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Tek 7834 and plug-ins FS $75 in Fort Collins, CO.
Hi Folks,
? ?I have a friend who is offering a Tektronix 7834 storage oscilloscope for sale, $75, for pickup only in Fort Collins, Colorado. ?This is a scope I had her pick up for me but it turns out she had to move before we could figure out how to ship it to the East Coast. ? The scope works, though she did not have time to test beyond verifying a trace on the screen, but it looks like the CRT is good. ?It comes with a 7A18A vertical and 7B53A and 7B80 horizontal plug ins. ? If anyone is interested, her house is for sale too. ?I don't have any details but I suspect that reception of WWV is pretty good! ? Please let me know and I will provide a phone number so you can arrange for pickup. ? ? Thanks, ? Dan [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] NOT OT: manual for Kepco OPS-2000?
Ok, I'll try to offer $20 on the manual.
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My Unit is SN E71625 and has 10 jacks on the front panel. It's particular failure is a 20V ripple on the output with no input applied. The tube inside is a 8068. I see a bunch on ebay for $14.50 and up. More expensive than a typical tube, but not ridiculous. I bet they can be had at hamfests for much less. I see a lot of old electrolytics on the circuit board - silver axial types with rubber caps. Me previous experience with a low voltage Kepco supply of similar vintage is that they will all have to be replaced. They dry up. In your case, I'm a bit more worried - not pilot light (assuming the fuse is still good) probably means no voltage at the transformer. But that's just a guess without the schematic. I would check the transformer voltages (with care, given that one of them can produce ~~2KV) to make sure it's worth continuing. Dan On Monday, November 24, 2014 7:48 PM, "Michael Noone nleahcim@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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Re: 5103N filtercaps
Yes, as I recall, it's a real PITA to get at those caps. I think your option to add parallel caps may be best, if there's room to fit them and the extra wiring in there. If the old caps haven't already leaked, but are electrically open or high-Z, then I doubt they ever will leak - the guts are essentially disconnected from the outside world. They usually fail due to chemical disintegration of the tabs that connect the capacitor slug to the can or the terminal lugs. The actual cap element is often still like new inside, but disconnected.
Ed |
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Re: working 661
thank you both! Last night I had to jump it, but tonight it fired right up. I'll hunt down a replacement anyway. Some re-seating of internal connectors on the 4S1 got internal triggering working properly, channel 2 still needs some attention.
BTW: Kurt - my memory boards are valve-free, have 7 TO-92 transistors, 1 TO-39 dual transistor (maybe wired as a darlington pair?), and are on a PCB, ?1966. Serial of the 4S1 is 135. I'll post some pics. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] NOT OT: manual for Kepco OPS-2000?
Michael Noone
Daniel - that's about the age of mine as well. Can you confirm that yours
has ten jacks on the front, and not 12? (OPS2000 vs OPS2000B) I'm happy to go in with you on a manual. I actually offered the Ebay seller $10 + shipping this morning and they promptly rejected it and seemed miffed (they responded that they reject all offers beneath half their asking price). Maybe you should offer $20? (I suggest you as they seemed annoyed with me) What is wrong with yours? One of the 6.2V references is very much deceased on mine, and the power light does not turn on. I don't know about anything else as I'm too scared to probe around the insides of it without knowing what's going on. I wonder if the tube in these is unobtanium. I hope not. -Michael On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 3:06 PM, Daniel Koller kaboomdk@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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NOT OT: manual for Kepco OPS-2000?
OK, I'm officially looking for the same manual. My unit is also an OPS-2000, probably from the mid 1970's. I think I dumpster dove it from SUNY Stony Brook, which didn't really expand their physical sciences until the 70's so it's not likely to be older than that, but from the looks of it surely isn't younger.
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There is a manual on ebay now: I'm willing to split costs and do some scanning if someone here buys it. Else, does anyone else have a copy they can share? This is NOT off topic. I was thinking of posting to the Tek group regarding using this power supply as a driver to test RM503 transformers before installing them in my scope's mainframe. The output driver is a series-pass power pentode (forgot which one) and the configuration is a bit similar to what drives the R503 transformer in the scope. But the voltage might be to high and the current too low from the OPS-2000. And then finally, I checked the specs here: (see p. 4). It appears it only has a 200Hz bandwidth. That's a long way from the 20-50KHz I need to test the transformer. Still,I'd like to fix mine in case it comes in useful for another repair. Dan On Monday, November 24, 2014 12:35 PM, "Michael Noone nleahcim@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
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5103N filtercaps
Hi all,
I would like to restore a 5103N mainframe which has bad filtercaps, tons of ripple on the supply lines. I had a look today and found that, unlike the 7000 series, it is not easy to remove the power supply pcb. And desoldering the caps from the pcb, without removing it, did not work (with a pace desoldering iron). What would be the best way to remove those caps? Unfortunately it is not possible to cut (some of) the legs as the metal frame is in the way. One thought i have is to just put some good caps parallel to the bad ones and hope the old caps don't start leaking. Option two is to start cutting into the old caps, which will be a mess i assume. Option three would be to remove the powersupply pcb after all, but that seems to be a lot of work. Anyone been here before? It came with an 5L4N, hence my interest into getting it fixed :) |
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Re: Slightly OT: manual for Kepco OPS-2000?
