383, and To Re-order, call (503) 249-0222. Try that! Should be a
LOT simpler.

We have loaded a huge number of Tek parts on line in the last month,
semis, pots, CRT's, and cross-ref data where available to our site.
Have a look here:


have a look if you have time.
regards,
walter

Geez, somehow I've ended up with three 1GHz sampling plug-ins.

The 1S1 is semi-working after my restoration attempt. I don't think it's fully happy with my Schottky GaAs subs...

Newly acquired is a 3S76 (2-chan!). Does anyone have a manual to sell or partly copy? Unfortunately, I think it needs a companion 3T77 to operate. Otherwise it's in good shape. Maybe I'll harvest some GaAs diodes from it! It has TWO connectors on the rear-panel in a "T" layout, whereas the scope bay just has one. Does this require a special mainframe, or is the second connector for testing or something? Or, is there a special cable or board that connects it to the 3t77?

Also new -- a 7S14! A real beauty. Two channel, with timebase. And..... It works :-) Mostly anyway. There's a bit of lumpy noise in one trace, and the buttons are all pretty sticky. So, any recommendations for cleaning and lubricating those 7000-series buttons? Oh, I wouldn't mind a manual for this one either. Guess it's time to build me some crude 50:1 or 100:1 passive probes! Oh, the delayed timebase ring is also missing. I've seen a picture of this - a rare example of really bad design from Tek as far as I can see. The pointer for the delayed setting is on a ring just like the main pointer, but smaller diameter. The 2 sweep knobs are normal concentric ones, and said ring is attached to the "upper" knob by a couple of fragile looking plastic ribs that travel down to it down the sides of the main knob. Seems to me that the first time you turned the MAIN knob a bit too violently, your fingers would tear off those ribs!

Michael Dunn
(the original ;-)


p.s., TekScopes continues to grow well. We have over 60 members now. Soon it will be my most populous group. We should throw a party or something.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Dunn | Surround Sound Decoder & Stereo Enhancer
Cantares | Self-Amplified Speakers, Test Equipment
74 George St. | Ambisonic Surround Sound CDs and Recording
Waterloo, Ont. | (519) 744-9395 (fax: 744-7129)
N2J 1K7 | mdunn@...
Canada |
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Rick,

Tek Blue Paint. I have a few spray cans of this stuff made up occasionally
at the same place that makes it for Tek. I sell it for $15 per can and one
can will do about 3 whole scopes (depending upon if you paint the inside
surfaces of the covers or just the outsides). If you are going to spray over
plastic, you can do it, but since the paint is lacquer, it tends to attack
plastic. You just do it quick and leave it alone . . .

Stan
w7ni@...

Rick Davis wrote:

Thanks, Stan. Yes, I did find your site. Excellent material and I have
posted a question or two on the Forum. Keep up the great work and expand the
site...especially the "Bench" area so us rookies can learn all kinds of neat
things to do with our 454's.
Terry

Stan or Patricia Griffiths wrote:

Hi Terry,

I don't know of any other groups like this one dedicated to Tek scope, but
you should look at my and Bill DenBeste's web page at <www.reprise.com> if
you have not seen it already. We have BIG plans for that site. All we need
is the time to implement them. Keep watching . . .

Stan
w7ni@...



terry.brown6@... wrote:

I need the rear plastic cover for a 2235.
Could swap other parts from a 2235 just to make it interesting (front
cover, handle, misc. circuit boards, components???) or Federal Reserve
notes if you insist.

Also, has anyone found a source for that magic blue paint they used on
the covers? I could use a can or two of that too.

Thanks
Rick
rdavis@...

I didn't realize this group existed...stumbled into it by accident.
Are there any other groups/reflectors for Tek scopes and probes?

Terry

Hello!

I need a tunnel diode to save my Tektronix 485... it is Tek part number
152-0177-002 (tunnel diode, 10mA +/- 0.5mA, 2pF)

Please, let me know if you can help me.

Thanks!

JOSE
----------------------------------------------------------------------
73 EB5AGV / EC5AAU - JOSE V. GAVILA
La Canyada - Valencia (SPAIN)

EB5AGV Vintage Radio Site:

European Boatanchors List:

I have a pair of Tek 502As (nice blue dual-beam, 1MHz, hi-sensitivity diff. inputs). One is the older style, with ceramic strip construction of the input amps. Space is tight, and I'm thinking of stripping this one for parts, unless someone wants to offer me a decent amount for it (manual can be included)...

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Dunn | Surround Sound Decoder & Stereo Enhancer
Cantares | Self-Amplified Speakers, Test Equipment
74 George St. | Ambisonic Surround Sound CDs and Recording
Waterloo, Ont. | (519) 744-9395 (fax: 744-7129)
N2J 1K7 | mdunn@...
Canada |
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Dear sirs,

Is anyone in the possession of Tektronix manuals and especially for the type 468?

Kind regards,
Zorrooo

I am looking for Tek part number 012-0403-00. This is the twin cable set for
the Tek 7D15 plug in. These are BNC to Sealectro cables. Either that or a
source and/or part number for the Sealectro plugs and I can make my own
cables.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Don

there are two up for bid on ebay right now! but there not cheap. Good luck,
Joe Passaro

This is to officially announce the posting of my RANT page. If you care, here's where to find it:




As the heading says:

Okay, I'm giving in to self-indulgent rambling. Here's my long-awaited list of Rants, Screw-Ups, Scams, Stupidity, and sundry Bad Things, for your amusement and my mental health. Sorry about the pictures. Only about 250K total...

md