Forgive me jumping into a post but the question is related and I know Keith
so he won't mind.... (much)....
When choosing a sub for the particular cap referenced here...
Is a standard electrolytic (by standard electrolytic I mean a 'good' 105C,
etc.) an ok sub or must one go with a wet tantalum?
Thanks in advance for answering
Rob aka Keith * smile *
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-----Original Message-----
From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On Behalf
Of Brad Thompson
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 7:14 PM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Adjusting a 7A13, and a few other questions
On 7/23/2012 6:05 PM, keithostertag wrote:
I am just now getting around to looking at my 7A13, bought on eBay
awhile back. I've never used a differential amp. Serial # B236701.
<snip>
I thought I'd show you a cap I found which has visible leaking (C505):
Hello, Keith and the group--
That's a so-called "wet slug" tantalum capacitor. Its clear outer jacket is
yellowed, likely due to overheating.
IIRC, the electrolyte in the wet-slug capacitors is sulfuric acid, so when
you remove the failed capacitor, I'd recommend swabbing the corroded area
with a weak baking-soda solution to neutralize any remaining acid, followed
by swabbing with distilled water to remove any chemical residues.
Inspect for corrosion damage to all PC-board traces in the area and repair
as necessary.
Wet-slug caps don't like to operate with a reverse bias and are likely to
fail prematurely, so check the circuitry for upstream component failures
that might have back-biased the capacitor.
73--
Brad AA1IP
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