You mean like this one?
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?? ? I forget what model my unit is, but it's very similar. ?I just moved it into the repair pile last night, so I am going to need a schematic as well. ?Looks like we can get them from Kepco. ? Dan On Monday, November 24, 2014 12:27 PM, "Michael Noone nleahcim@... [TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...> wrote:
? I have a deceased Kepco OPS-2000 on my hands. I can't find a manual for it anywhere. Kepco normally is a good source for manuals - but they want $75 for a hard copy (no soft). Anybody got a PDF handy? All I need is the schematics. 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Re: Tek 564 issues
Hi Paul,
FWIW the Service Scope series first used the new logo in the Aug 1967 issue. The 1966 catalog still shows the new announced 'scopes with the old logo. On the other hand I have several manuals (up)dating before end 1964 while the new logo appears at the cover. All my three 564s have the new logo on the CRT while the newest 'scope is from 1964. The fronts and the main transformers still have the old logo. The CRTs might have been replaced, who knows. The lowest number is 14843 10-2, whatever the meaning is. I think the logo type has been discussed here but apart from a remark by Dennis and a logo picture in the Photos section I couldn't find it. Albert ======= Interesting. Now that you got me thinking about it, I noticed one other important difference: The original CRT has a round CRT in the logo, and the replacement has a square CRT in the logo (confirming my suspicion that the replacement is newer). I didn't see those markings echoed anywhere else on the tube, but there is an embossed label toward the front of the CRT (visible only when removed). Old = '12 A 5' New = '503 B 59' Anyone know when the official logo cross-over happened? |
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Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics
Denis,
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I have tried the "hobby saw" type with some success, and I have tried a jeweler's saw as well. It all factors around the space available to work with, vs things you don't want to cut off. The stiffer backed blades stayed on-track better, but did not have any flex in them to allow to saw at a bit of an angle. The jeweler's saw did offer the best "purchase" for cutting through the tabs, but requires the other end to be hooked into the bow/holder, something that may not present itself as an option depending on the physical space you have to work with. I am not in a position where I can justify multi-jillion dollar desoldering/re-work/reflow stations to accomplish these tasks. I'm sure that these purpose-built devices may work better, however, I do not do enough of these to justify the cost. Thank you for your comments! -- Scott -- On 11/24/2014 12:23 PM, Denis xyzzx_adv@... [TekScopes] wrote:
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Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics
Tektronix has made an excellent scan of the 475 manual available but it only
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shows one side of the boards and I think the paper manual is the same. Maybe someone can provide clear photographs of both sides. I agree with the other posters about safe removal of large can capacitors. In some cases, I have cut them off at the tabs and then removed the tabs. On 24 Nov 2014 08:39:37 -0800, you wrote:
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Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics
Scott,? Think you have?done a great job describing?a method of removing large can electrolytics with minimal chance of damaging the board.?? Have you considered using a "hobby saw" blade (thinner blade with a stiffener edge (a minature miter saw)?? DenisK?
