ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: Curve tracer advice: RF instability.

 

On 11/28/2014 5:42 AM, r Krusell goran.krusell@...
[TekScopes] wrote:

Hi, if it is possible you can put 47 ohm resistors in series with
Base and collector and the instability will disappear.

r


A small ferrite bead also seems to work well, just slip it
over the base lead before inserting the part.
In a few cases you will need a bead on all leads.



Re: Curve tracer advice: RF instability.

Mark Wendt
 

On 11/28/2014 05:53 AM, magnustoelle@... [TekScopes] wrote:
Hello John,

nice to hear about your successful repair.

I can confirm that the well-known use of ferrite beads is an effective method to prevent oscillations.
This is why I have used plenty of them in my own adapter, see


I might have gone over the top with it, but the little "puppy" I have built can test 2N5160 transistors (with an Ft of 500 MHz or higher) without any oscillations.

Cheers,

Magnus
Magnus,

That's a heck of a nice adapter you put together there! Nice write-up too, and some very good pics to go with. I know what my next bench project is going to be. ;-)

Mark


Re: Relay for modern scope needed

 

I'm looking for help locating a replacement relay for my TDS5054.. It's the AC/DC select relay on the attenuator hybrid. It doesn't click, and there's leakage between the contacts.

It's a Fujitsu FTR-B3GB4.5Z. Everywhere I can find is either back ordered for months, or will only sell them in lots of 1000. I haven't been able to find any direct substitutes. I can't substitute anything with a different form factor because space is tight.
Hi Andy,

There's a few dealers showing stock here. Don't know if they have minimums, though.


It looks like Rutronik will let you adjust from 1000 to QTY1. Didn't check some of the others, but Verical won't sell 1.
Jay


Re: Curve tracer advice: RF instability.

 

Hello John,

nice to hear about your successful repair.

I can confirm that the well-known use of ferrite beads is an effective method to prevent oscillations.
This is why I have used plenty of them in my own adapter, see


I might have gone over the top with it, but the little "puppy" I have built can test 2N5160 transistors (with an Ft of 500 MHz or higher) without any oscillations.

Cheers,

Magnus


Re: Curve tracer advice: RF instability.

ö Krusell
 

Hi, if it is possible you can put 47 ohm resistors in series with
Base and collector and the instability will disappear.

ö


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Curve tracer advice: RF instability.

 

I recenlty bought and restored a 7CT1N and have just made a simple adaptor for transistor testing.

Whilst everything works fine with AF devices, the set-up seeems unstable when testing higher-frequency devices (Ft around 300 to 400MHz).

1. Is this a common issue, and
2. do Tek place suppression networks in their adaptors?

John


Re: 545 on Jackson Mi Craigslist

 

I think that the scope in that Craigslist ad is a 545A or 545B, not a 545.
If I recall correctly, the 545 has a plain black HORIZONTAL DISPLAY knob,
while the 545A and 545B have the 5x horizontal magnifier switch coaxial
with the HORIZONTAL DISPLAY knob.

-Kurt

On Thu, Nov 27, 2014 at 7:58 PM, Paul Amaranth paul@...
[TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> wrote:



Not associated with seller, etc ...

jxn.craigslist.org/ele/4779935275.html

--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Rochester MI, USA
Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows



545 on Jackson Mi Craigslist

 

Not associated with seller, etc ...

jxn.craigslist.org/ele/4779935275.html

--
Paul Amaranth, GCIH | Rochester MI, USA
Aurora Group, Inc. | Security, Systems & Software
paul@... | Unix & Windows


Re: Weird cursor problem on 2465 scope

 

Hi Siggi. Thank you for your suggestions about this problem.
Yes is mine 2445 oscilloscope back then, and was the only problem found on it. In my case also, the problem was .47uF ceramic cap MKP type.
As you know I am crazy with caps! Therefore entire A1 board removed (not so easy), and all caps replaced.
If I remember correctly many .22 uf caps also exist on the same board. But as I said before, all replaced.


Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics

 

Thanks that very kink of you

my email is alan_w_global@...


Re: 5103N filtercaps

 

Good Day,

I agree that replacing the el. caps is a lot of work, but it is certainly do-able.

Allow me to include a link to my own pictures, which show the replacement work I have made on a 5441 (similar to the 5103 family).


A friendly hint: Some supply connections are made "via" the electrolytics caps' packages. The solder slugs of the outer "aluminum can" provide these connections.
These connections need to be restored, if one uses modern electrolytic caps as replacements (as shown).

Cheers,

Magnus


I bought a 5113 that had one of the caps bad � almost open, but no leakage that I could see.

I was able to remove the cap using a diagonal cutter on one leg, and a carefully placed hacksaw blade (only) between the cap body and the circuit board. Once the body was removed, I removed the tabs from the circuit board with a regular soldering iron and solder wick. I don’t remember which polarity of the power supply was bad in this scope.

I found a much smaller Panasonic replacement cap from Digi-Key. The replacement has a pair of through hole radial leads, which needed to be bent outwards to fit the wider hole spacing on the board.

You scored well with the 5L4. They seem to be somewhat rare, or perhaps for users doing audio work, which does not have its frequency range growing as technology moves on, their old 5L4N continues to work fine, so they don’t end up in the surplus market.

