I agree that it¡¯s more than a small amount of work to move the pin 6 wire to pin 9, but the only reason the wire is thick is for mechanical convenience during assembly. Use any wire you want, to bridge and bypass the nines, and clip out the wire segments on either side of the sixes. I think I did this on my own 106 years ago, to get access to more spares. And certainly for debug purposes it¡¯s easier to go back to a known-working tube set.
Dave Wise From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Albert Otten via groups.io Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2022 1:05 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Type 106 Saga (Again) On Thu, Mar 3, 2022 at 05:49 PM, Stephen wrote: Stephen, you probably mean the Amplitude knob. The fact that the Amplitude knob still does something in the Fast Rise mode corresponds to what previously has been discussed by you and Dave. You wrote[Albert:]I don¡¯t think so, but I¡¯ll check again later. Meaning that I see that both sides (B side) are always connected no matter the position of the switch.This is like the switch remains always in the position as shown in the schematic, that is in the High Ampl position. Today you wrote However, what greatly confuses me is that the unit was perfectly working before WITH pin 9 entirely disconnected, and pin 6 connected.Actually each pin 9 is connected to GND via a resistor while (with EL84s) all pins 6 are connected and decoupled to GND but otherwise floating (if not connected internally to an electrode). That's why I brought this point up again. You don't know to which DC value the pins 6 drift when loaded by a (10 M input?) DMM. But I will do the modification before I do anything else.It's a nasty job to "move" the pin 6 connection to pin 9 for each tube. The pins 6 wire is rather thick, probably with reason. Pins 9 are difficult to access. For the moment I would postpone the modification and use the "original" set of EL84 tubes that worked previously. Albert |