From: "Scott Singelyn scotts@... [TekScopes]" <TekScopes@...> To: TekScopes@... Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 9:11 AM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics Hi Alan, Now I am sure others on this site may chastise me for my methods, but here is how I remove these big cans from the 7000 series boards. There was enough stand-off between the cap base and the board to get this to work. If there is enough gap to work with for the 475 PS caps, this may work for you. I was never able to apply enough of, or the right amount of heat to unsolder these big caps.? I felt that I was beginning to scorch the board (it sure smelled so), so I backed off that idea and went a little radical.? I used a single ended hacksaw blade holder (like the following link), to saw off the cap's pins and tabs just above the PCB.? I was very careful to not nick the PCB, and simply sawed through all of the tabs and pins.? After the caps were hacked out, it was a simple matter to unsolder the tab and pin bits, as the giant heat-sink cap bodies were no longer there.? I was able to use a 25w pencil iron.? It took me a while to saw through everything, as I went very slow, being very careful.? I even slipped a piece of heavy card-stock paper between the blade and the PCB to help reduce the risk of damaging the board traces. I used the finest toothed blade I could find.? You will need to clean up any fillings to make sure that no shorts occur later. I also have used just the blade with the end/grip part wrapped with tape to protect my hand. I suggest you weigh in all your options, and pick whatever method works best for you. Now await the storm of posts recommending against this, but is does work if you are very careful. -- =============================== ? Scott Singelyn ? N8ZPJ@... =============================== On 11/24/2014 11:39 AM, alan_w_global@... [TekScopes] wrote:
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Re: Testing Electrolythics and ordering replacements
zif:
DIY Meter Tester Kit For Capacitance ESR Inductance Resistor NPN PNP Mosfet M168 images - LED Night Lights images DIY Meter Tester Kit For Capacitance ESR Inductan... Banggood product images: Images LED Night Lights View on www.banggood.com Preview by Yahoo |
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Re: TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics
Hi Alan,
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Now I am sure others on this site may chastise me for my methods, but here is how I remove these big cans from the 7000 series boards. There was enough stand-off between the cap base and the board to get this to work. If there is enough gap to work with for the 475 PS caps, this may work for you. I was never able to apply enough of, or the right amount of heat to unsolder these big caps. I felt that I was beginning to scorch the board (it sure smelled so), so I backed off that idea and went a little radical. I used a single ended hacksaw blade holder (like the following link), to saw off the cap's pins and tabs just above the PCB. I was very careful to not nick the PCB, and simply sawed through all of the tabs and pins. After the caps were hacked out, it was a simple matter to unsolder the tab and pin bits, as the giant heat-sink cap bodies were no longer there. I was able to use a 25w pencil iron. It took me a while to saw through everything, as I went very slow, being very careful. I even slipped a piece of heavy card-stock paper between the blade and the PCB to help reduce the risk of damaging the board traces. I used the finest toothed blade I could find. You will need to clean up any fillings to make sure that no shorts occur later. I also have used just the blade with the end/grip part wrapped with tape to protect my hand. I suggest you weigh in all your options, and pick whatever method works best for you. Now await the storm of posts recommending against this, but is does work if you are very careful. -- =============================== Scott Singelyn N8ZPJ@... =============================== On 11/24/2014 11:39 AM, alan_w_global@... [TekScopes] wrote:
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TEk 475 removing replacing big electrolythics
Hi Everyone,
I need some guidance. I have removed two large caps which were damaged, but in the process of removing them I may have caused more damage, I can't find any clear pcb layout masks in any of the pdf manuals, do they exist? there are only very unclear photo's with components. Does anyone know where I can find a layout of the reverse side of the main board, is it two sided? by taking out two capacitors i've damaged the tracks and fear that there is a link on the reverse side I have severed. I could do with some simple instructions of how to remove caps, is it worth buying a hard copy of a manual which one? Alan |
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Re: working 661
According to page 3 of the datasheet, the 26NO45 would be a 26 volt heater, normally open contacts, and 45 second delay. The absence of a "T" at the end would denote an octal base part, but I believe the delay relay in the 519 has a 9-pin miniature base, so the parts list is correct and the schematic is not. Maybe very early 519s used the octal base delay relay and they forgot to update that part of the schematic. On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 1:33 AM, Dave Casey dcasey@... [TekScopes] <TekScopes@...> wrote:
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Re: working 661
Dave Casey
The 519 manual calls out the same Tek part number but also describes it
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as a 26NO45T in the parts list. The schematic omits the "T" in the part number. Hope that helps! Dave Casey On 11/23/2014 8:30 PM, devpool0@... [TekScopes] wrote:
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Re: Testing Electrolythics and ordering replacements
On 11/18/14 9:02 AM, Ancel mosaicmerc@... [TekScopes] wrote:
I sprung for one of these on the strength of your report. I'd been watching many auctions of similar things, but most ship from China. It's inexpensive (below my what-the-heck threshhold) and can ship from US. Got here yesterday. Took me all afternoon (not an hour like some of you wizards) to build, partly because my hands are not as steady as they used to be, partly because these parts are getting smaller, and partly because the last kit I built was a Heathkit. Only one problem with the kit. The 28-pin DIP socket had lost three pins. Two were loose in the bag and I put them back, but I didn't have any like them and one pin short just won't do. I grabbed a 20-pin and an 8-pin out of my thirty-year-old stock and used them. Seems to work just fine (resistance reads a little high, somewhere around 1%). I might want it to be a voltmeter and/or a frequency counter as well, but it's just a device for passive parts. Even so, I have one item for that wish list: If I stick a crystal in, tell me its frequency. Some fine-tuning I'd like someone else to do... Use the classic triangle-wave symbol for a resistor. Curve one of the lines in the capacitor symbol and indicate appropriate polarity. I'm not sure how much I want to tighten and loosen those screws in the test fixture. I suppose it would be simple enough to wire up an outboard ZIF socket there. -- Jeff Woolsey {woolsey,jlw}@jlw.com,first.last@{gmail,hp,jlw}.com Nature abhors straight antennas, clean lenses, and empty storage. "Delete! Delete! OK!" -Dr. Bronner on disk space management Card-sorting, Joel. -Crow on solitaire |
David Hess
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