Loosen the screws that hold the rear panel on and you should be able to withdraw the power supply.
Regards
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8/5/2019 3:26 PM, n4buq wrote: Tapped lightly on the shaft, the collet released, and the impeller came right off. The collet is indeed broken. That's quite fragile (as stated) as I don't recall putting very much torque on that shaft at all.
Now that I have the impeller off, though, I still cannot lift the LVPS out because the motor shaft protrudes through the hole in the rear plate. Does that shaft normally stick out that far? If not, then maybe I displaced the shaft in this process.
If the shaft does normally stick out that far, then how does one extract the power supply? The manual states it should just lift out but it's a pretty tight fit and I can't see where I can tilt it far enough to let the shaft clear the frame.
Stumped again...
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Harris" <cfharris@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 11:00:42 AM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 LVPS Issues
It is a plastic collet, in a plastic taper. The two practically weld together after being under tension for many, many years.
The screw is molded into the plastic collet, and turning the screw relative to the impeller will break the screw free of the collet, such that it will never be able to pull the collet tight again.
Don't turn the screw!
Move the nut to the end of the screw, and tap it with a light hammer. That hit will push the collet out of the taper, and it will release. Don't pull up on the impeller when you tap the screw, just let it hammer against the motor's endplay washer. You aren't hitting it hard enough to do any damage....Right???
Once you have the collet off of the shaft, you should send a drop of light machine oil running down the shaft, and into the bearing.
And, on the other end, use your desoldering station, and slurp the solder from the center hole of the circuit board (inline with the shaft), and oil that end too. Just a single drop on each side.
-Chuck Harris
n4buq wrote:
Searching for Tektronix "impeller" vs. "fan", I finally found a picture of the collet:
That makes sense to me now. Still unsure how turning the screw damages the collet (presuming the fingers stick to the tapered ID of the impeller and a twisting motion breaks them) but I'm guessing I'll find out soon enough.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <n4buq@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 9:12:01 AM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 LVPS Issues
Okay, Chuck. I presumed it was a collet but wasn't sure how to release it. Unfortunately, I did turn the screw some in a CCW direction and then back again so it sounds like I may have damaged the collet. Ugh! Too tempting and the manual doesn't give any caveats regarding that (only states not to remove the nut which I can't really see what that would hurt either but, perhaps, because it might bind on the slotted burrs and cause the screw to turn). If I can get the impeller off, I'll see what kind of damage I may have caused. The impellers are still available but I'm guessing the collet isn't.
Thanks again, Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Harris" <cfharris@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 8:25:19 AM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 LVPS Issues
It is easy:
Put a screwdriver in the slot of the screw, and use a wrench to turn the nut against the screw (DON't LET THE SCREW TURN!!!)
Back off the nut until it is flush with the slot, and give the nut a light tap with a hammer. It will move into the squirrel cage a little bit, and then the squirrel cage can be pulled off.
If you let the screw turn relative to the squirrel cage, it will destroy the delicate plastic collet... you don't want to do that!
-Chuck Harris
n4buq wrote:
Got everything removed except the fan. Any hints/tricks to getting that off? Loosened the nut but the fan blade won't budge and I don't want to pull any harder unless it is recommended. I have a feeling that's some kind of collet and perhaps pressure on the slotted screw would release it but just don't know.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry" <n4buq@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2019 9:30:54 PM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 LVPS Issues
And there, on page 6-25, is the complete process spelled out very neatly. Just didn't expect that.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "n4buq" <n4buq@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2019 9:03:44 PM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 LVPS Issues
I didn't realize the SM would go into detail on board removal. I will read up on it there.
Thanks for the tip on the incorrect silkscreen too.
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gardner" <tggzzz@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2019 7:10:03 PM Subject: Re: [TekScopes] 2445 LVPS Issues
The service manual is quite specific on how to remove the various boards. It isn't difficult, if follow instructions.
The manual is available at the usual places, e.g. tekwiki.
Be aware that on some of the 24x5* series the manual and silk screen show two caps swapped. So when recapping, remove and replace a single capacitor before moving on to the next; don't remove them all and then start replacing them.
On 04/08/19 00:13, n4buq wrote:
I was using my 2445 today when I heard a strange sort of thump noise coming from inside the scope after which I started smelling a burning odor. I had a few pieces of gear powered up at the time but quickly could tell the smell was coming from the 2445.
I took off the case and top cover and pretty sure the smell is coming from the LVPS board(s) but am a bit stumped at how to get those two boards out. I'm pretty sure the top ribbon cable needs to come off but don't quite see how to get the large plastic cover off of the area where the main filter caps are.
Looking at some of the smaller caps, they appear to be leaning due to (I'm guessing) bulging at the circuit board end but not sure exactly what overheated (or, possibly, made that thumping noise).
Are there instructions somewhere that outline how to remove those boards? If not, could someone provide a couple of hints to get me started?
Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ
|