The best tool i have found is this one:
<>
I would not want to work without it any more.
When we got it, the first thing we tried it on was the rear connector of a
dead CDROM drive (the 40 pin IDE plus power puls audio plus jumpers all in
one molded connector). After sucking the solder from all the joints, the
connector dropped right out and was as good as new, the board too. It is a
little harder when the holes are a too small, but still works OK.
If you do any amount of throughhole de-soldering, you really want this tool.
I actually prefer to take parts from used boards instead of new ones now,
because de-soldering is easier and faster than bending and cutting the
leads. Sadly it is a little too expensive for the occassional use at home.
I have seen a chinese copy on ebay for roughly 100USD, but i do not know how
well it works. There were some negative comments about rusting tips in the
feedback so i did not get one.
ST
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On Mon, Sep 22, 2008 at 3:40 PM, Paul Kraemer <elespe@...> wrote:
A fellow from plant engineering at an auto plant told me how they repaired
boards at the plant, where down time is really expensive. They cut the ic
from the leads, remove the leads one at a time and then put in a new ic.
It is fast and doesn't damage the board. Of course there isn't any old chip
left.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Phillips
To: tekscopes@...
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 3:02 AM
Subject: [TekScopes] unsoldering tricks
From Tim P (UK)
further to the discussion on removing components
from boards, I remember Weller produced a device
for de-soldering ICs which was like a metal IC socket
on a soldering iron, which went over all 16 pins.
I think it's main problem was that the molten solder
would then short out adjacent pads, needing careful
clean-up.
Tim
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