Jeff-
what i used and found worked best is the old 100/140W weller solder gun, actual temp? I do not know , in and out fast. I am sure one of the chisel tips would also work if they have enough mass. the ones available at work were too low temp for the job and not enough heat quick transfer. So...I ended up bringing my own tools from my shop.
a little extra rosin also helps , but start with clean leads and surfaces ( scotch brite pad works great here) .
on the caps note the outside foil side and try and match locations. the mylars may or may not have an outside foil. orange drops do sometimes not marked.
test/verify with a scope and your hand...
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð
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On 7/19/21 9:13 PM, Jeff Dutky wrote:
¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð and Harvey,
The scope still has it's emergency spool of silver solder, apparently unused, but I also bought three 0.35 oz coils of Kester 62/36/2 silver solder when I was working on the 475 or 475A HV sections a few months ago.
When you say "high heat" ¸é±ð²Ô¨¦±ð, what temperature are we talking about? I already replaced one blown resistor in the LV section, and I used my old Weller iron (the kind with the magnetic tips that you have to change to select the temperature). It was not easy to do, but I think some of that was because I did not clean the area very well before applying the heat. I also have a surface mount rework station with a soldering iron attached, and it allows me to adjust the temperature with a dial. What temperature should I be using on the ceramic strips?
I'm was already planning to test all the electrolytic cans, so testing the axial leaded caps is only a little more work. I'm glad that mylar caps will do as replacements, as I already happen to have a good supply of those that I have been using on some EICO instruments.
-- Jeff Dutky
