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Ryan, Please post a list of what she has available!!! Esp if close to Portland. My daughter is there and can pick up for me!!??

Thanks for the suggestions. Since parts of what hold the knobs are now gone, I'm going to try hot glue. If it is wobbly afterwards, I can reheat and try centering again until good. Good to know

Hot glue worked well for the repair I did. In case they got damaged while trying to remove the bezel: you don't need to pull out the knobs, they slide off with the bezel. See the link below for

Less permanently RTV-748 is electrical grade and soft enough that you can pry it off if need be but still thick enough to prevent air from flowing so you get a suction cup with a thin film of

Personally I recommend ultra low melt temp hot glue. It works well to stick it on, but if you need to remove it you can use a heat gun on low setting to warm up the knob and soften the adhesive to

Hi John, Are you sure they are pushed all the way on? -Evan <john@...> wrote:

I had one cracked knob on a 2465, so I pulled another to be able to use that pot, and the pulled one lost most of its spring clip that keeps it on the shaft of the pot. What methods are known to work

Yeah, I noticed as a kid that the colas etched my teeth. Even then, probably 55 years ago, I knew that wasn’t good! Jim

I'm not Amish, but maybe I could be? https://www.ecosensory.com/tek/amish-handle.jpg I re-handled this ancient kennedy toolkit 15 years ago with a sewing awl. Feels good to carry. Made like the

Also look into "gun bluing" for rustproofing. I have seen many equipment handle core/spring things with that characteristic deep blue color. Ed

AFAIK, no, though Naval Jelly is another alternative, although messier. The key with Ospho is that it converts iron oxide to iron phosphate and thus prevents further rusting. One can find it in

And with the same active ingredient (phosphoric acid) as in most colas. I've used Diet Coke as a rust remover many times. Very effective (and frightening -- but at least my digestive tract is now

Say, is that Ospho the same as Naval Jelly? ISTR that NJ was some kind of acid. Jim Ford Laguna Hills, California, USA

Also, for the rusty metal strap, there is a product named "Ospho" (a phosphoric acid solution) that changes iron oxide into iron phosphate and stops the iron oxidation process. One removes the loose

Thanks for the very creative suggestion! Cheers Tom Sent from an iThing; please forgive the typos and brevity

Hmm, there being a lot of amish around here that's a distinct possibility... I have a 5xx (can't recall the exact number) sitting out in the garage with the same issue. Someone did send me another

Is the original leather covering on the metal strap still all there? If so, consider using some blue shrink tubing. Put on one layer, shrink it, slip a second layer over it and shrink it too. If the

Most of my handle replacements have been with the older HP equipment such as that found the 200CD oscillator which is a leather type. I have had good success taking a badly deteriorated handle to the

Jon, My post is NOT about testing the rise time of a scope. Its about TDR using Tek sampling scopes. It is intended for owners of the later versions in the Tek sampling scope family which don't

So I got some 1N5711 small signal Schottky (hot carrier) diodes. Getting to CR515 in the TG501 is tricky, first you need to remove the metal shield on the top of the PCB, which is held in place by