Hi,
With invalid nvram all kinds of 7000, 8000 etc. errors can be expected.
Calibration may or may not clear these, because normally calibration builds
on the old constants. The best is to force a cold start (from the cal or
special(?) menu) this will zero out the nvram and force calibration from a
clean state. It may need several runs of calibration to succeed and expect
the first attempt to take a long time. Definitely look into the service
manual for the process, especially if you need or want to do internal
calibration. I'm not sure about the 2432a, but it does have some pots
inside to set up the CCD clock (not as complicated as in the 2440 though).
And probably it is a good idea to properly do the screen geometry setup too
if you open up the device anyway.
As for the X1, X2 caps, yes, replace them. If they haven't yet blown up on
you, they will. Or maybe, if you see burned up resistors, they have already
blown. Do the same with the line filter built into the power connector.
Those Schaffer filters are prone to very smokey and stinky demise.
Good idea on the PSU cap check, they are also known to fail. For PSU
removal, check the service manual, there are a few obscure screws here and
there that need to be removed first. I believe there is one screw from the
side too.
Szabolcs
Gerdy via groups.io <gerdy_maelbrancke@...> ezt ¨ªrta
(id?pont: 2025. m¨¢j. 7., Sze, 21:18):
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Update: my 2432A shows fault codes 7000 (CCD), 8000 (PA), 9000 (Triggs).
The 8000 code today joined the 7000 & 9000 codes, not sure where this
sudenly comes from.
But NO 6000 code (CKSUM-NVRAM).
Tried Calibration but it does not solve anything.
As a test I replaced the 'Keeper' Li battery (3.5V, but measures 3.6V) by
2 AA batteries (measures 3,2V).
I get another additional code now: 4000 (FPP), drilling deeper it says the
battery voltage low is the problem. Does this mean the Backup battery
voltage is very critical?
Again Calibration does not solve it.
Putting back the original Li battery in makes the 4000 code disappear
again.
At least that is consistent.
I wanted to order a new Li battery but in Europe it is not obtainable
(shipping limited to US) so what now?
I have the 2 SRAM chips (the ones that are supplied by the Li batterty) on
order but I read in the service manual that the SRAM chips are tested on
startup and I have no fault codes for that. Can I conclude safely these are
OK then?
I am a bit stuck now:
-the battery measures 3.6V, which is above the 3,5V spec. No indications
of battery voltage too high or too low. Will replacing the battery solve my
problem?
-the SRAM chips are tested on startup (walking'1' and walking '0' test). I
have 2 SRAM chips on order but will replace these solve my problem?
I also have the problem with the bulged X1 (or X2?) caps and a power
resistor that has a brownish colour, all this in the input mains filter.
Can this really be my problem?
I will definitely replace those and also measure the ESR and the value of
the PS elco's (they all look fine by the way) but so far to my frustration
I was unable to get the PS board out of the scope, I am looking at the
board but can't find how to remove it. Any suggestions?
My scope is definitely old, from 1990, but has only 4000 working hours, so
not much.
