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Re: Notes about washing Tektronix Oscillosopes


 

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1. At first I will use compressed Air to remove all what I can blow away.
2. Remove all covers, also the small like HV area.
3. remove all tubes, marked where they was plugged in, no hange to another socket place, they must go back in the same.
4. cleaning the tubes carefully, with window cleaner, except the stamp, this only dry. Polish pins if not golden.
5. Cleaning Chassis parts wet, with window cleaner, with distilled water what I get from the aircon.
For something I use tooth brush, cuttet and not cuttet.
6. Cleaning all electronic parts peace by peace, mostly with window cleaner. Oftenly in use are cleaning Sticks for human ears to go between them and on the ground.
A lot of fabric, some ear cleaners, and tooth brushes, time by time again air pressure, it will go on peace by peace.
I don`t like to make wet paper covered caps, and open coils of the transformers.

To clean a typical Tek to a very fine instrument is the work of one complete day. Including washing covers and knobs in the dish washer machine.

picture: my 533A, upstair is "to do", downstair is "done".

I have used:
fabric peaces, ear cleaning sticks, tooth brushes, compressed air.
Cleaners: Window Cleaner (mostly),house cleaner (sometimes, special front and outside), ethyl alcohol for marker pen of pre owners, distilled water from the aircon.

Absolutely all will be cleaned, including all wires, ceramic strips, resistors, caps, tubes, all mechaical parts, peace by peace by peace.
After some hours the enjoy will come to see a clean and glossy polished old Tek Scope.

greetings
Martin


To: TekScopes@...
CC: reed714@...
From: reed714@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 20:38:30 -0700
Subject: [TekScopes] Notes about washing Tektronix Oscillosopes

?
I want to pass on to the forum members the procedures Stan Griffiths has
developed
for washing, cleaning and drying scopes. One salient point, make sure
the water you
use in these procedures is soft. Hard water has been proven to leave a
slightly conductive
residue inside transformers that, over time, causes conductive paths and
eventual failure.

To control the temperature in my "oven", I use a hot water heater
thermostat
purchased at a plumbing supply house. This is used to cycle, on and off, a
plug strip with hot plates plugged into it. The thermostat can be set to
temperatures in the 110-130 degree area which I think is safe for all parts
in most scopes. Before washing remove the CRT and any cardboard insulators
placed over filter cap cans. Remove the mesh air filter before cleaning.

My wash procedure is something like this:

1. Wet the scope down with luke-warm water. Avoid spraying water directly
into the transformer(s) or fan motor.
2. Spray the entire scope with the 10:1 diluted Simple Green so it can
soak
and get the dirt softened.
3. Scrub all flat parts of the scope with a soft plastic bristle brush.
Use some undiluted Simple Green in the really dirty areas. A tooth brush
or long handled bottle brush helps get into tight areas.
4. Scrub all the front panel knobs with a tooth brush and concentrated
Simple Green.
5. Spray the entire scope again with the 10:1 Simple Green solution and
scrub some more in the really dirty areas.
6. Rinse with LOTS of luke-warm water until you see no more soap bubbles
coming off the scope.
7. Change to an air-only spray gun and blow as much of the water off of
the
scope as you can.
8. Put the scope in your "oven" for about 48 hours at about 120 degrees F.

I have plans to rip the guts out of an old 220 V electric clothes drier
and place them inside an
equally old refrigerator with holes cut to allow air to circulate. The
drier temperature control
could probably be used to control the heat and the drier fan should
supply sufficient air flow
to completely dry the scope in the prescribed time or less.

Forum members are invited to start a thread on this topic.

Reed Dickinson

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