Steve


Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics

 

Alan

I have several junked 475 main boards. I can photograph the top for you and e-mail you the pix.
Please give me an e-mail address where I can send them.

73 Tad WA1FQO tands13462 **a t** gmail. **d o t** com


Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics

 

In repairing and Re-capping a lot of 400 series scopes, I found that the
easiest and "cleanest way possible to remove the big filter caps was to cut
the leads to the board with dykes where possible and in some cases actually
destroy the cap to get at the leads to be cut. Once the caps are physically
are out of the way , THEN you can easily get at the leads still soldered in
the board with a solder sucker and braid and end up with nice clean
mounting holes without butchering the lands on the board. Today's caps are
far smaller and more efficient than the original "beer can" sized monsters
that were originally used, Make sure you pay attention to the positions and
orientations of the polarized leads on the original caps as well as the
ground traces so that the new caps can be installed in the same way

-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2014 8:07 AM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics





Hello all,
I do it differently. I'm not saying that this way is wrong or
anything. I just use a different approach. When I had my powered solder
remover I would remove all of the solder from the tabs and the pins.
Then I would straighten the bent tabs so that I could wiggle the cap
back and forth until it would come off of the board. Now I use solder
removing braid to perform the exact same operation. This is just the way
that I do it.
Thanks,
rich!

On 11/27/2014 6:43 AM, John Bosak johnbosak@... [TekScopes] wrote:

I would recommend against removing the main PCB. It is a major
undertaking and one is liable to damage other things in the process. I
removed all the caps using an oscillating tool to cut the tabs. Find
one on eBay here().
It is much easier using a power tool. I completed the process in 15
minutes. I have some pictures of the rear of the PCB where the power
caps are mounted and would be happy to share them with you if you will
send me your email address. I also have a connection check list so you
can confirm all tabs are connecting to their proper components.
John Bosak


Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics

 

Hello all,
I do it differently. I'm not saying that this way is wrong or
anything. I just use a different approach. When I had my powered solder
remover I would remove all of the solder from the tabs and the pins.
Then I would straighten the bent tabs so that I could wiggle the cap
back and forth until it would come off of the board. Now I use solder
removing braid to perform the exact same operation. This is just the way
that I do it.
Thanks,
rich!

On 11/27/2014 6:43 AM, John Bosak johnbosak@... [TekScopes] wrote:

I would recommend against removing the main PCB. It is a major
undertaking and one is liable to damage other things in the process. I
removed all the caps using an oscillating tool to cut the tabs. Find
one on eBay here().
It is much easier using a power tool. I completed the process in 15
minutes. I have some pictures of the rear of the PCB where the power
caps are mounted and would be happy to share them with you if you will
send me your email address. I also have a connection check list so you
can confirm all tabs are connecting to their proper components.
John Bosak


Re: Relay for modern scope needed

 

What about here? ;initiative_id=SB_20141127044242&amp;SearchText=FTR-B3GB4.5Z ;initiative_id=SB_20141127044242&amp;SearchText=FTR-B3GB4.5Z

I know, could be somewhat slow to receive, but compared to backorder times you've found, could be an option!
I've oredered a lot of item on that site; to italy they take 6-8 weeks with free shipment, way less with courier :)


Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics

 

I would recommend against removing the main PCB. It is a major undertaking and one is liable to damage other things in the process. I removed all the caps using an oscillating tool to cut the tabs. Find one on eBay here().
It is much easier using a power tool. I completed the process in 15 minutes. I have some pictures of the rear of the PCB where the power caps are mounted and would be happy to share them with you if you will send me your email address. I also have a connection check list so you can confirm all tabs are connecting to their proper components.
John Bosak

Sent from my iPhone


Re: Firmware upgrade tds series

 

Have you found the update disks? I'm also interested :)
Meanwhile i'm writing a software to extract current firmware from TDS410-420-460 scopes through rs232 debug port.


Re: TDS-420 SMPS

 

Sorry to resume an old thread, hoping to help.. I had the same startup problem on my TDS420 PSU; after a bit the psu would turn on correctly and continue to work until next day.
Next day the psu wasn't starting again; protection was kicking in every 1-2 seconds.
The main problem was caused from the overcurrent protection; even without load, the protection would kick in.
I've disabled the protection (risky, i know) and now it works correctly.
Let me know if you need more details.


Re: Relay for modern scope needed

 

You could try ringing Arrow and, using all your charm, ask for a sample?

John


Re: Slightly OT: Book about oscilloscopes in USSR

Stefan Trethan
 

In case the link does not work for you:
<>

Interesting to learn the premier USSR scope lab is behind some of the
faster Picoscope products.
Only recently I was on their website and surprised to see that they
have some serious gear (most USB scopes are just a joke).

ST

On Thu, Nov 27, 2014 at 6:36 AM, curbinap@... [TekScopes]
<TekScopes@...> wrote:
Found this link on the internet where you can download an interesting book about oscilloscope development in USSR. The book is titled <People.Years. Oscilloscopes>. It is written in russian (although Introduction is also in english), but has plenty of very interesting photos.
pdf in a rar file, approximately 13 MB.

<>

Regards,

Carlos




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------
Posted by: curbinap@...
------------------------------------


------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links