The cleaner will evaporate.? Its job is complete, which is to remove the dirt or dissolve the oxides.? The residue remains to fester and cause problems again, but for the most part is well out of the way and won't be a problem for a long time.
It's true that there is nothing as good as getting in there and doing what needs doing, but sometimes it's not practical and other methods suffice.? In fact, sometimes no additive is required, as the oxides and/or dirt will spread around with exercise of the control.? I have repaired many pots by simply working them many times, no chemical needed.? Now and then they need a repeat but they just need to be used more.
With a radio volume control, it gets used plenty so the problems may be other than disuse.? With an astigmatism control on an oscilloscope,? disuse is more common.
Bob
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On Wednesday, April 17, 2019, 9:43:01 AM PDT, tom jobe <tomjobe@...> wrote:
This has been a very interesting thread on how to clean potentiometers,
but there has been no mention of what happens after you get the
cleaner/lubrication into the potentiometer.
Do you leave the liquids in there, and what about the residue that
caused your problem to start with?
Thank you for any comments you might have!
tom jobe...
On 4/16/2019 9:44 PM, Frank DuVal via Groups.Io wrote:
I think GC Electronics made them for their contact cleaner. Long
cylinder that threaded onto the mounting nut, maybe 5 inches long and
necked down to a small diameter that fit the aerosol nozzle of the
contact cleaner.
Check electronics magazines of the 1950s.
I see the StewMac cap advertised. Only good for short shaft pots.
Frank DuVal
On 4/16/2019 6:26 PM, John Kolb wrote:
I remember seeing in the distant past, a catalog picture of a
pot/contact cleaner which threaded onto the pot threaded bushing. I
guess you would then put in the cleaner/lube, and push a plunger to
force the cleaner into the pot.
John
